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Class 26


HealeyMills
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Totally agree with all you say Matt.

Im a bity gutted at A...My lack of skill detailing the model and B...That the model's tooling did not show the same sort of forethought that the Farish 24 did by having holes for the discs to be fitted into.I hope that Dapol can look into the snowplough issue in regards to the up and coming class 27.I will stress however that im over the moon that at last we have a RTR Class 26 and hopefully soon a Class 27.However makes me even more anxious that Farish do produce a new Class 40 as their attention to detailing seem more well thought out.(IMO)

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In terms of the plough (again) I was looking through the Feb 2012 Railway Modeller earlier and they reviewed the Dapol 26.

 

It did say in the review that there was only one set of ploughs and no instructions etc. They go on to say with further experimentation they unclipped the coupling and NEM pocket then the plough assembly is a simple push fit onto the lower part of the coupling mount. No glue or cutting is required and it is completely reversible.

 

I am guessing one plough as people may wish to detail one end and leave the rapido on the other end?

 

Hope this helps...

Edited by bcnPete
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That's actually a very big help - thank you very much. I'll have a go at it tonight.

 

OK (post edited 12 hours later) - Had a go and it's a piece of cake once you know how it's supposed to work.

1.) remove the coupling

2.) prize out the NEM socket from the socket housing. There's a small hole at between the back of the socket and the socket housing that you can slide a long needle into to push the socket out, but be careful as it potentially could come out of the socket with some force and go flying across the room.

3.) Simply slip the plough over the lower half of the socket housing. It's a snug friction fit and is unlikely to fall off.

 

Given the socket housing for the NEM socket and coupler is a bit proud of the body, the fitted plough also sits a bit proud of the body rather than tucked under it. Still, I think the fitted plough looks pretty good. Given that the fitted plough precludes use of the coupler, I get why Dapol only provides one plough.

 

I don't understand why Dapol chose not to include something similar to the foregoing instructions on the slip of paper that comes in the loco's box.

 

Matt

Edited by oreamnos
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That's exactly the point I made back in October- why doesn't the loco come with even the most basic instructions on how to fit the accessories- I gave up and left them in the box which is a shame.

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  • 4 months later...

i was wondering if anyone else has a class 26 with travelling bogies. i have a br blue example and when i change direction of travel on it, the bogie which is then at the leading end of the loco moves forward in its housing by about 3-4 mm. when the loco is off the track, both of the bogies can be moved backwards and forwards by a considerable amount.

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i was wondering if anyone else has a class 26 with travelling bogies. i have a br blue example and when i change direction of travel on it, the bogie which is then at the leading end of the loco moves forward in its housing by about 3-4 mm. when the loco is off the track, both of the bogies can be moved backwards and forwards by a considerable amount.

 

I don't remember off-hand if either of my two 26s have this "feature" or not, but every Dapol Hymek I have tried (before returning them all for various defects) did this somewhat alarmingly. I know several if not most of my Bachmann-Farish locos do this - certainly all of my Class 40s have a bit of fore-and-aft play in their bogies, and I think all my Peaks do, too. I've never noticed it affecting running.

 

IMHO I don't think its anything to worry about or to fuss over, in the 26 or any other diesel.

 

Matt

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I looked at my green 26 because it was handy (I'd have to hunt for the blue one) and it has about 1mm of play fore and aft. To get even that much movement it required a bit of a tug. I also measured a Poole Farish 40, a BachFar 40 and BachFar Peak and they also had about 1mm of play (though they didn't require any tug at all) and the Peak had a bit more slop (< .5mm more) in it than did the 40s. A BachFar Class 50 had about .5mm of play, while a Warship and the Deltic prototype had no discernible play at all.

 

The Hymeks I mentioned in my earlier post did indeed have about 3mm of play and the shift looked quite dramatic as the bogies would move with a change in direction before the rest of the body did. I've had US outline locos that did the same, too.

 

As the bogies on the 26 are designed to pull out of the chassis with just a firm tug, I suppose you just could pull them out and see if the locating prongs are misshapen or bent. But if this is a new model you just received, since this issue concerns you perhaps you should just send it back and exchange it for a new one?

 

Matt

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  • 1 month later...
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hi gang 26040 arrived today, lovely model and great runner . Bits bag has two ploughs! ,headcode discs, magnetic couplers, dummy Dapol buckeyes hoses, dummy scew and MU cables.

 

To watch however is that ND145J is a green D5326 with small yellow panel and very nice too! but not as shown in cat where it is a 26003 in blue. Unannounced change it seems but good for green diesel period modellers. Logical as it makes for two green and two blue releases.

Robert

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  • 2 weeks later...

Received green D5326 and it's lovely. Note that it is a model of a later build 26 and the body is different than Dapol's first green 26 release that had the SYP. It has the modified cant rail grilles of the blue 26s, like 26026 and 26040 even though it still has the connecting doors on the ends. It also has round instead of oval buffers. If this isn't clear, the best way to see what I'm trying to describe is to go to the Hattons' site and compare the pictures of D5326 with the pictures of the green 26 (without the SYP) from the first release that Hatton's still has for sale, which has the original style cant rail tooling.

 

It comes with the same bag of bits Robert described above for blue 26040, including the two snow ploughs. Finally, and importantly, the headcode discs that come with it now have holes pre-drilled in them, so you can fit them and still see the light through them as per prototype. Nice to see Dapol make this improvement on a later release model.

 

Matt

Edited by oreamnos
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  • 1 month later...

Get the loco and take the motor out and all the gears and keep them for spares, as i used to get cheap second hand locos for spares as overall it can work out cheaper. 

 

Hi Arran,

 

Thank you very much for that.  I might take your advice but for two reasons:

 

1. Generally the serviceability of many locos that are available on the second hand market, often via a well known website that rhymes with Tebay, are not that good for spare parts tbh :no2:

 

2. I would rather put more money into Dapols pockets - aiding future development and investment :mosking:

 

Personal choice I guess :yes:

 

Cheers

Lee

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  • 4 years later...
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My Dapol Classs 26 seems to have got an issue that I cannot identify!  The other day it started behaving irractically and when I lifted it off the track I discovered something was rattling loose inside it.

 

Upon opening it up a small piece of metal fell out, obviously the source of the rattle but for the life of me I cannot see from whence it has come from!

 

Anyone got any ideas please?

post-6910-0-82842300-1510300891_thumb.jpg

 

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  • 1 year later...
2 minutes ago, Ed-farms said:

New batch of 26's has been announced https://www.Dapol.co.uk/New-N-Gauge-Class-26-Models-Announced

 

BR green, BRE Blue, Railfreight Grey and Railfreight Coal. Looks like the only change is fitting of an 18pin socket as opposed to 6 pin

Any change to the electrics can only be a good thing, it was the Achilles heel of these models.

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Bit on the steep side price wise though.  I shall want to see a better shade of rail blue on these this time around rather than the rather insipid greenish shade used previously.

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  • 8 months later...

Any tips on trouble shooting the lighting on a Dapol 26? 

 

I've finally got around to sorting out a nicely weathered but slightly abused 26 that I picked up at a show a while back.

 

The headlights work in one direction, but the tail lights on that same end don't work when the direction is reversed. Other end of the model is the other way around - only tail lights work on that end.

 

If I run it with the body loose, it looks like I can see some white light shining out from under the cab of the end where the headlight doesn't seem to work. Seems to suggest it might not be the LEDs themselves.

 

Any tips on getting the lighting unit out from the cab?

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