Jump to content
 

Coupling Removal.


 Share

Recommended Posts

You can make the Kadees fit, but the old ones look like the rivetted type which are sods to remove as the rivets get hot and melt the plastic when you try to drill them and the plastic "Tube" they fit down has a habit of ripping out of he chassis.  I made up new fixing plates for mine after ripping out the plastic tube, made from plastic like the underframe (old photocopier casing) held by Evostick pipe weld and I was only close coupling the wagons using Airfix couplings.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a drill bit slightly bigger than the rivet in a pin vice - takes a bit longer than a power drill but doesn't heat things up! Where possible I drill 'em from the inside. Don't chuck the released rivets away, they make neat exhaust ports etc.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 31/12/2020 at 08:56, bartram108 said:

I've managed to remove old Hornby couplings with a mini drill without any heating issue - only takes a few seconds.

 

Graham

Same here, a quick dab of oil for lubricating the drill bit also helps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd use a beefy pair of side cutters and remove the whole assembly and then dump it in the bin where it belongs (sell on eBay is an alternative!). This satisfying procedure would be followed by filing the remains flush with the solebars. A screw (or glue) will then hold a Kadee no. 5 in the correct place. Some packing will probably be needed, but it depends on the actual height required. (Kadee's height is intended to represent the American 33½" height in H0 scale, which (probably by accident) turns out about the same as UK tension locks and the Peco/HD type.)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...