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After seeing an ad from WM Collectables in the online BRM mag I bought a Millholme kit for an MR Fowler 483 Class 4-4-0. Buxton had a number of these from the late 1920s to replace 2-4-0s and saturated 4-4-0s. The loco chassis is is the good old 0.9mm thick brass with screw spacers. The motor mount section, above the right-hand axle hole, was removed so that a High Level Road Runner gear box with Mitsumi motor would be horizontal in the boiler/firebox.

 

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While awaiting the wheel set from Markits, I tackled the tender. I had quite forgotten how heavy these white metal kits are. The tender top was replaced with black Plastikard so that there was plenty of room in the tender for a decoder and speaker- if it didn't go in the engine. I'll put pick-ups on the outer tender wheels.

 

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A little bit of filler will be needed, but not as much as some models I have built.

 

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The tender is just about finished now save for some filling which I will do when it's had an undercoat of Halford's Etch Primer.

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And a good start has been made on the loco body. More will need to be filled on this part of the build.

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Plumbing and hand-rails have been fitted,

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then I turned my attention to making things a lot safer for the crew.

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The model was designed before slim-line motors and allowed the motor into the cab, so a start was made to

cover up the hole.

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30thou Plastkard was used to bring the back-head level with the white metal tabs either side. Next to make the covers for the rear driving wheels.

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More done to the cab after removing the lower black piece of plastic which of course would have fouled the wheels! First a floor was put in place.

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Then inner wheel splashers were built up from Plastikard and welded in place.

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Then the supplied back-head was put in place to see what the fit was like.

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The cab and back-head have received a couple of coats of paint.

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I'll mask it off when I get round to painting the loco once the weather warms up (like my 1P). The motor has been fitted with its worm and screwed to the gearbox. A bit of filing had to be done to the body insides so the motor would fit. Mitsumi motors fit across the diagonal of the gearbox so clearance is tight in the firebox/boiler. That's all I can do now until the wheel sets arrive.

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Another kit arrived in the post this morning, an original Jidenco Models MR Kirtley 4-4-0 Tank. I'm sure Buxton would have had at least one in its time and they lasted until 1935. There was no exploded diagram with the instructions so if anybody has one it would help. There appears to be bits missing but without a parts list or diagram it's impossible to tell.

 

Anyway the chassis was straight forward.

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That's all I can do until I get the wheels, gearbox and motor.

 

The footplate, so far, went together well too.

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On 02/02/2021 at 18:50, Rowsley17D said:

The cab and back-head have received a couple of coats of paint.

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I'll mask it off when I get round to painting the loco once the weather warms up (like my 1P). The motor has been fitted with its worm and screwed to the gearbox. A bit of filing had to be done to the body insides so the motor would fit. Mitsumi motors fit across the diagonal of the gearbox so clearance is tight in the firebox/boiler. That's all I can do now until the wheel sets arrive.

You can solder a Mitsumi motor onto the gearbox .. I didn't think you could but Mike Edge convinced me to try it.. just use acid flux- cleaning the motor casing where you want to solder it.. then a quick welding job.. et voila!   And the two Wills 4F with the soldered motors work well.

 

Baz

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5 minutes ago, Barry O said:

You can solder a Mitsumi motor onto the gearbox .. I didn't think you could but Mike Edge convinced me to try it.. just use acid flux- cleaning the motor casing where you want to solder it.. then a quick welding job.. et voila!   And the two Wills 4F with the soldered motors work well.

 

Baz

 

Thanks, Baz. John @cctransuk has kindly sent me instructions on how to mark out the gearbox front, so I'll try his way first when I work out which High Level box I need.

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On 08/01/2021 at 18:47, Rowsley17D said:

 

Hi Jack, the motor is a Mitsumi with a High Level Road Runner 1:30 gearbox.

Hi,

 

I was updating a rubbish motordrive in a 4-4-0 and a note of caution, the Mitsumi fouls 00 wheelsets if the motor is fitted to a standard Roadrunner driving the front axle and the motor is facing rearwards. The motor must be located clear of the wheels. 
 

Thankfully, I re-used the Mashima 1224 that was originally fitted, it was the gearbox that was carp.

 

THANKS

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45 minutes ago, Jack Benson said:

Hi,

 

I was updating a rubbish motordrive in a 4-4-0 and a note of caution, the Mitsumi fouls 00 wheelsets if the motor is fitted to a standard Roadrunner driving the front axle and the motor is facing rearwards. The motor must be located clear of the wheels. 
 

Thankfully, I re-used the Mashima 1224 that was originally fitted, it was the gearbox that was carp.

 

THANKS

 

In my 4-4-0 the motor drives the front wheels but faces the front so I can pack the firebox with lead and get weight above the drivers. In the Belpaire 0-4-4 tank  it drives the rear wheels with the motor facing back, plenty of room in the tanks for lead. Unsure about the Kirtley tank until I get further into the build.

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More done to the Kirtley tank. There's going to be a nice space in the bunker for a decoder and stay-alive. The cab and bunker were very tricky to get square there are 12 sections of brass to this part.

 

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I think it must have been a Friday afternoon when it was decided where the holes for the boiler fittings should be located.

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Edited by Rowsley17D
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3 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

I think it must have been a Friday afternoon when it was decided where the holes for the boiler fittings should be located.

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Or after a Friday night in the pub (remember those...).

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Although it was staring me in the face, it was only this morning I realised  part of the footplate would get in the way of the front driving wheels and that most of the front securing nut needed filing away so the boiler would sit horizontally. None of this in the instructions of course.

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Then I realised the cutouts for the driving wheels were 4mm too narrow. Again no mention. So out came the slitting disc. The wheels were dispatched today so a wagon wheel set was used to make sure there's plenty of room.

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I'm glad I didn't fit the splashers when instructed as these would have needed taking off. They were fitted after the surgery. The boiler isn't soldered on yet.

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With little reference to making the bogie except "make up the bogie" there appears only 4 pieces on the fret from which to make it - the side frames and 2 bits of rivet detail!

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I had an old 2P bogie in the "come in handy" box so I de-soldered the stretcher from that. The wheels came which fouled the boiler at the front so a piece of scrap brass etch on top of the chassis lifted it off. At least it's looking the part. I've had a great deal of help as to what goes where from @MarkC as he built one a number of years ago. I've put some square weights in the boiler for now which leaves space in the boiler for more. I thought I might have to have the motor facing forwards into the boiler space but I remembered a small Mashima motor I had for a failed 009 engine and it fits nicely into the firebox space without interfering with the back-head. It's beginning to look something like now.

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The outside cranks arrived today, so the coupling rods were made up. The big ends were not wide enough to take the Markits deluxe crankpin nuts, so they were drilled just to go over the screw threads of the crankpins. Without any opening up of the holes in the rods there was no binding from the off which I was very pleased about.

 

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Next to fit the motor and try it under power, then I'll remove the wheels and paint the chassis so I can do the brakes.

Edited by Rowsley17D
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Back to work on the Class 483 as the wheels arrived from Scale Link (still waiting for the Markits' ones to show up). Thanks to a suggestion by @Barry O I soldered the gearbox to the motor as I couldn't use @cctransuk 's idea as the box had already been soldered up. I'll try that next time when High Level get round to sending me my order - I've been told it will be quite a while.  Soldering the box to the motor was easier than I thought or just beginner's luck. The rods were sweated together and the crank pin holes on the powered drivers made a good fit while those on the other drivers were opened out until there was no binding. With the weather warming up it might be possible to prime the engine.

 

The two 2Ps together.

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Back to work after day surgery to remove a lesion from my lower leg and a couple of days with said leg "up". A bit more more has been done to the Kirtley tank. The plumbing has been completed with help from Markits' bits and the handrails. The firebox top sand box was made from plastic bits as there were no parts in the kit to make this distinctive feature. The cab roof is plonked on as I want to detail and paint the cab inside before it's fixed down. I may have to remodel the platforms as the outside cranks are going to foul the walls in places. Awaiting High Level gearbox before much more can be done i.e. the brakes and rodding.

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Back to the 1532 Class and as the weather has warmed up, I was able to get a couple of coats of Halford's Etch Primer on to the engine.

 

 

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As part of the snagging work, the firebox front has been refitted and the lamp iron straightened!

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Fine dry and reasonably warm weather has meant that I can get the Halford's Matt Black out.

 

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Now to find a suitable Buxton (aka Derwent) shed (20) number. The wheels will be treated with black marker pen.

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A bit more done to the Johnson 0-4-4T which I have put into the 2228 class. It still needs more work, couplings, number and shed plates and a suitable decoder once it has been run in. 1421 was a Buxton engine as was sister 1420 both of which received Belpaire boilers and motor fitted for the Millers Dale turns.

 

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On 12/02/2021 at 19:16, Rowsley17D said:

The outside cranks arrived today, so the coupling rods were made up. The big ends were not wide enough to take the Markits deluxe crankpin nuts, so they were drilled just to go over the screw threads of the crankpins. Without any opening up of the holes in the rods there was no binding from the off which I was very pleased about.

 

DSCF8113.JPG.c22b162bab5c402135bd134e9e415241.JPG

 

Next to fit the motor and try it under power, then I'll remove the wheels and paint the chassis so I can do the brakes.

Now then,

 

I saw you're from N Yorkshire too, so figured you'd be well suited to provide some advice please!

 

First time builder, using Markits deluxe crankpins.  This is probably a daft question but: do the crankpin nuts/bushes go on with the wider 'brim' to the inside or outside?   Also, do the coupling rods run on the threaded crankpin itself, or do they need to be opened out to fit over the crankpin nut/bush?

 

thanks muchly, appreciate your wisdom here!

Chris

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, Fangio said:

Now then,

 

I saw you're from N Yorkshire too, so figured you'd be well suited to provide some advice please!

 

First time builder, using Markits deluxe crankpins.  This is probably a daft question but: do the crankpin nuts/bushes go on with the wider 'brim' to the inside or outside?   Also, do the coupling rods run on the threaded crankpin itself, or do they need to be opened out to fit over the crankpin nut/bush?

 

thanks muchly, appreciate your wisdom here!

Chris

 

The nut/bush wider brim is to the outside so that it holds the rod in place The coupling rods need the big ends opening out so the the shoulder of the nut goes through them. There's not a lot of metal left on some design of rod big ends so be careful. The rod thickness has to be less than the shoulder length otherwise when you tighten it up everything binds. It's designed so that the rod rotates around the bearing rather than around the crank pin. I make the holes in the rods on the motor driven wheel more or less exact size and open out the rod holes for the other wheels as bit at a time with a 5-sided brooch until there's no binding. That's the theory anyway.

 

In this photo from above

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The furthest wheel has the usual Markits crank pin with a thick washer soldered on. The nearest wheel has a deluxe crank pin. You can see the shoulder holding the rod in place. The pin has yet to be trimmed to length though.

Edited by Rowsley17D
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3 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

The nut/bush wider brim is to the outside so that it holds the rod in place The coupling rods need the big ends opening out so the the shoulder of the nut goes through them. There's not a lot of metal left on some design of rod big ends so be careful. The rod thickness has to be less than the shoulder length otherwise when you tighten it up everything binds. It's designed so that the rod rotates around the bearing rather than around the crank pin. I make the holes in the rods on the motor driven wheel more or less exact size and open out the rod holes for the other wheels as bit at a time with a 5-sided brooch until there's no binding. That's the theory anyway.

 

In this photo from above

DSCF8131.JPG

 

The furthest wheel has the usual Markits crank pin with a thick washer soldered on. The nearest wheel has a deluxe crank pin. You can see the shoulder holding the rod in place. The pin has yet to be trimmed to length though.

Many thanks for that, much appreciated!

Chris

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