Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.

[Mark Saunders]

1 hour ago, PenrithBeacon said:

You had already intimated your willingness to sell the chassis, I  merely picked up on that. Anyway, no deal then, not a problem.

Please put a stop this handbags at 15 paces and get back on topic

[Barclay]

19 hours ago, Ruston said:

It'll be reyt.

 

I did a bit more.

 

In other news, I got this from ebay and for what I think was a very reasonable sum.

It is a 1906 16-inch Barclay, made from the Mercian kit and some apparent scratchbuilding. It came with all the parts to finish and what has been done is to a good standard. The downside is that it's P4.

 

OO frame stretchers are in among the parts that came with it, so it wouldn't be that difficult to regauge if it wasn't for the old type of HL Lololoader gearbox, with the loctited final drive gear. It's not that much of a problem and the axle can be chopped to get it out and a new type final drive gear fitted when it is re-wheeled.

 

Or I could build a new frame and use only the cylinders/slide bar/crosshead/driving rod assemblies, then perhaps sell the running chassis to a P4'er?

Would this work? If you are replacing the frame stretchers (obviously) then presumably you wouldn't have to cut the driven axle to get it out, you'd just pull the frames off of it? Then you could just cut the ends off the axle without disturbing the gear until it is the correct length for 00. Then re-build the chassis around it?

 

[Ruston]

4 hours ago, Barclay said:

Would this work? If you are replacing the frame stretchers (obviously) then presumably you wouldn't have to cut the driven axle to get it out, you'd just pull the frames off of it? Then you could just cut the ends off the axle without disturbing the gear until it is the correct length for 00. Then re-build the chassis around it?

 

On just about any other build it would work, because I'd be using Gibson wheels. For once I'll be using Markits wheels and so the axle has to be replaced. Those Gibson wheels that are on it make it look like it's on tiptoes as they're oversize and Markits do the correct size in a Barclay type wheel.

It's going to need a complete new chassis in any case. Having looked into it, the frame plates are wrong on the model. The kit was either supplied with the wrong ones, or there was a choice and the builder picked the wrong ones. Those on it are for the later type of Barclay, with the frames that are the same depth all the way along. They should sweep upward to be only buffer beam depth at the ends.

 

I'll make completely new frame plates and stretchers ,with a new gearbox and motor. I'll use the cylinders etc.  rods, and bottom of the boiler, (which is attached to the chassis). The existing frames can be scrapped and the motor and gearbox salvaged for use in a future build that does use Gibson wheels and axles.

[DanInHisDen]

Does anyone know where I can get custom oo scale builders / works plates?

No one seems to do them with a custom company on them.

 

Thanks,

Dan

[Moxy]

7 hours ago, Daniel Gee said:

Does anyone know where I can get custom oo scale builders / works plates?

No one seems to do them with a custom company on them.

 

Thanks,

Dan

 

 Light Railway Stores offer them. 

 

Even if the exact style you want isn't shown there, they have been known to produce bespoke etchings in the past.

Edited August 7, 2021 by Moxy
Clarity

[Ruston]

The body is ready for paint.

Edited April 2, 2022 by Ruston

[Ruston]

I intended to paint this one as an actual prototype. It was going to be finished as one of the last survivors of the Parkgate iron works fleet that ended up at UES Aldwarke, in all-over black and yellow stripes. I'm afraid that masking it around all the hand rails and door handles, on the engine casing, was simply too much for me and I gave up and went for another fictional livery. I'd got the cab masked off, so I left that part.

 

 

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by Ruston

[Michael Edge]

Very nice Dave, it was worth doing the Parkgate cab back (included in all the kits now).

[Ruston]

The next victim.

I have a photo in my collection of a 1930-built Barclay, at Provan gasworks. Like the one above, it is a 16-inch type but, also like the one above, it has the smaller tank. It also has a dropped footplate, a cut-down chimney, and the safety valves have been relocated to just behind the chimney. The sides of the cylinder wrappers have been flattened out, presumably due to tight clearances. Basically, I intend to chop this up to become a gasworks engine.

Edited April 2, 2022 by Ruston

[Sandhole]

22 hours ago, Ruston said:

The next victim.

I have a photo in my collection of a 1930-built Barclay, at Provan gasworks. Like the one above, it is a 16-inch type but, also like the one above, it has the smaller tank. It also has a dropped footplate, a cut-down chimney, and the safety valves have been relocated to just behind the chimney. The sides of the cylinder wrappers have been flattened out, presumably due to tight clearances. Basically, I intend to chop this up to become a gasworks engine.

Having known this lady, intimately, I think Coachbogie could be right, the blue is too light.
See my previous posts.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with this, Dave.
Chris.

[Ruston]

On 13/08/2021 at 14:31, Sandhole said:

Looking forward to seeing what you do with this, Dave.
Chris.

It's back in its box for now. I have got myself a High Level gearbox and as I now have everything I need to build it, I've pulled the Impetus Fowler 422 Class out of the stash and will build that, next.

I made a start, just after I finished my tea, today. The cab on these has to be soldered on to the running plate, but it would make fitting DCC sound easier if it was removable, in the style of Mike's kits, so I may make a baseplate to allow it to be fixed with screws. There's not a lot of space under that resin engine casing and something, probably the stay alive, will need to go in the cab if there's to be any space left to add weight.

 

Here's one that I built over 30 years ago. Most of it was glued together then, but it underwent a rebuild, where solder was used and a new motor fitted. It was a nice runner, but the size of the motor, and the fact that I couldn't get the lead out of the engine casing to make space for the DCC gear, meant it was sold. It now resides with Chris (Sandhole).

Edited April 2, 2022 by Ruston

[5050]

I made my cab removable with a full floor and soldered nuts.  I think the bonnet is located on the cab front with wire pins and screwed to the footplate at the front. Makes painting a lot simpler!  I also made the handrail assembly at the rear out of brass wire, using the etched one as a pattern.  Have a look for my thread on the build - but it's a lot longer ago than you might think!

[Sandhole]

2 hours ago, Ruston said:

It's back in its box for now. I have got myself a High Level gearbox and as I now have everything I need to build it, I've pulled the Impetus Fowler 422 Class out of the stash and will build that, next.

I made a start, just after I finished my tea, today. The cab on these has to be soldered on to the running plate, but it would make fitting DCC sound easier if it was removable, in the style of Mike's kits, so I may make a baseplate to allow it to be fixed with screws. There's not a lot of space under that resin engine casing and something, probably the stay alive, will need to go in the cab if there's to be any space left to add weight.

 

Here's one that I built over 30 years ago. Most of it was glued together then, but it underwent a rebuild, where solder was used and a new motor fitted. It was a nice runner, but the size of the motor, and the fact that I couldn't get the lead out of the engine casing to make space for the DCC gear, meant it was sold. It now resides with Chris (Sandhole).

She's earning her keep on the low level on my train set, shunting grain wagons and vans.

Regards,
Chris

 

[Sandhole]

Dave, 
Could you use the Hornby Ruston 48 chassis under a body for a Yardmaster?
Chris.

[Ruston]

13 hours ago, Sandhole said:

Dave, 
Could you use the Hornby Ruston 48 chassis under a body for a Yardmaster?
Chris.

As long as it would fit under the engine casing you could and I would imagine that it would fit. As the skirts hide the wheels, no one would ever see if the wheel diameter and wheelbase matched or not. The biggest problem with building a Yardmaster is the lack of any drawings.

 

There is one extant, at the Lincs. Wolds Railway. If we could get permission to go over it with a tape measure then that would be a start.

[Sandhole]

49 minutes ago, Ruston said:

As long as it would fit under the engine casing you could and I would imagine that it would fit. As the skirts hide the wheels, no one would ever see if the wheel diameter and wheelbase matched or not. The biggest problem with building a Yardmaster is the lack of any drawings.

 

There is one extant, at the Lincs. Wolds Railway. If we could get permission to go over it with a tape measure then that would be a start.

Thanks Dave.
You answered my next question, that would have been about drawings.
Chris.

 

[Ruston]

I have done some more work on the Impetus Fowler.

 

I am fitting a High Level Roadrunner gearbox. I may have been able to get it in without cutting anything, if I had it arranged to drive the front axle, but I want it to drive the rear axle. The reason being that I think it better to have the driven axle as close to the jackshaft as possible. It will all remain hidden, and won't be visible at all in the cab anyway, so the extra work is worth doing and has no downside.

 

The cab, cab floor, engine casing, and running plate have all had sections cut out to accommodate the gearbox. I have assembled the frames and have used the EM spacers, rather than the OO ones. The OO spacers are ridiculously narrow and using the EM ones still gives sufficient gap between the frames and the back-to-back measurement of Gibson wheels.

The engine casing walls are quite thick, but I reckon there is just enough space to fit a sound decoder if it is sited on top of the motor.

The SA and speaker can go inside the cab and remain well below window level. Due to glazing reflections, and the viewing angle through the windows, they won't be noticeable.

 

I'm already thinking about the sound project. These Fowlers had engines from various manufacturers, including Leyland and Rolls Royce, so as they are also hydraulics, with Twin Disc drive, the Sentinel project (Rolls Royce) could suit. I've already got a couple of other engines with that, so for a change, and because I don't ever intend to have a BR Class 14, I may fit Class 14 sound.

Edited April 2, 2022 by Ruston

[Ruston]

You need to have more than one project on the go, right?

 

This poor unfortunate lost a fight with an Xacto saw. Kinda reminds me of the scene in the movie, where Hannibal Lecter cuts off the top of Ray Liotta's skull.

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by Ruston

[Ruston]

D2057 as Grimethorpe colliery No.1.

Edited April 2, 2022 by Ruston

[Ruston]

Lights, couplings and a little more weathering required.

The huge air cleaner on the side is part of the flameproofing equipment. This, and the cut-down roof, are something that was done before NCB ownership, maybe by BR. D2057 and D2093 both received the same treatment for shunting Shell Mex on Teesside. D2093 went on to become Grimethorpe No.2. No.2's cab roof wasn't quite so flat.

Edited April 3, 2022 by Ruston

[Ruston]

Well, that was easy enough. There is an attraction to RTR and the fact that someone else has done all the hard work already. I'll call this one finished now.

 

I'm still pondering on where to put all the DCC gear, and leave enough space for weight, in the Fowler diesel. I may pick that one up again, or have a go at the Barclay next.

Edited April 3, 2022 by Ruston

[Ruston]

I decided to crack on with the Fowler. I've got two of someone else's Barclays to fit with sound and stay alives, so I may as well do my own Barclay work at the same time, after the Fowler.

 

I fixed the cab in place. With it being on a false floor, and the control desk taking up space inside, I didn't see much advantage in having it removable as access to fit the glazing from below would be difficult. I have rolled the roof and folded down the sides into a neat fit so that all that will be required is a smear of epoxy at the sides and a couple of tiny solder runs at the top of the curve, after paint and glazing. The solder can be painted over afterwards. Alternatively, I may put in a fore and aft brace across the top of the cab that will allow the roof to be held on by a screw, disguised as a roof-mounted beacon.

The control desk is full of lead sheet, as is the gap between the running plate and false floor. The back of the veranda floor had a section that was folded down, but it was too tall to allow the assembly to sit flat on the running plate, so it has been removed. I'm not sure it's needed at all as the part with the rear handrails goes over the gap that has been left.

 

Edited April 3, 2022 by Ruston

[Ruston 48DS]

Ruston it's great looking through your posts and enjoying your loco build and kit bashing.

[sir douglas]

this could get a bit confusing

[F-UnitMad]

1 hour ago, sir douglas said:

this could get a bit confusing

And over there, too....