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47 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

Heyup Shaun, this is all looking very interesting, and glad that you can play in the warm.

 

Al.

Thanks Al. The clouds have parted and it's actually warmed up today, so there's a lot to do outside. 
Life getting in the way of modelling again! The projects are piling up on the dining table and now I want to make a space for the soldering iron too.

 

Regards Shaun

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Well I did manage to get a few jobs done in the attic (quite good really if you could see what we accomplished out side today), had a quick running session and messed about with my phone logging in, uploading and down loading etc.

 

 

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I have some Superglue that if there is a fair amount on the piece, it takes a while to dry and fix.  I breathe on it, slowly.  Superglue sets instantly in the presence of water as it was first developed as you probably know to stick skin together. 

 

If you have a bad cut, small but deep, and you are a long way from a doctor, then stick it together first, then head off.  Mind you, I would use a fresh tube, not one that has been hanging around and covered in muck and dust.

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9 hours ago, ChrisN said:

I have some Superglue that if there is a fair amount on the piece, it takes a while to dry and fix.  I breathe on it, slowly.  Superglue sets instantly in the presence of water as it was first developed as you probably know to stick skin together. 

 

If you have a bad cut, small but deep, and you are a long way from a doctor, then stick it together first, then head off.  Mind you, I would use a fresh tube, not one that has been hanging around and covered in muck and dust.

There is a small tube of super glue in my first aid kit but I was not aware that it was developed for that purpose!

 

regards Shaun

 

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Mrs. Sasquatch and I have become YouTubers. This is because we recently have been provided with a decent internet service out here.  We find it far more entertaining than any television service and have watched almost everything on Netflix and Prime that we like. There's a lot you can learn on YouTube. 

 

It's also a great way to share some modeling as well. I'd like to apologize  for the poor quality of that last video and offer a promise that things will get better.

 

Regards Shaun. 

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2 hours ago, simontaylor484 said:

Is superglue activator available over there Shaun  little spray makes the blue cure quicker

Yes! but... I'm a cheap skate and when I saw the price tag I put it back on the shelf and ran!

 

This whole new layout in the attic affair is being carried out on a budget of $0. Simon.

 

regards Shaun.

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Runny Cyano is also very good for toughening Balsa wood.  If you need a lightweight structure which needs a little more strength somewhere, just run the Cyano onto the Balsa edge.  I used it for strengthening Ailerons on r/c aircraft, so they are strong but still light.  Before putting them on the model and before any covering is added, take them outside {That bit is rather important.}  Hold the Balsa by one corner, so that the side you want to strengthen is away from you and almost vertical, top slightly further away from you than the bottom.  The idea is to apply the glue nozzle, generously, all down the edge, like rain running down, under, sloping wires.  It's wise to wear a long apron, or very old trousers, as it is a lively process and the glue might..... is likely..... will spit like mad and it's hot, too.  Fortunately it spits very small drops which don't actually carry very far, so arm's length is fine, it just isn't worth getting any on the carpet or bits of clothing and keeps you out of any gas release.

 

The glue soaks in and hardens the Balsa a real treat.

 

 

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11 hours ago, jcredfer said:

Runny Cyano is also very good for toughening Balsa wood.  If you need a lightweight structure which needs a little more strength somewhere, just run the Cyano onto the Balsa edge.  I used it for strengthening Ailerons on r/c aircraft, so they are strong but still light.  Before putting them on the model and before any covering is added, take them outside {That bit is rather important.}  Hold the Balsa by one corner, so that the side you want to strengthen is away from you and almost vertical, top slightly further away from you than the bottom.  The idea is to apply the glue nozzle, generously, all down the edge, like rain running down, under, sloping wires.  It's wise to wear a long apron, or very old trousers, as it is a lively process and the glue might..... is likely..... will spit like mad and it's hot, too.  Fortunately it spits very small drops which don't actually carry very far, so arm's length is fine, it just isn't worth getting any on the carpet or bits of clothing and keeps you out of any gas release.

 

The glue soaks in and hardens the Balsa a real treat.

 

 

I don't know if it is available over there but we have a type called Zap-A-Gap. Very trusty stuff that gets drawn into gap by capillary action. It sounds ideal for the process that you're describing J.

 

Regards Shaun.

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8 hours ago, Sasquatch said:

I don't know if it is available over there but we have a type called Zap-A-Gap. Very trusty stuff that gets drawn into gap by capillary action. It sounds ideal for the process that you're describing J.

 

Regards Shaun.

Shaun

 

We can get this in the uk...there are also specialist glues from Loctite which you can use.

 

Baz

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One cheap improvement I would do is making a false edge along the bottom of the shed, like some weeds or grass, to hide the way it is sat on the fiddle yard lines. Then the two lines then could have a buffer stop adding, I would have a pair of those big concrete ones, to hide the fact the line continue under the shed.

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15 hours ago, Sasquatch said:

I don't know if it is available over there but we have a type called Zap-A-Gap. Very trusty stuff that gets drawn into gap by capillary action. It sounds ideal for the process that you're describing J.

 

Regards Shaun.

 

Yes, it's widely available and I often used it on the model planes, as it can, when needed, be used to make a fillet to spread the joint load a bit further - you need all the strengthening aids you can get, given the way they come to Earth occasionally.   :crazy_mini:  I had a Multiplex 5' 6" foam glider where the snakes for the Elevator and the Rudder were glued into suitably sized grooves down either side, light and they added huge rigidity, with the Zap-a-Gap.  Zap have quite a range and were good value, too.

 

For the job I was describing the glue has to soak right into the Balsa grain as quickly as possible, so the Zap-a-Gap doesn't work quite so well for that.  The reason it spits is the rate of flow, which makes for that high volume of glue going off the same time as it hits the damp in the Balsa.  That gets hot and tiny bits vaporise, taking tiny drops of the rest with it, quite spectacular.

 

Re the Crossing video, those gates swing beautifully, are they Servos or direct switch / motor drive, other?

 

 

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6 hours ago, cheesysmith said:

One cheap improvement I would do is making a false edge along the bottom of the shed, like some weeds or grass, to hide the way it is sat on the fiddle yard lines. Then the two lines then could have a buffer stop adding, I would have a pair of those big concrete ones, to hide the fact the line continue under the shed.

Yes! I've actually spent quite a few hours making inset track and will bring that new corner of the layout up to the usual standards. Firstly I had to put up some new lights and there are 4 working signals fitted ready to hook up.

The controls for what use to be a fiddle yard need moving too! Big job that I'll probably have to dismantle thw layout and rewire two boards.

It does need buffer stops and those will have to be scratch built!

 

Thanks for your input, always valued!

 

Regards Shaun. 

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3 hours ago, jcredfer said:

 

Yes, it's widely available and I often used it on the model planes, as it can, when needed, be used to make a fillet to spread the joint load a bit further - you need all the strengthening aids you can get, given the way they come to Earth occasionally.   :crazy_mini:  I had a Multiplex 5' 6" foam glider where the snakes for the Elevator and the Rudder were glued into suitably sized grooves down either side, light and they added huge rigidity, with the Zap-a-Gap.  Zap have quite a range and were good value, too.

 

For the job I was describing the glue has to soak right into the Balsa grain as quickly as possible, so the Zap-a-Gap doesn't work quite so well for that.  The reason it spits is the rate of flow, which makes for that high volume of glue going off the same time as it hits the damp in the Balsa.  That gets hot and tiny bits vaporise, taking tiny drops of the rest with it, quite spectacular.

 

Re the Crossing video, those gates swing beautifully, are they Servos or direct switch / motor drive, other?

 

There is a link below all my posts concerning the crossing, I'm sure you'll find it entertaining.

I didn't know you were into model planes too J.:D

 

There's quite a few super glues in the top door shelf of the refrigerator but I don't think I've made anything from balsa since I was 10 and sliced my left long finger with a Stanley knife in craft class. I had to have 10 stitches and became an instant hit with all the girls. I guess I just don't need to buy any because there's so much scrap wood knocking around!! Although I do fancy getting some dowels to have a go at some decent pine trees for Goathland but then again I could just make my own from poplar scraps and save the gas money!

 

There is a link below all my posts concerning the crossing, I'm sure you'll find it entertaining.

I'll include the link here too, just in case anyone else might have missed it:rtfm:

 

Regards Shaun

 

 

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Quick progress update then...

 

The signal box has been dug out and I think fits the scene a lot better. It needs a better roof and some more detailing.

856022025_Shaunsattic1.16(1).JPG.1b500e3a68bc34cc460c2e92ed779c9b.JPG

 

I had a near escape yesterday with these cheapo (Ikea I believe) lights. While rewiring them to fit above the farmland sections I was called away while testing them. One was upside down and burnt a hole in the $hagpile. Oops!

1034976647_Shaunsattic1.16(2).JPG.71547e5fc392d52fe3f18aaf8ed8f38b.JPG

 

Two ground dolls and two bracket signals. Still playing with all this area, note the signal cabin has moved!

926277481_Shaunsattic1.16(3).JPG.e09806716310a82b2b14195e820abc95.JPG

 

 

 

Here's the two control panels  that need moving (one on each board either side of the joint).

The electrical connectors need moving too.

40292075_Shaunsattic1.16(4).JPG.89e2e0d43f738cc0b0c93d2e623a8b1e.JPG

 

I made the inserts from MDF to fit snug with rebates run on my table saw dado set.

I removed the track pins here to squeeze the track up against the edges and reattached it with pins countersunk in the 2.5 mm thick strips between the rails. The larger sections are screwed in from below and can be removed if necessary. 

964169373_Shaunsattic1.16(5).JPG.dd300c4d4d86d7395937b403efec0527.JPG

 

Four old Hornby style sprung uncoupling ramps were utilized and the whole lot given a quick base coat of ashfelt. Looks a lot better.

629888749_Shaunsattic1.16(6).JPG.74ecca8295dcaa602d3cf38e10cf9f51.JPG

 

 

A walk with the dogs and 'll get back to work this afternoon. Shaun. 

 

Edited by Sasquatch
"F' For bad punctuation yet again,
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Just love the use of the CD drawer and slots in the MDF.  That's such a mind step from motors and levers, to sliding pins along grooves, total respect!!  How you made the connection beggars belief.

 

 

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