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Comet Stove R Build


drgj
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I just read through John's (Brossard) thread on his stove r and noticed he had done the same thing of making a jig for the stepboard holes and drilling through it.  He should have  the credit for doing it first! Anyway, it worked well.

 

 

Dave

Edited by drgj
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This is where I am now. I have the body soldered as in previous pics plus the roof cut to length, etc. The roof is a very good fit so I must have got the body nice and square.

 

Here is the picture of the underframe/ floor assembly.  I still have to fit the lower steps and various white metal fittings. I will be using Araldite for the latter.  I used plain wire between the brake blocks rather than yokes. The centre w iron assembly has the fold up centre bearing for the wheels. I fitted the pin point bearings just to give the axle boxes something to positively fit to. The step boards are on .45mm wire.  The wire is fitted in the holes to be flush at the back. It is strong and didn't require bending at the rear as in the instructions. I thought these would get in the way of something.  To fit the boards to the wire I put them in place and  jammed some card packing between the board and foor edge.  Sodering didn't cause the wire to loosen in the sole bar or if it did the card stopped movement.  Two holes weren't pefectly level but a slight bend in the wire whist keeping the board horizontal sorted it. They look nice and level from the side.

 

Dave

 

 

stove under.jpg

Edited by drgj
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I have been wondering about the battery regulator (I think that is what it is!). Is this a flat plate with the regulator on and then supported by four angled pieces of wire or two angled pieces of sheet?

Thanks

 

Dave

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Thank

1 hour ago, Ralphrob48 said:

Stove R on E Lancs Railway, photos taken January 2013 of the recently restored vehicle which may be of use to you.

DSC03292.JPG.7fa807bc2afee6932a0f69e2d5713eaf.JPG

DSC03291.JPG

DSC03290.JPG

Thanks to ralphrob  for the excellent pictures. 

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Hi there

I've built the Comet StoveR. It’s a nice kit but still struggles for running quality. I also have a Dapol stove which has festered in a drawer for years as it is pretty much incapable of good running. Whilst looking at alternative chassis I have recently added an Ian McDonald (Mc Geordie of this parish) 6 wheel Palethorpes sausage van to my fleet. Truly a fabulous kit, as indeed are all his kits.  The 6 wheel chassis runs superbly through all track formations including reverse curves - so I wondered if I could use a reworked version on the Dapol van. In the end modifications proved relatively straightforward. Hopefully the attached pics will give an idea.

697CA2A0-8BA1-4414-8A40-505955946489.jpeg.00df9aefee0194d48a59e8844c0ccaca.jpeg

 

the only mod to the Dapol body was to increase the height of the central section to match the ends.

08837229-1DB8-45C1-AB93-4021A8F55E7E.jpeg.b786462143bf4664282967fa793444b9.jpeg

 

These are the 3 trucks that make up the articulated running unit.

0F90E0CF-F300-403C-ABB1-784515FEEE8A.jpeg.7999dd69925db11b5a01cbe134fa7572.jpeg

A continuous step board was added both sides from scrap etch.

A71F17EA-84A3-4211-A90B-E701E5D8F4A6.jpeg.ea1906f5791e81f0aa7d0da08dc6995c.jpeg

The component parts of body, articulated trucks and chassis showing how it goes together. Alterations to the sausage van chassis include moving one battery box so they are not opposing and moving the regulator to the opposite side. Guards steps and van end steps were fashioned from brass strip.

F3050C86-4A5F-4231-A442-F2E2E12F91A3.jpeg.8ec5300f70bb5efeff9abbf41e16b611.jpeg

Fial chassis after painting.

908BA45F-1F09-4C3C-AC00-11FB1212E550.jpeg.f1a15323b02abce59ee94e91e1b9ef53.jpeg

Still needs numbering, but it won’t be reusing in a drawer any more.

 

75CE195B-3B9B-4C67-897A-0A60C4FC4181.jpeg

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I like that a lot. .  The battery box supports look good and are those brass nem sockets for couplings? Very neat. I would never have thought of doing that. I have some Parkside nem mounts that I was thinking of using.

 

Dave

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1 hour ago, drgj said:

I like that a lot. .  The battery box supports look good and are those brass nem sockets for couplings? Very neat. I would never have thought of doing that. I have some Parkside nem mounts that I was thinking of using.

 

Dave

Thanks Dave. Yes the nem sockets are a fold up item that come in all Ian McDonald’s kits. I can’t stress enough how good his etched kits are, I’ve built several now, well thought out and the best instructions I’ve ever seen. 
No connection just a very satisfied user.

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I couldn't agree more about Ian's kits.  I built his 7mm Palbrick and I was extremely impressed.  I'm not going to say it was easy, every kit has it's challenges.  I also had to fill in the blanks on the underframe detail.

 

John

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  • 2 months later...

Have finally finished the stove. I copied the plain sided maroon one from the Paul Bartlett site but painted it in blue.

 

I quite enjoyed building my first full Comet kit but there was a lot more drilling, cutting and filing than I expected.  Previously if building a coach I have used brass sides and an rtr coach and just thought it would be nice to build a kit where all is ready made, holes drilled, etc, but this wasn't the case!  I started having to force myself to get on withe next fiddly bit. Also the instructions were wrong so Iused the chanelled sole bar instead of plain by mistake. One also feels obliged to solder these kits  as well which is a bit of a pain and I only had either a 15w or a massive 65 watt thing with a gigantic tip. The 15w was ok for doing the thin bits like  rocking w irons, bake shoes, etc.  I had to use the giant iron for the body as the small one didn't have enough oomph. I did not bother soldering the white metal bits as I knew I would melt them! 

 

   I noticed that the prototype I had chosen  had less roof ribs than the Comet plan  and for these I used 0.5mm sticky masking tape. I also copied the step configuration- two main ones on each side plus two small lower steps on one side and the long and short on the other. This version didn't have the medium lower step. 

 

For paint I used Railmatch black and blue plus some Humbrol to mix the roof colour and for the very light weathering. For weathering I prefer a slightly "dusty" look. To apply the paint I used a Badger airbrush and Iwata compressor. The numbering is pressfix (very fiddly individual numbers) plus some waterslide overhead live wire signs. I couldn't find any stove r transfers.

 

Although I moan I am pleased with the result.

 

Here are some pics

 

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On 15/03/2021 at 17:00, brossard said:

I have a fair number of pin vices.

Me too, not neccessarily pin ones...

 

I would rather like a Stove R for Cwmdimbath and will be investigating the Five 79/Chivers fish van chassis as the basis for this. with the choice of Dapol, Comet, or Recreation 3D printed body, but this will be very much a future project; I have too much else to sort out first before embarking on something else...

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I would just stick to the Comet chassis unless you have very severe curves. If you can get a Pannier around your curves then you won't have any problems with a Stove R.

 

 

As for the chassis. You've got to be careful with the instructions as they are also for the LNER vans. It is a bit complicated.

 

It's the LNER vans that have the channelled solebar. G in the diagram. For LMS use F. Then use the leftover one as the foot boards.

 

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/um5.pdf

 

Certainly not a beginners kit and it looks good in blue. If you can build that then you won't have any problems with any of the other kits.

 

 

Jason

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My instructions didn't look like that. I bought the kit on eBay and the instructions definitely said use G for M59.  It must have been an old version. When I first realised the mistake I had made I looked back at the instructions and that is what it said. 

 

I have seen several others built the wrong way- even the picture on the Wizard models site has a channeled solebar. Here is one posted on this site.

 

 

 

 

Dave

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Edited by drgj
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