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Hunslet Engine Works in 7mm Scale


Andy Ross
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IMG_1078.jpg.e996f43b3cfdebc7121f9dddf788b913.jpg

 

I know It needs painting first bit I added a wood top top to one of the benches to see how it looks. It makes a massive difference. looks just like my old bench. I have some white metal vices to fit to these so they will look great right down the sides of the erecting shop. 

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I have done my second 3d drawing fro printing. This time the exhaust silencer for the Bord Na Mona loco. 

 

Innocentman has again printed it along with the aIr filter housing it looks really good. There are a few more items to draw like head lights and some bits for the drivers seat but if I can crack those it makes this look really good for updating into a kit. 

 

IMG_1084.jpg.48c86a103389323c10b823843bb4f6b9.jpg   

 

 

IMG_1084a.jpg.3df2a4d1762d313c926fc6df2e25795a.jpg

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So I have made two today in the time it took to make the first one. 

 

I need nine in total but I think I have only enough angle to make two more for now.

 

I am very pleased with the Jig and despite the fact the angles are not the same way round it still holds things enough to solder them up.

 

 

IMG_1087.jpg.d2caf7dbdf7738a5297317ab2201f3aa.jpg

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So I have bee trying to finalize the design for the working doors but I was struggling to visualize some of it so went back to the mock up and fitted the plastic doors I had made to see what if anything was going to fowl. 

 

This proved to be useful and there is a definite change needed  to stop the inner and outer doors form catching under the board. 

 

But this seems to be OK now as can be seen in the video below - it will be even better when there is a track for the top of the doors to run in that will keep them apart.

 

 

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So having proved the door mechanism will work and can only be improved once the top track is in place. I have now just completed the drawings for the real doors. 

As you can see from the picture below the doors are built up of pressed panels.  Hopefully the layered up panels will look like the reals ones. 

 

1391864968_TestTrack-Hudswell3.jpg.e3c81cc94e4064409cb4330bccf5d696.jpg

 

As well as the doors the etches will produce the main beam that goes over the doors with the tracks for the top of the doors to run in all built as one unit which should ensure the top of the doors line up with the mechanism below the base board. 

 

They also include the brackets for mounting the motors (for the test then motor was held in place by a big blob of Blue Tack).  

 

I have also included the missing joining plates for the roof trusses. 

 

See PDF files attached. 

 

Erecting shop Side Door Layout Etch Sheet 1-Model.pdf 

 

Erecting shop Side Door Layout Etch Sheet 2-Model.pdf

 

The plan is to get these off to PPD over the weekend. 

 

If this all goes to plan this is another major hurdle cracked. 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
59 minutes ago, sir douglas said:

excellent photo

 

 

 

you probably havent seen the Manchester Central thread then?

 

Thanks for the heads-up - no, I hadn't.... Amazing!!!

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So while I am waiting for the door etches to arrive I thought I would make a start on the working version of the MOD loco. The original in the first page of the thread is for wheeling only and although it still needs some detail adding will always be part assembled . 

 

I am pleased with how the frames came out for these as it all slots together and you can put all the main plates together with out any solder and just a clamp to stop the frame plates bowing out.

 

IMG_1105.jpg.e617d3f270261590283b7ac10494a9cc.jpg

 

 

This all solders up and stays nice and flat and square.

 

The step assembly are not as easy and by the time you have built up four and fitted them you are glad when it is done. 

 

IMG_1120.jpg.28a8fe7836718d8c98797ef28e3c855e.jpg

 

 

IMG_1124.jpg.8375506074749c73ee52fb05ce9fa8ad.jpg

 

You will note the frames have the cut out for the horn guides just as the original one i made. 

To save time and money, I did not want to have to re draw the frames to take axle bushes, so I have drawn some adapter plates that fit into the half etch in the frames which will take the  axle bushes. See plates below.

 

IMG_1127.jpg.4cd2c9aaab5da33b1eb5e3fc17b98f3b.jpg 

 

I fitted these today and you can see below the first set fitted.

 

IMG_1130.jpg.f7d2d2b85cac5e4a4233747b8d5734d9.jpg

 

All being well I will get the bearings and wheels trial fitted. I will then need to see how much of the spring gear I can get in.

 

More photos to follow. 

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So I fitted all the bushes and the wheels and it is all flat and level. With all these separate bits I was not sure it would be.  

 

IMG_1132.JPG.ea4f3ba296089584459285bcce148437.JPG

 

Tried it on my large sheet of Tufnell but the proof was on the club layout 

 

IMG_1135.JPG.971a04cf45df01d28ce59287598d52e2.JPG

 

The coupling rods were drawn to scale including the hole for the bronze bushes and just rescaled for the etching and by chance they are almost spot on for the Slaters bushes. 

 

See videos below. 

 

Hunslet MOD Underframe test 1 - YouTube

 

Channel content - YouTube Studio

 

 

 

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Quite a while back I bought some sound chips to fit to a couple of locos. 

 

The bench has for months been all set up for soldering etches together, but last week I had to put everything away so I completely cleared the deck and washed away all evidence of flux and other nasties from the bench. 

 

So I thought this would be a good time to do something a bit different and took the plunge to take one of my Heljan 05's to bits and have a go fitting the sound. I had a bit of a mishap with a sugar cube speaker with too much glue but then noticed that DC kits did a small round speaker that would fit in the hole behind the radiator grill. So I phoned DC Kits (Charlie) and arranged to pick one up as he is only down the road and the result is shown below.

 

 

 

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Just a bit of an update. 

 

I have now got the etches for the doors but they will have to wait for a while as I have other parts to put together first for a friend for a layout that is going to a show next Easter. 

 

So give me a few weeks and I will hopefully have some working doors to look at. 

 

Andy 

 

 

 

 

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Sorry for not posting any updates for a while. 

 

I have been busy soldering up roof beams for Peter Kirmond's York station project. 

 

So today i have started on the parts for the erecting shop side sliding door assemblies. The etches arrived several weeks ago but they had to be put to one side. 

 

I have spent today cutting all the parts out, cleaning of tabs and riviting. There are five layers in each door panel. 

 

All being well if I get back from Grangemouth refinery early enough tomorrow I will be getting my 100w Iron out to make a start. With pictures to follow. 

 

Andy  

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The week has been a bit hectic including trips to Sites in Scotland and Somerset and one night away. But I did get chance during the week to get the 100w Iron out and have a go putting the 5 layers that make up each door together. 

 

IMG_1294a.jpg.fd9eb320dd25fd3e72357840e5cc06db.jpg

 

I have to say the first door was nothing more than a disaster as can be seen below - the big Iron is all well and good for getting the solder to flow when there are so many layers and mass of material but that amount of heat is also going to start distorting everything especially thin half etched strips and once they have gone they will never go back. 

 

What is annoying is I should of know better from the 10 Years I spent in a fabrication company working with stainless which also does not like lots of heat when welded and if not restrained in jigs and fixtures would set off in all directions. 

 

IMG_1290a.jpg.7067af2c1d08a32b94784822cfd1e062.jpg

 

IMG_1292a.jpg.e7d295023d159cf4aa1c23830ae4b280.jpg

 

The other issue is also soldering it all together as the layers are added there are too many strips of material to solder down. A resistance Iron might work but I don't have one and it is still going to generate too much heat to do so many layers.

 

So were to go from here. As I was ranting at my frustration of how to do this my better half pointed out that sometimes you just cannot solder everything together - why don't I use super glue. This set me thinking - that might work but how do I make sure i get it under all the areas especially on the vertical thin strips. the next thought was double sided Sellotape but would it be strong and permanent enough. I cut a couple of scrap of Nickle Silver and stuck them together with some tape. It appears to work.  This was all well and good but I did not want to mess about with stripes of tape so I obtained some A5 double sided sheets from Hobbycraft and using these I stuck all the layers together. Only using this on the door areas as I will still need to solder the very bottom of the bottom section onto the lead screw cross beam brackets. 

 

IMG_1291a.jpg.22cfa5db319bd395032057d917ce1adb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1293a.jpg.4fce62b9f0a4bc204f6465895c9f8984.jpg

 

As you can see it has worked. The other two doors will be put together in the same way. 

 

I can not see a way to recover the first one so will have to have another set of parts etched next time I have some parts to go to PPD.

 

I will use it as it is to do the set up and prove the doors work with the new upper track, yet to be put together and fitted to the structure.

 

 

Andy 

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On 14/08/2021 at 18:57, Trams and Locos said:

Only using this on the door areas as I will still need to solder the very bottom of the bottom section onto the lead screw cross beam brackets. 

 

I'd experiment with this before placing your next PPD order. You might find that the heat softens the adhesive on the double-sided sheets allowing things to move around. Also, never heat anything that's had cyanoacrylate based superglues on it - the fumes given off are rather unpleasant.

 

Steven B.

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Thank you for this.

 

But the one I need to get apart is the soldered one and the heat this will take will just distort the half etched strips even more and make them even more unusable. 

 

Based on the success of the taped ones I think I have no option other than starting from scratch. 

 

 

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The next job on the doors was to assemble the upper track guide. 

 

In real life this appears to be bracketed off a beam across the door that you can see in the photo below with the pipe running across it. Below the beam is some sort of weather cover which I still need to make for both inside and out - I have the triangular brackets some ware in a box to fit. 

 

369190081_HER1407_glassplate1a.jpg.5bdc4c25b1e6f73284b3d115e92fc396.jpg 

 

So on the outside I thought as I was drawing it that rather than use some beam section it would be better to combine it all together and that way the top of the beam could be extended to include the top of the two tracks. 

 

See the photos below.

 

IMG_1310.jpg.1519c0d52b24e7d98d0bf094fb059d40.jpg

 

In the end this has all come out ok but it was a bit of pain as it it the longest single etched assembly I have put together. 

 

It is not that easy to photo put you can just see the tracks and the brackets from the track to the bottom of the beam in the shots below. 

 

IMG_1312a.jpg.44634b9be659e9febd22f7a6c8197d8c.jpg

 

IMG_1315a.jpg.ce0f56dbf17b43a4ddbf312efb15707b.jpg

 

Before I put any of the stiffeners on I am going to build up the mechanism brackets that connect to the lead screws to the doors. these support the bottom of the doors and if it all works out right the top of the doors should go into the track and everything will be in line.

 

I have discovered another issue with the doors which means the inner two doors need the top bracket moving over one etched sheet thickness as they will clash at them moment as I did not allow for the rivet head that I punched through and I am not filing them off as it will spoil how they look. 

 

More to follow in a few days.  

 

Edited by Trams and Locos
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  • RMweb Gold

It is more than a few days since the last update due to nothing more than frustration. 

 

In a nutshell with the current drive arrangement as it is, it will not work. 

 

As sold the kit includes two guide rods with one guide bearing block per rod. As I needed bearing guides for two frames I thought I could get away with using just one guide bar and it would help with the overall weight of the layout. This was fine with the plastic trial doors but the weight of the etched doors just tip it over the edge from being smooth.  

 

IMG_1318.jpg.4590f49cc414b3a5bba693838ae567ab.jpg

 

The second problem is the free door that is pushed and pulled by the driven door sags on the bearing clearance and this leads to it crabbing and sticking.  

 

When I bought these I could not find the rod guide blocks separately on eBay but I have now, so I have more than enough on order so I can re do the mock up with more support. Yes I will need another temp base board to prove this but I need to be sure I get this working before we move on. I am also going to pull it all closer together.  this will reduce the size of all the brackets and could help with rigidity. 

 

You can see how the free door sags in the pic below. 

 

 

IMG_1317a.jpg.07e34022edd56324d76cb745ccdb5500.jpg

 

On the positive side the have come out better than I thought when put in position so once they are sorted drive wise I will be very please. 

 

If you look at some of the photos of the real door earlier in the thread I they look like the real ones. 

 

Same goes for the inside shots, see below. 

 

IMG_1320a.jpg.ecd3fc58a40eb841ea6847da8a5b9eb7.jpg

 

One thing that has come out ok is the motor mounting bracket assembly - see below.  

 

IMG_1324a.jpg.9e2dacd99a9e08792449eadbfb7bd257.jpg

 

The next task now is to draw the new set up under the baseboard and ask a friend to make a new board and at the same time redraw the brackets and all being well by the time our exhibition come around in October it will be all back together again this time working. 

 

You might wonder why I would show the problems on here and not just wait until it is all resolved before posting. The thing is that this is such a big project and we are doing things with this that I don't believe have been done before and I think it is important to show all the learning processes we are going through which could help others with unusual projects. 

 

Andy R

 

Edited by Trams and Locos
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Hi Andy,

Please keep posting. Showing problems (and solutions) is a help to everyone. 

I have been know to write articles showing problems encountered in a build. We all learn by our mistakes and those of  others.

It is encouraging when 'proper engineers' hit snags - maybe there is hope for us mere mortal non-engineers who keep bodging along.

Lofty

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Just a quick update. 
 

Just placed order for new etches. 
 

This includes the re designed inner two doors and all the mechanism brackets to accommodate the additional guide bar and bearing blocks.

 

With a bit of luck I should have all the parts to rebuild the complete door assembly in time for our show (Leeds grammar school 23rd, 24th October) along with the rest of the display. 
 

 

Andy

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So while I am waiting for parts for the modified doors I have got on with some other bits. 

 

IMG_1350.jpg.f3caff5767c6c305b1911627b2f9c920.jpg

 

Built up three of my stillage kits and a set of lifting brackets for the second MOD loco (the one that is going to work - there is some video of the underframe above). 

 

IMG_1351.jpg.9400145e782536280fc2d452a341c8f7.jpg

 

this is the cab for the same loco coming together - it all slots together to solder and then you file off the excess that formed the slots - soldered form the outside so it leaves a very fine bead of solder on the inside joints and it easy then to remove the excess on the out side - the corners will have the small radius filled on. 

 

Don't forget if you want to see the display including the working cranes, loco projects, Hunslet photo display etc., please come along to the Leeds Model Railway Society CIO exhibition at Leeds Grammar School  23rd and 24th October.  

 

 

Andy

 

 

 

 

 

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