Hornby HM 6000

[Guest]

9 minutes ago, RichardT said:

 

Much appreciated confused...............but if Hornby are enabling users to rename the circuits and the devices then the ability to edit the names of the accessory channels would seem an obvious upgrade.

Had another look, much confused (no pun).  Not really tech savvy, which why I didn't go DCC, last exhibition attended in 2019, saw 2 locos crash head on, on a single track branchline with operators frantically pressing all buttons to no avail!  And a complete waste of entrance money as most of DCC layouts just would not work properly.

[RAF96]

Whilst the 6000 unit can be renamed as a module (e.g. main loops or sidings) and for each circuit (e.g. inner loop, outer loop, top siding or goods yard), the 6010 module can only be renamed in toto (e.g. Points or Signal Lamps, or Lights and Turntable, etc), the individual channels (ports) cannot.

I will log it as a suggested improvement on the associated sticky topic on the Hornby forum. 

 

Edit : A bug has been noted on Android platforms in that the facility to change the PWM Frequency is missing - Settings > Edit Devices > HM6000-xxx 

OK on iOS platforms.

Logged on the Hornby forum as a bug.

Edited May 11, 2021 by RAF96
Logging a bug.

[Guest]

15 hours ago, RAF96 said:

.............Edit : A bug has been noted on Android platforms in that the facility to change the PWM Frequency is missing - Settings > Edit Devices > HM6000-xxx 

OK on iOS platforms.

Logged on the Hornby forum as a bug.

Oh dear, may have to forgo this for now as may take a while for updates to sort this and the other Android sound issues.

Edited May 11, 2021 by Guest

[The Johnster]

Hopefully fixable soon.  Mine works fine with all features on IOS, proving the concept, and it probably needs no more than a bit of tweaking for Android.  

[Limpley Stoker]

I’m using iOS on my iPhone XR.  My HM6k  stopped working yesterday’ - Bluetooth connected but no output.

 

I tried a factory reset, reprovisioning and reconnecting but still no output.

 

Hornby’s helpful troubleshooting guide recommended deleting the App and reloading. I did this and as soon as it opened it invited me to download a 'Hot Fix’   I did this and now it works fine. It’s good to know Hornby’s IT team are active!,

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 11, 2021 by Limpley Stoker

[The Johnster]

23 hours ago, confused said:

No worries, just couldn't get brain in gear last few days.

Been there, only in my case it's the last few decades...

[The Johnster]

3 hours ago, Limpley Stoker said:

I’m using iOS on my iPhone XR.  My HM6k  stopped working yesterday’ - Bluetooth connected but no output.

 

I tried a factory reset, reprovisioning and reconnecting but still no output.

 

Hornby’s helpful troubleshooting guide recommended deleting the App and reloading. I did this and as soon as it opened it invited me to download a 'Hot Fix’   I did this and now it works fine. It’s good to know Hornby’s IT team are active!,

 

 

 

 

 

 

Will check this out immedieately, thanks for the heads up, Limpley.

[The Johnster]

No issue here, so far so good...

[RAF96]

Please note the quick start user guide for the HM6010 has been updated to correct a wiring error when connecting street lights. 

The updated manual can be found here https://support.Hornby.com/hc/en-gb/sections/360005606180-HM-DC

 

[Grafarman]

Help Please!

Just pre-ordered mine from Hattons as they seem to be the cheapest option!

Question - should I go for the 1amp or 4amp power supply?

Anyone used the 4amp yet?

I wasn't sure what the difference is supposed to be so I rang Hornby; they said the 4amp is for large layouts where there might be a need for a stronger signal, but for my garage-sized roundy layout 1amp should suffice, but they couldn't say for sure. 

(They also said that the 4amp would power O gauge locos but I'm not sure it's a good idea as the feedback circuitry might damage them...any thoughts?)

Hattons said they won't exchange power supplies once used, so I really need to know before buying!

 

Thank you

 

David

Edited May 21, 2021 by Grafarman
Omitted end of a sentence!

[The Johnster]

Do you often double-head trains or have locos with twin power bogies and motors, or have older locos that need a lot of current?  If not, the 1 amp power supply should suffice. I’d suggest the 1amp, which will get you up and running, and if you find yourself running out of power you can easily replace it with the 4 amp version.  It is more than enough for my BLT, but of course you may be operating faster, heavier, trains on gradients.  
 

To be fair to Hornby, they would not be able to say for sure without actually seeing your layout and the sort of stock you have on it.  The power units are the catch 22 of this system; 15vdc with the correct plug for the socket on the HM6000 unit seems only to be available from Hornby at £30 a pop, and you will need one for each HM6000 and HM6010 accessory unit if you go down that road. 

[Grafarman]

18 minutes ago, The Johnster said:

Do you often double-head trains or have locos with twin power bogies and motors, or have older locos that need a lot of current?  If not, the 1 amp power supply should suffice. I’d suggest the 1amp, which will get you up and running, and if you find yourself running out of power you can easily replace it with the 4 amp version.  It is more than enough for my BLT, but of course you may be operating faster, heavier, trains on gradients.  
 

To be fair to Hornby, they would not be able to say for sure without actually seeing your layout and the sort of stock you have on it.  The power units are the catch 22 of this system; 15vdc with the correct plug for the socket on the HM6000 unit seems only to be available from Hornby at £30 a pop, and you will need one for each HM6000 and HM6010 accessory unit if you go down that road. 

 

Thank you for this; my trains are limited (by choice) to loco & 7 coaches, so unlikely to draw that much power, in which case your suggestion is a good one...

The 1amp supply is currently £18 at Hattons so I'll go with that and see what happens. 

 

Many thanks

 

David 

[RAF96]

There is a Scalextric 15v power unit P9603 that puts out 1.2A so a possible semi-boost, however Hornby are working on a power splitter that will allow the 4-Amp power supply (used by the Elite) to power up to four modules.

I disagree with the Hornby help desk answers, e.g.

1. Stronger signal? Absolute nonsense.

2. O gauge locos? The power unit to track interface (i.e. 6000 module) is the limiting factor here as the loco will attempt to draw what it needs and if the module cannot provide this it will trip regardless lf which power unit is in use.

 

[The Johnster]

I wonder if the 'signal' comment was to do with help desk person thinking that a more powerful PSU for the unit would give a stronger Bluetooth signal from the unit to the smartphone/tablet.  Nonsense no doubt, the operating range will be what it is, and the BT circuitry inside the HM6000 unit is probably working from a voltage set to a value irrespective of the input amps.  I regard BT as effectively line of sight, but in fact my HM6000 can paired or 'depaired' from the next room.  Line of sight is essential to drive a train anyway, of course, unless you are doing it over a video connention...

[drt7uk]

Hello,

 

Is there any reason why this wouldn't work with N Gauge locomotives? I have both an OO and an N layout and when I've connected to my N, the locos make a 'buzz' sound at low/start speed which my locos don't make with the normal controller. They run fine otherwise (i.e. at normal running speed).

 

I'm assuming the buzzing is the motor struggling to turn as it doesn't have enough electricity at that point. Just worry about straining them. Don't have this issue when starting or braking with my usual Kato controller.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

David

Edited May 22, 2021 by drt7uk

[RAF96]

15 hours ago, drt7uk said:

Hello,

 

Is there any reason why this wouldn't work with N Gauge locomotives? I have both an OO and an N layout and when I've connected to my N, the locos make a 'buzz' sound at low/start speed which my locos don't make with the normal controller. They run fine otherwise (i.e. at normal running speed).

 

I'm assuming the buzzing is the motor struggling to turn as it doesn't have enough electricity at that point. Just worry about straining them. Don't have this issue when starting or braking with my usual Kato controller.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

David

 

It will work fine for any scale as long as the required output is within the capability of the module.

As advised in previous posts try altering the PWM frequency. This alters the motor noise versus controllability.

[drt7uk]

2 hours ago, RAF96 said:

 

It will work fine for any scale as long as the required output is within the capability of the module.

As advised in previous posts try altering the PWM frequency. This alters the motor noise versus controllability.

 

Thanks, unfortunately those PWM settings don't appear to be there when connecting using 'Standard BLE'...I can't get my phone to use the Mesh connection for some reason. But aside from the noise (which isn't ideal but I can live with it), you don't think it'll do any damage/strain the loco motors then?

[drt7uk]

On 08/05/2021 at 20:58, DK123GWR said:

To collate information from everybody's favourite carpet-based model railway YouTube channel for the benefit of readers here (who may not be part of that channel's target audience) there is a setting in the app which allows you to change the PWM frequency, with settings ranging from a default of around 60Hz to a maximum of 8kHz. His opinion (clearly backed up by the video) was that at low frequencies locomotives were noisy but very controllable at low speeds. At high frequencies, locos ran much more quietly, but at the expense of low speed performance. Knowing that you prioritise smooth low-speed control I imagine that you will prefer the default lower frequencies, but for those running mainline layouts with high speeds a higher frequency may be more suitable.

 

17:35 for reference.

 

 

 

Ah have just noticed someone say that PWM is missing in some devices' settings is a bug on Android as not appearing. Sure Hornby will fix it soon.

Edited May 23, 2021 by drt7uk

[The Johnster]

PWM, pulse width modulation, is a method of sending larger voltages to the loco in very short bursts, so that a high current is available but slow control is improved.  The motors don't like it much and will generate a buzz and a little more heat than normal but will not be damaged in normal use, or at all unless the PWM is used for long continuous periods.  In the HM6000, it is the means by which the accelleration and decelleration 'inertia' works, and as this reduces the PWM over a few seconds as the loco starts and then runs up to it's controlled speed, or runs down to a stop, this is not a major consideration.  Good practice on stopping would be to click on the 'stop' button once the loco has stopped moving, as this will eliminate the buzzing noise.  A very fine degree of slow control and smooth stops and starts can be achieved with it, but if you are not familiar with this method of control you will need to learn the best technique for each of your locos!

[Grafarman]

HM6000 arrived this morning,  and all good so far.

Took about 5 minutes to set up; I left off the inertia settings for the time being, and found it to be smooth and responsive. 

The 'brake/stop' feature is nice and makes it easy to reduce speed and stop on point without precision slider control.

No problem with power consistency across my garage-sized layout; in fact it seemed slightly better in that respect than my old Gaugemaster. 

The sounds are a bit gimmicky as noted previously,  but I kept them at low volume and that way they created a useful and unobtrusive background noise.

In case anyone is worried about whether their device is up to spec, I'm using an old Samsung S2 tablet which runs Android 7, and so far it's handling it quite easily, and the slider response is 'grabby' and not super-smooth which gives a good feel when operating. 

Good fun and nice control; looking forward to eventual sound and feature updates. 

 

David

 

[Guest]

Decided to stick with GM, so bought their panel mount simulator controller 'U' new, direct from GM.  Mounted it in a frame to use as a Hand Held, or on control panel, as in photos, able to source 'sounds' so not a big issue.  Superb, esp with my Baccy. 94xx.

[drt7uk]

Anyone else find the way you connect a bit clunky? It seems a bit odd to me that you have to go into settings, device connectivity, then connect that way.

 

Given that is the first thing you need to do each time you turn on the train set, why is there not a big button on the homepage for the same thing, am I missing something?

[The Johnster]

A big button would simplify matters but there may be issues with the pairing, or mesh provisioning as Hornby calls it, that mean you have to go through the ritual.  Tbh it's become an established routine for me and I scarcely notice doing it!  My other bluetooth connected devices pair automatically when I turn them on, though.

 

I have found that the HM6000 will register a short circuit if I have not centred the direction switch on my old Gaugmaster power controller, even when the knob is at zero, and that the Gaugemaster will trigger it's overload cutout mechanism as if there is a short circuit with the HM6000 connected to the mains, even when they are connected to different and isolated circuits and the HM6000 is 'unprovisioned', but only in one direction; the other direction is fine!  Odd, but nothing I can't work around and learn to live with.

Edited June 8, 2021 by The Johnster

[RAF96]

Provisioning and connecting are two separate actions.

Analogy - I pair my phone with the car initially and this pairing persists even when I walk away from the car. Each time I get in the car the phone auto connects to it.

HM|DC is the same except one has to connect the modules manually each time one visits the app if the modules have been powered down. I inadvertently left the modules running when called away and when I went back two days later and opened the app all I had to do was hit the resume command control or whatever the button says  - its different depending upon which screen you are on.

I agree auto-connect/reconnect would be a good improvement.

 

Edit: Added to the Hornby HM | DC Forum list.

 

Edited June 9, 2021 by RAF96
Edit: As shown.

[Grafarman]

I called Hornby about this and was told it was fine to leave the HM6000 on 24/7, and the reconnection part of the App was designed around this premise.

I dunno, I guess my TV/Box remains on permanently so why not this unit, but I always feel apprehensive about leaving electrical items on when I'm not in the room, so for now I do the re-setup described above...it only takes a couple of minutes, after all...

 

David