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Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)


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31 minutes ago, hayfield said:

Wayne

 

Looking very good, certainly 3D printing is coming into its own, never thought quite as quickly, one thing that I am curious is how are the common crossings attached to the rails ?

There are pins in the moulding that locate into holes in the sleepers (if they are the same as in n gauge)

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3 minutes ago, dhjgreen said:

There are pins in the moulding that locate into holes in the sleepers (if they are the same as in n gauge)

 

Thanks but you have described the common crossings to the timbers not the rails. Certainly at the heal end it is one solid casting !! so how do the rails attach to the common crossing ?

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6 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

Thanks but you have described the common crossings to the timbers not the rails. Certainly at the heal end it is one solid casting !! so how do the rails attach to the common crossing ?

Are they meant to?
I thought it would be similar to the Peco Unifrog.

Edited by Free At Last
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7 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

Thanks but you have described the common crossings to the timbers not the rails. Certainly at the heal end it is one solid casting !! so how do the rails attach to the common crossing ?

Sorry, there are gaps to the rails around the crossing to enable polarity switching.

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4 minutes ago, Wayne Kinney said:

Yes, David has it :)

 

wiring.jpg

 

Wayne

 

Thanks, I am used to the rails being aligned with each other with functional plastic or brass fishplates, I see this can be done with the end nearest the heal and I guess whilst not prototypical these fishplates could be adapted to fit

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17 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

Wayne

 

Thanks, I am used to the rails being aligned with each other with functional plastic or brass fishplates, I see this can be done with the end nearest the heal and I guess whilst not prototypical these fishplates could be adapted to fit

Hi John,

 

I don't think they would fit the casting, as there is only a cosmetic rail 'web' on one side.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Wayne Kinney said:

Hi John,

 

I don't think they would fit the casting, as there is only a cosmetic rail 'web' on one side.

 

 

 

Wayne I accept this, if I use the functional brass or plastic (H section) fishplates, if I cut off 1 of the quarters it will fit the outside of the casting (heal end) and both sides of the joining rail. The toe end of the casting should accept these fishplates (C&L or Exactoscale) 

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28 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

Wayne I accept this, if I use the functional brass or plastic (H section) fishplates, if I cut off 1 of the quarters it will fit the outside of the casting (heal end) and both sides of the joining rail. The toe end of the casting should accept these fishplates (C&L or Exactoscale) 

 

Hi John,

 

There is no prototype fishplate at those positions. It would look a bit odd. It would be better to add dummy fishplates to the rail side at the correct positions.

 

For the physical rail attachment to the crossing casting, a thin fill of epoxy adhesive to provide the electrical isolation is probably the best option. It can be profiled to the rail section once set.

 

The alternative would be to solder a short piece of rail to the crossing casting, and make a normal insulated joint with the locking fishplates at the usual positions marked on the templates.

 

We will wait to see what Wayne suggests in his kit instructions.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

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Thanks Keith,

 

As it's nearing closer to Xmas, it's a dodgy time :lol: LOL

 

I was hoping to get the EM Gauge kit sent to Patrick before Xmas. As it is, I've had to tweak many things dimensionally to keep within specified tolerances. Fighting against machine tolerances, printer resolution and material shrinkage, well, it's all just trial and error but takes a little time and revisions! I wont send anything until I'm happy.

 

In the mean time, the 3mm Scale Society have also shown interest. I am very grateful for the various 'scale societies' showing interest, giving support and boasting my drive and confidence!

 

But to answer your question, I am still on 'track' for a Jan/Feb release... :)

 

Thanks again to everyone for your support!

 

 

Regards,

Wayne.

 

Edited by Wayne Kinney
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23 minutes ago, Wayne Kinney said:

Thanks Keith,

 

As it's nearing closer to Xmas, it's a dodgy time :lol: LOL

 

I was hoping to get the EM Gauge kit sent to Patrick before Xmas. As it is, I've had to tweak many things dimensionally to keep within specified tolerances. Fighting against machine tolerances, printer resolution and material shrinkage, well, it's all just trial and error but takes a little time and revisions! I wont send anything until I'm happy.

 

In the mean time, the 3mm Scale Society have also shown interest. I am very grateful for the various 'scale societies' showing interest, giving support and boasting my drive and confidence!

 

But to answer you question, I am still on 'track' for a Jan/Feb release... :)

 

Thanks again to everyone for your support!

 

 

Regards,

Wayne.

 

Don't be rushed by the enthusiasts..be happy before you launch!

Chris

Edited by Gilbert
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5 minutes ago, KeithHC said:

Thanks Wayne, so along with 3mm how about 0-14. BTW what do you model just as a matter of interest.

 

Keith

Thanks Keith,

 

I'm an N Gauge modeller at heart, but recent developments are pushing me towards 4mm scale :)

Edited by Wayne Kinney
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Simple answer is that no one really knows because it's not been around that long. UV exposure is perhaps a concern. Wouldn't stop me though, I can't imagine the railway crumbling in 5 years time.

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11 hours ago, polybear said:

Is there any information on the stability/life expectancy of the plastic used in 3d printing over time?  Does it compare with that used by the likes of Peco etc.?

An interesting question. One has to wonder about resin prints as they need UV exposure how long they would last. I have just started 3D printing and designing. At times I feel like an infant school child with what I am achieving but it will get better.....I am using PLA which is meant to be bio-degradable! However it is only bio-degradable in a chemical works. There is a YouTube video showing some PLA that has been left buried in a garden for a year and it seams ok. As they say only time will tell.

 

Keith

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I would have thought the question of life expectancy, would be known to, "FinetraX", as they have been manufacturing for many years, in N gauge. In addition the supplier of the plastic for printing will probably, also have a predicted or actual life expectancy.
Do people always ask this question, as I don't remember anyone asking the life expectancy of; Peco, Hornby, Bachmann, Dapol, Accurascale or any other of the myriads of suppliers. 

Indeed, does anyone ask how long their house is going to stand or their car going to last.

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