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Cropper Street.....the Dock Street replacement layout..


Gilbert
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Cork down and work on the lighting rig underway. The two wedge shaped pieces sit on the end boards and project the fascia about 50mm in front of the layout. It is designed to be easy to slot on and off as the layout is stored in a 77L RUB.

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The joint between FY and main board. I use 3mm ply set into the 3mm cork to provide a firm foundation for the track. I have found that some "3mm" ply is not  and I carefully preserve my small stock of the correct wood for jobs such as this.

More brick action...

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Edited by Gilbert
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and a bit of paint.. I try to make parts easily fitted and removed. Apart from the front profile board fitted at the end of the build everything else is fitted in place with small M4 and M5 machine screws, wing nuts and in some case pronged tee captive nuts

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Edited by Gilbert
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3 hours ago, Gilbert said:

Hi Terry - All small Code 75.

I've also found that this orientation with the RH turnouts rather than LH is much better in use with the Kadee couplers I use.

1. I’m Just wondering what the theory is behind why Kadee works better with RH points ? 
 

2. Will you be using one under track kadee magnet as highlighted in blue  or three as kadee under tracks magnets as highlighted in pink ?
 

What are the advantages and disadvantages of each option ?


Terry 


 

 

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26 minutes ago, ELTEL said:

1. I’m Just wondering what the theory is behind why Kadee works better with RH points ? 
 

2. Will you be using one under track kadee magnet as highlighted in blue  or three as kadee under tracks magnets as highlighted in pink ?
 

What are the advantages and disadvantages of each option ?


Terry 


 

 

 

Hi Terry - jumping ahead in the project to a later photo - there are 2 magnets. The main one is located where stock being shunted into the two front sidings is orientated so the curve exaggerates the coupler opening (ignore the nearest line - it will be a cement siding not usually included in the Inglenook game)

I don't use magnets below the track as I find they are too strong for most British stock with steel axles and cause a shuffle as the wagon passes over it. I suspect an electromagnet or a hinged magnet would work but I'd probably need a foot pedal to get everything coordinated!
 50884347102_23c1939f26_z.jpg

 

 

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We had a similar problem on the club narrow gauge layout “Seagone” and we opted for the hinge magnet which seems to work fine.

 

I think somewhere I have electromagnet so I’ll give it a test.

 

I have heard of modellers placing a foam pad above the wagon axle to stop the shuffle .

 

I will keep you posted.....

 

Terry 

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22 minutes ago, ELTEL said:

We had a similar problem on the club narrow gauge layout “Seagone” and we opted for the hinge magnet which seems to work fine.

 

I think somewhere I have electromagnet so I’ll give it a test.

 

I have heard of modellers placing a foam pad above the wagon axle to stop the shuffle .

 

I will keep you posted.....

 

Terry 

Cheers Terry - Yup...I've used the foam brake trick as well - also in 7mm with S&W couplings

I've also trialled a Rapido switchable uncoupler but although I have not opened it up I think magnets move into place when activated - unfortunately they also seemed strong enough to attract axles when "off".

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8 hours ago, Gilbert said:

Hi Terry - jumping ahead in the project to a later photo - there are 2 magnets. The main one is located where stock being shunted into the two front sidings is orientated so the curve exaggerates the coupler opening (ignore the nearest line - it will be a cement siding not usually included in the Inglenook game)

I don't use magnets below the track as I find they are too strong for most British stock with steel axles and cause a shuffle as the wagon passes over it. I suspect an electromagnet or a hinged magnet would work but I'd probably need a foot pedal to get everything coordinated!
 50884347102_23c1939f26_z.jpg

 

 

 

Oooo liking where this is going...

 

Regarding Kadees, I don't know if this will be any help to anyone, but here's a link to some experiments with magnets etc. The main finding is de-magnetizing wagons by swapping out the axles for brass ones - I can't emphasize enough the hugely positive impact this has had on shunting operations and its pretty straightforward. 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Off Tackle said:

 

 The main finding is de-magnetizing wagons by swapping out the axles for brass ones - I can't emphasize enough the hugely positive impact this has had on shunting operations and its pretty straightforward. 

 

 

 

I have got some of the brass axles and agree they are a major improvement. Interesting to see how you cut the magnets with a knife. Hadn't thought nof that!

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Full size plan out again to sort out wiring and PMs.

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The inputs for point motors and DCC are located at the rear. The NCE PCP panel will go in the front fascia.

A lesson learnt - the Point Controls will be in a small panel set into the Fiddle Yard. This is easy too use but also means the layout PMs etc can't be tested without attaching the FY.

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On Dock Street I used a small tethered box which could be connected to the layout if required for testing etc. but was normally "permanently" attached to the shunting track. I think this is actually the best solution for my configuration and I may modify Cropper Street accordingly.

50352628191_4b12082c96_c.jpg

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I was minded to try the Scalescenes arches but although the trial piece turned out OK I couldn't face all that cutting of the cardboard. Since then I understand some one is providing laser cut card parts and I've discovered self adhesive matt photo paper for printing in my High Street computer shop...maybe next time -  its nice stuff.

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On 20/03/2021 at 18:18, Gilbert said:

Now its getting serious...

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On 20/03/2021 at 18:20, Gilbert said:

This is the underneath of the FY with the integral point control panel. As previously suggested I may review this arrangement.

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Bloody Hell !! :huh:

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What's your backup, if one of those point motors fail at 11am on a Saturday morning of the exhibition.

That's always at the back of my mind when planning/building a exhibition layout, which is why i always use manual point control, bike spoke, WIT ETC, which isn't a 100%  reliable, but i've only had one failure, in all the years of exhibiting and it was a 5 min fix, KISS.

 

Just asking!!!!:scratchhead::D

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, long island jack said:

What's your backup, if one of those point motors fail at 11am on a Saturday morning of the exhibition.

That's always at the back of my mind when planning/building a exhibition layout, which is why i always use manual point control, bike spoke, WIT ETC, which isn't a 100%  reliable, but i've only had one failure, in all the years of exhibiting and it was a 5 min fix, KISS.

 

Just asking!!!!:scratchhead::D

 

 

 

In my defence I would offer the following evidence:

  1. I have Cobalts on a number of layouts and have had no problems - I think they have a good reputation.
  2. CS is a very simple layout to maintain or repair. It can be flipped over in no time at all and stood on its rigid backscene once the plug in lighting rig is removed.
  3. I take spare PMs to a show so it should be easy to replace. The 90 degree adapter and operating wire can be transplanted easily. Removing one of the locating screws would allow the new PM to be aligned fairly easily.
  4. The only thing that would improve things would be to make the wiring connection a male female plug in chocolate block connector. Going to the trouble of doing this will guarantee the PMs never need replacing - obviously.
  5. In any case I will not be under a layout with a torch fighting gravity...

Just answering..... :)

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