Craftsman Models 1F 0-6-0 Build

[animotion]

I think most modellers would agree that they have kits that are gathering dust and waiting for the fairies to magically put them together in the middle of the night. Unfortunately this will never happen and unless you have deep pockets to pay to get a professional modeller to build them for you they will end up on eBay or you do it yourself. My only etch build has been a 51L LNWR carriage truck and box van and I was pleased enough with the results to think about tackling a loco. As I plan to build a joint GWR and MR layout my kits are a representation of those two companies. A good loco kit to start with I have been told is the Craftsman Models MR/LMS 1F 0-6-0T which I will embark on. I will add some 3D printed detailing to the loco that does not come with the kit which might also replace some of the castings that could be improved on. The Johnson boiler backhead did not come with the kit and I will either use an existing 3D printed one that I developed for a Cambrian loco or design one for the loco. No doubt along the way I will make a few mistakes and viewers will point out better ways of assembling parts of the kit and constructive criticism will be welcomed. If I can do a reasonable job then hopefully other first timers will not be put off assembling those etched kits languishing in their cupboards. The first part of the build will be the superstructure then the chassis.

[animotion]

Having started to put together this kit I realised my soldering skills were a bit scratchy as can be seen in (fig).1

1.

The solder joint for the footplate and valances is not as clean as I had hoped but it has done the job. The one problem I was having was getting solder to stick to the tip of the soldering iron, I’m using 60/40 Tin/lead alloy and telex soldering flux. It turned out that the tip was dirty and needed retinning and with the help of some useful Youtube videos on how to do this I now have a fully functional soldering iron tip. The most tricky part was soldering the valance to the footplate that did not come right to the edge of the footplate. I used a piece of card that I wedged between the side of the valance and the aluminium angle to insure that there would be a step between the valance and footplate. Bending up the splashers to form a right angle on the footplate was not as easy as I thought it would be and this would have been made easier if I had done this before adding the valances but it would have made adding the valances more difficult. Now that I had sorted out my soldering tip I added the 8BA nuts to the footplate and the solder flowed the way I wanted it to. Now as you can see the nut at the smokebox end needs to be moved over slightly to accommodate the smoke box front tab but by judging the size of the nut I will have to shave a bit off the tab for it to fit (fig.2).

2.

For the next I will probably embark on is assembling the boiler but haven’t decided how I am going to solder the seam; do I just solder the bottom of the seam or cut a thin strip of brass and resistance solder over the seam inside the boiler. I think the second method would give a stronger joint. The next job would be attaching the smoke box inner and outer wrappers, (fig.3)

3.

& drawing numbers 25&27 to the boiler. Do I just solder the bottom of the inner wrapper to the boiler or try and solder all the way round the rapper ? How do I solder the smoke box wrapper, (fig.4),

4.

onto the inner rapper? I am modelling a Johnson loco that did not have rivet detail on the smoke box although the kit is for a Johnson loco there are etched rivet details on the wrapper. I suspect these can be sanded down before the wrapper is rolled.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 2, 2021 by animotion

[animotion]

Getting back into the hang of this soldering now. Decided to use the liquid flux instead of the paste as it seems to give better results. The boiler has now been soldered at the seam (fig.5)

5.

which got me thinking how I was going to do this as it can be a bit tricky making sure the seam comes together correctly and then holding it to solder. There were two methods I had in mind, one was the traditional way of doing it with a soldering iron and soldering at the seam or resistance soldering. In the end I opted for resistance soldering by sweating a tined piece of nickel silver to the inside of the seam. I felt this would give me a stronger joint. In order to do this I needed to turn a piece of brass (fig.3)

3.

that was just under the inside boiler diameter. This was clamped on the vice with the etched boiler inserted over the brass with the tined nickel silver under the seam. A piece of paper was inserted under the nickel silver, the seamed closed and resistance soldered (fig.4).

4.

I was happy with the results and the joint is holding. The kit came with an etched riveted smoke box rapper (fig.1)

1.

that needed rolling. I wanted a Johnson smoke box without the rivets so I filed them off then turned the part using the non riveted side as the outside. It would have been a lot easier if the rivets had been press out ones then there would have been no filing involved. To accompany the smokebox I needed a Johnson smokebox door which did not come with the kit and so I had to turn one (fig.6).

6.

Not so difficult as I thought it would be and all it required was a large HSS toolbit to shape the end of the correct diameter bar. The toolbit was packed up on the cross slide until it was the correct height then held by hand to turn the radius (fig.2).

2.

Having done these jobs I would be interested to know what modellers preferences are to solder paste as apposed to tinning when it comes to resistance soldering and anything they may have done differently to the way I have done it.

[Izzy]

These are nice basic kits that go together well. A good base for extra detailing to taste. I no longer model MR, not for quite a long while, and so no longer have any applicable reference material, books etc, but did these ever come with Johnson dogged smokebox doors? I alway thought they were the clamped variety as in the kit. The G5 belpaire boilers were only fitted post 1919 and with clamped doors AFAIK.

[MarkC]

As with the Craftsman 0-4-4T, I've built a couple of these, a LONG time ago. They are sadly missed - a really good starter kit, in my opinion.

 

I did mine as round top boiler half-cabs, as I was modelling the 1907 period.

 

Enjoy the build

 

Mark

 

 

[animotion]

I have the four volumes on Midland locos and volume three Irwell Press book on Midland locos, so not short on reference material. There was quite a variety in the builds on these depending on what period you are modelling. I'm doing a pre 1906 build with a half cab so I will need to alter the kit to suit. I will be adding 3D printed parts to the build and will probably dispense of most of the castings as they are not very good. I have a turned Johnson chimney and will turn the safety valve and whistle. I might regret it when it comes to the painting and lining but the whole build going to be a learning process for me.

Edited January 2, 2021 by animotion