Ruston's Industrial locomotive and wagon workshop thread.

[Ruston]

36 minutes ago, 03060 said:

Very neat Dave, can I ask what you use for the milling, please.

 

Regards,

Ian.

A very small Proxxon milling machine.

[Ruston]

The stay alive, speaker, and decoder are all fitted and working.

[Ruston]

This was originally "Katie", which has the open-backed cab. I grafted in a section of a spare cab.

 

I made some deep buffer beams from nickel silver sheet and fitted some Workington-style buffers (RT Models castings)

The chimney has been shortened and the safey valves changed to 'pop' type.

 

 

[Barclay]

Love the running plate 'accessories'.

[Ian Blenk]

Hi Dave,

Very nice! I wonder if you could say a bit about the motor change? Has it made a difference? I am busy with Naworth No.6 and have wondered about swapping the motor, but the Hatton's one runs OK.

 

Thanks again for the inspiration

 

Ian B

[03060]

Wonderfully workstained, Dave ! 

[Ruston]

2 hours ago, Ian Blenk said:

Hi Dave,

Very nice! I wonder if you could say a bit about the motor change? Has it made a difference? I am busy with Naworth No.6 and have wondered about swapping the motor, but the Hatton's one runs OK.

 

Thanks again for the inspiration

 

Ian B

It's a cheap Chinese 10/15 with a 1mm shaft. I bought a batch from ebay and they have all been good, so far. I've used a spare worm from a High Level Loloader gearbox and have simply mounted the motor on rectangles of plasticard to bring it up to the right height to mesh with the existing loco gears.

 

All of this work has also freed up space to add another 25g of weight for extra traction.

[Sandhole]

16 hours ago, Ruston said:

This was originally "Katie", which has the open-backed cab. I grafted in a section of a spare cab.

 

I made some deep buffer beams from nickel silver sheet and fitted some Workington-style buffers (RT Models castings)

The chimney has been shortened and the safey valves changed to 'pop' type.

 

 

That's the BIZ, Dave.
Are those RT buffers, they and the thicker buffer beams make the beast!
REgards,
Chris.

 

[Sandhole]

Just now, Sandhole said:

That's the BIZ, Dave.
Are those RT buffers, they and the thicker buffer beams make the beast!
REgards,
Chris.

 

Read the post properly, I see they are.

[sb67]

Love that! The weathering and stuff on the running plate all add to the atmosphere, superb! 

[Ian Blenk]

On 19/05/2021 at 13:27, Ruston said:

It's a cheap Chinese 10/15 with a 1mm shaft. I bought a batch from ebay and they have all been good, so far. I've used a spare worm from a High Level Loloader gearbox and have simply mounted the motor on rectangles of plasticard to bring it up to the right height to mesh with the existing loco gears.

 

All of this work has also freed up space to add another 25g of weight for extra traction.

Many thanks for that Dave, I have the parts, so will give it a go. What can possibly go wrong?

 

[Ruston]

The Brush-Bagnall diesel gets closer to being finished.

The basic structure of the cab is coming together. I have used the Class 08 roof and 40 thou. plasticard.

 

It has 4 rear windows, as on the NCB pair. The S&L pair had two larger windows.

[Ruston]

[AlfaZagato]

Somehow, the size of this wasn't evident to me away from other stock.   I'm not used to that sort-of notch in front of the cab on a loco so close to max height.

[5050]

On 25/03/2021 at 22:47, PenrithBeacon said:

Would a contact adhesive work?

It's what I've used David.  Good old Evostik.  Can't get used to 'superglue' for larger jobs, no time for adjustments in my experience.  However, I've not tried the 'gel' variety yet.  Does it take longer to 'set'?

 

Has anyone else started/finished a build of this kit yet?  This is my first 3D printed model and, I'm sorry to say, may well be my last.  To much faffing around cleaning up the 'layers' and scraping off white 'dust'.  Much prefer a soldering iron and etches.

Edited May 27, 2021 by 5050

[PenrithBeacon]

3 hours ago, 5050 said:

It's what I've used David.  Good old Evostik.  Can't get used to 'superglue' for larger jobs, no time for adjustments in my experience.  However, I've not tried the 'gel' variety yet.  Does it take longer to 'set'?

 

Has anyone else started/finished a build of this kit yet?  This is my first 3D printed model and, I'm sorry to say, may well be my last.  To much faffing around cleaning up the 'layers' and scraping off white 'dust'.  Much prefer a soldering iron and etches.

In my experience the gel variety of CA does take a while to cure. Too long in that experience! I suspect Evostik would be a lot better.

I have a 3D print of an NER 0-4-0T in stock and printed in a very fine plastic too. Just as an experiment I used a fibre brush on it, just to burnish more than anything else, and it came up just fine with a nice finish. I wouldn't like to say if it would work on the granular finish that so many 3D prints are done in though.

I'm still pi@@ed off that the Ruston is no longer available

[mike morley]

I have also found that the gel versions have quite a short shelf-life.  Worst so far is Gorilla, which went from gel to so thick it was extremely difficult to coax out of the bottle in about four months.

[Ruston]

I don't use gel cyano glue. I always the yellow-topped bottles of Javis cyano glue. It is controllable coming out of the bottle and gives more time than the watery stuff for adjusting fit, but doesn't take as long as gel to go off. http://javis.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage_norm&product_id=1144&category_id=340&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2

[Ruston]

Because the Bachmann motor is so large, and fills the available space, I have had to re-motor the Brush-Bagnall in order to be able to fit DCC sound. The fitting is almost the same as how I did it on my Class 08.

The motor was prised out of its cradle and the cradle sawn down. The new motor is a 6-pole Chinese thing and was quite inexpesive. The one in the 08 has proved to be a smooth and powerful motor. The worm is a 0.5 module nylon type and was in a set of cheap nylon gears that I bought off ebay a few years ago. Rather than stack it on layers of plasticard, I have sat in on layers of lead flashing. The motor and layers are glued together using Devcon epoxy glue.

[AlfaZagato]

Is lead non-conductive?  I'm ignorant to such things.   Is there a chance of shorting, resting on a stack of lead like that?

 

More importantly, I see a d10.   RPGs?  Wargaming?  Curiosity?

[Ruston]

34 minutes ago, AlfaZagato said:

Is lead non-conductive?  I'm ignorant to such things.   Is there a chance of shorting, resting on a stack of lead like that?

 

More importantly, I see a d10.   RPGs?  Wargaming?  Curiosity?

I think it is conductive. It is a metal after all. It doesn't matter anyway  - what's going to short through it?

 

The D10 is for rolling the number of scrap wagons in a train. It has been used for wargaming, mostly Napoleonics and First World War aerial combat.

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Whilst we are on the subject of impact adhesive, is there a non stringing option these days?

 

Mike.

[5050]

2 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

Is lead non-conductive?  I'm ignorant to such things.   Is there a chance of shorting, resting on a stack of lead like that?

A brass/nickel silver loco kit chassis is conductive as are most proprietary ones.

[5050]

4 hours ago, Ruston said:

I don't use gel cyano glue. I always the yellow-topped bottles of Javis cyano glue. It is controllable coming out of the bottle and gives more time than the watery stuff for adjusting fit, but doesn't take as long as gel to go off. http://javis.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage_norm&product_id=1144&category_id=340&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2

I thought you said you used gel superglue to attach the etchings on the Ruston 165?

[Ruston]

20 hours ago, 5050 said:

I thought you said you used gel superglue to attach the etchings on the Ruston 165?

Superglue, cyano, it's all the same thing, isn't it?

 

And now for something less boring, instead.

 

It's had a test run on straight DC control and all seems well with the new motor. It's had some paint thrown at it and I have begun to glaze the cab. It's a slow process as I'm having to cut and file to shape individual panes of thick clear plastic. On etched kits I usually put a rought-cut sheet of thin clear plastic behind the windows, but with the cab walls being thick plasticard I've had to make indicidual panes so they can be made to hide the wall thickness. The cab isn't yet fixed in place on the body.

It doesn't have any brake gear and the Class 08 parts can't be used as the pull rods are on the outside of the wheels but are on the inside on the Brush. It also needs cab steps and new sandboxes to be made.

Some detail painting remains to be done and, of course, weathering. There are some more handrails and other details to add, too.

 

Edited May 29, 2021 by Ruston