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Lowering the body on the earlier batch of class 47s


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C0F6A6E8-25D1-451B-BACE-BA06FAE7DAA9.jpeg.45082e8908231dff0e9b2eb265b5e7d5.jpeg9B6182CE-2763-40F9-8E58-86C27FD492EB.jpeg.6628b234dfe25d7f3a5284cec79451f7.jpeg77A7632C-0607-4700-85F4-D21AB0C1F5DB.jpeg.4678e9dcf5c640ed3664cbad9331e0cd.jpegB897D1C3-695A-4E31-BC5D-C464142297C6.jpeg.84c5752480cdbe75da8da3f82a239835.jpegHi

 

I have spent some Tier 4 time lowering the bodies on some Farish class 47s (the original run of the current blue riband model) and class 37s. I couldn’t find a previous post on how to go about this so thought I would share some pictures and notes in case it’s a help to any one else.

 

For the 47, there are 6 steps:

 

1.   Remove the body from the chassis and in unclip the fuel tank etc from the underside of the chassis. Slide out the lighting PCBs at each end of the chassis - these slide out vertically.  Extend the cut out on each side of the PCB by around 1.5mm so that the PCBs sit lower in their grooves.

2.   Cut back the 4 metal spigots the protrude from the top of the chassis and chamfer their edges. I found that they could be snipped back with a small pair of wire cutters. 
3.    Cut back the bottom inside edge of the 4 body side windows. I used an abrasive ball mini drill bit ( it probably has a special name) - see photo. Take care not to go through the body side or to go to far up that the grey paint on the back of the window is disturbed as viewed from the external side. 
4.   I slightly chamfered the chassis ends to ease the route of the wires to the lighting PCBs and inserted a small piece of masking tape to eliminate any risk of a short circuit between 

the back of theses wires and the chassis.

5.  I found I needed to remove the details on the outside corners of the bogies as these fouled the sides of the buffer beam - this was needed because I have a minimum radius of around 11 inches. 
6.  Remove the protruding bits on the 4 spigots the connect the fuel tank to the chassis. I found that the friction between these spigots was sufficient to hold the fuel tank in place on the reassembled model but some double sided tape or blue tack could be used. 

I will add the photos here and in follow on posts and apologies for those pictures that are are upside down - I can’t see any way to rotate them. 

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Yes I have posted a few pictures in the Modelling Real Locations section (although it really should be in the Layout Topic as my overall layout is far from an accurate representation in the Marylebone area!). Also a few mis-orientated photos I'm afraid! The link is:  Marylebone in N Gauge - Modelling real locations - RMweb   

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ben Ando wrote an article for ModalRail when the original batch came out.

 

His method  was quite simple IIRC.

 

It involves placing a piece of platicard in the bottom of the fuel tank and reducing the height of the four corner pins on top of the chassis.

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