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Comet Stove R Build


drgj
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I am currently building this model. I have assembled the body sides and ends into a complete unit. Starting on the chassis I find it is quite a bit narrower than the body assembly so there is a large gap on either side. Should I fill this gap by fixing something to the inner surface of the sides or am I missing something?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

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I did this kit a number of years ago:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/87302-building-an-lms-stove-r-that-works/

 

It is a bit convoluted as I began trying to make a silk purse out of the pigs ear that was the Dapol Stove R.  I think I made use of some of the Dapol underframe details.

 

As for the gap, I don't recall any issue but I have seen that on other kits.  I wouldn't worry about it.

 

John

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14 minutes ago, drgj said:

I am currently building this model. I have assembled the body sides and ends into a complete unit. Starting on the chassis I find it is quite a bit narrower than the body assembly so there is a large gap on either side. Should I fill this gap by fixing something to the inner surface of the sides or am I missing something?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

 

Will you not be assembling the chassis onto a floor that can fit within the body?

 

John Isherwood.

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Thanks to John and John.

 

I can see the gap on your hybrid mode, John in Quebec.  It doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

Here is a pic. The chassis is also too long because of the four extensions so I guess these have to come off

 

Dave

 

 

IMG_20210312_182919_3.jpg

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It loks like you're only just behind where I've got to with my build, despite me having started mine several years ago!

2021-03-12_06-47-35.jpg.074277a119d720cd98bdc61364031b7f.jpg

I'm planning to put a floor (or at least some brass L angle) in mine as I don't like how flimsy the sides feel with the gap between the sides and the chassis.

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Thanks to Mark and Jason. 

Because the chassis has fold up sides that go inside the body you can't fit a floor. In my pic you can see these and also the solebars which are soldered underneath. The solebars are also too long so I will have to shorten these. I am realising that this must be because the chassis is also used on other models  longer models.

 

I was initially worried that I had made a mistake in construction but now, thanks to all who have helped,  that the gap is normal.

 

Dave

IMG_20210313_100543_3.jpg

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22 minutes ago, drgj said:

Thanks to Mark and Jason. 

Because the chassis has fold up sides that go inside the body you can't fit a floor. In my pic you can see these and also the solebars which are soldered underneath. The solebars are also too long so I will have to shorten these. I am realising that this must be because the chassis is also used on other models  longer models.

 

I was initially worried that I had made a mistake in construction but now, thanks to all who have helped,  that the gap is normal.

 

Dave

IMG_20210313_100543_3.jpg

 

Two approaches suggest themselves : -

 

1] remove the fold-up sides AFTER you have fitted the solebars - the latter should be sufficient to brace the sub-floor. A plastic card floor could then be fitted.

 

2] obtain some brass U or rectangular section that could be soldered to the edges of the fold-up sides in order to widen them.

 

John Isherwood.

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You need to be aware that the Comet diagram showing the arrangement of the underframe (this has two vac cylinders and I doubt it has changed) is quite wrong.  Look at the way I did mine, this is based on a reproduction works drawing for the standard LMS 6 wheeled underframe with brakes on all wheels.

 

John

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I am a bit confused about the underframe fittings arrangement. Mine stove is going to be like the one on the Paul Bartlett site with smooth sides and two step boards on each side. It says diagram 1776 numbered M32932M. What would be the arrangement in this case?

 

There is another one on that site with the same diagram  number but has beading on the sides. Did they build them both ways or remove the beading later?

 

Dave

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From my experience, photographs are the only way to go to get a reasonably accurate idea of beading/gangway/stepboard etc variations, likewise with the ex LMS bogie GUV vans.

The issue is that with etched sides the removal/addition of beading is a tad tricky.

 

Mike.

 

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Well, how about that, there are several pics on Paul's site and most show unbeaded sides.  M32958 appears to have beading.  I elected to use plastic strip fixed with CA, it seemed less risky than solder which would take ages to clean up.

 

P1010001-005.JPG.996af046af59b0f01ddc7296a851a08a.JPG

 

32919 seems to have some beading but it is missing here and there.  Find a pic of the van in the era that you are modelling is my advice.

 

John

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Here's a shot of the underside at an earlier stage of build, might be clearer:

 

P1010003-001.JPG.80b83020b960530bbc1f7a2337bb2717.JPG

 

I originally built it to EM but later on converted it to 00.  IIRC, in 00, the yokes are too wide (they rub on the flanges) so I snipped them.  You can fix the yokes for 00 by snipping and soldering the angled part further back.

 

John

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Thanks, John. 

This is my first full brass kit.  I have used comet sides on plastic coaches before. Having not built a comet kit before I was a bit disappointed that parts like the step boards aren't a straight forward fit with solder. I have small drill bits for these but only a hand chuck which takes a lot of twiddling with brass. I might buy a pin chuck for my drill press.

 

When I used to go on my mad railway trips in the 70s I would probably have seen all kinds of interesting rolling stock but it literally just passed me by as I was only interested in locomotives. I am now quite interested in ex LMS rolling stock, especially.

 

Dave

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I have tried a number of Comet coach kits but the Stove R was the first I actually finished.  I had started some LMS NC coaches but then Hornby brought theirs out so I went for them.

 

Thankfully Paul Bartlett did stop to take pictures of rolling stock and we can be grateful to him for a priceless archive.

 

Drill bits in this scale (0.020" and 0.032" are the ones I use most often) are too fragile to be used in a power tool IMO.  I have a fair number of pin vices.

 

John

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I managed to drill the holes in the solebars  into which the step board mountings will fit. This was after reading to do this before assembly! Anyway, to make the holes level I made a little guide. This was just a short strip of brass sized to slide along the solebar channel . I drilled a hole in this at the right height  and then slid it along drilling through the hole.  This also stopped the drill bit skidding about.

 

Dave

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I have made a Stove R before  but with comet sides and an airfix coach chopped up. What I have suddenly remembered is that a stove has plain solebars rather than channeled.  I remember making the floor and solebars from plastic and using comet w irons/ springs, etc.

 

Maybe some did have channeled solebars?

 

Dave

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On 23/03/2021 at 15:54, drgj said:

I have made a Stove R before  but with comet sides and an airfix coach chopped up. What I have suddenly remembered is that a stove has plain solebars rather than channeled.  I remember making the floor and solebars from plastic and using comet w irons/ springs, etc.

 

Maybe some did have channeled solebars?

 

Dave

 

IIRC, the solebars were channel section, but the “wrong” way round - so the flat was on the outside...  again, IIRC the 6-wheel fish van had the same arrangement

 

And this is why quite a few of us are interested in getting five79 fish van underframes to rescue the Dapol/Hornby Stove R - although Dunsignalling of this parish is very much leading the way:

 

 

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I think I will have to leave mine the way it is now.  I notice that the photo of the completed model from the old Comet (now on Wizard) shows it built like mine. I'm not too bothered. It's a bit like my Kitmaster MK1 that has the same problem but I don't notice it.

 

Dave

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