brenn Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 23 hours ago, 33C said: Good luck, we're all counting on you.......First attempt... O no I used to get that train from school home out of Liverpool Street.....that’s a bad omen I best not try it in the shed just in case B 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 From the radical corner. Try the soldering iron. Carefully. The application of a little controlled heat may do the trick. Depends on how long the screw is and what it is threaded into. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 Problem with that is the screws are quite deeply recessed and I’d think I wouldn’t be able to get the tip down the hole without melting the plastic around it thank anyway for the suggestion B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 (edited) Looks like the drill then. Destroy* the head, remove body and extract the remainder of the screw with mole grips. * Carefully!!. Start with a 1 mm pilot in the centre of the screw head. Then increase the drill size until the head is spinning on the drill. Edited March 4, 2021 by doilum Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 Yeah I think your right The screw drivers turn up today and didn’t work so got the drill bits out.... I’ll have a crack tomorrow as I’m still dealing with the mountain of issues I found with the other stored locos I’m running in after a long time in storage. Today nightmares are a Hornby 101 which seems to have a binding gear which makes the bogie jump and a Hornby Britannia which is just dead......arghhh.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 One idea that sometimes works in a Phillips screw head that is damaged, is to use a flat blade screwdriver, but sharpen it a bit with a file to give it some extra bite. The problem with Bachmann screws is that the metal is rubbish, and it takes very little to start wearing away the heads. Thankfully I've never had a problem with a loco, but frequently have with their Mk1 coaches. These have three screws in the base, but at least are accessible and not in a tube. My usual answer has been to drill out, you don't need all three anyway when you re-assemble. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 5, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) Have you tried any one of the many penetrating lubricants that are available to see if it can help loosen the screw? Car spares shops sell plenty of different types. WD-40 and RP-90 are ones which come to mind. Failing that, freezing them with a special aerosol used to work on my motorcycles, but will probably make the plastic around it brittle. Another trick is to tap the screwdriver gently with a hammer while turning at the same time (basic principle of an impact driver) Good luck! with the drilling if you go down that road! Ian Edited March 5, 2021 by ianLMS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 5, 2021 Author Share Posted March 5, 2021 Update report 1 light fluid freezing didn’t work at all 2 Drill out the screw cause a screw to pop through the bonnet......argh..... It was very hard with a mini drill to see what was going on......drilling not ideal but I’ve just received a small extraction bit so that next on my list of how to mangle a professionally weather loco.....,,arghhhhh. I wouldn’t mind so much but I just sold a new version of the same loco recently. Oh well in for a penny and all that...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 This may sound brutal but it may be safer using a full size cordless drill. The extra torque gets the job done quickly with less chance of the bit wandering. Just make sure you have created a pilot for it to follow. This is best done by hand with a pin vice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted March 6, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 6, 2021 The screw that's gone through the bonnet; cut a slot in the exposed top and use a flat blade screwdriver to screw it back down where it came from and all the way out. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 8, 2021 Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 Update ive tried all the suggestions now with only the super gluing left. I can move the screws, which I don’t think are the original screws, but drilling them out has only mangled the body shell and will means that I have to completely rework how to refit it once chipped and serviced. The one thing I have learnt from the Dcc conversation I have embarked on recently is to test all the locos if I’ve bought them from eBay as soon as I can. I have found problems with every loco I have got through eBay or at auction in some way. The ease of chip fitting varied greatly depending on manufacturers and age of the loco with the recent Dapol loco being less hassle and I especially like to wired links to the lights as the Bachmann latched copper strips doesn’t always fit properly once the body put back. B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Super glue is the winner!!!!! I should have waited until the SG arrived but learnt the lesson now. The screw treads are shot on the body but not enlarged so now I’ve got the body off I’ll get new screws and blob of canopy glue down the hole when I attach the body. I found one of those nasty old Bachmann decoders which I can’t seem to get my Lenzs 100 to read any address as I just get the Err 02 message when I put it on the program track. This is a shame as I got 5 of these chips and I had this issue with all of them in different locos. When I do get the system to recognise the chip and program an address they revert back to 003. I’ve swap it out for a Dcc concept black and I must say the difference In running quality is amazing even with a stay alive. The screw that went through the body came out and the hole been filled but unfortunately it’s gone through the bonnet hatch bracket but I think I can hide it with weathering. Thanks to you all for your suggestions as I tried them all and the super glue on a cheap jeweller screw driver is definitely the way to go. I used rocket hot to coat the tip and pressed down for a minute then wound the screw with a little upwards pressure and they all came out easily. I think I may get the problem again so useful lesson learnt. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete smith Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 It was Clarkson and usual patter on Top Gear in Iceland. Seen it done on a tractor in the middle of a field using quick start? pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 On 08/03/2021 at 19:54, brenn said: Update ive tried all the suggestions now with only the super gluing left. I can move the screws, which I don’t think are the original screws, but drilling them out has only mangled the body shell and will means that I have to completely rework how to refit it once chipped and serviced. The one thing I have learnt from the Dcc conversation I have embarked on recently is to test all the locos if I’ve bought them from eBay as soon as I can. I have found problems with every loco I have got through eBay or at auction in some way. The ease of chip fitting varied greatly depending on manufacturers and age of the loco with the recent Dapol loco being less hassle and I especially like to wired links to the lights as the Bachmann latched copper strips doesn’t always fit properly once the body put back. B Remember, there's a reason it's in auction. If it was great, they would keep it.......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 On 13/03/2021 at 23:22, 33C said: Remember, there's a reason it's in auction. If it was great, they would keep it.......... Point taken, but any damage or fault should be listed or mention especially if it’s on line auction as by the time the commission and postage is taken in to account these prices didn’t reflect a reasonable value. E bay does require such issues to be discussed and I think auction sites should do the same especially if the don’t work out of the box as the price should reflect the risk of diy repair time and replacements costs. B B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 On 13/03/2021 at 23:12, Pete smith said: It was Clarkson and usual patter on Top Gear in Iceland. Seen it done on a tractor in the middle of a field using quick start? pete I don’t understand? B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 If you are going to drill out screws then the use of a left-handed drill is to be preferred. Often the drill will grab and actually wind the screw out however there is no chance that it will grab and wind the screw in - and through the bonnet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brenn Posted March 15, 2021 Author Share Posted March 15, 2021 1 hour ago, meil said: If you are going to drill out screws then the use of a left-handed drill is to be preferred. Often the drill will grab and actually wind the screw out however there is no chance that it will grab and wind the screw in - and through the bonnet! It to late for that.....lol I have filled the hole now and touched up the blue paint so hopefully it won’t be noticeable once weathered. I found drilling either with big or mini drill should be a very last resort as you can’t see or feel what’s happening with the screw due to the deep recess holes. Having tried all the suggestions drilling, lighter fluids, WD40, that the super glue option is the best, but take care to get only a little bit of glue on the tip and that the glue is a 20 seconds type to allow seating in what’s left of the screw tread. B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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