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Plug for connecting power/lights between two baseboards


GBTDAMAN
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I have two baseboards which join together each has 4 pairs of wires for the DCC power, Street Lights, Point motors and Flashing lights. So I need to know where I can buy a 'plug in' connector which will join at least 8 wires from one board to the other.  It must be easy to push in and pull out to allow easy separation of the boards. One side needs to sit flush to allow the boards to close up together.    Even better would be a plug that is pre wired or avoids soldering.  I have tried a DIN plug in the past but they are very fiddly, requires soldering and if you have a problem with a wire connection it is a real pain to find and fix.  I may be asking a lot but I just want a simple solution.  Any help appreciated. Kevin. 

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Sounds like you need screw down plug-able screw terminal blocks. These can be mounted under the base board. They have the advantage that if extra power is needed one can simply screw in another pair of wires.

Hope that helps.

Shaun. 

DCC-Strip_3461621_Qty1_1.jpg

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I recently used similar plug-in terminal blocks for board to board connections but purchased from RS Components.   They are sold as 12-way blocks in various current ratings.   You just cut off the number of ways you need.

 

P.S. RS Components used to be known as just 'Radio Spares'.   But if you want to see a huge range of connectors then these are a people worth checking out.   Don't know how Model Railway re-sellers compare pricewise.

Edited by Geneng
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Why go for one x 8? With that any one failure puts out the lot.

 

Why not try 4 x 1/4" stereo plugs and sockets (one pair therefore per lead) with at least one spare fly lead; the fly lead is the bit most likely to be damaged by movement in plugging/unplugging. The other advantage, nice big chunky fittings to work with, I agree with you on using DIN fittings and other miniatures. I only used a DIN as it came with the DC controller.

 

I have also used an XLR socket and cable (3 pin) with two pins in use for my current layout's floor level power box to layout feed. No problems so far but use has not been that heavy. The one's I bought had the leads prewired I only had to solder up the chassis sockets. Given they are designed for stage work they are designed for adding and detaching and the sockets come with a latch which DINS do not. 

 

 

Edited by john new
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11 minutes ago, Geneng said:

To John New:   Why would one failure put out the lot?   Each pin is unique to its circuit.

I was reading it as a single plug/socket with 8 pins wired, to fix one you have therefore to disconnect the whole plug thereby temporarily taking out all eight rather than a single pair. 

 

Probably immaterial on a home layout, problematic at an exhibition.

 

If I misread/misinterpreted that then apologies.

 

Edited by john new
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https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-cable-lock-connectors-hef531-15-amp-178673.html

 

Another useful bit of kit.   If you ever want to avoid soldering in a power supply cable spur these are quite useful - if good enough for car audio currents then likely good enough for railway electrics.   I have used a couple today.   Align the cables, apply pliers to cut through the insulation and make the contact and success.

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@john new those pluggable terminal strips are used by hundreds of layouts and also at exhibitions, they are very reliable - but also very expensive.

 

@GenengMake sure that you use the correct size for the wire that you are using, not all scotchloks (that is the trade name, generic name is IDC) are for the same size of wire - use too small a wire and the insulation wont be cut, use to large a wire and the wire will be cut :(

 

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2 hours ago, GBTDAMAN said:

I have two baseboards which join together each has 4 pairs of wires for the DCC power, Street Lights, Point motors and Flashing lights. So I need to know where I can buy a 'plug in' connector which will join at least 8 wires from one board to the other.  It must be easy to push in and pull out to allow easy separation of the boards. One side needs to sit flush to allow the boards to close up together.    Even better would be a plug that is pre wired or avoids soldering.  I have tried a DIN plug in the past but they are very fiddly, requires soldering and if you have a problem with a wire connection it is a real pain to find and fix.  I may be asking a lot but I just want a simple solution.  Any help appreciated. Kevin. 

 

There is an easier way to use DIN Plugs & sockets than fiddling about trying to soldering wires to tiny pins on the plugs. 

Buy an extension cable with a plug on one end with matching socket pre-wired on the other.  These are usually available on ebay etc fairly cheaply.  Cut the cable in half and strip the cut ends which you then connect to the baseboards as required.

 

However, if you are planning to carry your DCC traction bus, you need to to make sure the individual cores are sufficiently large for the current (see various threads on here).  You might want to duplicate such connections to suit.

 

If you need to use more than one cable across a pair of baseboards, it is a good idea to use different types of plugs so that you can't accidentally connect the wrong ones togrther.

 

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49 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:

 

There is an easier way to use DIN Plugs & sockets than fiddling about trying to soldering wires to tiny pins on the plugs. 

Buy an extension cable with a plug on one end with matching socket pre-wired on the other.  These are usually available on ebay etc fairly cheaply.  Cut the cable in half and strip the cut ends which you then connect to the baseboards as required.

 

However, if you are planning to carry your DCC traction bus, you need to to make sure the individual cores are sufficiently large for the current (see various threads on here).  You might want to duplicate such connections to suit.

 

If you need to use more than one cable across a pair of baseboards, it is a good idea to use different types of plugs so that you can't accidentally connect the wrong ones together.

 

Re the last point - or different colour fly lead cables to colour patched sockets. Both good reminder tips.

 

On mine although the current layout uses one XLR cable (orange) and one DIN lead (white) the power box can take up to six XLRs plus the DIN output. All six have a different colour fly leads available. (Three transformers, 2 x 15V outputs each and also individually switched inside the box so not on if that output pair is not needed as an aid to keeping heat down, plus a 12V ex-PC fan for cooling).

 

 

Edited by john new
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3 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

@john new those pluggable terminal strips are used by hundreds of layouts and also at exhibitions, they are very reliable - but also very expensive.

 

@GenengMake sure that you use the correct size for the wire that you are using, not all scotchloks (that is the trade name, generic name is IDC) are for the same size of wire - use too small a wire and the insulation wont be cut, use to large a wire and the wire will be cut :(

 

Proops (don't know if they're still around) use to sell a 10 pack at shows for about 12 quid! Last time I needed some I sourced them from a chap in Hong Kong. Free shipping too!

I had that problem so now I strip the wire back about 12mm and bend it then add a touch of solder.

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