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Fitting Markits sprung buffers


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Hi all

 

I'm replacing the rigid buffers on my Bachmann birdcage stock with Markits SECR sprung buffers, and I'd appreciate any tips on fitting them.

 

The standard buffers can simply be pulled out (thanks @The Bigbee Line!)

 

So that just leaves me to 'simply' install the new buffers. And therein lies the rub. The first part of the 'keeper', for want of a better word, (A) passes through the hole in the buffer beam, and feels like the back post of the buffer (C) will be a snug fit like the original. The problem is that the end of the 'keeper' (B) will not go through.

 

The 'keeper' might be removable from the shaft, but if it is it's damned tight. I could widen the hole to allow (B) through, but that leaves me with a messy fix for (C).

 

buffer.jpg.2299450313ee9727812f28cbcb3e0051.jpg

 

Has anyone tried this in similar circumstances? And what would you recommend?

 

Tx.

 

 

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Hi Truffy, 

 

I've fitted the same markits buffers to two rakes of birdcage stock. How I do it isn't the only way, but it is my way.

 

50313780871_783c5e9e01_h.jpg

 

I drill holes in the floor, directly behind where the buffer shank sticks through, this is because the lip you've labelled 'B' protrudes too far upwards and won't allow the buffer to sit level without the hole in the floor. 

 

The nut on the end of the buffer shank (labelled 'A' 'B', is removable, a markits screwdriver is usually required to get them off though - having said that, you don't need to take them off to get the buffers in place. However, if you do there's less risk of gluing everything solid when you attach the buffers. 

 

Let me know if you have any other questions or anything, I can take some extra photos too if you need

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12 hours ago, Jack P said:

The nut on the end of the buffer shank (labelled 'A' 'B', is removable, a markits screwdriver is usually required to get them off though - having said that, you don't need to take them off to get the buffers in place. However, if you do there's less risk of gluing everything solid when you attach the buffers. 

 

Let me know if you have any other questions or anything, I can take some extra photos too if you need

Thank you Jack, much appreciated!

 

I think that I will try taking the A/B 'keeper' off. Have you tried anything other than a Markits screwdriver? I don't have one, although they're not exorbitantly expensive...probably less than the cost of shipping! :rolleyes:

 

How did you get the keeper back on? Just pliers and brute strength?

 

Thanks once again.

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No worries!

 

I haven't tried anything except the markits screwdriver, but I reckon some pliers would do the job too. The end of the buffer shank is actually threaded, so part AB is more like a nut, that keeps the internal spring captive. It can be a bit of a faff getting it all back together, but I usually glue the buffer housing into the coach, and then while the chassis is still apart from the body, feed the buffer through and screw the nut on.

 

Hopefully that helps!

 

For what it's worth, I certainly think this is a worthwhile endeavor, I fitted screw links and sprung buffers to mine, and they can finally go around corners!

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15 hours ago, Jack P said:

The end of the buffer shank is actually threaded, so part AB is more like a nut, that keeps the internal spring captive.

 

Aha! Important information. I assumed that it was a really tight push-fit. Doh!

 

15 hours ago, Jack P said:

For what it's worth, I certainly think this is a worthwhile endeavor, I fitted screw links and sprung buffers to mine, and they can finally go around corners!

 

Yep, that's exactly my plan too.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 02/02/2021 at 20:45, Jack P said:

I fitted screw links and sprung buffers to mine, and they can finally go around corners!

 

@Jack P, did you use the Bachmann-supplied (cosmetic?) screw links, or sprung links such as Smiths'?

 

For anyone searching for these solutions in the future, and with apologies for the lousy 'phone photo, this is my attempt.

 

I used a burring tool on a Proxxon Micromot (Dremel-alike). With a little fiddling, and a fair deal of swearing, I was able to get the keeper nuts installed with a pair of needle-nosed tweezers. If I had a Markits screwdriver, though, I'd probably give that a whirl in the first instance.

 

IMG_2318.jpg.fcd0c2e7bac9faec90d8b85bb3f6a366.jpg

Edited by truffy
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3 hours ago, truffy said:

@Jack P, did you use the Bachmann-supplied (cosmetic?) screw links, or sprung links such as Smiths'?

 

Hey Truffy, 

 

I did originally try to use the Bachmann links, but I found they were just stiff enough to uncouple the train. I reverted back to my standard Roxey screw couplings, You could definitely use sprung smiths couplings. You might need to butcher the area behind the coupling pocket to get it to fit, but if you don't plan to use the cammed NEM pocket extensions again - it's moot. 

 

You've done a good job fitting the buffers - I often find it's handy to chemically blacken the buffer housings before fitting them, as it provides a good key for the paint. I then paint the whole bufferbeam again in situ. 

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  • 1 year later...
12 hours ago, Wickham Green too said:

Just completed my two EM gauge Bachmann trio sets with Markits buffers ........ I find the buffers almost as stiff as the solid Bachmann ones ! - any thoughts ?

 

Is it the spring, or the shank? I oiled my shanks and did lots of repeated compressions of the springs to help them slide and and freely. Might have sanded them slightly too?

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30 minutes ago, JeffP said:

Remove springs, cut in half, stretch to original length, refit.

I did wonder if that was a possible option - thanks ............. I'll try on a 'spare' set before attempting the 'fun' job of getting the springs out from the trio sets !

24 minutes ago, Jack P said:

Is it the spring, or the shank? ...

I'm sure it's the springs ..... they seemed rather on the stiff side when I got them !

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