RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted May 28, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 28, 2021 2 hours ago, JCL said: (@chris p bacon did tell me what this was called, but it escapes me) Flaunching......pay attention at the back boy... 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGO Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 Interesting, that's a lot of chimneys, and would suggest 2 upstairs and 4 downstairs hearth's, which would suggest two waiting rooms 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted May 29, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 29, 2021 6 hours ago, chris p bacon said: Flaunching......pay attention at the back boy... All I can say is I've been listening to "The Unbelievable Truth" on Youtube and I've found out I've lost 4m brain cells since I was 35. At least I think they said that, I can't quite remember. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted June 4, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 4, 2021 I've finished the resin part of the station. You can see on the inside right a brace that keeps that right-hand wall vertical, but other than that there aren't any braces. I've done an approximation of the braces that I've seen on other modellers locos and wagons. After 15 hours, for a first print, the results, while unusable, aren't too bad (if you see what I mean). Except for the fact I forgot to put supports at the bottom of the porch (easily remedied), the front looks pretty good. The back - not so much. I've cleaned and sanded the build plate back to flat, and I'll check the settings and beef up that corner and separate the chimney pots and flaunch before printing again. I just misspelled flaunch, and found out that faunch (US) is to display angry excitement. You learn something new every day. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGO Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Your last example is exactly the reason I try to break up my buildings into smaller sections, that way a bad print is only one part needing to be redone not the entire structure, that said it does mean more work involved in creating joints that can be hidden so perhaps it takes equally long in the end 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted June 5, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2021 (edited) I did think about it, but was too eager to give it a go. It went wrong within the first 30 minutes, so I’m going to set it off again today, and then hang around for an hour. If it messes up again, I’ll split it up this evening. Looking at resin volume, it cost $3 (about £2 I think), later, out of idle curiosity, I’ll see if Shapeways will accept it and find out how much it would cost on there. Edited June 5, 2021 by JCL 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted June 7, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2021 Interesting, on Shapeways, it's $90 in that grainy material, $609 in fine detail plastic and $80 in sandstone. Unfortunately I couldn't get a price in platinum. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted June 7, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2021 In the end, I thought I'd give the print another go almost as-is. The two changes I made were to remove the chimney pots, and to increase the base lift height from 1mm to 1.2mm. Doing this increased the print time from 12 hours to 17 hours, but it came out a lot better. I'm not bothered about the first 1mm as that will be hidden in the scenery. Anyway, all was going well, I washed it down and attacked it with the air compressor to clean it off. Unfortunately I hadn't thought too deeply about that porch. The bleedin' thing was a tiny canister of resin, and as soon as I lifted the house off the plate, the sun came out from behind a cloud, it poured out of the porch, and parts of the building were covered in the resin that cured immediately! Luckily, most of the affected bits are at the bottom of the building, so I might get away with bit of judicious gardening. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 4, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 4, 2022 (edited) Bit of a funny year, last year. I've hardly been on here at all, and when I have, it's been pretty much just a quick dip in and out from time to time. This is the first time I've looked at this thread for a long time, and had to do a search for it! On that, I've changed the name of this thread so I can start it up again. Now it'll be more of a .Jason's adventures in 3D printing' thread. Since I last wrote on here (or the blender for buildings thread, thanks for the message on there @monkeysarefun), I've bought an Ender 3 v2, and I've been getting to know it. To be honest, at the moment I'm enjoying printing without having to deal with resins and such. I've not done too much, but I'll start putting things on here as I try to get to the bottom of what it, and the Mono X, can and cannot do. And if anyone reads this and thinks there are better ways to do things, I'd be very happy to take on other people's thoughts and ideas. Edited March 4, 2022 by JCL 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulaDoesTrains Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 If you need any inspiration as to what can be achieved with an FDM printer perhaps look at John Warner's YouTube Channel "Piccadilly Model Railway". He's done some fantastic modelling using a stock Ender 3 V2, most of it in 2mm. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 4, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 4, 2022 (edited) Thanks Paula, I'll have a look this evening. update - I couldn't help myself and had a search through the videos Edited March 5, 2022 by JCL 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 Be interested to know how it handles brick walls. My mortar gaps are .2mm, would it be able to define indivdual bricks that close together? Just asking because my model buildings are getting more ambitious to the point that I can no longer print a wall in one piece on my Saturn. I have been going will I wont I on getting a Jupiter but if FDM printers can do brick walls with defined bricks that might be my plan B, and have my resin printer(s) do the high details bits. Case in point my current work in progress, Mudgee Station in western NSW has wall sections that at 220mm might just squeak in on the Saturn if I angle them cleverly, but otherwise I'll need to print them in 2 parts and have an annoying join. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold simonmcp Posted March 5, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2022 To get bricks to come out with enough definition you might need a 0.2mm nozzle which dramatically increases the print time. I tried, admittedly with a cheap Wanho Clone printer, and a 0.4mm nozzle and the details disappeared. Biggest tip for greater detail is to slow down the print speed. To get all the options in Cura, shown in the Piccadily video, you will need to change the settings options (sorry can't remember exactly where and I'm on my phone and not at the computer so can't look). 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 5, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2022 (edited) Hi there, haven’t got to bricks yet, but I can tell you I’ve been looking at wagons, and I’ve been able to print the planks individually without any change. Here’s a 4mm scale Great Northern pedigree bull van. If you look, you can see some layer lines, but not nearly as many as I thought, and for me, it passes the 3ft rule. It also bounces when you drop it . I was surprised the lamp hooks came out, and they are proud of the body. For ease of painting, I’m thinking of printing the clerestory at the top separately. it’s been undercoated, and given a brush of Vallejo Fire Red. The fruit can is an earlier one, I originally looked at @woko’s exceptional model, and then decided to do my own so I could change things to suit the printer. This time, after undercoating, it was given a coat of sandy brown before the fire red. I think the colour is a closer match to what I was looking for. I still have a few things to work out on this, but bear in mind nothing was sanded. I’m still working out printing the underframe. When I print this again, I won’t include the footboards and brake lever, and I’ll support the bottom better so it doesn’t warp slightly. In real life, at least for me, the warp isn’t too noticeable. Both models were printed with .12mm layer height. Thanks for the info Simon. I only have .4mm nozzles at the moment. What’s your experience working with .2mm rather than .4mm? Edited March 5, 2022 by JCL 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 5, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2022 @monkeysarefun, would you like me to test print a bit of one of your walls? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold simonmcp Posted March 5, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2022 Hi JCL, I haven't printed with a 0.2mm nozzle but a German here https://www.stummiforum.de/t171433f180-M-glichkeiten-mit-einem-D-FDM-Drucker-W-rstchenleger.html uses one in his printer and gets amazing results. I only have a cheap Aldi 3d printer badged as Balco but if I slow it down to 10mm sec print speed and use 0.1mm layer height I can get some quite good results. I printed the hut in so many separate parts to make painting it easier. I used 100% infill on all the parts as well. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulaDoesTrains Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 A smaller nozzle will give you better detail in the XY plane but not really in the Z, which is dictated by layer height and even large nozzles can print at a small layer height. Having said that, I've fitted one of my printers with a 0.3mm nozzle. I've not printed much though it yet, just a few speed restriction signs, but they did come out crisper than previous attempts with the 0.4mm nozzle. @JCLthose wagons are excellent. I wouldn't have guessed they'd been printed on an FDM printer. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 3 hours ago, JCL said: @monkeysarefun, would you like me to test print a bit of one of your walls? Thats very kind of you. When I get a chance I'll find a smaller one and make sure I rescale it (I design in Sketchup at 1000 times final print size to overcome issues Sketchup has with small arcs) before sending it 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 7, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2022 (edited) Hi Simon, they look like great results. One thing I do have it time, and my prints take about 50% longer on my profiles than they do on stock. That pedigree cattle body prints overnight. I’ve been on that German site for hours now. The man is a machine - and the quality is amazing. There is a lot of information on there, and while he’s obviously at the top of his game, hopefully I’ll be able to use some of what he’s doing. The first step is that I’ve sent off for some .2mm and .3mm nozzles and the CR Touch bed auto leveller. @PaulaDoesTrains, when using the finer nozzle, did you have to make many tweaks to the settings? For anyone that’s interested, using this link will translate the 75 page thread into English. https://www-stummiforum-de.translate.goog/t171433f180-M-glichkeiten-mit-einem-D-FDM-Drucker-W-rstchenleger.html?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp cheers jason Edited March 7, 2022 by JCL 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 7, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2022 And here’s an interesting quote from Gerhard Quote Hello Bernd, I cannot comment on the Dremel printer. But in general I can only recommend a printer where you can use nozzles with different diameters. I work almost exclusively with my models with a diameter of 0.25mm. With larger diameters, fine details such as rivets (diameter 0.3mm) etc. may not come out. For large smooth parts like floors for the buildings, I use a 0.4mm nozzle. About the bricks: I "wall" the bricks like a craftsman. I created a brick library. So I then add appropriate sizes. Here I work with multiple copies and patterns. But there are other options too. My joint width is 0.3 mm. The bricks protrude 0.2 mm from the wall. My brick size is 2.8x1.3x0.8mm. With a joint width of 0.3mm, you can still see the bricks from a greater distance. But that's a matter of taste. I hope that I could help you a little. Greetings Gerhard 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 7, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2022 I started off a variant of the wagon I showed above. This time I’m having a go at .1mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle. It’s 4h27m in, and has 2h40m to go. Also thought I’d Try the Cura supports, rather than doing my own. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulaDoesTrains Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 8 hours ago, JCL said: @PaulaDoesTrains, when using the finer nozzle, did you have to make many tweaks to the settings? I've created custom Cura profiles for the different nozzle sizes. The main thing is to set the line width. I've installed the .3mm nozzle on my Kingroon KP3S (my Ender 3 Pro will retain a larger nozzle and will be used for structural/utility prints). Initially I had the line width set to 0.3mm but the results were worse than I was getting with the 0.4mm nozzle. I increased the line width to 0.32mm and hey presto I'd got the detail back. I suspect that 0.3mm isn't an exact multiple of the X/Y resolution (likely 0.04mm) that was confusing the printer. Also the layer height shouldn't exceed 70-75% of the nozzle diameter. I tend to stick to the recommended multiples of 0.04mm for my layer height. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woko Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 On 05/03/2022 at 20:05, JCL said: Hi there, haven’t got to bricks yet, but I can tell you I’ve been looking at wagons, and I’ve been able to print the planks individually without any change. Here’s a 4mm scale Great Northern pedigree bull van. If you look, you can see some layer lines, but not nearly as many as I thought, and for me, it passes the 3ft rule. It also bounces when you drop it . I was surprised the lamp hooks came out, and they are proud of the body. For ease of painting, I’m thinking of printing the clerestory at the top separately. it’s been undercoated, and given a brush of Vallejo Fire Red. The fruit can is an earlier one, I originally looked at @woko’s exceptional model, and then decided to do my own so I could change things to suit the printer. This time, after undercoating, it was given a coat of sandy brown before the fire red. I think the colour is a closer match to what I was looking for. I still have a few things to work out on this, but bear in mind nothing was sanded. I’m still working out printing the underframe. When I print this again, I won’t include the footboards and brake lever, and I’ll support the bottom better so it doesn’t warp slightly. In real life, at least for me, the warp isn’t too noticeable. Both models were printed with .12mm layer height. Thanks for the info Simon. I only have .4mm nozzles at the moment. What’s your experience working with .2mm rather than .4mm? Looks good Sir, however I think you can't beat Resin printers for detail on these wagons chap, but breaking the wagon into as many separate parts as possible often helps to get better prints too 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted March 8, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2022 @woko, hi feller, I agree, by definition the resin printers will be better, but I think it depends on how much detail is acceptable and what you're looking to do.. The wagon is currently broken down into body sides and ends, roof, underframe, and brakes. The brake lever would need to also be separate as that's the thing that is creating the blobs on the photo above. New filament arrived today, so my light blue phase is finally over. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted April 19, 2022 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 19, 2022 Morning all I've been working on something on and off for quite a while with @twiggyforest2 and @chris p bacon. It's an 00 gauge GNR L1 (LNER R1) 0-8-2T that was designed for suburban trains but was found to be unsuitable. It was subsequently sent up to Yorkshire on coal train duties. I'm tweaking a couple of things, but it's all but done now. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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