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Ruston 165DS slow kit build


Martinnj
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Hi there, 

I am building my front first Judith Edge kit, a Ruston 165DS, and have got to the part where I need the bolt the floor for the cab and engine bonnet to the footplate.

Are there any tips out there on how to handle the tiny 14BA nuts and bolts, presently it is take me about 20 mins to get each nut on a bolt!!!

there must be a quicker way??

Can any one help?

thanks and Happy Christmas 

Martin

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5 minutes ago, Martinnj said:

Hi there, 

I am building my front first Judith Edge kit, a Ruston 165DS, and have got to the part where I need the bolt the floor for the cab and engine bonnet to the footplate.

Are there any tips out there on how to handle the tiny 14BA nuts and bolts, presently it is take me about 20 mins to get each nut on a bolt!!!

there must be a quicker way??

Can any one help?

thanks and Happy Christmas 

Martin

 

A pin chuck https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/261553101352?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=261553101352&targetid=1003232594598&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006537&poi=&campaignid=10199638297&mkgroupid=101938342477&rlsatarget=pla-1003232594598&abcId=1145987&merchantid=101736784&gclid=CjwKCAiA25v_BRBNEiwAZb4-ZcmCosFvRz2Xaq_3FEbHLvaJ3VxK_Hh4pPAwDC4vzp4P1aZRv5wpFBoCZGAQAvD_BwE

 

John Isherwood.

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17 minutes ago, Martinnj said:

Hi there, 

I am building my front first Judith Edge kit, a Ruston 165DS, and have got to the part where I need the bolt the floor for the cab and engine bonnet to the footplate.

Are there any tips out there on how to handle the tiny 14BA nuts and bolts, presently it is take me about 20 mins to get each nut on a bolt!!!

there must be a quicker way??

Can any one help?

thanks and Happy Christmas 

Martin

 

A slightly blunted cocktail stick can be handy too!

 

John Isherwood.

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1 minute ago, cctransuk said:

 

A slightly blunted cocktail stick can be handy too!

 

John Isherwood.

Thankfully once the nuts are on they get soldered to the floor!! But took an hour and a half to get the cab floor done lol

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16 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

A slightly blunted cocktail stick can be handy too!

 

John Isherwood.

Or try trimming the cocktail stick off square and fix the nut to the end with double sided tape. Alternatively, make a small tube of masking tape on the end of the stick to hold the nut until the thread bites.

Best advice though, find a suitable tray on which to work ( the larger presentation trays of Ferrera Rocher are perfect) to catch the little blighters as they try and escape.

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....try a clutch pencil.  The smaller size can hold a 14BA nut easily and securely. Once you've got a hold of the nut in the clutch, it's easy to twizzle it onto a bolt and the nut can be released using one hand. See https://www.cassart.co.uk/drawing/pencils/mechanical-pencils/faber-castell-tk4600-clutch-pencil-hb-2mm.htm.

I also use a sharp point in the same pencil as a marking out scriber and for other odd jobs - with lead in it, it works pretty well for drawing too!

 

Kit PW

 

A 1920s 7mm terminus layout: Swan Hill - https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/blog/2502-swan-hill/

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Not yet mentioned, I just lick the end of my finger and push down onto the nut.  Usually stays in place long enough to enable it to be transferred to where it is needed and start on the thread.

 

For spanners I have several home made.  A piece of silver steel, other metals will do, just filed flat and jaws made.  It's not hardened or anything as the forces involved are small.  I also have a set of spanners made from socket cap screws.  I bought an assortment years ago (for those old enough, Whistons but I'm sure a search of ebay would turn up similar).  Find a cap that fits and in my case the screw was fixed in to some spare aluminium rod but anything suitable will do.  I made 12 BA, 14 BA and M2, two sets, one for the bench and the other for the travelling tool box.  These have the advantage that the nut can be nestled in to the end of the spanner and fitting then becomes a doddle.

 

Tony Comber

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I use a magnetized screwdriver to hold the screws, I can hold the nuts easily by hand but I do realise that many can't do this. The nuts we gaet at the moemnt don't fit in my 14BA box spanner (often referred to as  a nut spinner) but they are different sizes at different times.

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12 hours ago, Deano747 said:

I go with a tiny blob of blu-tac, as per Dagworth, on the end of a blunt cock-tail stick

 

Yes, in my experience this is the best way to go - it works with 16BA used in loco valve gear too.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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Small screws, or indeed those located in difficult place, can be temporarily fixed to the screwdriver with a very small dab of cheap super glue - easily separated afterwards. Nuts can be pushed into the grain end of soft wood - Balsa for example. For any nut soldered into place, as has been mention, thread onto a cocktail stick.

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G W Models do "nut spinners", which are a posh kind of box spanner,  in small BA sizes. One can drop the nut into the spinner and use the tool to carry it onto the stud.

 

For holding machine screws, jewellers' three-pronged stone-tweezers can be useful. They don't work very well for holding nuts.

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On 27/12/2020 at 09:52, shipbadger said:

Not yet mentioned, I just lick the end of my finger and push down onto the nut.  Usually stays in place long enough to enable it to be transferred to where it is needed and start on the thread.

This, cheapest and best (though not COVID secure)

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