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Sidelines LMS Full Brake


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So here we go. Dia. 2007 period 3 full brake. Just a journey, I'm only a beginner, not a pro. 

 

Tonight, well last couple of nights have seen me get the sides prepared. I have also cut out the glazing and placed in its own bag ready for later. 

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Edited by T30RRA
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Good start.  I quite like building these sort of kits.  I did a D&S LNER General Purpose van some time ago and just finished a CRT Kits BR 6 wheeled passenger brake.  It's great fun and the more practice you get the better.

 

Must look up Sidelines to see if they have anything I fancy.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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What time period/livery are you planning on?

 

One thing I’ve learned on my LMS BG journey is that by the time they were painted blue the ‘hoods’ above the doors had been removed giving a much cleaner appearance.

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1 hour ago, Waveydavey said:

What time period/livery are you planning on?

 

One thing I’ve learned on my LMS BG journey is that by the time they were painted blue the ‘hoods’ above the doors had been removed giving a much cleaner appearance.

 

Strictly late-ish LMS for me. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A few more bits tonight. I'm leaving the coach side handrails and door handles off until after painting, or they will get in the way of lining. I'm also waiting for some flat styrene strip for the panel joins on the roof and will hopefully be getting some etched door bumpers from CPL. Oddly, my other sidelines kits have the etched end plates for the corridor connectors but this hasn't got any. 

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I've finished the body now apart from handrails and door handles after painting and the roof is now secure and just awaiting the panelling joint strips. Onto the underframe next.

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Sole bars and Queen posts in now. My initial attempt to separate the door bumpers for the etches proved unsuccessful, without losing them in the process. I will try again soon. Thankfully I ordered plenty but they are tiny.

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Most kits I have built have the door bumpers as half etched to be pressed out.  Failing that, it might be easier to drill and insert wire for these.

 

John

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Hi John, these are etched on the outside to drill out for the wire but that is only the buffer. There is suppose to be a oval shaped surround like this too 

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1 hour ago, brossard said:

Ah, I see.  Pretty fiddly stuff then.  :fie:

 

John

The very devil. I would like to put them on and haven't given up yet. Separating them from the etch is OK but cleaning the cusps off is very difficult.

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12 hours ago, brossard said:

... if you solder them to the wire first, they would be easier to hold and file.

Agreed - and hold the wire in a pin-chuck to make life that much easier.

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A couple of points about soldering.  First I would say that, based on what I have seen on RMweb, everyone seems to have their own way of soldering and if it works for you, great.

 

My first point is about solder quantity control.  For years now I have cut a tiny piece of solder from the roll and applied by picking it up on the iron tip.  I still have to clean up but I don't get great gobs of the stuff on the work.

 

Second, if you can't pick solder up with your bit, it is done and you need a new one.  I got myself some brass wool a while ago and it has been great at keeping the tip clean.  I dip the tip into the wool frequently.  A damp sponge works but it dries out and has to be refreshed.

 

John

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I use loctite tip cleaner. Great stuff. My soldering isn't the best but I wouldn't say its all over the place? 

 

Anyhow wheels have been blackened now and bogies started. 

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For the CPL door bumpers I didnt fancy drilling through my coach so seated the etches in a drop of susperglue applied with pin, then used plastic rod the bumpers which I trimmed later. They can make a massive improvement but you do have to take care to try and cut them off the fret evenly and line them all up well or they stand out - quite tricky to be honest.

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Edited by Hal Nail
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Easy-Build supply really nice lost wax bumpers for their coach and DMU kits. If memory serves you get about 8 per casting. Might be worth an enquiry. Shawn is a very approachable, friendly chap. 

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