Jump to content

Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.


Recommended Posts

The etched brass.

Pi165-007.jpg.e0c9575e5ee99f52097b9248947ad106.jpg

 

I have got almost all the etched panels fitted.

yepl-004.jpg.3a2d527d787f331b1517d2d028c4bbd2.jpg

I used superglue gel for all but the rad grille which is fixed with epoxy. This took a lot of adjustment to position just right, so I wanted an adhesive that gave time for this as there is no means whatsoeverof positively locating it. There are two grilles on the fret and I initially thought that one was a smaller inner that would locate the outer if soldered back-to-back, but they are both the same size and with screw detail. I have no idea why there are two and the instructions don't mention it.

 

The cab steps fit into a slot in the underside of the running plate but this is going to be a very weak joint, so I glued a piece of plastruct to the back to reinforce it and give a larger surface area for the glue to grab.

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

More progress on the kit.

 

I have all the handrails fitted but the knobs provided are all the same length. All are probably too long but I suppose they won't look too bad when it's finished, except for those on the front of the engine casing - here, they would overhang too far and look ridiculous, so I have replaced them with some short ones from my stash of parts.

165build-001.jpg.7e4085d5fc1e57570044d81d478b4418.jpg

I have also fitted the brass overlays on the Peckett chassis, and the 3D printed weight blocks to it.  Other added parts are the strengthening plates at the bottom of the buffer beams have also been fitted.

 

The instructions say these should only be fitted "only once you no longer need to remove the chassis, as they make it captive". That's just silly! For one thing, I don't want to have to paint the body with the chassis fitted and, for another, how are you supposed to get to the insides to lubricate anything?

 

It's quite easy to get around this by cutting a section out before folding them over and soldering them on, but why not simply make the etches with the cut out to begin with? The photo, below, shows the rear one after cutting and fitting. The front one didn't require any alteration.

165build-002.jpg.d7a783655fde07e80daa85e736fd764c.jpg

The chassis is screwed in using 10BA screws. The tube that can be seen in an earlier pic really isn't up to having a self-tapper screwed in and it collapsed. If instead of a tube, the area for the screw was a solid block of print, it may have been OK but it isn't. I ran a tap through the print to cut threads into it for the 10BA screws. They may have cut in themselves but I didn't want to risk forcing anything.

 

So far, I do like the kit, and is is quite good, but it's almost as if I'm doing a test-build and these niggling problems really ought to have been addressed by the designer before the kit was released.

  • Like 7
  • Informative/Useful 3
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

More progress with the Planet Industrials kit build.

 

It is almost all together now. I have drilled a hole in the bonnet and fitted a short length of brass tube as the exhaust pipe. Buffers have been fitted (these must be sourced separately and do not come with the kit), and it has been given a lick of paint.

 

165DEbuild-005.jpg.4ad4d2a36d7a75f19f946e2d66b343c0.jpg

The RH/BTH plates have been painted and fitted - annoyingly, these are etched in brass but really ought to be nickel silver as the prototypes were aluminium alloy. The driving rods on the Peckett chassis have gib and cotters but these Rustons had quite substantial rods that did not have gib and cotters. I felt this looked wrong and so have made new rods.

 

The above loco is being built for someone else but I do have one of these kits for myself. Buying a Hornby Peckett, just to use the chassis, goes against my Yorkshireness, so my own loco will have this scratchbuilt chassis.

165DEbuild-001.jpg.007afcf53bd4b116da7934b84c423528.jpg

It is powered by an inexpensive Chinese N20 motor, coupled to a High Level Roadrunner 60:1 gearbox. The wheelbase on these locomotives was 5ft, 9in and although the Peckett chassis is only 1mm out, I reckoned that I may as well make mine to the proper dimension, as it is being built from scratch. The wheels will be Gibson's 3ft. 3in. Garratt wheels.

 

165DEbuild-004.jpg.35cb91ae5fad1c83d0e24b81778adca8.jpg

I have made the fixing holes elongated, so there is no problem lining it up to the screw holes in the body. The lower stretcher has holes for wires to pass through, from the pickups to the motor (or decoder) and a central hole that will be tapped 10BA to fix the copper-clad paxolin for the pickups.

165DEbuild-006.jpg.e1707615752414986d333a1242bd6397.jpg

I found a turned brass air horn in my spares box, so have fitted it as no such thing is provided in the kit. the headlight is from RT Models.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 13
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, Barclay said:

Those chevrons look excellent - how do you do yours?

I made them myself. I drew up the design, using Photoshop, and printed them onto waterslide decal paper. The yellow is printed but I also painted the entire buffer beam yellow as a backing colour. If you want some, I can send you the file so you can make your own.

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Ruston said:

I made them myself. I drew up the design, using Photoshop, and printed them onto waterslide decal paper. The yellow is printed but I also painted the entire buffer beam yellow as a backing colour. If you want some, I can send you the file so you can make your own.

Thanks I'd like to try. Will PM you.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Time to fit the brakes to the Peckett-chassied one.

 

There are four blocks/hangers provided but no mention in the instructions of how they are supposed to be fitted. It would appear that holes need to be drilled in the chassis. A loating hole through the etched overlay would have been useful to indicate where to drill.

165parts-001.jpg.406b467b08c494ff223d93cc5d5ec34c.jpg

 

165parts-003.jpg.b15cd3e679ab23465c39a4ac4ab2b339.jpg

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

Very nice outcome. I'd like to make one with the flat fronted cab but not sure if they have plans to make that version available.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Corbs said:

Very nice outcome. I'd like to make one with the flat fronted cab but not sure if they have plans to make that version available.

There's the Judith Edge kit for that one.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Next in the works is a kit that I acquired a couple of years ago and started some time last year.

 

It is the Craftsman kit for the British Railways 170HP Yorkshire Engine Co. 0-4-0DH a.k.a Class 02. I have been looking into converting it to one of Yorkshire's industrial locos and I now know the major changes that are needed to make it as near as possible to either an industrial diesel-hydraulic, or a diesel electric. I don't think that I'll be able to get it exactly right but it should end up looking more like an industrial than an 02. The first thing will be to cut out the valances and replace them with new parts of the correct profile. The second, and more difficult task, is to remove the cab and lower it by as much as 3mm.

 

The buffer beams need to be reprofiled and the buffers will have to be raised on the beams. The Craftsman kit, and indeed the DJH kit of the 02, were designed for and supplied with 14mm (3ft. 6in.) Romford wheels but the wheel diameter of the prototype was 3ft. 3in. I have used Gibson wheels of the correct diameter.

 

DSCF7133.JPG.0d82257f6cca7b3cebc0e44b21bb320b.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

I built one of those a very long time ago, but didn’t quite finish it - it just needs couplings fitting and the roof glueing on.  I got stuck as I couldn’t find a way of adding tension lock couplings.  I’m now using kadees so need a way to fit them.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ruston said:

Next in the works is a kit that I acquired a couple of years ago and started some time last year.

 

It is the Craftsman kit for the British Railways 170HP Yorkshire Engine Co. 0-4-0DH a.k.a Class 02. I have been looking into converting it to one of Yorkshire's industrial locos and I now know the major changes that are needed to make it as near as possible to either an industrial diesel-hydraulic, or a diesel electric. I don't think that I'll be able to get it exactly right but it should end up looking more like an industrial than an 02. The first thing will be to cut out the valances and replace them with new parts of the correct profile. The second, and more difficult task, is to remove the cab and lower it by as much as 3mm.

 

The buffer beams need to be reprofiled and the buffers will have to be raised on the beams. The Craftsman kit, and indeed the DJH kit of the 02, were designed for and supplied with 14mm (3ft. 6in.) Romford wheels but the wheel diameter of the prototype was 3ft. 3in. I have used Gibson wheels of the correct diameter.

 

DSCF7133.JPG.0d82257f6cca7b3cebc0e44b21bb320b.JPG

I bought a completed DJH kit in a fictitious BR livery but with homemade P4 wheels of ebay. After doing a fair amount of research I found that it wasn't possible to have it in a correct BR form because the builder had omitted the footwell handrails which could only be added before final assembly of what is a beginners kit. Much gnashing and wailing ensued. When I get around to it I'll do it as an industrial but it will need a scratch built chassis. 

Are those Sharman wheels you're using?

Link to post
Share on other sites

That didn't go as well as I had hoped. I made up and fitted the rods and made and fitted some pickups. I had tested the motor/drive by putting wires to it from a DC controller and holding the frames in my fingers, where it seemed to run smoothly enough. I fitted a plain non-sound decoder that I keep for testing purposes and put it on the track. Apart from the whining of all those little metal gears (which I had forgotten that these N20 gearmotors make), there is a grating noise. It's definitely coming from the bevel gears. I don't know if I can be bothered faffing with it. I may just pull the wheels off and take the N20 out, and wait until High Level gearboxes are available again.

 

Cab lowered but not yet fixed.

Craftsman02-3.jpg.f88bbbb7e0f8935d5259bad28421dfc8.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

It now has new valances. The sandboxes are exposed on this type, so I will have to make some. They are the same as on DE2 and Janus locomotives.

Craftsman02-4.jpg.dd0def02581de71d6cb180e3cf534877.jpg

 

I decided to have a go with the N20 after all. It seems that the motor was coming loose from the gearbox and I am sure that was part of the problem. I also shifted the bevel drive gear back slightly on the output shaft of the gearbox and it now runs much better. With lead sheet sandwiching the motor.gearbox, and the body on, it doesn't sound quite so noisy either. It's never going to be quiet, with those straight-cut metal gears, but it may be tolerable. I will only really know once DCC sound is installed.

 

Craftsman02-5.jpg.9e33f1a8f85d017937912994ce3bedc9.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to the Rustons that have been built from Planet Industrials kits.

 

My own model is now ready for service. The Zimo MX648 decoder is fitted above the motor, with the stay alive on loose wires so that it fits in the front of the engine casing. The speaker is between the frames at the rear and is a Youchoos Sugarcube7. This is a little too deep and the wires can be seen below frame level, but this is only a temporary fit and will be replaced by a S5, which will be shallow enough as to not be seen at all.

165s-003.jpg.7f60ffe4a9121d67d74a49ed48f91d48.jpg

 

165s-007.jpg.093d6771f5ca722488622d6f904d67e6.jpg

 

165s-015.jpg.c90e78295ec514b1ca3a1598cf2bdf97.jpg

It would have been easier to use the Hornby Peckett chassis that the kit is designed for, but it would be a very expensive finished item, at £80 for the kit, plus at least another £80 for the Peckett.

 

 

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
36 minutes ago, Ruston said:

Back to the Rustons that have been built from Planet Industrials kits.

 

My own model is now ready for service. The Zimo MX648 decoder is fitted above the motor, with the stay alive on loose wires so that it fits in the front of the engine casing. The speaker is between the frames at the rear and is a Youchoos Sugarcube7. This is a little too deep and the wires can be seen below frame level, but this is only a temporary fit and will be replaced by a S5, which will be shallow enough as to not be seen at all.

165s-003.jpg.7f60ffe4a9121d67d74a49ed48f91d48.jpg

 

165s-007.jpg.093d6771f5ca722488622d6f904d67e6.jpg

 

165s-015.jpg.c90e78295ec514b1ca3a1598cf2bdf97.jpg

It would have been easier to use the Hornby Peckett chassis that the kit is designed for, but it would be a very expensive finished item, at £80 for the kit, plus at least another £80 for the Peckett.

 

 

Rails have them at £69.50 just now, I bought one on impulse, now have 3 different pecketts!

 

https://railsofsheffield.com/products/33985/Hornby-r3640-oo-gauge-peckett-w4-nicausse-willans-and-robinson-0-4-0-tank-locomotive-no-88

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.