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Nu-Cast LMS Stanier 2 Cyl 2-6-4T


ianLMS
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Good afternoon all,

I am in the process of building a Nu-Cast Stanier 2 Cyl 2-6-4T and have already assembled the body.

 

I have a Comet chassis which I will be using, however, it will require a fair bit of fettling to get the body to sit on it at the right height. When I put the chassis and body up against a Roche drawing, and use the axle centres as a guide, the body would sit way too high.

 

Has anyone modified the Comet chassis and is there an easy way of making sure what I do remove is accurate, or is it a case of a little at a time until it sits right? 

 

Failing that, is the old brass block chassis which came with the kit worth using instead? I have Markits wheels and plan on using a "live chassis".

 

Your assistance is very much appreciated.

 

Thank you

Ian

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Hello Ian,

 

Adjusting the Comet chassis so that the body sits at the correct height is probably a reasonable approach however can be tricky when the chassis and body were not designed for each other.

As you are lowering the body you need to watch out for the tops of the cylinders and the wheel flanges fouling the underside of the footplate as the Nu-Cast footplates are quite thick.

Once you have it partially assembled with the wheels on, check that the buffers are 14mm above the rail top at each end and on each side and if necessary make some final adjustments to the ride height.

 

The brass block chassis are not all bad, I built an 0-8-0 with a milled brass chassis and it was spot on in terms of axle spacing/coupling rod spacing and alignment. The difficulty comes when adding details such as brakes or a more modern motor/gearbox.

 

Good luck with your build!

 

Steve

Canada

 

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Thank you all. I have marked the chassis wjere i need to trim back and it isnt too much. Will post pics later

 The drawing does put the buffer height dead on 14mm so that is the guide i will work to. I will need to lower the cylinder block mounting point to compensate and i can trim a little from the footplate underside to prevent any fouling of fhe wheels.

 

If all else fails, i will use the milled chassis

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The black marks show the areas which i believe need to be removed in order for the body to sit on the chassis. I will trim a little at a time until i get the height correct and the body sitting level.

 

 

 

20210211_215038.jpg

20210211_215012.jpg

Edited by ianLMS
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I made the necessary modifcations to the chassis and it now sits nicely at the correct height. Will fit comnecting rods and test to make zure all is smooth and free running before fitting the gearbox.

 

 

20210213_171241.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Practice run before i started the Nu-cast 2 cyl kit. A Wills Stanier 3 cyl, comet chassis, HL gearbox with coreless motor. This one is sprung on the outer axles only which makes the loco tip back and forth as the fixed middle axle sits lower. Typical with Comet chassis as several are like it. The Nu-cast is all sprung and sits much better. 

 

2530 was in Derby works in 1939 so i decided i could get away with it as a visitor up north for trial runs. 

 

16147154568013863409171517054914.jpg

Edited by ianLMS
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1 hour ago, ianLMS said:

2530 was in Derby works in 1939 so i decided i could get away with it as a visitor up north for trial runs. 


42530 and 42535 went to Scotland in August 1951 for trials. They went north via Crewe. I don’t know which route they took back south.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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On the nu cast i spung the whole chassis using highlevel kits hornblocks so no problem. I used the same hornblocks for the outer axles on the wills loco. The highlevel kit hornblocks drop in nicely into the comet chassis.

 

EDIT: Hornblocks are from Brassmasters not High Level...

Edited by ianLMS
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This is a gorgeous model. Great job

:good:

 

I had been looking for one of these, as at least one of the Class was seen on excursion duties on the Scarborough and Whitby line. However, a Hornby model was spotted & aquired at a good price. I will be interested to compare the Hornby model with a kit built one in due course.

 

Mark

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Ty all for the kind comments and reactions. I did enjoy building the Nu-cast kit. Went together relatively easy. The Wills one was a little more challenging and much less detailed. I think i will end up rebuilding the chassis on that one as it runs like a duck on acid!!

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