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Class 56 fault finding/repair 56 013 be blue


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On 15/03/2021 at 13:36, James90012 said:

The bogie cover comes off very easily, you just need to slide a thin small screwdriver on the inside of the frame - or potentially I think you can insert the screwdriver into a small gap on the side. It might 'ping' though so make sure you're somewhere it can bounce to! 

 

This video on YouTube was very useful for me - though you won't need to take the PCB out or the motor, just the bogie.

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Thanks James

 

I watched this now......

 

I didn’t remove the motor as I found once the carden shafts were disconnected I could test it first by hand moving the fly wheels to see if the motor rotated and then connecting to 12dc the motor was fine. 
 

The one point I would recommend is to completely disassemble the worm screw assembly and clean it with WD40 in a tray and then oil the parts and reassemble but take care with the tiny washer at the carden shaft end.

 

The loco is running better than ever now it’s reassembled and the lights are working all I have to do is figure out how best to get the lights to work on the swapped body as the contacts look slightly different in length. Hopefully I can avoid soldering as that’s a last resort. As I been typing this it just occurred to me that the doors open on the 56 and I may be able to see if the lights contact sit properly and if they don’t move them in to place.....I’ll try that tomorrow.

 

B

 

 

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Update

 

well that idea of opening the doors to check the fit was one of those good ideas that’s not that good in practice. The door springs didn’t like it much both on 56013 and 56127. The windows of the latter pigging out. 
 

The lights on 56013 work on its own frame but not on 56127 sound fitted frame. The lighting springs are different both in length and shape 56127 going off at an angle. I’m trying to figure out a rig of some type to check the lights without soldering but failed today but as with the idea of open doors I have a think and see tomorrow if I can get the wires attached from the body while the chassis is on the rolling road to see if the lights are working on both bodies. At present 56127 isn’t working at one end own it own chassis. Any suggestions woul be greatly appreciated.

 

B

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Coming in late to this topic, I had a similar problem a while back with a Hornby Railfreight 56, but when I disconnected the bogies and cardan shafts, I found it was the motor end bearings that had the "concrete grease". Having freed that up with some difficulty - a combination of oil and brute force got it moving - even so, I lubricated everything I could, including the shaft bearings in the gear towers, and it now runs perfectly again. The biggest problem I had was with the very limited clearance between the motor and the flywheels, trying to get the oil into that space.

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The one thing I’ve noticed from this tread is this is a common problem. I haven’t had the same issue with my class 50s yet but I still have a few yet to chip but I think I may strip them down as well because the 56s are now running like a dream........I e just got to figure out the light issue........Given Smokeboxs point the question is can the bodies be swapped at all and the lights and still keep working lights. If remember rightly there was some about replacement pcb boards for 56 in the press.....anybody have an idea if that’s correct.

 

 

B

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46 minutes ago, brenn said:

The one thing I’ve noticed from this tread is this is a common problem. I haven’t had the same issue with my class 50s yet but I still have a few yet to chip but I think I may strip them down as well because the 56s are now running like a dream........I e just got to figure out the light issue........Given Smokeboxs point the question is can the bodies be swapped at all and the lights and still keep working lights. If remember rightly there was some about replacement pcb boards for 56 in the press.....anybody have an idea if that’s correct.

 

 

B

 

I would suggest that if you swap bodies, swap the cab interiors to keep those with their original chassis. That should hopefully keep the light connections correct for the chassis.

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That’s a great idea.........I didn’t think of that simple solution although the cabs are glued in so will take a bit of moving and that will allow testing easier as one end of 56127 doesn’t seem to be working.

 

Thsnks..... I’ll have a look at that soon

 

B

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