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Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)


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17 minutes ago, unravelled said:

That's much better, but I still have a slight discrepancy (<0.5mm) in the length. I will try again from scratch over the weekend. The only difference I can see is my smallest radius is 1294mm, slightly larger than that in your screenshot. It's nothing I'm bothered about at the moment, your pdf template will be more than good enough for my planning. But this has given me the incentive to put some more effort into learning Templot.

 

Thanks

 

Dave

Best of luck. I failed to learn enough to use it to anywhere near what it's capable of and I've had it since the days when you had to pay for it.

Old dogs, new tricks.

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18 minutes ago, unravelled said:

That's much better, but I still have a slight discrepancy (<0.5mm) in the length. I will try again from scratch over the weekend. The only difference I can see is my smallest radius is 1294mm, slightly larger than that in your screenshot. It's nothing I'm bothered about at the moment, your pdf template will be more than good enough for my planning. But this has given me the incentive to put some more effort into learning Templot.

 

Hi Dave,

 

1294mm is correct:

 

finetrax_00_centres.png

 

The figure in my previous screenshot was before I adjusted the entry straight.

 

The Templot drawing exactly matches Wayne's PDF and the dimension shown on it. If you have a slight discrepancy it is likely yo be in resin shrinkage, and you would see the same on Wayne's PDF. Either that, or your printer is not totally accurate -- are the grid squares exactly 50mm intervals?

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

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Thanks for clearing that up. I have found where the discrepancy occurs. Checking with the grid, your downloaded pdf has printed a whisker larger than  the Templot image I created. I'm not sure which is right, time to calibrate my printer and find an accurate ruler.

 

Thanks again

 

Dave

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45 minutes ago, bude_branch said:

Could some kind soul please confirm the radius and crossing angle of the new B7 point kit for me?

 

I'm sure it's been mentioned here somewhere, I just can't seem to find it.

 

Hi Nigel,

 

Crossing angle is 1:7

 

00 radius: 1294mm (51")

 

EM radius: 1491mm (59")

 

Martin.

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1 hour ago, bude_branch said:

Could some kind soul please confirm the radius and crossing angle of the new B7 point kit for me?

 

I'm sure it's been mentioned here somewhere, I just can't seem to find it.

Further to what Martin said, the crossing angle is 8°10'16" (8 degrees, 10 minutes, 16 seconds).

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Does no news mean good news?

I've already ripped up a good section of layout in the anticipation of 1:7 diamonds. Don't do a PECO bullhead on me.:jester:

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I would imagine Wayne may be a bit busy at the moment. I believe he has slips and diamonds in planning and previously he has said late summer around August. Also he has the 00sf B7 in line next. And after all that there is a smaller point as well again in the three different gauges with matching diamonds. It’s a lot to look forward too.

 

i should imagine he is taking a well earned break-in his caravan this weekend so that he can crack on in the weeks to come.

 

Keith

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1 hour ago, KeithHC said:

I would imagine Wayne may be a bit busy at the moment. I believe he has slips and diamonds in planning and previously he has said late summer around August. Also he has the 00sf B7 in line next. And after all that there is a smaller point as well again in the three different gauges with matching diamonds. It’s a lot to look forward too.

 

i should imagine he is taking a well earned break-in his caravan this weekend so that he can crack on in the weeks to come.

 

Keith

Aye! I’m just keeping the ball rolling.

Yes, Wayne has a lot of work on his hands and, yes, he deserves a break. The Imogey was intended to suggest that my tongue was firmly in my cheek. I was attempting to keep the product in the public eye and encourage success.

It seems my intentions were not clear.

How do you spell imogey? 

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Hi Frank,

 

Many thanks for sharing!

 

Seems to be running nice a smoothly through that formation, very nice track laying!

 

You mention height difference, was that just with the ply sleepers, not the Peco track, right?

 

Also, have you polished and blackened the cast crossing frog as per the instruction? This really improve it's appearance.

 

All really nice :)

 

Edited by Wayne Kinney
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13 minutes ago, Wayne Kinney said:

Hi Frank,

 

Many thanks for sharing!

 

Seems to be running nice a smoothly through that formation, very nice track laying!

 

You mention height difference, was that just with the ply sleepers, not the Peco track, right?

 

Also, have you polished and blackened the cast crossing frog as per the instruction? This really improve it's appearance.

 

All really nice :)

 

Hi Wayne,

There was a definite difference between the plywood sleeper based track and the points.  Probably about 0.2mm.  I overcame this by gluing some thin strips of plastic card under the last three sleepers on the point bases to bring them up to the same height as the crossing.  I had thought there was a similar difference between the points and the EMGS track with the Peco track being the lower.  I also packed the Peco track in the same way therefore.  Perhaps this was incorrect but everything seems to align okay.  More fun was getting the plain track to align vertically with the points which had previously been vertically aligned to the crossing.  In these circumstances I terminated the plain track with a few ply sleepers and C&L chairs so that the transition was in the plain track well before the rail joint. Fun and Games......

 

Given this was a 'fun' project to produce a test track, I neither stained the ply sleepers or blackened the cast frog although the track tops of the frog were indeed polished with fine grit wet and dry.  I'll probably be taking this test track to exhibitions when I am next invited to demonstrate (usually loco building) so I thought it best to leave the track in its original state so that visitors can see it in its intermediate stage prior to staining and ballasting.

 

Congratulations on an excellent product Wayne.  If I'd been patient I could have saved myself the effort of building the crossing and waited for you to produce yours instead, but as I had all the materials I needed in my spares box I thought I'd crack on with building my own. 

 

I'll be interested to see how your crossing sleepers knit in with your point sleepers? It was all a bit of a bodge on my test track and probably doesn't adhere to prototype practice.

 

Regards,

 

Frank

 

 

 

     

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5 hours ago, Chuffer Davies said:

I'll probably be taking this test track to exhibitions when I am next invited to demonstrate (usually loco building) so I thought it best to leave the track in its original state so that visitors can see it in its intermediate stage prior to staining and ballasting.

How about showing the three points at different stages of finishing?

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Hi Guys,

 

Not 00 or EM but thought it might be interesting.

 

Master patterns for both 2mm Finescale and 3mm Finescale crossing frogs, ready to make moulds from. Pictured next to an EM Gauge crossing frog for size comparision. The 2FS one is a 1in7, the 3mm one 1in6.

 

The 2FS one is tiny, I'm not even sure if it's castable but certainly going to try! :)

 

 

DSC05411.jpgDSC05414.jpg.4129e7fcb3be37faca7a59db8e5d889f.jpg

DSC05416.jpg

DSC05419.jpg

Edited by Wayne Kinney
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32 minutes ago, Wayne Kinney said:

Hi Guys,

 

Not 00 or EM but thought it might be interesting.

 

Master patterns for both 2mm Finescale and 3mm Finescale crossing frogs, ready to make moulds from. Pictured next to an EM Gauge crossing frog for size comparision. The 2FS one is a 1in7, the 3mm one 1in6.

 

The 2FS one is tiny, I'm not even sure if it's castable but certainly going to try! :)

 

 

DSC05411.jpgDSC05414.jpg.4129e7fcb3be37faca7a59db8e5d889f.jpg

DSC05416.jpg

DSC05419.jpg

I’m fairly sure the 2mm finescale association already produce cast crossings for the kits they already supply to members.

I have kits for a long planned 2mm layout that will probably never come to fruition.

2mm finescale easitrac system have components that peg in place. 
Assuming you are planning to sell to 2mm finescale modellers (obvs), and assuming these modellers are association members, and also assuming they buy from the association, there may not be much of a market. Unless you are selling to the association, as you do to the EMGS.
 

will it be possible to put a slight curve into your 00 gauge diamonds or does the geometry make that impossible?

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9 minutes ago, RBAGE said:

I’m fairly sure the 2mm finescale association already produce cast crossings for the kits they already supply to members.

 

The 2mm Scale Association crossings are milled from nickel silver (including the relief in the side of the rail to represent the web of BH rail) and have a tapped hole that allows them to be screwed down to the turmout base.

 

Andy

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20 minutes ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

The 2mm Scale Association crossings are milled from nickel silver (including the relief in the side of the rail to represent the web of BH rail) and have a tapped hole that allows them to be screwed down to the turmout base.

 

Andy

Thanks Andy,

I would have checked before putting my foot in my mouth but I’m not at home.

Bob

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1 hour ago, martin_wynne said:

Hi Wayne,

 

Excellent.

 

Apart from:

wayne_crossing_infill.jpg.06a563669e818742981ad17851fe642a.jpg

The red bit should be daylight. I may have mentioned this before. :)

 

Ships and buckets of tar come to mind.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Hi Martin,

 

Thanks. Aware of it and again these are the first revisions of the castings. Removing that metal does make it more fragile and prone to either warping or bending.

 

  

1 hour ago, RBAGE said:

I’m fairly sure the 2mm finescale association already produce cast crossings for the kits they already supply to members.

I have kits for a long planned 2mm layout that will probably never come to fruition.

2mm finescale easitrac system have components that peg in place. 
Assuming you are planning to sell to 2mm finescale modellers (obvs), and assuming these modellers are association members, and also assuming they buy from the association, there may not be much of a market. Unless you are selling to the association, as you do to the EMGS.
 

will it be possible to put a slight curve into your 00 gauge diamonds or does the geometry make that impossible?

 

All I will say is I'm working with the 2mmSA on this. I am trying my best to provide them with the best possible product, with daylight through the cast crossing rails (including the web relief in the side of the rail to represent the web of BH rail, as I've always done on my N Gauge kits).

They have shown very positive interest. I really enjoy working with the societies, and bouncing design ideas off each other.

Edited by Wayne Kinney
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12 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

Hi Wayne,

 

Excellent.

 

Apart from:

wayne_crossing_infill.jpg.06a563669e818742981ad17851fe642a.jpg

The red bit should be daylight. I may have mentioned this before. :)

 

Ships and buckets of tar come to mind.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

Wouldn't it be possible to saw the piece out of the final product if it was a problem? The kits seem to save plenty of time so a couple of minutes added isn't critical, then you get the best of both worlds!

 

Mike.

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