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Building an ex NER G5 0-4-4 Tank from a London Road Models 4mm kit


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Richard,

 

I don't know whether you have a picture of a G5, taken from the side but here's one which was. This shows the relative depth of the coupling rods, quite well. This locomotive - 67282 - is the subject of one of my own G5 models and was a long time resident of Hull Botanic Gardens shed. The photo, courtesy Mick Nicholson, was taken in 1952.

 

Like most of the G5's, by this time, the loco footplate visibly sagged across its length! Put a ruler against the photo, on your screen, and you can see just how much the footplate sagged!! I have to say that I chose not to represent this sagging 'feature' on any of my G5 models!!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

1 G5 67282 Botanic August 1952.jpg

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5 hours ago, mikemeg said:

don't know whether you have a picture of a G5, taken from the side but here's one which was. This shows the relative depth of the coupling rods, quite well.

Hi Mike,

 

Many thanks, that is a really good profile shot and a great help. I have reduced the width of the rod and chamfered

the edges. I have also blackened the rods.

 

Regarding the running/footplate you can't really miss the sag!! Mine is fairly strait too!

 

Thanks again,

 

Richard B

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I have sorted out what I hope will be effective pickups for the bogie. I don't intend fitting the brake gear and other underframe parts (sand boxes, brake cylinder etc) until the body is complete.

 

Started work on the body - soldered valances to the running plate. The instructions say that thses should be 0.75 mm from the edge of the plate. If you set your dividers to 1mm then run them along the edge of the running plate the result is a line 0.75mm from the edge. I used blutack to locate the valance and hair clips to clamp to the plate and then run a solder fillet along the joint continually checking location and ensuring the valance is square.

 

The G5's had a wooden buffer beam with a steel plate through bolted to secure the assembly. I chose to use plasticard for the wooden section rather than the brass box section brass as supplied. The etched overlay is very thin and would not be able to take drawbar loads so I cut up the brass box section to provide a backing plate soldered to the running plate and valance end to which I will glue the plasticard and overlay. All the load will be taken by the backing plate.

 

Running plate with valances and buffer backing plates soldered in position. "Wooden" buffer beams and overlays ready to fit after clearance holes for buffers and drawbar drilled.

1923988879_001(2).JPG.95e65a940c808fa8a8d004b79969a003.JPG

1379993125_002(2).JPG.8133a9098f83057bc5577cef2116b062.JPG

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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The running plate is now complete with all the detail I wish to add at this stage. So on to the bodywork next.

I have added rivet detail to the valances and soldered on a series of brackets to mount the two pipes running along each side of the loco just below the valance - I assume these are the vacuum brake pipe and the steam heat pipe. From the pictures I have it looks as if those loco's fitted with vacuum push-pull are fitted with vacuum brakes rather than air since the steam driven air pump's were removed. I assume then the push pull sets were all vacuum braked??? I have no knowledge of LNER/NER coaching stoke I'm afraid.

 

Buffer laminate fitted.

1439619079_001(2).JPG.205ee29198e7ccdaea5171e7604955c8.JPG

1135636347_003(2).JPG.139a021a6327a5dd0e2041fa11f01f94.JPG

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Richard,

 

For fixing the valances to the footplate, at the recommended 0.75 mm from the edge, I cheated.

 

Like you I drew the lines 0.75 mm from the edge but then used some 'scrap' 0.015" nickel silver strip 1.0 mm wide - just recovered from some etched sheets and dressed off - soldered to the underside of the running plate along the scribed line. One piece at each end and a third piece in the middle on each side.

 

These then acted both as positioning pieces and supports to hold the valance vertical, using the edge of a steel rule, pressing the valance against these pieces, while the initial soldering was done. I used exactly the same technique on the valance for the two B16/1's. With the depth of the valances, on the G5, these positioning pieces are completely hidden, once the valance is attached.  Even on the B16/1, where the valances are much narrower, these pieces remain completely invisible.

 

Much easier than relying solely on the scribed line!

 

The plasticard cradles, supporting the model off the ground, appear in loads of my photos. They save compromising any detail below the footplate while the chassis is absent!

 

As an aside, I save almost any straight piece of brass or nickel silver, longer than 5 cm and of varying widths, from etched sheets and just keep them in a couple of labelled draws in the 'bits and pieces' multi-draw cabinet. Amazing now, how many times I use bits from those two little draws!!

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

P1240014.JPG

P1250016.JPG

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1 hour ago, mikemeg said:

As an aside, I save almost any straight piece of brass or nickel silver, longer than 5 cm and of varying widths, from etched sheets and just keep them in a couple of labelled draws in the 'bits and pieces' multi-draw cabinet. Amazing now, how many times I use bits from those two little draws!!

 

Hi Mike,

 

I have many, many pieces of brass and nickel silver bits and pieces and many bits left over from previous builds - in particular all those unused frame spacers which, depending on the gauge you work in, leaves many an EM/FS spacers in my box of bits!

 

I am a great advocate of using very thin (5,10 thou) brass sheet too. Its relatively cheap and is invaluable for smokebox wrappers and as frame overlays. It is very easy to create fairly accurate rivet detail. I used some on my DJH A2/3 build a little while back.

 

I like your suggestion regarding the valance is very helpful but in all honesty I don't really find it tricky to solder the valance to the running plate on any loco I have built. Cleaning all the casting flash from a white metal cast running plate is much more difficult!

 

kind regards,

 

Richard B

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I am thoroughly enjoying watching the kit build in progress! I have to admit to not following such threads in the past being a out and out 1980’s BR stalwart for my sins!    

   I am going to update the non RMweb Darlington MRC members of the progress in our monthly e-mail update.

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Today's update. It is always important to use pictures of the painted number (if possible) of the prototype loco you are building but as I look closer at the G5's it is particularly important. Something as humdrum as the gravity (displacement) lubricators mounted on the end of the side tanks. They are often different each side and the local "furniture" can vary from loco to loco and through time.

 

Thanks for the comments Andy - its great that you are following the build and likewise that other builders of this kit have contributed. Makes it more worthwhile.

Side tanks just tacked to the running plate.

2132087391_001(2).JPG.5237618d82db3269837fcec451099d6c.JPG

67305 had a plate over the end of the L/H tanks where the air brake pump would have been mounted.

1942979178_002(2).JPG.e71e1b2a7a5c6cfe25935989bc98f1af.JPG

I have replaced the small balance weights on the leading wheels - I couldn't find the parts in the kit so made my own then discovered the kit versions! Ho hum!

1576029085_003(2).JPG.08803618d2e3008bfd3cb127a5d2a298.JPG

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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On 03/02/2021 at 20:20, 43110andyb said:

being a out and out 1980’s BR stalwart for my sins!  

 

No shame in that Andy! I worked for BR from 1963 until 2006 then a further 5 years as a consultant. I just prefer to model the steam period being right at the end of 150 years or so of history! I also have a model of a BRC&W Crompton type 3 and a Hampshire DEMU because I worked on them as an apprentice. Later I signed off all the class 91 loco's built at Crewe Works but never felt the desire to have a model. Interesting loco's though!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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18 hours ago, 30368 said:

Today's update. It is always important to use pictures of the painted number (if possible) of the prototype loco you are building but as I look closer at the G5's it is particularly important. Something as humdrum as the gravity (displacement) lubricators mounted on the end of the side tanks. They are often different each side and the local "furniture" can vary from loco to loco and through time.

 

Thanks for the comments Andy - its great that you are following the build and likewise that other builders of this kit have contributed. Makes it more worthwhile.

Side tanks just tacked to the running plate.

1724412460_001(2).JPG.97899fa7e6c123f58262b56e17f834f3.JPG

 

 

67305 had a plate over the end of the L/H tanks where the air brake pump would have been mounted.

1799192873_002(2).JPG.ed7a46ffb54932cb5c78fcfaeb14645e.JPG

 

I have replaced the small balance weights on the leading wheels - I couldn't find the parts in the kit so made my own then discovered the kit versions! Ho hum!

 

2128039811_003(2).JPG.066ea0392e05072e132f6c9fcf53c8ae.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Hi Richard 

 

I’m enjoying your build - it’s a lovely prototype.

 

A quick question if I may?

 

How did you fabricate the oil pots on the end of the tanks? Were they supplied in the kit or did you scratch them?

 

They appear all over the ex-NER locos and I need quite a few!

 

Jon

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On 06/02/2021 at 10:27, Jon4470 said:

Hi Richard 

 

I’m enjoying your build - it’s a lovely prototype.

 

Hi Jon,

 

The LSWR used a lot of gravity (displacement) lubricators too. Being a great fan of Mr Urie's 4-6-0's, in particular the H15s, I needed a supply of gravity lubricators for each driving wheel and in the cab. So I searched some time ago for a suitable brass casting. Alan Gibson (Colin is the owner) does a lovely brass casting tree with 2,3 and 4 piped oil boxes. I have used these on the G5 but have added the brass pipes and on the L/H lubricator a 5 thou brass sheet cover which, I assume, was added to protect the lubricator from water spillage from the tank filler which is located directly above.

 

As mentioned above, I like to research the painted number loco that I am building. Following a further set of great images from Richard Barber of the Armstrong Trust it appears that 67305 had a lubricator cover on both sides which is logical but said cover is not present on all photographs!

 

A few more images of 305:

A splendid ex works view:

1770388844_197867305DarlingtonWks29-04-56(FWHampson)778.jpg.4b263c31e6b639378686886cf6521aeb.jpg

 

 

A few months later? Lubricator cover has been bashed on this side.

328022714_146167305DarlingtonWksCrossing14-12-58(NWSkinner)469(002).jpg.1d600c6e2c59894ad655d1768aaa88f2.jpg

 

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Working on the smokebox front and splasher assembly today.

 

The first thing I noticed from my images of 305 is that the rivet detail is different from the supplied etch. You can see from the picture above that there are no rivet heads on the splasher/sandbox ends but a series of 10 (?) rivet heads on the smokbox front just above the removable steam chest cover.

 

So....

The three rivets on each side of the splasher fronts were ignored and 10 rivets added - should have been a bit straiter but the eyes you know.... besides if you look carefully many lines of rivets are not strait on prototypes either! I used the two round head pliers to form the curved top to the splasher/sandbox.

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Soldered up L/H

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All soldering from the inside.

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And it starts to look like a loco...

420399293_008(2).JPG.49a1ad119760116a888c96928f74c7aa.JPG

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Today I hooked up the motor and gearbox - runs very well from low speed. The bogie now has pickups fitted and in the picture below the chassis is running from the bogie pickups. Meshing still needs a little adjustment in reverse.

 

952534427_008(2).JPG.4d29441b539d9a18a170e8e9e795538e.JPG

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Chassis will need some lead distributed to assist traction - with only 4 driving wheels this will be essential.

 

Working on the bunker area - the instructions suggest fitting the rear specticle plate and then assemble the bunker. To improve access to the bunker area I will assemble the bunker as far as I can and then fit the spec. plate. The first task is to fit the sloping base of the bunker, in fact it is a well tank since there are equalising pipes to connect the well tank to the side tank. Given that, I have added rivet detail since the well tank would have been so constructed.

Stopping a bit early today - neck ache!!

 

Specticle plate only temp. fitted.

1833561404_001(2).JPG.7b9836e93e015b2a0d7d456ec51f804d.JPG

 

Still need to solder tank to bunker rear.

2087014498_002(2).JPG.60cbfacceb8218459b3cdb34901af1bc.JPG

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Does anyone have any pictures of the G5 cab interior - in particular the bunker end? A big ask I know interior shots very rare.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Richard Barber of the Armstrong Trust has turned up some really useful images of the cab area, sadly during scrapping. More than I expected really so few cab interior shots taken I suspect.

 

Side tank tops and cab splashers constructed and soldered to the body and thankfully the boiler sits very well.

 

116241183_006(2).JPG.1386e0969b90397ff2c13c76a9739fea.JPG

 

86292327_007(2).JPG.5cbaaab471bb93458320c7a5b2c4353a.JPG

 

Some cab interior shots:

1810464018_014467248cabDuns10-07-50(CJBSanderson)198.jpg.0375187b188b13615d373a7f47321c7f.jpg

1898762341_1641-11643-11647-11648-1G5ReversinggearDarlingtonScrapyard1957-8(JWArmstrong35mm)386.jpg.a2f1c82b0375d51dc7908c914e2bba39.jpg

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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30 minutes ago, 30368 said:

Richard Barber of the Armstrong Trust has turned up some really useful images of the cab area, sadly during scrapping. More than I expected really so few cab interior shots taken I suspect.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

Wow, they are fantastic images of the cab, thanks for sharing them.

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Today I worked on the boiler/smokebox assembly. I wanted to cut out the motor clearance space so that I can check all is well with alignment with the cab, tanks and chassis. I also wanted to sort out the smokebox wrapper.

 

Firstly the boiler cut out. Unlike many boilers, which are pre-rolled brass sheet the boiler on this kit is a piece of very accurate polished tube and is really first class. The smokebox wrapper is the same diameter made from the same material so will have to be split to fit over the end of the boiler.

 

The motor cut-out was marked on the boiler with felt tip and then scribed. I had thought that I could use a grind wheel to cut the boiler but this was not very effective so I used a hacksaw and tin snips which worked very well.

 

254242123_001(2).JPG.b670012537c8acd228ec9c8fc0ca9300.JPG

 

The HighLevel coreless motor mounting lugs on the gearbox protrude a bit so I had to file additional clearance for these.

954851293_003(2).JPG.99d64f7f6864172e9f86507abee7fef1.JPG

 

The wrapper supplied has no rivet detail so I produced a 5 tho brass overlay. The end of the wrapper was also chamfered to improve the join with the smokebox front plate.

1200674106_005(2).JPG.b1010e9ef9fabe18aa5430ef874fe40f.JPG

 

I glued the overlay to the wrapper - I have soldered before and that works too but is more difficult due to the need to maintain squareness and apply heat in a uniform way (I used one of those cooking blow torches).

1203451647_006(2).JPG.3ff9e842307742fae58aa5c705c83272.JPG

 

When the overlay/wrapper was completely cured I then cut through both with tinsnips so that the assembly would fit over the end of the boiler.

Boiler and spectacle plate temporarily fitted - looks ok.

 

361619739_009(2).JPG.f08226937676186a7f3c5bc70f33724c.JPG

 

The chassis fits easily with no fouling to speak of. So I am pleased!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

PS Please excuse spelling/ typo's etc....I'm not as young as I once was and no spell checker on this site unless someone tells me differently.

 

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Preparing lost of parts today - cutting from etch and cleaning up. The boiler banding is soldered on and the boiler soldered to the loco body. The dome and chimney are lovely brass castings but need a bit of prep to remove casting sprue - I am not keen to drill large holes in the boiler.

 

I have found the Connonoissuer Models O gauge kit instructions on line and they are first class and include a good drawing too. Not difficult to convert dimentions to 4mm. I thank them for this boon and hope I have not infringed any rights!

 

Thanks for all the interest and help!

 

1517780835_001(2).JPG.416fede0a06dbe21d340dc3176b1f9ff.JPG

776465284_002(2).JPG.2b6b7a3f0c858cc7a0a279b9c1ea4f01.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

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Hi,

 

Today I mainly did boiler fittings because I like to see the model start to look like a locomotive. The G5 seems to have two washout plugs per side offset from one another as is usual. I used the excellent Markits washout plugs. I considered soldering them from the inside of the boiler but rejected this for fear of solder leeching through to the outside and covering the detail so super glue it was.

 

The kit, for some reason, came without appropriate Ross Pop safety valves for the mid 1950's, the ones supplied are on a mounting, Markits parts on order from Peters Spares. The whistle supplied is very accurate.

 

The chimney needs some more fettling and that dome is a bit too shiny for my liking....shiny brass domes before you can say Swindon!

 

8549727_001(2).JPG.aa925fe69149ca791dd455b4f264abc0.JPG

 

 

A point for Andy and the Darlington Model Railway Club:-

 

Guys, I usually fit screw couplings at both ends on my loco's which may be fine for this push-pull fitted loco (?)  but I will leave it to you to fit whatever coupling you wish after I hand it over.

Also I will fit a 67305 front number plate and paint it with BR MT livery and a 51A shed plate since in the mid 1950's that's where she was shedded.

Hope that is all ok?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Hi Richard, as mentioned before enjoying the build, progress is remarkable and with such attention to detail!

     The locomotives that run on Tees Castle as far as I can remember have a bar fitted to allow coupling to Sprat & Winkle couplings on the majority of stock. I will seek further details from the club members ‘in the know’ also for the shed plate which I’m sure as layout is set in the 50’s will be most welcome.

    I would prefer the look of a screw coupling personally as it’s also how I model my 80’s stock with 3-link/instanter/screw couplings as required.

 

Many Thanks

 

Andy

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