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Chuffnell Regis


Graham T
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Hi @Graham T, ref your comment

 

12 hours ago, Graham T said:

I'm also a little bothered by the width of the rodding runs, which will push back the platform face further than I would have liked.  I think there will need to be a slightly larger overhang of the platform surface than would be strictly prototypical - we'll see.

 

Not sure if you have a particular platform face 'style' in mind ? You could adopt the prototype practice of a corbelled brick face. This would enable a step out above the rodding run. Coping stones then overhang beyond the top level of corbelling. You may find you can reduce the gap using this format. I've taken a snip out of a larger photo which shows (possibly an extreme version of) this method: 

 

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I suspect this might just get you seeking out pictures of GWR branch line brick platforms as a little side swerve in this hobby of ours (Corbel-imey Mary Poppins :)).

 

On a separate note I believe some GWR locos have quite wide cylinders compared to other locomotives, so you may find the correct distance to give a reasonable gap to a coach fouls the cylinder, so worth checking what 'fat' (sorry GWR term is 'broad') stock you might have lurking about.

 

Historically, platforms were lower than currently, so a cardboard mock up that you can move / trim might give you a starter for 10. Below are a couple of pics I have on my topic of my cardboard mock-up. This  shows the relationship I am planning to get to my stock. The chewed up edge by the EMU shows where I have trimmed to suit.

 

What you are happy with may also depend on how you normally view the platform from your operating position, or how often you plan to take photos which show the gap between the coaches and the platform edge.

 

My island platform will be fitted with a canopy on the curved section. This also helps disguise the gap from my normal operating position. Similarly the narrow platform in front of the mock-up building looks really tight from the angle shown below  (it is really tight). But again when face on, it doesn't look that bad.  Another area where a compromise may need a 'trick' to convince the eye that it is acceptable.

 

Hope this helps.

 

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Thank you FP, that certainly does help.  I was looking at a brick-faced platform, and the picture you posted is the sort of thing I had in mind (although perhaps not quite so intricate).  Also thanks for the reminder about GWR cylinders; I've marked the platform clearances using the pencil fixed to the end of the longest coach technique, but will also check things out with the Mogul.

 

The mock-up platform is also a good idea, I'll do that.  Fortunately my platform only has a slight curve to it, so things should be relatively simple...

 

 

... famous last words!

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When I said last night that the point rodding was finished ....

 

... I did speak with a (slightly) forked tongue.  I just realised this morning that I still need to paint some of it, and there's an FPL deflector ramp to be glued down as well.  Oh yes, and the slight matter of the leading off bed to be built!

 

But anyway, here's a quick pictorial journey into Chuffnell Regis station to give you an idea of how it looks now.

 

 

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Edited by Graham T
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10 hours ago, Fishplate said:

Historically, platforms were lower than currently, so a cardboard mock up that you can move / trim might give you a starter for 10

Definitely - depending on the era when it was built, 3' above rail level (12mm) is a good ballpark figure - but earlier ones were often even lower. A surprisingly common feature was a slight ramp mid-platform where they'd been extended, with the extension higher than the original, and the original bit wasn't raised to match.

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As promised, a couple of photos of the new cable pulleys.  Lovely little prints, I must say.  Sorry about the pics not being brilliantly focussed, that's about the best I can get with my phone.  I'll start installing these on the layout later today.

 

 

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Edited by Graham T
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I couldn't wait :)  Here are the first few put in place.  They still need the ballast filling back in around them.  I'm really enjoying adding these little bits of lineside infrastructure.  But no, I won't be adding cables!!!

 

 

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Edited by Graham T
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I mentioned a while ago that I was going to build a retaining wall running from the river bridge towards the station throat.  Well, I've been making some slow but steady progress on this.  Here's the state of play so far.  It's a (slightly bashed) Scalescenes product, and will have an additional parapet wall on top of it.  So now the PW staff will have a fighting chance of surviving the walk to and from work!

 

 

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Edited by Graham T
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The wall is pretty much finished now.  It needs a little trimmage at the join with the bridge, to get a snug fit, and a squirt of matt varnish, and then it will be ready to fix in place (for now, anyway!)

 

 

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Edited by Graham T
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While playing about with testing a new toy - more to come on that later - I discovered a weird problem with my Hornby Toad.  Although the wheels spin freely if you pick the van up and try them by hand, it doesn't run freely on the tracks.  I've checked the back-to-backs and they're about 14.3 mm.  I know they should be 14.5, but that seems close enough that it shouldn't be a problem.  Anyone have any ideas what might be wrong please?

 

Bueller?  Anyone?

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I've had a busy and quite productive day at Chuffnell R today.  Four ground levers have been built and are ready for paint, most of the bay platform road has been ballasted, and I've done some testing :)

 

The retaining wall is also finished now, fixed in place, and blended into the existing groundwork with the aid of some cardboard strips, hot glue, and then a judicious application of ballast.  Looks ok I think.

 

 

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Edited by Graham T
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I've also been experimenting with a Peco point motor and switch.  I'm using a PL-1000 (one of the twist-lock ones) and a Peco switch.  Unfortunately I haven't had much success so far.  It seems to be a bit of "one step forward and two back" with some aspects of the layout.  I know there's power to the point motor, as I can hear it buzz when I throw the switch, but it doesn't seem to have enough oomph to actually move the operating rod.  Not enough power maybe?  I've checked that there's free movement for the operating rod through the hole in the baseboard under the point.

 

I've got a CDU on order so I'm hoping that might be the solution.

 

I also tried swapping out the wheels in the Toad for a different set, but that didn't make any difference.  "Flummoxed of Chuffnell Regis"!

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8 hours ago, Graham T said:

While playing about with testing a new toy - more to come on that later - I discovered a weird problem with my Hornby Toad.  Although the wheels spin freely if you pick the van up and try them by hand, it doesn't run freely on the tracks.  I've checked the back-to-backs and they're about 14.3 mm.  I know they should be 14.5, but that seems close enough that it shouldn't be a problem.  Anyone have any ideas what might be wrong please?

 

Bueller?  Anyone?

What happens if you place it on something flat (e.g a sheet of glass or mirror) and push it? Does it still bind up? It might be worth drilling out the axle boxes and fitting pinpoint bearings - you'd need an axle box reamer, which is like a very short drill that firsts between the axle boxes and drills each one in turn.

 

That's something I need to do with my Hornby ex-LSWR stock for Lyme.

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28 minutes ago, Nick C said:

What happens if you place it on something flat (e.g a sheet of glass or mirror) and push it? Does it still bind up? It might be worth drilling out the axle boxes and fitting pinpoint bearings - you'd need an axle box reamer, which is like a very short drill that firsts between the axle boxes and drills each one in turn.

 

That's something I need to do with my Hornby ex-LSWR stock for Lyme.

 

The wheels do actually turn when it's moving on the layout, they aren't locked up.  But it's not free-running at all.  Most of my stock will roll freely with a gentle push - but not the Toad.  I need to get some pinpoint bearings anyway. so that's a good suggestion - thanks.  Where did you get the axle box reamer from?

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