RMweb Premium SteveCornford Posted June 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2021 Hi Wayne, When do you expect to release the OO-SF version into the wild? Steve 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted June 12, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 12, 2021 Good to see a 3mm version knocking on the door. thanks for doing the hard work. Still praying to the gods of track builders that you can find a spot for a 21mm gauge 4mm turnout at some point to encourage some friends of mine. Take care and hope you can enjoy the sun shine of the last few days. Robert 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Kinney Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 3 hours ago, SteveCornford said: Hi Wayne, When do you expect to release the OO-SF version into the wild? Steve Hi Steve, I've push it back working on 3mm and 2mm Finescale. Most likely end of the month for the 00-SF B7, thanks. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Kinney Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 (edited) Hi Guys, Who would like to test a 00-SF B7 kit this weekend? Hands up! I would need a PM with your address before 4pm today so I can post it for this weekend Edited June 24, 2021 by Wayne Kinney Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 On 08/06/2021 at 17:13, martin_wynne said: The red bit should be daylight. I may have mentioned this before. I've used the red bit - in the 4mm EM kit - to drill a 0.5mm hole through to solder the dropper wire up into. It's certainly secure in there. More 'Belt and Braces' than B & T's. Excellent kits. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Kinney Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 3 hours ago, Wayne Kinney said: Hi Guys, Who would like to test a 00-SF B7 kit this weekend? Hands up! I would need a PM with your address so I can post it for this weekend I've still got one spot left and I am going to the post office in 30 minutes if one of you also wants to get on board? Time is ticking... PM me your address! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Kinney Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 Thanks for all your responses, guys! All slots now filled. Expect to see some 00-SF kit build photos and reviews up this weekend! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted June 24, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 24, 2021 1 hour ago, Wayne Kinney said: Thanks for all your responses, guys! All slots now filled. Expect to see some 00-SF kit build photos and reviews up this weekend! , or some FinetraX kits on eBay! Mike. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Kinney Posted June 24, 2021 Share Posted June 24, 2021 2 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said: , or some FinetraX kits on eBay! Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NFWEM57 Posted June 24, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 24, 2021 6 hours ago, Wayne Kinney said: Thanks for all your responses, guys! All slots now filled. Expect to see some 00-SF kit build photos and reviews up this weekend! Well done Wayne, good effort..! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithHC Posted June 25, 2021 Share Posted June 25, 2021 Everything happens whilst I was away I could have saved you the post as I was in Sussex……… Keith 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post 08221 Posted June 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted June 26, 2021 (edited) I was one of those lucky enough to be selected to test build one of the FinetraX OO-SF point kits. Postie knocked on my door and proffered me a substantial cardboard box containing the kit, well wrapped in bubble wrap to protect it. The kits is professionally presented in its packaging. The kit I received was the B7 left hand standard turnout kit, OO-SF with code 75 Bullhead rail. The components of the kit are below, comprising 1 x turnout base, 1 x cast V crossing, sufficient code 75 Bullhead rail including 2 switch blades which are pre-formed and a tie bar. The first thing I did was to solder a wire to the bottom of the V crossing, then I glued the V crossing into its aligning holes in the sleeper base. Next, I cut the 2 check rails to length and slid them into position on the sleeper base. Next I cut the 2 rails to length to fit against the V crossing and slid them into place, taking care to leave a small gap between each rail and the V crossing. The next step was to attach one of the switch blades into its slot in the tie bar. The switch blade was them marked off where it meets the V crossing, cut to length and slipped into place - again taking care to leave a small gap. This process was repeated with the second switch blade. Finally, the 2 stock rails were cut to length and slipped into position. Wires were soldered underneath to bond each stock rail to its neighbouring switch blade. That completed construction - what a pleasure it was to build this kit! From opening the package to the completed point took me about 1 hour of work, its far more fun building pointwork this way than using copperclad sleepers and rail which I have done on my OO-SF layout. The kit is very well designed, goes together extremely well and does not require a high skill level - just take care when measuring the rail to the required lengths and get the rails ends clean with a small file and you can't go wrong! Only basic tools are required - I used a circular rail cutter, a hand file, flat nose pliers, tweezers, a ruler and a soldering iron - nothing too special! Thanks very much to Wayne for producing this kit and for allowing me to do a test build. This kit and the whole range of products deserves to be a game changer for those of us who seek realism on our layouts. I greatly enjoyed the experience and its got me thinking of ways I can use this track system on a new layout in the future! Edited June 26, 2021 by 08221 Spilling 22 1 3 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted June 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2021 Looks like a great product, and thank you for the informative and useful review. 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithHC Posted June 26, 2021 Share Posted June 26, 2021 47 minutes ago, 08221 said: I was one of those lucky enough to be selected to test build one of the FinetraX OO-SF point kits. Postie knocked on my door and proffered me a substantial cardboard box containing the kit, well wrapped in bubble wrap to protect it. The kits is professionally presented in its packaging. The kit I received was the B7 left hand standard turnout kit, OO-SF with code 75 Bullhead rail. The components of the kit are below, comprising 1 x turnout base, 1 x cast V crossing, sufficient code 75 Bullhead rail including 2 switch blades which are pre-formed and a tie bar. The thing I did was to solder a wire to the bottom of the V crossing, then I glued the V crossing into its aligning holes in the sleeper base. Next, I cut the 2 check rails to length and slid them into position on the sleeper base. Next I cut the 2 rails to length to fit against the V crossing and slid them into place, taking care to leave a small gap between each rail and the V crossing. The next step was to attach one of the switch blades into its slot in the tie bar. The switch blade was them marked off where it meets the V crossing, cut to length and slipped into place - again taking care to leave a small gap. This process was repeated with the second switch blade. Finally, the 2 stock rails were cut to length and slipped into position. Wires were soldered underneath to bond each stock rail to its neighbouring switch blade. That completed construction - what a pleasure it was to build this kit! From opening the package to the completed point took me about 1 hour of work, its far more fun building pointwork this way than using copperclad sleepers and rail which I have done on my OO-SF layout. The kit is very well designed, goes together extremely well and does not require a high skill level - just take care when measuring the rail to the required lengths and get the rails ends clean with a small file and you can't go wrong! Only basic tools are required - I used a circular rail cutter, a hand file, flar nose pliers, tweezers, a ruler and a soldering iron - nothing too special! Thanks very much to Wayne for producing this kit and for allowing me to do a test build. This kit and the whole range of products deserves to be a game changer for those of us who seek realism on our layouts. I greatly enjoyed the experience and its got me thinking of ways I can use this track system on a new layout in the future! Nice to see putting the check rails first it does make the construction much easier. Well done. Keith 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted June 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2021 1 hour ago, 08221 said: I was one of those lucky enough to be selected to test build one of the FinetraX OO-SF point kits. Postie knocked on my door and proffered me a substantial cardboard box containing the kit, well wrapped in bubble wrap to protect it. The kits is professionally presented in its packaging. The kit I received was the B7 left hand standard turnout kit, OO-SF with code 75 Bullhead rail. The components of the kit are below, comprising 1 x turnout base, 1 x cast V crossing, sufficient code 75 Bullhead rail including 2 switch blades which are pre-formed and a tie bar. The first thing I did was to solder a wire to the bottom of the V crossing, then I glued the V crossing into its aligning holes in the sleeper base. Next, I cut the 2 check rails to length and slid them into position on the sleeper base. Next I cut the 2 rails to length to fit against the V crossing and slid them into place, taking care to leave a small gap between each rail and the V crossing. The next step was to attach one of the switch blades into its slot in the tie bar. The switch blade was them marked off where it meets the V crossing, cut to length and slipped into place - again taking care to leave a small gap. This process was repeated with the second switch blade. Finally, the 2 stock rails were cut to length and slipped into position. Wires were soldered underneath to bond each stock rail to its neighbouring switch blade. That completed construction - what a pleasure it was to build this kit! From opening the package to the completed point took me about 1 hour of work, its far more fun building pointwork this way than using copperclad sleepers and rail which I have done on my OO-SF layout. The kit is very well designed, goes together extremely well and does not require a high skill level - just take care when measuring the rail to the required lengths and get the rails ends clean with a small file and you can't go wrong! Only basic tools are required - I used a circular rail cutter, a hand file, flat nose pliers, tweezers, a ruler and a soldering iron - nothing too special! Thanks very much to Wayne for producing this kit and for allowing me to do a test build. This kit and the whole range of products deserves to be a game changer for those of us who seek realism on our layouts. I greatly enjoyed the experience and its got me thinking of ways I can use this track system on a new layout in the future! Thanks for the demo / review - looking great in such a short build time! A couple of questions - apologies if already covered in previous posts. Can I assume all of the rail material is Nickel Silver How much curvature could be applied to this turnout If there is to be transition into flexi track at 16.5mm would that be done in the flexi track rather than on the turnout. Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 08221 Posted June 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 26, 2021 1 hour ago, zr2498 said: Thanks for the demo / review - looking great in such a short build time! A couple of questions - apologies if already covered in previous posts. Can I assume all of the rail material is Nickel Silver How much curvature could be applied to this turnout If there is to be transition into flexi track at 16.5mm would that be done in the flexi track rather than on the turnout. Dave Hi Dave. The rail is all nickel silver, if I were to transition to 16.5mm, I'd do it on plain track well away from the turnout itself in order to maintain the structural integrity of the turnout. The turnout is very smooth once built, no jumps, hops or tights spots at all - proven by pushing a brake van through my completed unit - wheels set to OO-SF to match my layout. 5 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_H Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 18 hours ago, 08221 said: I was one of those lucky enough to be selected to test build one of the FinetraX OO-SF point kits. Postie knocked on my door and proffered me a substantial cardboard box containing the kit, well wrapped in bubble wrap to protect it. The kits is professionally presented in its packaging. The kit I received was the B7 left hand standard turnout kit, OO-SF with code 75 Bullhead rail. The components of the kit are below, comprising 1 x turnout base, 1 x cast V crossing, sufficient code 75 Bullhead rail including 2 switch blades which are pre-formed and a tie bar. The first thing I did was to solder a wire to the bottom of the V crossing, then I glued the V crossing into its aligning holes in the sleeper base. Next, I cut the 2 check rails to length and slid them into position on the sleeper base. Next I cut the 2 rails to length to fit against the V crossing and slid them into place, taking care to leave a small gap between each rail and the V crossing. The next step was to attach one of the switch blades into its slot in the tie bar. The switch blade was them marked off where it meets the V crossing, cut to length and slipped into place - again taking care to leave a small gap. This process was repeated with the second switch blade. Finally, the 2 stock rails were cut to length and slipped into position. Wires were soldered underneath to bond each stock rail to its neighbouring switch blade. That completed construction - what a pleasure it was to build this kit! From opening the package to the completed point took me about 1 hour of work, its far more fun building pointwork this way than using copperclad sleepers and rail which I have done on my OO-SF layout. The kit is very well designed, goes together extremely well and does not require a high skill level - just take care when measuring the rail to the required lengths and get the rails ends clean with a small file and you can't go wrong! Only basic tools are required - I used a circular rail cutter, a hand file, flat nose pliers, tweezers, a ruler and a soldering iron - nothing too special! Thanks very much to Wayne for producing this kit and for allowing me to do a test build. This kit and the whole range of products deserves to be a game changer for those of us who seek realism on our layouts. I greatly enjoyed the experience and its got me thinking of ways I can use this track system on a new layout in the future! This is an excellent review ..... makes me want to have a go! As Dave also mentioned, what is your opinion regarding curvature of the turnout ..... do you think it would be relatively easy to curve? Thanks Ian 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 48 minutes ago, Ian_H said: ....do you think it would be relatively easy to curve? I think in the privacy of my own home, I might try cutting all the webs away, bar those under one stock rail. BUT, there's then going to be certain geometry problems. and I would have thought there wouldn't be that much of a reduction in radii anyway on one of the stock rails. I think you could make a 'Y' though, removing the webs (as above), but obviously any warranty is lost . The sleepers under the crossing V (3 of them) would have to remain intact, but overall I think it would end up by making a pigs ear out of a silk purse. I've built two of these points in EM, excellent. 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted June 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 27, 2021 32 minutes ago, Penlan said: BUT, there's then going to be certain geometry problems. and I would have thought there wouldn't be that much of a reduction in radii anyway on one of the stock rails... ... ...The sleepers under the crossing V (3 of them) would have to remain intact, but overall I think it would end up by making a pigs ear out of a silk purse. Hi Sandy, I think you are being unduly pessimistic there. Admittedly I haven't built one, and you have, but I think these turnouts should be curvable quite successfully. See my previous post about this: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/161417-new-range-of-simple-to-assemble-00em-gauge-pointwork-kits-em-b7-prototype-first-look/&do=findComment&comment=4439575 Undoubtedly the best way to curve them would be to snip them down to individual timbers, apart from the 2 under the tie-bar and 3 under the crossing cating, and then stick them onto a curved template in the usual track-building way. It's easy to print a template in Templot which exactly matches them (as above in EM), and curve it to any radius you wish. If you print on 160gsm paper/card and trickle a bit of low-viscosity cyano into some of the chairs, it should be plenty robust enough to transfer to the baseboard as a unit. But failing that, trimming out all the webs except for under the main-side stock rail should be curvable in one piece to match the template quite closely, and maybe not be too flimsy. The effect of the straight crossing casting is only a couple of thou discrepancy from a true curve: which can either be ignored, or if fussy just a bit of fettling with needle files and/or abrasive paper would fix it. For best running it would be worth rounding over the nose of the vee in any case, as on the prototype. cheers, Martin. 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 1 hour ago, Ian_H said: This is an excellent review ..... makes me want to have a go! As Dave also mentioned, what is your opinion regarding curvature of the turnout ..... do you think it would be relatively easy to curve? Thanks Ian Ian I would at first curve the appropriate template in Templot to the radii you require they compare it with the turnout to see what you would have to do to achieve the curvature required 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Wayne Kinney Posted June 27, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted June 27, 2021 (edited) Here is an example of curving a standard turnout. B7 00-SF right hand. Firstly, before cutting the webbing, I insert both stock rails into the base to support the base. I then cut away all the webbing except around the cast frog, tie bar and 'straight' stock rail. The turnout is now free to flex much like normal flexi track. I printed out a curved B7 00-SF template from templot. I went to the extreme and curved beyond minimum radius (750mm) down to 560mm radius. I thought this would be a good test. I flexed the turnout base (with only stock rails installed) to get the best possible match to the printed templot template. Here are the results after gluing it on the paper template: Edited June 27, 2021 by Wayne Kinney 14 4 1 7 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 3 hours ago, martin_wynne said: Hi Sandy, I think you are being unduly pessimistic there. Admittedly I haven't built one, and you have, but I think these turnouts should be curvable quite successfully. cheers, Martin. Martin, Yes, I am a pessimist an acquired habit from 50+ years of EM gauge modelling. Also my near vision is not good these days, especially after, say, 30 minutes close work. As you can see Wayne has done a successful curved point. Well done Wayne, though without the crossing V in place, the first item to be fitted to the base, according to the instructions Martin, the two points I built have replaced a 3-way point (of about 40 years vintage on Penlan Mk2) I had in the new fiddle yard, a lot smother running through them now. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dominion Posted June 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 27, 2021 Someone earlier mentioned chemically blackening the cast frog. Can someone suggest what product to use. I am in Canada so not always easy to find the same products but I will try. Thanks for any input, Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted June 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 27, 2021 4 minutes ago, Dominion said: Someone earlier mentioned chemically blackening the cast frog. Can someone suggest what product to use. I am in Canada so not always easy to find the same products but I will try. Thanks for any input, Tom Hi Tom, Use "Gun Blue" from gun dealer/outdoor stores. Take care, it's poisonous. However, I don't see any advantage over painting the casting. cheers, Martin. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilton 34041 Posted June 27, 2021 Share Posted June 27, 2021 Hi all, very interesting and a great review. I'm curious to know what the rectangular box of sleepers are for half way along? Apologies if this has already been answered but they do spoil the effect of a scale turnout. Cheers, Phil B. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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