RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted February 10, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2021 Good afternoon all, I am in the process of building a Nu-Cast Stanier 2 Cyl 2-6-4T and have already assembled the body. I have a Comet chassis which I will be using, however, it will require a fair bit of fettling to get the body to sit on it at the right height. When I put the chassis and body up against a Roche drawing, and use the axle centres as a guide, the body would sit way too high. Has anyone modified the Comet chassis and is there an easy way of making sure what I do remove is accurate, or is it a case of a little at a time until it sits right? Failing that, is the old brass block chassis which came with the kit worth using instead? I have Markits wheels and plan on using a "live chassis". Your assistance is very much appreciated. Thank you Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_man Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 Hello Ian, Adjusting the Comet chassis so that the body sits at the correct height is probably a reasonable approach however can be tricky when the chassis and body were not designed for each other. As you are lowering the body you need to watch out for the tops of the cylinders and the wheel flanges fouling the underside of the footplate as the Nu-Cast footplates are quite thick. Once you have it partially assembled with the wheels on, check that the buffers are 14mm above the rail top at each end and on each side and if necessary make some final adjustments to the ride height. The brass block chassis are not all bad, I built an 0-8-0 with a milled brass chassis and it was spot on in terms of axle spacing/coupling rod spacing and alignment. The difficulty comes when adding details such as brakes or a more modern motor/gearbox. Good luck with your build! Steve Canada 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 Careful with using the Roche drawings. Many of them are wrong. Jason 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 11, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2021 This one's not bad, basic dimensions are all correct at least. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted February 11, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2021 Thank you all. I have marked the chassis wjere i need to trim back and it isnt too much. Will post pics later The drawing does put the buffer height dead on 14mm so that is the guide i will work to. I will need to lower the cylinder block mounting point to compensate and i can trim a little from the footplate underside to prevent any fouling of fhe wheels. If all else fails, i will use the milled chassis 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 11, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2021 LMS buffer height was 3' 5 1/2", very close to 14mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted February 11, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2021 (edited) The black marks show the areas which i believe need to be removed in order for the body to sit on the chassis. I will trim a little at a time until i get the height correct and the body sitting level. Edited February 11, 2021 by ianLMS 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted February 13, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2021 I made the necessary modifcations to the chassis and it now sits nicely at the correct height. Will fit comnecting rods and test to make zure all is smooth and free running before fitting the gearbox. 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 2, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2021 (edited) Practice run before i started the Nu-cast 2 cyl kit. A Wills Stanier 3 cyl, comet chassis, HL gearbox with coreless motor. This one is sprung on the outer axles only which makes the loco tip back and forth as the fixed middle axle sits lower. Typical with Comet chassis as several are like it. The Nu-cast is all sprung and sits much better. 2530 was in Derby works in 1939 so i decided i could get away with it as a visitor up north for trial runs. Edited March 2, 2021 by ianLMS 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 2, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2021 This is the latest pic of the Nu-cast 2 cyl 2-6-4T. Comet gearbox with old round mashima motor. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pH Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 1 hour ago, ianLMS said: 2530 was in Derby works in 1939 so i decided i could get away with it as a visitor up north for trial runs. 42530 and 42535 went to Scotland in August 1951 for trials. They went north via Crewe. I don’t know which route they took back south. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 2, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2021 We will just say they got lost in the hills and dales sometime in 1939 and ended up in Jencaster working the Sheffield suburban train for a while! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 15, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2021 All finished. Final coat of Alclad 2 Klear Kote Flat applied yesterday. Just left to add some tools and will get it on the layout. 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 Ian Looking very good. Strange about the Comet chassis, the centre holes should be higher not lower, What spring units are you using please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 15, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2021 (edited) On the nu cast i spung the whole chassis using highlevel kits hornblocks so no problem. I used the same hornblocks for the outer axles on the wills loco. The highlevel kit hornblocks drop in nicely into the comet chassis. EDIT: Hornblocks are from Brassmasters not High Level... Edited March 16, 2021 by ianLMS 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 This is a gorgeous model. Great job I had been looking for one of these, as at least one of the Class was seen on excursion duties on the Scarborough and Whitby line. However, a Hornby model was spotted & aquired at a good price. I will be interested to compare the Hornby model with a kit built one in due course. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 15, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2021 Ty all for the kind comments and reactions. I did enjoy building the Nu-cast kit. Went together relatively easy. The Wills one was a little more challenging and much less detailed. I think i will end up rebuilding the chassis on that one as it runs like a duck on acid!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now