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Chuffnell Regis


Graham T
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Well just let me know if you need something.  If I've got it, no problem to pop it in the post.

 

Ref standpipes, I used a Modelu 3D one on the goods shed - incredibly fine detail!

 

I'm also thinking that I will add a little feed store next to the cattle dock perhaps.  I'm sure I saw that in one of my reference books, but obviously I can't remember which one now!

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I haven't had time to do anything to Chuffnell Regis yet today, I've been too busy messing about on @MrWolf's thread, (sorry, working I mean!)  But I did take a quick snap of the Mogul.  Which needs a crew, amongst other things...

 

IMG20211012101758.jpg.89bf46fbc1e06f16eae7e4bf54a1f5d7.jpg

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I'm going to build myself the brick one, not sure about the wriggly tin, because of available space (although I do have an extra lamp hut that I could use).

 

I can't see any windows on the brick building, and am assuming there weren't any on the other walls either.  What do you think?

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I made a little more progress with the cattle dock this evening.  I realised that some of the facing side will actually be exposed to view, so the stonework on there has been painted.  Not being the sharpest knife in the drawer sometimes, I blindly followed the Ratio suggestion and painted the short downpipe black.  Then I remembered where Chuffnell Regis is (supposed to be), and painted it dark stone instead.

 

I wasn't very happy with the track drains, so most of that got lifted and relaid, with the gaps filled with Mr Surfacer.  Then it was made to look what I hope is suitably grungy.  The small hut in the corner is roughly where the feed store will be; it'll be similar construction but a bit smaller, and with no windows or chimney.  The black lines you can see on the cork are where the road access will drop down from the dock and then curve away past the goods yard and weighbridge, before gradually climbing again up to the station entrance.  I'm thinking of putting the weighbridge more or less opposite the end of the goods shed; it will have to go quite close to the backscene though unfortunately. 

 

I also cut and painted some scrap rail and a piece of coffee stirrer to make the buffer stop.  Last job of the evening was filing all the flash off the concrete posts for the pens, which felt like it took about a million years :)

 

 

image.png.81849f9636f52ea145f650aa7dbcf250.png

 

Edited by Graham T
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I can't think of any reason to install windows in that brick hut, it would just need to be dry and secure.

I haven't bothered with the track drainage inserts, a lot of minor stations were less well equipped. I suspect that a terminus like yours would definitely have drains.

Remember to set the weighbridge back far enough so that not every vehicle has to pass over it and allows free access in and out of the yard.

It's coming along nicely, looking very logical and workmanlike.

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On 09/10/2021 at 16:13, Graham T said:

Thanks, but you'd probably think differently if you could see it up close!  It's from a Scalescenes kit.  I like those, and they can be built up to be pretty sturdy, but they take quite a while to build (or they do for me, anyway), and I haven't yet found a spray varnish that works well on them.  That last point is a snag for me, as I like to use acrylics for the weathering.


Try using hairspray as a sealer. 
 

When the kit has been first printed, spray some on after leaving the paper to dry for 24hrs first, then spray both sides. Then spray the completed kit afterwards.

 

Works for me at Henley on Thames. 
 

In fact I also use hairspray as a glue on all the static grass and also for the glue when making trees.

 

Good luck.

 

 

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28 minutes ago, Neal Ball said:


Try using hairspray as a sealer. 
 

When the kit has been first printed, spray some on after leaving the paper to dry for 24hrs first, then spray both sides. Then spray the completed kit afterwards.

 

Works for me at Henley on Thames. 
 

In fact I also use hairspray as a glue on all the static grass and also for the glue when making trees.

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

Thanks very much Neal, I'll give that a try.  Although I'll have difficulty waiting 24 hours!

 

You don't find any problems with glue adhering to the sprayed paper?  I am using Roket card glue.

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Also @Neal Ball, when you're using it for static grass, how do you control where the spray goes?  I'm not thinking about for larger areas, but for applying little clumps and tufts here and there.  For example I want to put a little bit around the platelayers hut, but it would need to be just small amounts.

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On 09/10/2021 at 15:13, Graham T said:

Thanks, but you'd probably think differently if you could see it up close!  It's from a Scalescenes kit.  I like those, and they can be built up to be pretty sturdy, but they take quite a while to build (or they do for me, anyway), and I haven't yet found a spray varnish that works well on them.  That last point is a snag for me, as I like to use acrylics for the weathering.

Hi,

 

i use a spray fixative designed for artists using charcoal, pastels, pencils  and watercolours.  Works a treat, when dry can be painted over without paint running and, as a bonus, is uv resistant.

 

Roja

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1 minute ago, 37Oban said:

Hi,

 

i use a spray fixative designed for artists using charcoal, pastels, pencils  and watercolours.  Works a treat, when dry can be painted over without paint running and, as a bonus, is uv resistant.

 

Roja

 

Thanks Roja.  I think I'll try some experimenting with both.  Maybe use the fixative on paper and card, and the hairspray as a glue for scenery.

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For tufts etc. @Graham T I use one of two methods….

 

1: cheat! I’ve bought a small pack from a gaming shop of Vallejo tufts of grass.

2: make up tufts away from the layout on greaseproof paper. Blob of PVA onto the paper and then apply static grass. ( I’ve not tried that method)

3: I asked Chris Nevard the same question about putting weeds around the lamp post in the yard at Henley on Thames. His advice was a small blob of PVA and then manually stick strands of grass into it.

 

Generally when applying static grass, I either use masking tape, or simply hold pieces of paper across an area I don’t want to cover. (Particularly useful when going up against the back scene.) I have also used this method to place paper around the trees which were already on the landscape before I did my static grass.

 

In the past, I have tried artists spray fix…. But found it difficult to get hold of and wasn’t as effective. Whereas a cheap can of hairspray is less than £1 or over here less than €1

 

Hope that helps.

 

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I've been experimenting with making clumps of grass. A blob of PVA on a bit of polythene taped to a board. Once it is dry, peel off and slice through with a razor blade / Stanley blade.

You now have a tuft of grass with a flat base and a flat 'side' you can press up against a vertical surface.

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@MrWolf - Rob, regarding this brick shed for the feed store; do you think it would have guttering?  Hard to tell from the photos above, but it looks like it doesn't have  any.  I'd appreciate your thoughts, as you seem to be a bit of a shed afficianado :)

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I've dug out a copy of the same book, Great Western Termites.

Under a magnifier, it appears that there are only a pair of painted soffit boards under the edge of the roof, the overhang being enough to divert rain.

It's noticeable that the BR era pictures look to have posts for notice boards, but the 1921 picture doesn't. It does have a rather nice yard oil lamp though. 

The early photo shows both the dock and the empty cattle truck as whitewashed. This practice had ended by 1930. Possibly @Bluemonkey presents.... would know exactly when that happened.

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Thanks very much Rob.  I'll build it without gutters in that case.  No whitewash, and no oil lamp either I'm afraid (I'd break it as it will be so close to the front of the layout).

 

"Great Western Termites" - lovely!

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