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Moss Lane (7mm Micro-Layout) NOW SOLD


georgeT
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31 minutes ago, georgeT said:

Hi Andy, Been busy on the platform tops at the moment getting the white line in place as well...all the trackwork has been finished and all the ballast has been stuck down, just needs a good clean...

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That's looking excellent mate, any signs of any spotters yet?

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I think I'll get me a pack of Foam board from my local "Hobby Craft" store they sell multi A3 packs at about £10 for 5 sheets 5mm thick.  From your use George I quite fancy making up a similar control panel as it is easy to cut and very stable.    Also I am using the same DCC unit as you and if it works for you ................................. :sungum:

 

Regards

 

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Hi Barnaby, The stuff they sell at 4 for £10 will be fine for the track bed / layout to lay on, and you can even wet it when you apply the ballast, but for building structures of any kind you need to buy FOAMEX it is very much like the light foam, but its made from PCV and is much stronger, you can buy A4 and bigger sheets of 3mm or 5mm and superglue will stick it fine, just type in foamex on e-bay, its not as cheap as the light foam but it is much better.

good luck buddy..

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Ah-ha! that explains why your cut edges are so crisp it's Foamex sheet and not Foam board.   Still has all the benefits of Foam board, lightweight, easy to use etc   but is just so much more hard wearing and should sustain the occasional knock because of its PVC surface.

 

Checking out local availability.

 

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46 minutes ago, Barnaby said:

Ah-ha! that explains why your cut edges are so crisp it's Foamex sheet and not Foam board.   Still has all the benefits of Foam board, lightweight, easy to use etc   but is just so much more hard wearing and should sustain the occasional knock because of its PVC surface.

 

Checking out local availability.

 

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Hi, Barnaby, lt all cuts very nicely with a sharp knife and glues very nice with superglue and makes nice buildings l love the 3mm personally and buy the stuff with 5 x A4 sheets in...

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2 hours ago, gismorail said:

Layout is looking excellent George love the attention to detail really makes a massive difference ......will you be going down the grass route or keeping a clear head :dance_mini:

 

Hello Martin, Don't think l have ever had a clear head (Hahahaha), and  yes there will be a bit of grass etc etc (but not as much as Bodgit has done) as the layout based in south London, l want to make some sort of station building on top of the platforms with bus stops and taxi ranks, and plenty of people around, as l tried in 'Bishop Street' we'll see where we end up, take care and stay safe hopefully will meet up soon ? ...

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9 hours ago, Andrew P said:

Any up dates from over the weekend George?

 

Hi Andy, Spent a few hours building some colour signals l bought a while back, also l have a dutch 33 on its way to ML, having ditched the BR Green one l had...

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46 minutes ago, georgeT said:

 

Hi Andy, Spent a few hours building some colour signals l bought a while back, also l have a dutch 33 on its way to ML, having ditched the BR Green one l had...

That sounds like a good move mate, the Dutch one will go better with your other stock.

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3 hours ago, Andrew P said:

That sounds like a good move mate, the Dutch one will go better with your other stock.

Errrrmmm please explain how a Dutch loco is going to work on your layouts?  Is it just the paint job you like or something else?  

I don't have enough railway knowledge to understand what is happening but it is something I have been wondering on.

For me I'm thinking of moving more into diesel but using only the locos I like which all may not have been on the track working at the same time.  Heavy use of rule 1 for me I think and a read up on periods of rail workings.

 

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Hi Barnaby, My layout 'Moss Lane' is covering the era's from mid 70s up to today, that means there are loads of liveries other than blue l can use, as in my spotting days at Eastleigh most of the ballast wagons were in the yellow and grey known as (dutch), the green livered 33 l had was a bit to far back in the 60s and didn't really fit in. l think the dutch livery came in about 1988 ? as you say rule one applies, any thing but green...

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46 minutes ago, Barnaby said:

Thanks for that George I never knew that the "Dutch" referred to the colour scheme, every day is a learning opportunity.  

 

 

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The livery was nick named 'Dutch' due to its similarity to the Dutch railways livery, take a look at some pictures of the EM2's when they moved. 

 

Looking good George, look forward to seeing the Dutch type 3 appear!

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3 hours ago, D6775 said:

 

The livery was nick named 'Dutch' due to its similarity to the Dutch railways livery, take a look at some pictures of the EM2's when they moved. 

 

Looking good George, look forward to seeing the Dutch type 3 appear!

 

Thanks Al, l seem to be going down the diesel route yet again ? having put my order in for 56, 66 & 73 when they come out, l think the sounds are so much more realistic...

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11 hours ago, Barnaby said:

Thanks for that George I never knew that the "Dutch" referred to the colour scheme, every day is a learning opportunity.  

 

 

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Hi Barnaby, l have been railway modelling since l was ten years old, and l am 69 years old this year, and still learn something 'new' every day.... Hahahaha  Regards

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11 hours ago, D6775 said:

 

The livery was nick named 'Dutch' due to its similarity to the Dutch railways livery, take a look at some pictures of the EM2's when they moved. 

 

Looking good George, look forward to seeing the Dutch type 3 appear!

 

 

I think the livery first appeared on the NS Class 100 locos and 1300 locos when they were refurbished. Some friends and I spent a lot of time roaming round the railways of the Netherlands in the 1980's which culminated in layout called Engelsdrecht which appeared in Continental Modeller complete with full overheaad catenary including the twin contact wires. It was something of a trendsetter at the time.

 

Paul R

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Now another topic I need some additional education with; painting LCut parts.

 

I have built a few of their assembly's  but have never found my painting to be satisfactory.  On the test paints I did I found them to be too unrealistic on the brickwork even following their on original painting advice but I have not checked their latest advice for any improvements.   

I've tried to seal their ply but it still looks porous when finished even when undercoated first.  Best success so far was when covering in gloss paint first but still lacking to my eye.   I'm about to try a coat of watered down PVA and some balsa wood sealer as used in my model aircraft days if it still sold.  From memory the sealer used to give a great finish to balsa wood to paint on but I don't want to lose any details. 

 

If you have any advice for a successful paint job I'd be grateful.

 

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I've not used any LCut stuff but built quite a bit of Intentio and KS Laser Design kits. my standard is variations of Steve Fey's method as described on Intentio's website here.

 

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Not the best picture but one variation I have started to use is water colour pencils to pick out the bricks, this is much easier than painting. 

 

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Hopefully of some use.

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