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Clearing plastic dust from files


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Has anyone found a quick and easy way of completely removing the dust from fine files used on plastics, particularly the Wills sheets (brick, slates etc)?  The wire on the ordinary file card brush I use for files used on metals isn't fine enough to do the business.

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Depending on the speed of the cut/filing, it may well be that the plastic has melted onto the surface - found out the hard way in sawing perspex sheet with a fine toothed jigsaw. Slow cut with a large-toothed tenon saw worked the best. On another thread (Mr Wolf?) uses a large cut file (8" IIRC) on his plasticard.

 

I don't have a solution other than 'pick' at the residue, if it has melted, with a brad or other such hard pointed implement.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip

 

PS: I see Dagworth has a more sensible solution.

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14 minutes ago, Philou said:

Depending on the speed of the cut/filing, it may well be that the plastic has melted onto the surface ...

 Nope, it's just fine dust accumulating in fine grooves.  Never thought of Dagworth's brass idea though, so off now to search through the bits boxes ...

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If it's just fine dust, I wipe the file on my jeans.

 

If it's a bit more substantial, eg. whitemetal, then an old, pointed scalpel blade, applied to each groove on the file in turn, does the job. Long-winded and tedious, but effective.

 

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  • 1 month later...

The reply from Dagworth can be used to clean almost all files from plastic, aluminium etc. And even nail files  - brownie points?

Do not use a wire brush as it will blunt the file. Also note that files are designed to cut on the forward stroke and should be lifted off on the return stroke to prevent the teeth becoming blunt. To prevent clogging or pinning as it was also known the advice from the old timers ( that’s us now ) was to rub chalk into the teeth but I had better results with WD 40.

In the good old days at The Royal Small Arms, the first apprentice “task”  was to collect your new tools  - 3 grades of files, ruler, try square, scriber and vernier callipers and reduce the 2” cube of mild steel to 1” cube using only the tools provided. Tolerance of 25 thou and all sides to be filed.  They always took on twice as many as required as they knew failure rate was 50%. You certainly knew how to file after that. I think Royal Navy artificers did a similar task.  No tools to be replaced so if you made it blunt so be it.

The fitting of gun parts was by smoke from candles to leave carbon deposit, fit, remove and file off the high spots to get perfect gas proof fit. I used to know a lady that did that task from 1939 till the end of the war, sent her home and brought her back for the Korean War. She was the best of the best. I got all my school technicians from the Small Arms cos they knew what to do.

pete

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As an apprentice with the CEGB I was taught to use a file card, and to use it when I finished a job or at the end of the day, which ever came first.

https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/file-card-brushes/how-to-use-a-file-card-brush

 

I was given a cheap set of files by my mum in 1970s, I am still using them because they get cleaned with a file card that is possibly older than me. The file card was a gift from my first wife's father.

 

On 17/01/2021 at 14:00, spikey said:

Has anyone found a quick and easy way of completely removing the dust from fine files used on plastics, particularly the Wills sheets (brick, slates etc)?  The wire on the ordinary file card brush I use for files used on metals isn't fine enough to do the business.

 

I do not have any problems using a file card after filing plastics.

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Something I was taught as an apprentice was don't use files you want to use for brass on steel, a file thats been used on steel will not cut brass properly.

Edited by JeremyC
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  • 3 weeks later...

I have used a file card for years, the one that I am using was "liberated" from work by my grandfather, so they last well. On the finer files and those used for cupro materials, I have always used a brass brush designed for cleaning suede shoes. This works fine for me where I use an 8" second cut engineers file and basically drag Will's sheet lengthwise up it to form bevelled corners.

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Coming back to this thread as the OP ...

 

An ordinary file card wasn't working on account of the files in question are either too fine-cut or are needle files.  But I've now found that, as suggested above, a fine brass brush of the type apparently used on suede shoes does the job admirably.

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