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Bovey Tor


Gedward
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3mt looks the part. A very nicely proportioned loco and one which looks very much at home. 

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I like the whizzy points-controller. One of the unexpected benefits of Covid has been that I converted 15 pairs of points to DCC control, and the Digitrax throttles make that easy - as long as I can recall the number I want! I really must write it all down!

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7 minutes ago, Oldddudders said:

I like the whizzy points-controller. One of the unexpected benefits of Covid has been that I converted 15 pairs of points to DCC control, and the Digitrax throttles make that easy - as long as I can recall the number I want! I really must write it all down!

 

Agree, I struggle to remember with just five points. And I've yet to lay the three-way point at the entrance to the fiddle yard.

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Looking good George. 

 

I may well have missed this but what have you in mind for the platform surface? 

 

Rob. 

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32 minutes ago, NHY 581 said:

Looking good George. 

 

I may well have missed this but what have you in mind for the platform surface? 

 

Rob. 

 

Ha ha, this is such a hot topic at the moment, isn't it. After extensive research, I've decided to try Silicon carbide grit. (220 mesh). Will do some tests and see how that works out. I have the chinchilla dust/sand standing by just in case. :)

 

But before the tarmac goes down. The paving slabs on the platform edge will be done using the same method as the stone walling. I'm using 2mm basswood as a base. That will be sanded down at the front edge to give me a foundation for the 3x2 foot pavers. Then we'll spread a layer of clay down and carve out the pavers into that.

Edited by Gedward
Editing copy and typos
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47 minutes ago, Gedward said:

 

Ha ha, this is such a hot topic at the moment, isn't it. After extensive research, I've decided to try Silicon carbide grit. (220 mesh). Will do some tests and see how that works out. I have the chinchilla dust/sand standing by just in case. :)

 

But before the tarmac goes down. The paving slabs on the platform edge will be done using the same method as the stone walling. I'm using 2mm basswood as a base. That will be sanded down at the front edge to give me a foundation for the 3x2 foot pavers. Then we'll spread a layer of clay down and carve out the pavers into that.

 

 

Standing by. 

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Looking superb @Gedward
Sorry if I missed it  - but did you use DAS for the platform front?
If so, did you mix in some PVA to aid a bit of flexibility or avoid cracking?

I've long thought about carving my own stonework, but I usually end up using plastic card or embossed card etc
As others have said "that way, madness lies" - but done well, it looks so good :) 
i.e. - so what if I end up (even more) mad than I already am? ;) 

Edited by marc smith
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4 minutes ago, marc smith said:

Looking superb @Gedward
Sorry if I missed it  - but did you use DAS for the platform front?
If so, did you mix in some PVA to aid a bit of flexibility or avoid cracking?

I've long thought about carving my own stonework, but I usually end up using plastic card or embossed card etc
As others have said "that way, madness lies" - but done well, it looks so good :) 
i.e. - so what if I end up (even more) mad than I already am? ;) 

 

Many thanks Marc.

 

Ha ha, you did miss it. If you take a walk back to page 9, you'll see how it was done. I tried Das first of all. But like you say, it can result in warping and cracking. I did try mixing it with pva, but still got some serious warpage. So I went with an oil based clay. It's used extensively for sculpting and is called NSP. It comes in different strengths. I used the hard version. Big advantage it doesn't dry out so no warping or cracking.

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1 minute ago, Gedward said:

 

Many thanks Marc.

 

Ha ha, you did miss it. If you take a walk back to page 9, you'll see how it was done. I tried Das first of all. But like you say, it can result in warping and cracking. I did try mixing it with pva, but still got some serious warpage. So I went with an oil based clay. It's used extensively for sculpting and is called NSP. It comes in different strengths. I used the hard version. Big advantage it doesn't dry out so no warping or cracking.

 

Ah, thanks for that @Gedward
I am obviously too lazy to read through the whole thread! lol ;)
In the past, I found that kneading PVA into DAS did indeed help stop cracking, as it dried out

But I think that NSP clay you have used looks a better solution.
The more this layout comes together, with the platform & buildings etc - the better that backscene looks. It's really got a true sense of the area.

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24 minutes ago, marc smith said:

"that way, madness lies"

 

 

I thought that when I saw how the buildings of Pendon are made. But I struggled to get styrene brick sheets to look realistic despite my best efforts. The brick courses always looked too perfect for me.

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9 minutes ago, Gedward said:

how it was done

Would you mind confirming I've understood correctly?

  • Card former made to the desired height and length, and c.1mm deep, in which to lay the clay
  • Glue applied to card backing to stick the clay to?
  • Clay layed into the former and smoothed off to give consistent depth
  • Clay embossed while soft/scribed when hardened
  • Former removed (cut away?) leaving the desired clay-on-card wall
  • Wall glued to card platform framework

Looks seriously good (as does Bovey Tor overall. It's an area I know well and it looks spot on, and the buildings are simply excellent), keen to steal your skills!

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4 minutes ago, Schooner said:

Would you mind confirming I've understood correctly?

  • Card former made to the desired height and length, and c.1mm deep, in which to lay the clay
  • Glue applied to card backing to stick the clay to?
  • Clay layed into the former and smoothed off to give consistent depth
  • Clay embossed while soft/scribed when hardened
  • Former removed (cut away?) leaving the desired clay-on-card wall
  • Wall glued to card platform framework

Looks seriously good (as does Bovey Tor overall. It's an area I know well and it looks spot on, and the buildings are simply excellent), keen to steal your skills!

 

Many thanks @schooner.

 

1 Correct.

2 You don't need glue, NSP Chavant clay is sticky enough.

3 Correct.

4 Clay embossed/carved using anything handy. NSP does not dry, warp or crack. It's like plasticine.

5 Former doesn't need removing as such. If you use 1mm card, you can just cut it away as needed.

6 Correct.

 

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Living here in "sunny" (Ha ! ) Devon I have to say your stonework on the station is absolutely spot on George, as is that of the platform stonework. Well observed.

 

G

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