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Ideas for Buttons and Control Knobs?


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I have several sets of points and un-couplers controlled by brass push-pull rod method. 

I have added some plastic trim to the control panel of the layout, and the ends of the brass rods now poke through (protection from eye-pokes and scratches provided by Blue-tak!)

IMG_20210208_172140230.jpg.acaf6f9c3385799010f75eb111e15b9c.jpg

I will be disguising and beautifying the (large-ish) holes that the rods protrude through with small sections of thin plastic sheet. 

 

All I need to finish the job is something to pop on to the ends of the brass rods.  Any ideas?

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39 minutes ago, ITG said:

I always manage to find such bits and bobs on eBay. Just be creative in what you search for...... kitchen unit knobs, mixer slider knobs?

Cheers, I like the slider idea - the throw of the switches is pretty small (about 3mm) so I'm I'm thinking of something "fingertip" controlled.

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Wooden dowels. Cut in half and centre drill.

That set of old felt pens. Bin them. Fill the caps with epoxy.  Drill and secure with super glue.

Golf tees..........

My solution is shown below.

 

Or you could find a true artisan to custom turn them from billet aluminium!

IMG_20210208_220034.jpg

Edited by doilum
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Control knobs for electronic equipment* or, really penny-pinching the end caps from  mains fuses (take care removing the glass part!) or even a brass nut.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=control+knobs&_sacat=92074&_sop=15

 

* Usually 6mm/¼" dia. but a bit of dowel will sort that.

 

Here in Italy, the metal parts of mains plugs and sockets are a possibility, but the British design does not really lend itself to this use.

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How about going a bit further with the mechanism and using a lever to move the rod rather than grasping the rod through a knob?

 

 

With the lever pivot above the rod connection you would reverse the movement so that pulling the top of the lever towards you would push the tiebar away and thus direct trains towards you, same as the lever. Might be useful?

 

image.png.6ba4d02c0f077589f7952c7c62a23a45.png

 

Something like that arrangement would magnify the movement as well, making it a bit more "user-friendly".

Edited by Harlequin
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 09/02/2021 at 15:37, crompton 33 said:

Valve caps as used for car tyres. Fill with epoxy when dry drill small hole and push on.

Quick update, aluminium valve caps (car/bike) colours also available - less than six quid for 12 on eBay:

IMG_20210302_115424401.jpg.bf2389c2586c7c30499a007b28aab1fa.jpg.0dd754090b53d99aa311f8dea3e722f7.jpg

Thanks!

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On 09/02/2021 at 16:02, Harlequin said:

How about going a bit further with the mechanism and using a lever to move the rod rather than grasping the rod through a knob?

 

 

With the lever pivot above the rod connection you would reverse the movement so that pulling the top of the lever towards you would push the tiebar away and thus direct trains towards you, same as the lever. Might be useful?

 

image.png.6ba4d02c0f077589f7952c7c62a23a45.png

 

Something like that arrangement would magnify the movement as well, making it a bit more "user-friendly".

 

There seems to be  huge non scenic area in front of the layout.  I don't think I have seen anything like that before.

I go the opposite way, to maximise use of the available space the baseboard edge is the railway boundary wall. The controls are below the baseboard or through the baseboard framing.    I would plagiarise Harlequins idea and mount it up the other way so the control lever is below the baseboard with a prominent mark on the face to show where to grope around to find it...

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12 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

 

There seems to be  huge non scenic area in front of the layout.  I don't think I have seen anything like that before.

I go the opposite way, to maximise use of the available space the baseboard edge is the railway boundary wall. The controls are below the baseboard or through the baseboard framing.    I would plagiarise Harlequins idea and mount it up the other way so the control lever is below the baseboard with a prominent mark on the face to show where to grope around to find it...

The front panel is only 8cm deep - as I planned this layout, it seemed (being N Gauge) that it barely needed 20cm depth to accommodate it.  Coupling together the fact that I had an old homebase bookcase still in it's box and a long offcut of (pretty good quality) plastic trim, bringing the materials together with the design seemed like a no-brainer.

I really like the "clean" lines that the white sections provide - with their chromed toggle switches and shiny buttons, the clinical simplicity of the traverser deck -  in contrast to the grubby urban-ness of the layout.  

 

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