Sulzer Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 I need to build a small point motor control panel for my layout and would like it to look as neat as possible. Can anyone tell me what options are out there for suitable off-the-shelf enclosures and what the best way might be to print/engrave the track plan onto a piece of acrylic (or other material that's suitable)? I like the look of the MegaPoints Controllers bespoke control panels as shown here on Youtube, however can't afford this at the moment so would rather try and build something similar myself if I can. Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Ron Ron Posted January 5, 2021 Share Posted January 5, 2021 Have a read of this thread from a few months ago.... A few members have cottoned on to using professionally printed Dibond panels, which are a relatively cheap way of getting a pro looking panel facia, which is easy to drill. . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ITG Posted January 8, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) I’m using the dibond option. I created the layout design in Anyrail, and modified it to best present a suitably spaced out graphic to allow for LEDs and push-buttons etc, as obviously the basic defaults of Anyrail graphics may not be most suitable for a panel. I used a local printer but there are internet options if you google. I simply sent the plan as a pdf, and reproduction was excellent. I used modelrailwaysolutions.co.uk for a laser cut ply control panel, and mounted the dibond on top of it. When drilling for LEDs, one needs to cut larger holes in the ply, so that the LED can mount as intended on the dibond. I perhaps should add that I used DCC Concepts Alpha Switch D system to link the panel to my DCC system in the simplest way, which probably works out same ££ as Megapoints, but for me it was worth it. But of course you can use a more ‘conventional’ approach. Ian Edited January 8, 2021 by ITG Add info Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sulzer Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Thanks guys, the examples I've seen look great so going with a Dibond panel. Not sure what I'll build the enclosure out of yet - all of the panels on modelrailwaysolutions.co.uk are out of stock, so might go for a Megapoints enclosure if I can verify that this will accommodate a Dibond panel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff park Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) Do you have access to woodworking tools, specifically a router ? It is vert easy to make a wooden box with grooves for the panel. And cheap Edited January 14, 2021 by cliff park Add last sentence Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sulzer Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 3 hours ago, cliff park said: Do you have access to woodworking tools, specifically a router ? It is vert easy to make a wooden box with grooves for the panel. And cheap My woodworking skills are limited to sawing bits off and screwing them together, and I only have a few basic woodworking tools. Might be time to invest in some new ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Sulzer said: My woodworking skills are limited to sawing bits off and screwing them together, and I only have a few basic woodworking tools. Might be time to invest in some new ones. Its possible to make attractive panels with a saw, drill and screwdriver. Produce a rebate on the top for a manufactured panel by gluing together two pieces of timber of different heights. eg. outer might be 68x15 and inner 46x15 (both common sawn softwood sizes from DIY suppliers). Use a few screws from inside to hold things whilst glue sets. Make the upper gap to be what you want for appearance of the panel. The lower gap is "whatever you get" from the heights of the timber. Bottom panel to protect wiring things can be hardwood or MDF cut to size. When upper panel arrives, it is screwed onto the inner support piece from above (use attractive screws - eg: dome head brass, fit really carefully by using a steel screw first to cut the thread, then remove the steel screw and carefully fit the brass one). The work is all straight saw cuts, and drilling/fitting screws to join together. Care in using a countersink and aligning screws makes a huge difference to appearance. Once built, before fitting panel, sand & round the corners a bit with sandpaper, paint or varnish, and it will look like a "proper job". Yes, a router will cut a grove for a panel, but its an expensive bit of kit, which takes a bit of time to learn to use safely and well. Unless you've got more uses for it, it risks being another "used for 15 minutes before heading to landfill" power tool. In normal times, I'd suggest searching out a tool library (exist in some towns and cities) or a "mens shed" to help with woodwork tools. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliff park Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) This is the profile I make using a router. Obviously the grooves need to be the thickness of the panel at top and ply/hardboard whatever at bottom. Length is perimeter of panel plus extra for mitreing. One end or side is held in by screws, and the cable goes through this side, then that side, panel and cable can all be removed together to work on the panel. Edited January 14, 2021 by cliff park Forgot picture Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sulzer Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 Opted for a simple design with a Dibond fascia and MDF enclosure. It's not very pretty but it works (much to my surprise). More info here if anyone is interested: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveglew Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) If you have a printer, I can recommend self adhesive vinyl sheet. You can make your own panel with ply, thin MDF, dibond, perspex, ally sheet etc. Print your mimic diagram (I use Anyrail and PowerPoint for the artwork) onto plain paper and tape to panel. Drill everything through the paper template. Remove paper and apply vinyl in its place. Using a sharp knife cut the holes in the vinyl to match and then attach switches leds etc. I hold leds in place with a dab of superglue. I would also recommend sealing the vinyl print with spray matt lacquer first, just as you would for card buildings. Edited March 7, 2021 by Daveglew 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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