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Hattons Barclay


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I have been asked for advice on re-wheeling one of these for EM gauge, and have to admit I have absolutely no idea !

 

The main issue is whether suitable wheels can be obtained. I assume these wheels are close to 3' in which case Gibson don't appear to make one. Markits do but these would be 1/8" axle only which I assume doesn't suit the Hattons chassis?

 

I see on the EM gauge 1970's website that it is possible to re-use the existing wheels by skimming them on a lathe etc. Is there a simpler way?

 

Many thanks

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The existing wheels are metal with plastic centres on a 2mm axle. It might be possible to get by with simply pulling the wheels out to the proper b to b for EM. That said, the cylinders would have to be split to allow clearance. A bit fussy but not impossible. 
 

HTH,

 

David

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Are you in the EM Gauge Society (or do you know someone who is)? There was a new section of the EMGS manual (4 pages) included in an EMGS newsletter mailing last year which covered the conversion of the Hattons 16" Barclay to EM gauge. It recommended the use of Gibson G4839G loco wheels (3'3.5" Garratt industrial).

 

regards,

 

Andy

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14 hours ago, 2mm Andy said:

Are you in the EM Gauge Society (or do you know someone who is)? There was a new section of the EMGS manual (4 pages) included in an EMGS newsletter mailing last year which covered the conversion of the Hattons 16" Barclay to EM gauge. It recommended the use of Gibson G4839G loco wheels (3'3.5" Garratt industrial).

 

regards,

 

Andy

Thank you - yes I am and have now managed to find the sheet concerned. Interesting that it uses Gibson Beyer Garratt wheels with 1/8" to 2mm reducing bushes. Perhaps this is why my correspondent seeks another option since Barclay wheels are so distinctive. Sharman used to make one but it's not listed on their website. I think only Markits make 3'3" Barclay wheels and of course these would be incompatible with the reducing bushes.

I will pass on all the info. kindly provided and leave it to him, my aversion to R-T-R loco's suitably reinforced !

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6 minutes ago, Holmside said:

Er, could Davknigh please explain (or direct me to where I can ascertain) what the ‘RP25’ standard is as it sounds  interesting .....

It’s an NMRA Recommend Practice, with different “standards” for different scales, gauges and indeed standard, fine-scale and scale usages.

 

Search RP25 and NMRA, and you will get more information than you can use.

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The wheels are 3’ 6” (so 14mm). That’s the usual dimension for a 14” cylinder 0-4-0 by a British builder - Pecketts, RSH, Barclay, Bagnall, etc all did something similar.

 

Gibson will do you a 3’ 8” wheel  which is the correct Barclay pattern but visibly too big, though it might be amenable to skimming down in a lathe but if you’re doing that you may as well stick new tyres in the existing wheels. That approach works and I’ve seen it done most effectively in P4.
 

The two big things that have stopped me working on mine are that the 16” version is a work of fiction (sticking bigger cylinders and a extra couple of mm on the front of the footplate on a scale rendition of a 14” does not make an accurate model: the real 16” tanks are about 15% bigger in every dimension). That’s resolvable, and min will be back converted to a 14" in time. If you’ve got one with the larger tank, then you just have to live with it. The other factor is the top speed which is in the Smokey Joe realm (yes, I know DCC can tame that but I don’t do DCC) so a replacement chassis is essential for me at any rate and if you go down that road then etched overlays for the spokes might b the way forward. 
 

Adam

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9 hours ago, Adam said:

The wheels are 3’ 6” (so 14mm). That’s the usual dimension for a 14” cylinder 0-4-0 by a British builder - Pecketts, RSH, Barclay, Bagnall, etc all did something similar.

 

Gibson will do you a 3’ 8” wheel  which is the correct Barclay pattern but visibly too big, though it might be amenable to skimming down in a lathe but if you’re doing that you may as well stick new tyres in the existing wheels. That approach works and I’ve seen it done most effectively in P4.
 

The two big things that have stopped me working on mine are that the 16” version is a work of fiction (sticking bigger cylinders and a extra couple of mm on the front of the footplate on a scale rendition of a 14” does not make an accurate model: the real 16” tanks are about 15% bigger in every dimension). That’s resolvable, and min will be back converted to a 14" in time. If you’ve got one with the larger tank, then you just have to live with it. The other factor is the top speed which is in the Smokey Joe realm (yes, I know DCC can tame that but I don’t do DCC) so a replacement chassis is essential for me at any rate and if you go down that road then etched overlays for the spokes might b the way forward. 
 

Adam

I quite agree - a new chassis could easily have etched wheel overlays on the fret, and it would also deal with the other issue I find unacceptable, which is the Tri-ang style 'skirt' where daylight should be under the boiler ! 

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42 minutes ago, Barclay said:

I quite agree - a new chassis could easily have etched wheel overlays on the fret, and it would also deal with the other issue I find unacceptable, which is the Tri-ang style 'skirt' where daylight should be under the boiler ! 

 

I'd quite forgotten about the 'skirt', but yes, that's the other elephant in the room!

 

Adam

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2 hours ago, Asterix2012 said:

I wonder how far along Chris at High Level is with the chassis he was planning on doing, I would like one of these but without the “kilt” (seems more appropriate for something from Kilmarnock)

ISTR. Chris was having some issues with his computer that held things up plus some problems with getting info on the particular version represented by the Hatton’s model and getting suitable wheels. Add to that the increased demand for his products due to people building their way out of the lockdowns, gear  makers and etchers shut down, and all the rest I think you’ll find he’s had a lot on his plate. But whenever it comes out I’m sure it’ll be worth the wait.

 

Cheers,

 

David

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