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Alex's Workbench - Southern Region & Other Projects


A.R.
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15 hours ago, A.R. said:

Let me know if you'd like to see any pictures of the chassis/build/details etc. 

 

 

Lovely job. Yes, I'd certainly be interested in the chassis.

 

Did you go rigid, or compensated in some form?

 

What minimum radius did you design/build for?

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6 minutes ago, 97xx said:

 

Agree fully re usefulness of the circles - like target shooting with diopter sights, where the eye has a natural ability to 'centre' circles within circles.

 

All I would add is that once punched, it's the Devil's own job to persuade the drill to another place...!

 

Don't try to move the drill, use the punch again at an angle to drift the mark across before drilling.

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5 hours ago, 97xx said:

2. Optical centre punch

See pic below. At the outset, let me say it's not ideal for small items, but I have used it on chassis sides. Probably obvious how it works but:

(a) Place brass holder over hole (my 'not ideal' comment is because the holder is ca. 3/4" dia)

(b) Insert perspex alignment plug and look down it (the shoulder gathers light so you can see the hole area 'illuminated')

(c) Align the etched cross-hair on plug with precise hole centre

(d) Hold brass holder, withdraw perspex plug, and insert hardened punch

(e) Tap and you're done.

Sometimes, with small items I take the Perspex plug out and then put it back in again. If it's still pointing at the right place, I know that the base is properly seated and isn't going to move when I remove the plug a second time and swap it with the punch.  Possibly this is me being a bit over cautious, but it seems to reduce the number of errors I get

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Basically as well as vaccines the government ought to be providing every household in the UK with a pillar drill. If elected I will…

 

94000 looks absolutely fantastic. I love what-if designs.

Edited by BusDriverMan
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Hi all, 

 

Thank you for all your contributions, I have found it really useful to read through all your comments around drilling holes, marking holes etc. Thanks also for the kind comments about 94000. I have attached some photos of the chassis, and one of the cab detail which, whilst not massively accurate, is scratchbuilt. Some details:

  • Mashima motor with High-Level gearbox, 40:1 reduction
  • Comet valve gear and cylinders
  • The chassis has been made to go around a minimum of third radius curves (my future layout shouldn't have any less than this)

5.jpeg.fb2cff8eb9542e8419b2a7dbb0abedc4.jpeg6.jpeg.edda6a6b4dcaaab2e580422115d6b4b3.jpeg7.jpeg.6d92e717b612fba0322cde8e55a1911a.jpeg8.jpeg.34adb18d30a4de452bcacab6dc9d0cb6.jpeg

 

This evening, I have cut the frames for the Maunsell 4-8-0 and I am pleased with how they have come out. These have simply been cut with a piercing saw and then sanded to a shiny finish and washed to hopefully aid soldering the frame spacers/axle bearings. 

2080237800_Frames1.jpeg.924b2cfea35023d72b0931f9c6d53468.jpeg

 

I look forward to hearing your thoughts. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Alex 

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11 hours ago, A.R. said:

 

  • Mashima motor with High-Level gearbox, 40:1 reduction
  • Comet valve gear and cylinders
  • The chassis has been made to go around a minimum of third radius curves (my future layout shouldn't have any less than this)

 

Thanks Alex.

 

Wasn't sure whether this is too detailed to post and I should PM you, but as a first-time chassis builder I'm very interested in the practical issues of minimum radius. Third radius is about 505mm? So, seems impressive what your 8-coupled chassis manages.

 

Would you be able to tell me:

  1. What the outside width of your frames plus axle bush is?
  2. What sideplay you've built in/washered for/allowed for on each axle?
  3. The axle spacing?

On the compensated Q1 chassis I have just built this was a bit of a journey of experimentation to ensure it would do 24" radius if needed.

 

I can do all the precise Versine calculations on sideplay but the practical aspects of rails and flanges and B2B seemed to show I'd have to build and test. My answers are:

  1. Frame: 11.5mm (on the two compensated axles), 13.5mm on the rigid axle which has bushes
  2. Sideplay Rigid axle: less than 0.5mm (two 0.25mm washers on a 14.5mm axle)
  3. Sideplay Compensated middle axle: 2.5mm (two 0.25mm washers on 14.5mm axle on 11.5mm frames)
  4. Sideplay Front compensated axle: < 2mm (two 0.5mm washers on ditto)
  5. Axle spacing: 32 and 34mm

I've said 24", but it would appear that mine would also do 'third radius'.

 

Be interested in what others think on issues of sideplay. Maybe I should post separately, so sorry if I'm digging too deep in wrong place.  

 

 

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Evening All, 

 

Thanks for your interest in the chassis @97xx, I will try and get you the details tomorrow evening. I didn't realise there was such a science behind it! 

 

I have managed to solder the axle bearing to the frames, as well as solder the frames together with the first spacers (more will be added as required for bogie mounts etc.) 

1139524213_Chassis1.jpeg.1a7354f496aba79f406a6e2857c2306e.jpeg866802738_Chassis2.jpeg.03ee484b47a8799b9510526dcdc118da.jpeg

 

I also couldn't resist posing the parts together to see what it looks like. I think removing the wheel arches has made it look slightly longer which in turn makes it look quite elegant. 

330284484_Chassis3.jpeg.1599bfc5bc587c02cb93e3d4103dc5f7.jpeg

More to follow soon!

 

Cheers, 

 

Alex 

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Hi All,

 

I am looking ahead to the next project; a Drummond Rebuilt T-14 (which will likely begin alongside the Maunsell project). Probably quite ambitious, but I am planning to build this from scratch, with both the body and chassis to be made from brass. Therefore, I will need some drawings. Does anyone know if there are any drawings available? I have had a search and can't seem to find any!

 

Cheers, 

 

Alex 

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Hello Alex, I came here after seeing your post in Tony's thread.

I have to say your 2-8-2 is absolutely stunning. I've loved this design ever since seeing Ian's one and yours is beautiful.

I'm a big fan of the Maunsell 4-8-0 too, did a little photoshop of it after I saw Matthew's marvellous painting (although in hindsight I should have removed the arches entirely, ah well!).

952447615_SRLNBoiler4-8-01.jpg.76ed26629ee71b1cf842a43178ce7cb7.jpg

 

Will be looking forward to seeing more of your progress.

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Evening All,

 

Thanks for the links and suggestions, I have reached out to the suggested sources and hopefully they will turn up some good drawings. @scots region The online drawing programme I use is called Gravit Designer; its free to use, simple to pick up and quite intuitive so good for quick drawings. 

 

@Corbs Thanks for your post and for finding the thread!  I really appreciate the kind comments! I have seen your photoshop before in the Imaginary Loco thread (which is a favourite of mine) and it looks great, a really useful resource!

 

I have managed to do a few more bits on the Maunsell project over the weekend, focusing on the motion bracket, cylinders and slidebars. This is as far as I can advance on the motion until I get the wheels (should be in the next couple of weeks). 

 

877017882_Chassis4.jpeg.9499afeaf417a85c316b589214b6dbb5.jpeg1838030281_Chassis5.jpeg.26ff5d04c735bfa398d12737a3424885.jpeg

1513304313_Chassis6.jpeg.1bd0378453800f212581c07a52090396.jpeg943946248_Chassis7.jpeg.23bd28a3973dc41fee84c92105485ad8.jpeg

 

I have also primed the tender and given the loco another coat and I think the running plate is now as smooth as it's going to be. 

 

I look forward to hearing your thoughts. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Alex 

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I think my mind has been poisoned by YouTube videos sponsored by sellers of CNC machines… am I right in thinking you're making these chassis (chassises?) using only hand tools? I mean, drilling out the bearing holes with a handheld powerdrill?

 

As someone who lives in a flat, with an assortment of the cheapest household power tools Homebase has to offer, (and a CNC engraving machine purchased off the back of said sponsored videos but probably not suitable for milling brass with precision,) this is quite inspiring.

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Evening All, 

 

Thanks for the comments. To answer your questions: 

 

@313201 The driving wheels will be 20mm by Scalelink. This is the closest to 5'1" that I can find!

 

@BusDriverMan Thank you for your kind comment, you are correct. All my work is hand cut with a piercing saw and finished with files and sandpaper; the only electrical tool I use is a handheld powerdrill. Using a piercing saw is certainly not quick, but it is very satisfying when done! 

 

And to pose a question: I am thinking of ahead to the livery of the Maunsell, what colours would people suggest? I am thinking BR Green or BR Black are the only real options, but I like the bluey hues that are in the original painting!

 

I look forward to hearing your thoughts! 

 

Cheers, 

 

Alex 

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4 hours ago, Player of trains said:

I'm definitely following this, lovely work so far. I cheated a bit with mine and used an 8F and a Schools body carved about a bit. 8HCIbP0.jpg

Hi, 

Thanks for posting that picture, it captures the sleek lines nicely! Firstly, is it N gauge? Secondly, I am interested by the various markings/numbers it has as I don't recognise them! Any more info would be great!

 

Cheers, 

 

Alex

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Thanks! It's OO just posed next to some 009 track, they're the heavy oil haulers on the freelance I'm working on, Isle of Tumm Central Railway 2D-1 class. it started out as a replica of the Southern proposal but now they're Armstrong Witworth locos as I found some remarkably similar machines they built for the Buenos Aries railway, I need to sit down and rebuild them with more Armstrong Witworth hallmarks. 

image.png.a301d6245a789992ea0a619423788416.png

Edited by Player of trains
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The difficulty of center popping and drilling exactly is a strong argument for suspension of some sort.   For an eight coupled compensation is possible.  One has two beams on the rear, with the gearbox between, and a single beam on the front.    It is not too had to do.    I'm in 7mm now and almost everything is sprung.   CLAG would be the source of advice on springing in 4mm.

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Evening, 

 

I have been working on the loco body again recently, adding the the pipes to the side and sorting out the firebox (where the splashers were). This has involved a lot of sanding and it still isn't done yet! But here are some progress photos!

This how the model started, with the square bar behind the smoke deflectors. 

614480775_SteamPipe1.jpeg.83c99cf95b0534a4a85929354b662eaa.jpeg

This was removed and filled with plastic packing pieces. 

393676027_SteamPipe2.jpeg.61c8b0c89ad6eae58b160d3dc50886e8.jpeg

And then covered in filler and sanded back.

783679253_SteamPipe3.jpeg.62837eaf07eab60c8de1501df1964900.jpeg

You can see the pipe here, made out of an old paintbrush. Still filler on show on the firebox, a job for tomorrow evening!

1903910725_SteamPipe4.jpeg.2dd015b373b3f3f9c140a90da52b0bc5.jpeg

I have sanded off lots of the rivets in the process but these will be replaced with transfers (probably N gauge ones as the model had very small ones previously). 

 

Cheers, 

 

Alex 

 

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Looking excellent Alex, only comment I might make is that the steam pipes (between the smokebox and footplating) might be a bit further forwards (unless there is some further work to do) as they would generally enter the valve steam chest in the middle of the valve.
Do you think this would be 4 cylinder (as the Nelson is) or two cylinder?

 

Edited by gz3xzf
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