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Bachmann Coaches - NEM Couplings loose


Peter749
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On the layout I have built it has gradients to connect the upper and lower levels.

 

I am finding most tock is running alright but I have a problem with the NEM Coupling  Pockets on the Mk1 coaches

I removed the standard coupling and fitted the "flexible pipe" coupling that slots in to the NEM pockets but they are loose going further in to the pocket than the standard coupling

Running downhill the coaches start to bunch and touch the next vehicle and then derail on a curve

 

I'm running a train of 9 Mk1s but I might have to try shortening the formation or swap back to standard couplings

 

Anyone else had this problem and know of a solution?

 

Thanks

 

Peter

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You could:-

 

.Replace the standard couplings.  The bars will prevent ‘bunching’ or buffer lock.  
.Glue the pipe couplings into the NEM pockets in a suitable position, ensuring that the sideplay of the pockets is not affected. 
.Use different bar-type NEM couplings such as Hornby. 
.Use NEM Kadees. 

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I have also tried using the pipe couplings and find they work fine with some of the Bachmann MK1s, but (for a reason I've never been able to work out) cause problems with others. I have a set of Western Region coaches which I can run all over my layout with no problems, another set where they derail on various points and crossings, and a set of Crimson and Cream MK1s where I can't fit them at all because the pipe just seems too short and the gangway ends touch even on a straight (my layout is all flat). If anyone has had this problem and/or can work out what the problem is I would be very grateful because I have stopped using them because of their unreliability.

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I have my MK1s coupled in sets using the Hornby version of the Roco coupling. You get a pair of these with many Hornby coaches such as the Maunsells. They can be a bit difficult to get to couple up, but once done they stay coupled and I don't have any problems with 8-coach rakes. For the Maunsells I instead use the real Roco couplings which are slightly shorter. 

 

Hornby pack R8220 provides a pack of 10 (5 pairs).

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Most NEM coupling pockets have too much slack in them to hold the chosen coupling in position. My standard solution is to add a plastic packing piece at the same time as introducing the coupling to the NEM box (ie slide it in at the same time). I normally use a piece of clear plastic Peco point  packaging, cut a section to the width of the NEM opening, slide in with the coupler then snip off any visible excess with a pair of Xuron track cutters. I find the thickness of the packing enough to hold the coupling secure but not too tight that it cannot be removed if needs be. 

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I've used the flexible pipe type coupling between a pair of class 20's.

Occasionally the coupling has pushed 'through' the NEM pocket which lead to bufferlocking on curves.

My solution was to hold the coupling in the correct place, then drill a 0.5mm hole vertically through the coupling, immediately in front of the NEM pocket.

A piece of Brass wire was glued in the hole, so it protrudes both sides by approx. 2mm. (enough to press against the top & bottom face of the NEM pocket)

Then painted Black.

 

It keeps the locos at a fixed distance apart, so no bufferlocking.

It keeps the loco & NEM pocket in a standard condition.

They now quite happily run through any track configuration, & have no issue with the (quite steep) incline on the layout.

 

Don't know if it would work on a rake of coaches, but would suggest it's worth a go !

If it doesn't work, just pull out the piece of wire, & you're back where you started, with nothing lost except a few minutes.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

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Are you using paper fold up corridor bellows?

These serve two purposes. They prevent the ends o the coaches touching and they stop daylight showing through. Modellers Mecca used to supply them and Dart Castings do them with the correct etched brass end plates. Easy enough to make your own out of black paper and only take a few minutes. Worth a try. I would try a tiny bit of blue tack to hold the pipes in as a first option.

Bernard

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I use Roco couplers on all my stock. Having experience with Roco and other brands' HO stock, I find that close coupling works very well and looks good. It has been around for some 40 years, but only relatively recently is it fitted to some UK OO scale items. The Bachmann MK1s were "early adopters", but of course, Bachmann got it wrong, because the pockets are too far back and a bit too high for NEM standards. They're also a bit loose.

 

The slimline Roco coupling heads are available in three types: the original Roco ones, the slightly longer Hornby-branded ones, and the Roco height-adjustable ones (cat. no. 40287), which are similar in length to the Hornby ones. I have found that for the Bachmann Mk1 coaches, the Hornby type work well within a rake, and the Roco height-adjustable ones are good for the ends of a rake.

 

For some other coaches, using a mixture of 'short' and 'long' couplers can work; you just have to take care when assembling a rake.

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On 07/01/2021 at 19:18, Phil Bullock said:

Have you looked at the Hunt magnetic couplings? Effectively a solid bar with close coupling.

 

No connection other than a satisfied customer 

I had not seen them before so I will order a pack and see how well they work.

 

Thanks

 

Peter

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On 09/01/2021 at 15:38, Bernard Lamb said:

Are you using paper fold up corridor bellows?

These serve two purposes. They prevent the ends o the coaches touching and they stop daylight showing through. Modellers Mecca used to supply them and Dart Castings do them with the correct etched brass end plates. Easy enough to make your own out of black paper and only take a few minutes. Worth a try. I would try a tiny bit of blue tack to hold the pipes in as a first option.

Bernard

I was just getting the trains running correctly before adding things like bellows but it might be worth a try.

 

Thanks

 

Peter

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On 09/01/2021 at 15:03, Phil Mc said:

I've used the flexible pipe type coupling between a pair of class 20's.

Occasionally the coupling has pushed 'through' the NEM pocket which lead to bufferlocking on curves.

My solution was to hold the coupling in the correct place, then drill a 0.5mm hole vertically through the coupling, immediately in front of the NEM pocket.

A piece of Brass wire was glued in the hole, so it protrudes both sides by approx. 2mm. (enough to press against the top & bottom face of the NEM pocket)

Then painted Black.

 

It keeps the locos at a fixed distance apart, so no bufferlocking.

It keeps the loco & NEM pocket in a standard condition.

They now quite happily run through any track configuration, & have no issue with the (quite steep) incline on the layout.

 

Don't know if it would work on a rake of coaches, but would suggest it's worth a go !

If it doesn't work, just pull out the piece of wire, & you're back where you started, with nothing lost except a few minutes.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

I'm going to get some Hunt Magnetic couplings first and see what happens with them but in the meantime I might modify a few Bachmann "Pipe" couplings as you suggest

 

Thanks Phil,

 

Peter

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4 minutes ago, Peter749 said:

I was just getting the trains running correctly before adding things like bellows but it might be worth a try.

 

If you're using Hornby-Roco couplings or Bachmann's twin-pipe ones then you'll find the corridor ends touch on straight track. I use the Hornby-Roco ones and it can be a bit fiddly to get them to couple up, involving either pushing the couplings together with a coupling pole (ie a thin screwdriver) or lifting the bogies slightly and twisting them.

 

Adding any bellows-type corridor connector will only make this worse and may prevent coupling up at all. 

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On 07/01/2021 at 19:18, Phil Bullock said:

Have you looked at the Hunt magnetic couplings? Effectively a solid bar with close coupling.

 

No connection other than a satisfied customer 

And the first pack I purchased Mk1/Mk2/Pullman Stepped Close Coupling works very well with the train going around the track without any problems

 

Thanks for the info

 

Peter

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