Brecon and Merthyr Stephenson 2-4-0 locomotive parts and assembly.

[Timber]

Fitting the outer frames...

 

These are a two part assembly per side.  An inner frame and an etched outer frame.

[Timber]

The inner frame has two steps at the front.  These need to be folded towards the etch.

[Timber]

The outer frame is now placed over the top, using the front steps for alignment.   There may be some attention required to get the alignement correct but if correct the rivets for the rear step and the step itself should align (small strip of nine rivets towards the rear of the frame).

 

Once aligned clamp the two parts and run a fillet of solder around the edges, this will hold the two pieces together.

[Timber]

Finally the two frames are soldered to the footplate.  On the base of the footplate there is an etched rectangle that helps with the possitioning.   The front of the frames should fit into the corner of the rectangle and the rear of the frames trimmed so that they meet the rear corner.

[Rosedale]

I am astounded, this is really clear and helpful. Stage by stage, really clear pictures, graphics and explanations. And building into a very nice engine. Brilliant!

[Timber]

To finish the footplate, first add the leaf springs.  If using the 3D printed brass then these solder in as per any brass fitting....if budget is tight there are plastic prints available but given these components with their slender legs are relatively fragile, brass is the best option.

[Timber]

Next up are the buffer beam skins....these have built in lamp brakets that slot through the footplate.  The inside edge of the buffer beam is then soldered to hold in place.  There are 3D printed thickners to the buffer beams but these are added later in the build.

[Timber]

Now that the footplate is complete the next step is to work on the bunker.  This is a single etch that should be kept whole....

Edited February 2, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

Drill out the handrail holes...as these are very faint on the etch....

[Timber]

Then start to fold and solder.  The solder should be applied to the inside edge, forming a fillet that can then be smoothed on the face.  

[Timber]

Once the bunker is complete the slotted tab should be folded against the etch grove so that it sits across the bottom of the bunker and fixed in place with a solder joint.

 

The bunker sits on the footplate hard up against the protruding lamp brakets and will, once complete be held in place by a soldered joint(s).

 

There are however, two steps to this process.  First we simply want to put the bunker in place as it is easier to align the main body.  Once the body is aligned, the banker is removed while the cab is built and then added back in at the end.  So at this stage do not solder the bunker to the footplate.

 

Use a file to open the slot closer to the front and back edge.  Then drop the 6BA screw in.

Edited February 2, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

Then tighted the bolt to the footplate using a 6BA nut.  Keeping the bunker hard up against the lamp brakets...

[Timber]

Turning to the body, this is made up of two etched pieces, the inner tank body and a wrapper that forms a skin around the body and across the tank sides.

[Timber]

Originally the inner tank body that includes the cab face had a small bracket to fit the whistles.  This proved to be messy so I now simple drill two holes and fit the whistle pair to the cab front using 4mm handrail knobs.  To support this two holes need to be drilled.

 

Holes will also have to be drilled as to where you want to place the filler caps, there are a couple of options bassed on the prototype you are making, early locos appeared to have the caps at the back late at the front.

Edited February 5, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

Now fold the tank tops forward....

[Timber]

Then fold again to complete the inner tank.

[Timber]

Adding the whistle and associated pipework is fiddly, possibly the most fiddly part of building the locomotive......I have also added the window frames.....hinges to the outside

[Timber]

Now the outer frame wrapper can be formed.  The edges are folded and once again a fillet of solder added to give a nice sharp edge.

[Regularity]

Origami in alloy.

[Timber]

Now the outer wrap and inner tank are soldered together.  This needs alot of heat so a large soldering iron is needed.  Hold the two pieces with clamps, the groves in the tank side allow for extra solder adhesion....and a fillet of solder is needed along the top of the tanks to form a clean join.  This will need to be carefully rubbed down to make smooth.

Edited February 3, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

Here is the finished tank, the top fillet is visible pre clean up....finally the tank can be offered to the frame and chassis...starting to look like a loco.....

[Timber]

Jumping to the motor and gear box.  

 

I have designed the model to drive the trailing driver through a "High Level" Loadhauler and DriveSttretcher.

 

The motor I have chosen for my model is modern Hornby motor, it required some modification to the gearbox fixing.  High Level sell a range of motors for their gearbox and this maybe a safer route if you are uncomfortable with changing the gearbox.

 

In the High Level Instructions it suggests that the 2mm rods that the gears run on do not need to be soldered or glued but in my experience they do need fixing, if you use solder take care not to melt the gears.

 

Let the DriveStretcher pivot on the Loadhauler, this will allow the motor to be fixed and the wheels still to be compensated.

Edited February 4, 2021 by Timber

[Timber]

Test connect the gearbox into the chassis

[Timber]

Check for clearance with footplate....

[Timber]

Finally check clearance within the tank sides.  Some of the 3D boiler will need to be trimmed, this is a larger motor than I planned but best to modily the boiler once in possition as the nylon can be fragile when not properly secured.

 

(Tank still not connected at this stage).

Edited February 4, 2021 by Timber