Using the easy-assembly Finetrax pointwork kits in 00 and EM (and in P4 from the S4 Society)

[Wayne Kinney]

On 03/01/2022 at 17:41, Gary H said:

will these be offered in flat bottom rail in due course??

I'll be working on the bullhead range this year (in 6 different gauges, mind!) so flat bottom will be something I wouldn't be looking into until 2023, sorry.

[Gary H]

8 hours ago, Wayne Kinney said:

I'll be working on the bullhead range this year (in 6 different gauges, mind!) so flat bottom will be something I wouldn't be looking into until 2023, sorry.

Don't apologise, I have plenty of time!!

Keep up the great work!!

[bradfordbuffer]

10 hours ago, Wayne Kinney said:

I'll be working on the bullhead range this year (in 6 different gauges, mind!) so flat bottom will be something I wouldn't be looking into until 2023, sorry.

Come on there is 24 hrs in a full day?

[hayfield]

20 hours ago, Wayne Kinney said:

I'll be working on the bullhead range this year (in 6 different gauges, mind!) so flat bottom will be something I wouldn't be looking into until 2023, sorry.

 

Sounds like you need the help of Santa's little helpers. Having to do all the work to keep up with the current range of its must be a full time job, let alone design and produce additional new kits.

 

Good luck for the new year

[KeithHC]

2 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

Sounds like you need the help of Santa's little helpers. Having to do all the work to keep up with the current range of its must be a full time job, let alone design and produce additional new kits.

 

Good luck for the new year

Added to his railway business Wayne also has a successful photographic business as well. So probably needs two lots of Santa’s helper.

 

Keith

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

A bit of practical advice please.

Has anybody laid one of the 4mm kits with a slight curve to it? If it is relevant it's a RH turnout in EM.

I am replacing an existing turnout with one of these in a slightly different position on a curve of generous radius, so does it need anything cutting out of the webbing, or will plenty of pins etc hold in a flexed orientation until the PVA sets?

 

TIA.

 

Mike.

[Wayne Kinney]

31 minutes ago, KeithHC said:

Added to his railway business Wayne also has a successful photographic business as well. So probably needs two lots of Santa’s helper.

 

Keith

I've now closed shoot35 and working 100% on Finetrax

[Wayne Kinney]

25 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

A bit of practical advice please.

Has anybody laid one of the 4mm kits with a slight curve to it? If it is relevant it's a RH turnout in EM.

I am replacing an existing turnout with one of these in a slightly different position on a curve of generous radius, so does it need anything cutting out of the webbing, or will plenty of pins etc hold in a flexed orientation until the PVA sets?

 

TIA.

 

Mike.

Hi Mike,

 

Please check one of my older posts:

You will certainly need to cut the webbing.

 

[RBAGE]

44 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

A bit of practical advice please.

Has anybody laid one of the 4mm kits with a slight curve to it? If it is relevant it's a RH turnout in EM.

I am replacing an existing turnout with one of these in a slightly different position on a curve of generous radius, so does it need anything cutting out of the webbing, or will plenty of pins etc hold in a flexed orientation until the PVA sets?

 

TIA.

 

Mike.

Hello Mike,

 

I applied a curve at the toe of a couple of points that I have laid. Mine were for a new layout rather than a replacement so I expect it will be more difficult for you.

I expect you'll be building the point on to a template, as I did. Anyhow, my template was just the position of the running rails with the required curve.

I cut out the web between every other timber on alternative sides. You probably won't need to remove so many, if any.

I applied a narrow strip of thin double sided tape down the centre of the running lines and reduced the tack of the exposed tape that will hold the point track base.

Then applied the track base to the template so the chairs aligned with the lines of the running rail.

The point or formation was built.

I don't wish to teach my granny how to suck eggs, but, remember when you introduce the curve the switch rails will then not be equal length.

Once built, the point should be easily removed from the template and will be a "flexible" point. So really you could adjust the radius to suit, within reason and within the limits of rail length changes.

 

I laid mine onto 3mm foam from DCC Concepts. Stuck down with PVA, I then used a staple gun to keep it in position until the PVA had grabbed the point (as per Norman Solomon method). I have the staple gun on the minimum force and let the recoil push the staple gun away from the point so the force is reduced further. This leaves the staple with a gap to the rail. I then tap it down until it just touches the rail.

I remove the staples when the PVA has grabbed rather than set so that if I have applied too much force the track can recover and I don't end up with a roller coaster.

 

With the staples in place you can continue to position the point until the PVA starts to grab.

 

I've laid eleven of these points with this method, they all operate nicely and seem perfectly flat and even. All have been tested and run beautifully.

 

Bob

[RBAGE]

32 minutes ago, RBAGE said:

Hello Mike,

 

I applied a curve at the toe of a couple of points that I have laid. Mine were for a new layout rather than a replacement so I expect it will be more difficult for you.

I expect you'll be building the point on to a template, as I did. Anyhow, my template was just the position of the running rails with the required curve.

I cut out the web between every other timber on alternative sides. You probably won't need to remove so many, if any.

I applied a narrow strip of thin double sided tape down the centre of the running lines and reduced the tack of the exposed tape that will hold the point track base.

Then applied the track base to the template so the chairs aligned with the lines of the running rail.

The point or formation was built.

I don't wish to teach my granny how to suck eggs, but, remember when you introduce the curve the switch rails will then not be equal length.

Once built, the point should be easily removed from the template and will be a "flexible" point. So really you could adjust the radius to suit, within reason and within the limits of rail length changes.

 

I laid mine onto 3mm foam from DCC Concepts. Stuck down with PVA, I then used a staple gun to keep it in position until the PVA had grabbed the point (as per Norman Solomon method). I have the staple gun on the minimum force and let the recoil push the staple gun away from the point so the force is reduced further. This leaves the staple with a gap to the rail. I then tap it down until it just touches the rail.

I remove the staples when the PVA has grabbed rather than set so that if I have applied too much force the track can recover and I don't end up with a roller coaster.

 

With the staples in place you can continue to position the point until the PVA starts to grab.

 

I've laid eleven of these points with this method, they all operate nicely and seem perfectly flat and even. All have been tested and run beautifully.

 

Bob

By the way, this isn't an simple desk type stapler. Something a bit more substantial is required.

[hayfield]

 

Firstly I would remove all but the outside webs on the area you wish to curve, preferably build on top of a template of the correct curvature, Templot is a great recourse. As said using very thin strips of double sided tape to hold it down if not building it in situ.

 

I have recently laid some timbers and track panels on to a track bed. I dislike PVA for many reasons one being the noise it transmits through the base board once it locks everything solid. In the past I have used both Evo/Bostik and Copydex  successfully. My objective is to preserve the properties of my underlay

 

After failing to buy a tube of Evostik recently I bought a Loctite product "60 second all purpose glue",  I had to lay some 60' track panels on to my track bed, a thin line of glue was quickly applied to every sleeper and the ease and efficiency, plus workability of the glue was superb, best of all it kept the integrity of the underlay intact, something I find PVA does not. For ballasting I dilute Copydex 50/50 with water and apply with a dropper over the ballast. Once the Copydex mix sets it retains its elasticity 

 

https://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/products/all-purpose-glue/60_sec_all-purposeglue.html

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Thank you all for the help and suggestions, gives me a bit more confidence in butchering such a work of art!

Shall keep my eyes peeled for the Loctite, although I'm not holding out much hope, Spain hasn't discovered UV curing glue yet!

 

Mike.

[Penlan]

33 minutes ago, hayfield said:

...... I bought a Loctite product "60 second all purpose glue",  ...... and the ease and efficiency, plus workability of the glue was superb, best of all it kept the integrity of the underlay intact......

https://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/products/all-purpose-glue/60_sec_all-purposeglue.html

I fully endorse hayfield's recommendation, I've found it a very useful addition to my stock of adhesives etc.,

Edited January 8, 2022 by Penlan

[martin_wynne]

On 08/01/2022 at 09:31, Enterprisingwestern said:

A bit of practical advice please.

Has anybody laid one of the 4mm kits with a slight curve to it? If it is relevant it's a RH turnout in EM.

I am replacing an existing turnout with one of these in a slightly different position on a curve of generous radius, so does it need anything cutting out of the webbing, or will plenty of pins etc hold in a flexed orientation until the PVA sets?

 

 

Hi Mike,

 

I suggest this method:

 

 

 

1. On the inside of the curve, snip out the pink webs and remove all or at least part of them.

 

2. On the outside of the curve, snip through but do not remove the green webs.

 

3. Leave the blue webs intact along the line of the main-road crossing rail.

 

4. The base will be fragile. Carefully pin or stick it to the template or trackbed along the desired curve, keeping it flat.

 

5. Along the outer green webs, apply some hot-melt adhesive from a hot glue gun into the opened-up cuts in the webs. This will lock the base to the curve and restore some strength to it, after which it could be removed from the template or trackbed to the workbench to complete the assembly in the usual way.

 

If you removed only a small part of the inner pink webs, you could also apply the hot-melt adhesive into the closed-up cuts on that side.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited June 21, 2022 by martin_wynne
repaired missing image

[Dominion]

On 08/01/2022 at 04:31, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

A bit of practical advice please.

Has anybody laid one of the 4mm kits with a slight curve to it? If it is relevant it's a RH turnout in EM.

I am replacing an existing turnout with one of these in a slightly different position on a curve of generous radius, so does it need anything cutting out of the webbing, or will plenty of pins etc hold in a flexed orientation until the PVA sets?

 

TIA.

 

Mike.

 

I curved one to look almost like the opposite hand for one application I needed.  There are a couple of posts with photos of the turn out dry fitted and also the underside currently on page 38 of this topic.

I will try to post a link to it and apologies for linking to my my own post, it just seemed like the easiest way of showing the bend again. Tom

 

Edited January 9, 2022 by Dominion

[RBAGE]

Hello,

Is there anybody there?

I'm starting to wonder if I had accidentally stopped following this topic.

Bob

[mezzoman253]

We're still here! Just January blues?

 

Rob

[Wayne Kinney]

Hi Guys,

 

The diamond crossing will be the next kit. However, I've been working hard this month on converting the N Gauge range over to the new Easy Build style of kit, which has taken up much of my time this month!

 

Should hopefully get the diamond kit out in the next 3 weeks, then followed by a smaller A5 turnout kit.

 

Stay tuned!

[Asterix2012]

A5 sounds good 

[NFWEM57]

7 hours ago, Wayne Kinney said:

the N Gauge range

What, all of it...!!!!!!!!   Wow, you are working hard..!

[martin_wynne]

1 hour ago, Asterix2012 said:

A5 sounds good 

 

A 9ft-5 would be better -- shorter overall but with easier radius. Same planing angle on the blades as "A":

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[hayfield]

12 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

 

A 9ft-5 would be better -- shorter overall but with easier radius. Same planing angle on the blades as "A":

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

 

 

The issue I can see for Wayne is modellers know what an A5 is, but would they know about a 9' 5  ? On a practiable side it makes sense, but would it commercially ?

[KeithHC]

1 hour ago, hayfield said:

 

 

The issue I can see for Wayne is modellers know what an A5 is, but would they know about a 9' 5  ? On a practiable side it makes sense, but would it commercially ?

Call it a medium radius.

 

Keith

[bradfordbuffer]

1 hour ago, KeithHC said:

Call it a medium radius.

 

Keith

Electro frog or insulated frog!!.....set track radius? 

May be a tutorial on point geometry for modellers? A simple picture etc

 

[martin_wynne]

1 hour ago, bradfordbuffer said:

Electro frog or insulated frog!!.....set track radius? 

May be a tutorial on point geometry for modellers? A simple picture etc

 

 

See: https://85a.uk/templot/companion/real_track.php

 

9ft switch is a straight switch.

 

"A" switch is a semi-curved switch.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.