Most reliable adhesive for paper on plasticard

[sholidom]

Good morning everyone.

 

I've been using a lot of Scalescenes kits for my layout but am not getting the degree of finish that I want for my large station canopy.  As a result, I've decided to replace card with plasticard but I am having real problems getting the paper printouts to adhere to the plastic.  

 

Any advice, please, will be very welcome as this is my 4th attempt at building this canopy and I'd prefer it to be my last!

 

Many thanks.

Rob.

[ISW]

1 hour ago, sholidom said:

As a result, I've decided to replace card with plasticard but I am having real problems getting the paper printouts to adhere to the plastic. 

Rob,

 

Sound like a great idea to replace card with plastic. I was going to use card covered with paper printouts for the buildings & station on my layout, but if plastic can be made to work, that'd be a nice option.

 

Based on my previous, non-exhaustive, experience I'd be trying simple paper glue and then Pritt Sticks (or equivalent) to adhere the paper. If that didn't work I'd give neat PVA a go, applied with a brush to give a neat thin coat. However, I expect you're going to tell me that you've tried all those options, and they don't work?

 

Ian

[chris p bacon]

5 minutes ago, ISW said:

I'd give neat PVA a go

 

I don't think PVA would adher to the plastic.

 

I haven't tried sticking the 2 together but I think the pritt stick is a good option or a very thin smear of UHU ? 

[ISW]

Just now, chris p bacon said:

 

I don't think PVA would adher to the plastic.

 

I haven't tried sticking the 2 together but I think the pritt stick is a good option or a very thin smear of UHU ? 

As I said, my experience in these matters is non-exhaustive ... You could be quite right. 

 

Another option might be spray adhesive? Again, non tried it personally but worth a try. Trying to think of products that can be 'easily' applied over quite large areas in an even manner.

 

Ian

[Mark Forrest]

Could you print on self adhesive labels, then peel and stick to the plastic?

 

I attach plastic sleepers to paper templates using MEK, that gives a good, strong, bond.

[chris p bacon]

9 minutes ago, ISW said:

Another option might be spray adhesive? Again, non tried it personally but worth a try.

 

That would work   I'd forgotten I've used various spray mounts and contact adhesives from cheapo Poundland to 3M. 

[pheaton]

if you use contact adhesive it must be solvent free,  I have found though spray on contact adhesive ages and as a result after about a year also the paper will start to bubble and peal off. Solvents adhesives also normally will warp plasticard or harden it and make it brittle, pva will work but it will have a very low shear strength. And it will also weaken if there is any dampness.

[spikey]

For small areas, double-sided sticky tape works for me.  (That's the thin stuff sold by stationers, btw, not the heavy-duty stuff sold for sticking carpets down).

 

For bigger areas it's Pritt stick adhesive, taking care to avoid lumps.

[sholidom]

I've used a Pritt stick equivalent and it adheres up to a point but is very susceptible to coming unstuck again and so it's adhesive lifespan could be very limited; the last thing I want is to find it all peeling off 6-12 months down the line!

Having built the framework,   and from that you may gather that I'm already a good part of the way through rebuild 4, I did wonder whether rubbing the plastic sheets with fine Emery paper beforehand might've provided a base for the glue to adhere to but I've come too far to backtrack on that as an option.

Google investigation suggested pva could be an option but I've ruled that out as a) it'd have a detrimental effect on the print as I use inkjet  and b) I can't see it adhering to the plasticard anymore successfully than the Pritt stick.

I do have Uhu so I might give that a bash but I suspect getting a thin even coat that won't show through the paper could be a challenge.  

I do also have adhesive sheets so maybe that's another option.

As this topic seems to have raised quite a bit of early interest, I'll keep you posted.

[brossard]

I built a road overbridge for the club layout.  I used plastic sheet for the structure and Scalescenes for the covering.  My method was to use spray adhesive to stick plain paper on the plastic sides.  Then I used Pritt to stick the Scalescenes covering to the paper.

 

A word of warning I did see signs of warpage over time.  I think the issue is that paper absorbs moisture while plastic doesn't hence a kind of tug o' war.  I do use spray matte varnish on my prints.

 

Good luck.

 

John

Edited January 25, 2021 by brossard

[Geep7]

PVA has worked for me attaching paper adverts and signs to plasticard buildings.... Just keep the surface flat while it glues, and use it sparingly. Also superglue works as well, as it absorbs into the paper....

[ISW]

2 hours ago, sholidom said:

I do also have adhesive sheets so maybe that's another option.

As this topic seems to have raised quite a bit of early interest, I'll keep you posted.

Whatever method you finally adopt, it generally works out much better if you use an 'ink roller' to properly adhere the paper to the substrate. Obviously it's great for nice flat panels but not so great for awkward roof shapes where alternative means needs to be used.

Ian

[stewartingram]

I use A4 sheets of self adhesive labels which readily attach to sheets of plasticard (thickness of the plastic varied to suit. I then cut out the parts from the sheet with a craft knife, and stick them together with Mekpak or similar. Finally, when complete, I brush a matt varnish on to seal everything; my building are used in the garage with varying temperature and humidity. The varnish I use comes from the local DIY store, much cheaper from them than a specialist model varnish.

 

Stewart

[rob D2]

I’ve used pritt, but you have to cover every single mm and even then as mentioned , it’s easy for it to come undone especially at the corners.

 

if I do it again , some sort of 3m spray adhesive like I used on backscenes would be the way I think 

[Nickey Line]

My choice would be this...

 

Positionable photo mount adhesive sheets

 

Also available in rolls, I think about £85 for a 0.4 x 30 meter roll! Would last for ages...

 

Alternatively, a similar product...

 

https://www.selfadhesive.co.uk/tapes/double-sided-tapes/adhesive-sheets.html

 

[PenrithBeacon]

The second link gives a 500 error, and the first gives a product and postage costs which are eye watering!

Edited January 25, 2021 by PenrithBeacon

[zarniwhoop]

59 minutes ago, PenrithBeacon said:

The second link gives a 500 error, and the first gives a product and postage costs which are eye watering!

• The second link works for me. 500 is an internal server error, so perhaps they've fixed it.

[Dagworth]

I have always used liquid poly. Make sure that the print is solvent proof first but simply dab a little solvent onto the paper when it is laid over the plastic. It will melt the surface of the plastic slightly and give a permanent flat bond to the paper. 
 

if your print is not solvent proof then this technique may work to glue plain paper to the plastic and then pritt stick the printed paper to it once dry. 
 

Andi

[Michael Hodgson]

1 hour ago, PenrithBeacon said:

The second link gives a 500 error, and the first gives a product and postage costs which are eye watering!

 

... and his ebay feedback is crap.

That's the USA for you - they really don't want to export anything do they?

I don't understand why it says "No additional import charges on delivery" when it goes on to specify import charges.

The second link works fine for me though.

[sholidom]

I've used a Pritt stick equivalent and it adheres up to a point but is very susceptible to coming unstuck again and so it's adhesive lifespan could be very limited; the last thing I want is to find it all peeling off 6-12 months down the line!

Having built the framework,   and from that you may gather that I'm already a good part of the way through rebuild 4, I did wonder whether rubbing the plastic sheets with fine Emery paper beforehand might've provided a base for the glue to adhere to but I've come too far to backtrack on that as an option.

Google investigation suggested pva could be an option but I've ruled that out as a) it'd have a detrimental effect on the print as I use inkjet  and b) I can't see it adhering to the plasticard anymore successfully than the Pritt stick.

I do have Uhu so I might give that a bash but I suspect getting a thin even coat that won't show through the paper could be a challenge.  

I do also have adhesive sheets so maybe that's another option.

As this topic seems to have raised quite a bit of early interest, I'll keep you posted.

[sholidom]

Having read through the responses, and many thanks to everyone who has, I think I'm going to have to ditch paper from here on if I continue to use plasticard.

 

I tried adhesive sheets last night and they were about as successful as Pritt stick.  Bostick tubes were better but entirely unsuitable for large areas of paper.  

 

I'm hoping I've managed to bodge it but at least I've learned a few more lessons should it come to station canopy mark 5!

 

P.S. My wife keeps asking why I didn't pick a more relaxing hobby.  Can't think what makes her say that!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[5050]

12 hours ago, Dagworth said:

I have always used liquid poly. Make sure that the print is solvent proof first but simply dab a little solvent onto the paper when it is laid over the plastic. It will melt the surface of the plastic slightly and give a permanent flat bond to the paper. 
 

if your print is not solvent proof then this technique may work to glue plain paper to the plastic and then pritt stick the printed paper to it once dry. 
 

Andi

Same method I use.  Never seem to have had a problem and some items are now getting on a bit.

[Crisis Rail]

2 hours ago, sholidom said:

Having read through the responses, and many thanks to everyone who has, I think I'm going to have to ditch paper from here on if I continue to use plasticard.

 

I tried adhesive sheets last night and they were about as successful as Pritt stick.  Bostick tubes were better but entirely unsuitable for large areas of paper.  

 

I'm hoping I've managed to bodge it but at least I've learned a few more lessons should it come to station canopy mark 5!

 

P.S. My wife keeps asking why I didn't pick a more relaxing hobby.  Can't think what makes her say that!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some good card kits out there but are susceptible to the elements and soon turn to compost - the Laser MDF kit range are coming on well  - good to see your trying -  I generally use 2 side tape but you have to be accurate. And yes see my userid my missus christened it.

 

Ian

[brossard]

Scalescenes make into excellent buildings.  I made a lot for the club layout more than 10 years ago and they are still going.  I guess it might depend on the materials that you use though.  I have some on my 7mm layout too.

 

Lcut is another range that I have used extensively for my 7mm layout.  These are great value and make into excellent buildings, especially if you embellish them.

 

John

 

If you are looking for another less stressful hobby, I was watching some blokes trying to climb Mt Everest last night.  Pack an extra sweater.

 

 

Edited January 26, 2021 by brossard

[Rowsley17D]

Peter @kirtleypete, a professional model-maker uses cheap contact adhesive and this is his method