RMweb Premium 61656 Posted March 4, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 4, 2021 I have recently taken the plunge and attempted my first relivery project. Converting a Bachmann Mk2z BSO from Highland green and cream to BFK in Intercity mainline livery. I’ve made a reasonable start with painting the two greys and first class yellow. The white and red transfer (Fox) for the lining is giving me a slight headache. The transfers themselves are brilliant and I can get them straight (enough). I am struggling with the raised detail on the coach though. I hoped that I could let the transfer dry and then simply force the transfer down over the detail, possibly even cutting slightly with a sharp knife, but I’m having limited success. The photo shows the lining taught across the door handle, handrail and doorstop. Does anyone have a tip or trick to share for this? Or am I best to remove the lining, sand or trim the raised detail flush and then reapply the lining? All help gratefully received! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 (edited) On 04/03/2021 at 11:38, 61656 said: I have recently taken the plunge and attempted my first relivery project. Converting a Bachmann Mk2z BSO from Highland green and cream to BFK in Intercity mainline livery. I’ve made a reasonable start with painting the two greys and first class yellow. The white and red transfer (Fox) for the lining is giving me a slight headache. The transfers themselves are brilliant and I can get them straight (enough). I am struggling with the raised detail on the coach though. I hoped that I could let the transfer dry and then simply force the transfer down over the detail, possibly even cutting slightly with a sharp knife, but I’m having limited success. The photo shows the lining taught across the door handle, handrail and doorstop. Does anyone have a tip or trick to share for this? Or am I best to remove the lining, sand or trim the raised detail flush and then reapply the lining? All help gratefully received! Before removing the transfer lining. I'd suggest you first try using some "Micro Sol" on the areas it's not lying down properly. Apply a small amount to the problem areas with a brush and then LEAVE to dry without touching them further. The Micro Sol softens the transfer and helps it adhere better over raised detail etc. Applying some Micro Sol on the model prior to laying down any further lining will also help. Micro Sol is available from most Hobby shops/ eBay etc HTH Ken Edited March 5, 2021 by tractor_37260 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 61656 Posted March 5, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2021 19 minutes ago, tractor_37260 said: Before removing the transfer lining. I'd suggest you first try using some "Micro Sol" on the areas it's not lying down properly. Apply a small amount to the problem areas with a brush and then LEAVE to dry without touching them further. The Micro Sol softens the transfer and helps it adhere better over raised detail etc. Applying some Micro Sol on the model prior to laying down any further lining will also help. Micro Sol is available from most Hobby shops/ eBay etc HTH Ken Brilliant. Very much appreciated. Will microsol rescue the current lining or should I restart? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Darius43 Posted March 5, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2021 30 minutes ago, 61656 said: Brilliant. Very much appreciated. Will microsol rescue the current lining or should I restart? You apply it over the decal you have placed. No need to remove the current lining. The instructions are on the Micro Sol bottle. Cheers Darius 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 61656 Posted March 5, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2021 4 minutes ago, Darius43 said: You apply it over the decal you have placed. No need to remove the current lining. The instructions are on the Micro Sol bottle. Cheers Darius Isn’t RMweb just great? Thanks very much. Updates to follow.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
w124bob Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 I hate to bring up a potential issue but isn't the donor coach a vac brake example. Bachmann used the Mk2z designation on what were actually standard BR mk2's the Z was never used by BR. My 1988 numbers book shows just one Vacbrake example 17042 in IC livery . I assume this was used in the Bounds Green MK1 IC livery tour stock, there are no MK2a's in IC and just a handful of MK2c's . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 The 'Z' part is TOPS code for Mk.2 (though since a Mk.1 can be 1, it's odd a Mk.2 can't be 2). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 61656 Posted March 7, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 7, 2021 1 hour ago, BernardTPM said: The 'Z' part is TOPS code for Mk.2 (though since a Mk.1 can be 1, it's odd a Mk.2 can't be 2). That’s because of how the TOPS code is made up. The first 2 letters denote vehicle layout, in this case AB, for Gangwayed Corridor Brake. The third digit for the class, in this case 1 for First. Finally a suffix for relating to the mark. 1 is Mark 1, but since 2 would be ambiguous Z is Mk2, A is Mk2a, B is Mk2b etc. A Mk3a is G. This coach is AB1Z, of which 17037 and 17042 made Intercity Mainline livery in 86. Both were based at Carlisle and ran mainly in the motor-rail sets. 1 Mk2a, 17093 at Bounds Green was part of the charter set. 3 Mk2c’s, 17128, 17130 and 17134 were Oxley based and ran predominantly on WCML services, but also made regular runs on cross country services. This is mainly information from my Platform 5’s from 86 and 87, Flickr and Longworth. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) I know how TOPS works, but 1 looks more like I than 2 does Z, especially if written by hand. If you can accept one number in that position it's hard to see why you can't have another. That whole reasoning was/is unsound. Now if Mk.1s were given another letter instead of 1 that would be a different matter, it would be consistent then. I would suggest Y as that would keep things in order: YZABCDEFG... Regardless of that, it still doesn't justify the fallacious "Mk.2z". Edited March 7, 2021 by BernardTPM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 On 05/03/2021 at 16:12, 61656 said: Isn’t RMweb just great? Thanks very much. Updates to follow.. Getting back to the OT did you manage to sort the lining issues ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 61656 Posted March 13, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 13, 2021 1 hour ago, tractor_37260 said: Getting back to the OT did you manage to sort the lining issues ? Indeed. I’d say it’s turned out pretty good for a first attempt. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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