Control Panel LEDS

[KieFowler27]

Plan too wire point box for dcc with leds, using seep pm1 motors, does dcc mean I can operate the leds variable positives and negatives from the frog/ terminal f and then power the common led feeds from the tracks dcc bus wire and daisy chain said wires too each respective set better than dc ? I tried testing this using a dc combi and the leds would work right but the controller/track feed wasn’t operating right  and I later read that dcc enhances the ability for this too work ? Is that right or would it still not Make a difference?

 

Basically I want to operate which leds light up on the panel from the points frog and power the leds by the tracks buss wire feed, it doesn’t work on dc but will the same way work on dcc ? 

Edited December 30, 2020 by KieFowler27

[Ron Ron Ron]

How are you operating the points, by DCC or by analogue switches?

[KieFowler27]

11 hours ago, Ron Ron Ron said:

How are you operating the points, by DCC or by analogue switches?

Spdts running into a cdu,  cdu too 16v ac 

[John ks]

From your description i think this is what you are asking for

 

Version 1 

As shown the green LED at the top will light up indicating the straight route is clear

D1 & D2 & the diodes in Version 2 & Version 3 are to protect the LEDs from reverse voltage

 

Versions 2 & 3 are for bi colour LEDs,  common Anode or Cathode should work

As shown the Green top LED & Red bottom LED will light, indicating that straight is clear & diverging route is not clear

 

One Quirk with this circuit is that when the point changes & the common of the point switch is between contacts all the LEDs will light up

With a solenoid point motor all LEDs will flash for a very short time 

 

 

 

John

Second Edit 

With the resistors in versions 2 & 3 in their original position there was a circuit from rail A Via a diode & LED to rail B.

This would Blow the diode &/or LED instantly

Adding extra resistors & moving the existing resistor to the new location should solve this problem

Edited January 8, 2021 by John ks

[Suzie]

You can buy 'AC' LEDs which are ideal for this application since they don't require the protection diodes and therefore make wiring a bit simpler for the version 1 scenario:-

 

Green AC LED

https://www.rapidonline.com/truopto-osggd25111e-5mm-pure-green-ac-led-22-000mcd-15-56-2309

 

Red AC LED

https://www.rapidonline.com/truopto-osrrj25111a-5mm-red-ac-led-5800mcd-15-56-2311

 

White AC LED

https://www.rapidonline.com/truopto-oswwy25111e-5mm-white-ac-led-10000mcd-15-56-2314

 

Blue AC LED

https://www.rapidonline.com/truopto-osbby25111e-5mm-blue-ac-led-5800mcd-15-56-2307

 

Yellow AC LED

https://www.rapidonline.com/truopto-osyyj25111a-5mm-yellow-ac-led-5800mcd-15-56-2316

 

 

3mm versions are available too.

Edited January 1, 2021 by Suzie
Extra info

[John ks]

3 hours ago, Suzie said:

therefore make wiring a bit simpler for the first 'version 2' (should that be version 1?)

Opps Thanks for showing my mistake, it should be Version 1. Its fixed now

John

[John ks]

On 31/12/2020 at 10:13, John ks said:

With the resistors in versions 2 & 3 in their original position there was a circuit from rail A Via a diode & LED to rail B.

This would Blow the diode &/or LED instantly

Adding extra resistors & moving the existing resistor to the new location should solve this problem

After redrawing the circuit i decided to build a version on a breadboard to prove that the circuit works & the following pics are the results

The first pic shows the quirk that results when the frog is not connected to either rail

The last pic shows how the breadboard connects to the switch on the point motor

 

John

 

[Suzie]

You get four indications. Both lights on meaning the point is in a 'mid' position, and both lights off meaning there is no power to the track. This can be handy for quick fault finding.