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Peco Double Slip repair


GEOEng03
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HI, 

 

I just wanted to see if anyone has had the same issue i have with regards to repairing the dropper wire for points.  IN this instance, one of the dropper feeds for my double slip has come off.  What is the best way of trying to rejoin this wire, or is there another part of the point that will allow the bus wire to connect.  

 

Cheers

 

51005681766_22faaa09bb_c.jpg20210305_105454 by Bryn Jones, on Flickr

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  • RMweb Gold

More than once!

 

Too much flexing of these droppers causes them to fracture. The solution is to tin the wires on the double slip, tin the end of a piece of bell wire, touch the two together and apply the soldering iron.

 

As long as you don't hold the soldering iron in place for too long the problem is solved. During manufacture, whatever method they use for attaching the wires through the plastic will resist melting from the heat of a 25w iron. In my experience!

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Thanks for this Mick.  Sorry, I had missed the reply.  

 

Sorry, i am trying to understand how what you are suggesting will allow the wires to reattach within the base of the point without melting such a large part of the under sleeper... I don't suppose you have any pictures do you? 

 

Agreed that the things are so flippin fragile. Barely touch it and it and then the second one fell off! 

Cheers

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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, GEOEng03 said:

 

Sorry, i am trying to understand how what you are suggesting will allow the wires to reattach within the base of the point without melting such a large part of the under sleeper... I don't suppose you have any pictures do you? 

 

 

No pictures of the double slip at the moment and that and the points are installed on the layout, so inaccessible. Give me a day or two and I'll see what I can find in my archives.

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  • RMweb Gold

It didn't take as long as I thought it would! The photographs show the process that I use for improving the electrical continuity of the points on my layout.

 

All of the places where soldering will be done are cleaned with a glass fibre brush. Although the place where you need to solder is not included here, you can see it in the photograph, but with the wire links removed.

 

IMG_5361.JPG.48df91d413a074818056fa7ac402bf18.JPG

 

 

 

All of these cleaned areas are then tinned with a small 'blob' of solder.

IMG_5363.JPG.80f7fbd121a5cc7f92a44c84579cbf70.JPG

 

 

The wires that are to be used as droppers are also tinned. In your case it will be the wire that you will be using to replace the broken one. I use bell wire (single core) for my droppers, but some people prefer more flexible (multi-core) wire.

IMG_5364.JPG.7765c2636b91f0f02e800ac2275cb67e.JPG

 

 

The tinned dropper is then placed in contact with the tinned track and the soldering iron touched to the join. The solder will melt very quickly and the joint is made.

 

IMG_5366_Cropped.jpg.8a17ef3d74744dd49b6d9bda21d4996c.jpg

 

 

 

You will notice that some of the sleeper moulding has melted, but not enough to show once the point is laid in place. These point sleeper bases are pretty thick and very tough, so the small amount of damage doesn't harm their integrity. It is best to use the smallest soldering iron bit that you can find. The one I would use for this job is a pointed bit on a 25W iron, so that there is plenty of heat available, meaning that the bit does not maintain contact with the material for too long.

 

I hope that that is of some use.

 

 

 

 

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