Lighting For Coaches?

[Butler]

Hi

I hope this is the right forum for this, I put it under Modifiying RTR stock with no response:

I wasn’t going to go down the coach lighting route, but having a number of Emu’s with lights, they look so good. So I now have a load of Hornby emu’s without lights.  I’ve seen the auto lighting from Train Tech. They look pretty good, but at £20 per coach, it’s going to be an expensive job.

Has anyone got any ideas or thoughts? I’m not really up to fitting custom lights, pickups etc.

Thanks

B

[Graham108]

These are a lot cheaper - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333184919011?var=542200532810&

 

Graham

[AMJ]

One thing that you can do is to buy some pickups and lighting kits from https://www.layouts4u.net/

 

I fitted this with LED's that are on a small self adhesive strip onto the roof of my observation coach (and a DCC chip).  Thought I had a video but I might have uploaded directly to FB rather than YouTube.

 

They have 5m strips that can be cut down to size for a few pounds, these are 12v DC so you might want to put in place the rectifier and flicker free circuit if not fitting an old decoder.

 

[Yardman]

Make your own using SMD LED's and veroboard.

[AMJ]

https://www.layouts4u.net/flexible-led-strips/12-volt-flexible-led-strip/5-metre-roll-of-flexible-led-strip-12-volt-dc-warm-white

5m 12v LED's on a self adhesive strip, best to use a resistor to dim them a bit.

[Butler]

Thanks to everybody, lots of ideas, I’m going to go with the battery operated latching reed switch, method, it’s just so simple and reasonable. The only question is, which colour? Warm white or Amber. They are going in to Hornby 2 bil type units , and maybe some mark 1 coaches. I’m thinking warm white. Perhaps amber is to simulate gas lights, don’t know.

B

 

[RAF96]

See here

http://www.halton96th.org.uk/article2.html

and here

http://www.halton96th.org.uk/article3.html

 

I now standardise on ESU coach lighting pickups. DCCConcepts also do them.

 

 

 

 

 

[d00m]

6mm self adhesive copper tape (I cut it down to 3mm wide) is an alternative to vero board. really easy to solder to, but back it onto paper.

[Huw Griffiths]

3 hours ago, d00m said:

6mm self adhesive copper tape (I cut it down to 3mm wide) is an alternative to vero board. really easy to solder to, but back it onto paper.

 

When I installed strain gauges as part of a job, it was common practice to use masking tape to hold down thin wires for soldering.

 

If you're using masking tape (or indeed paper, backed with adhesive), you're probably best to be careful (and quick) when soldering.

 

Incidentally, after soldering a few strain gauges, it was standard practice to run over the gauges and the solder joints with some varnish, to protect against tarnishing. You won't get exactly the same varnish in the shops - but cheap nail varnish would probably work - although this could be clear, coloured might be useful, as you'd be able to see the areas covered (and those missed)!

 

 

Huw.

 

[ColinK]

I’ve used Layout4U battery powered lights in most of my coaches, easy to fit and fairly inexpensive.

 

I followed the instructions for the first batch of coaches and stuck the LED strip to the inside of the roof, after that I stuck the LED strip onto a coffee stirrer which I glued onto the tops of the compartments so if anything goes wrong, I’m not putting the soldering iron against the plastic roof.  On some Hornby coaches I used a smaller battery fitted underneath the coach - easy to change.

[Butler]

Hi

Thanks for the advice, but if the coach is a side corridor, with compartments, do you need to ensure all compartments have an led, and is there room for the unit between the compartment divider roofs and the coach roof?

i assume the light will shine from the compartments into the corridor.

B

[ColinK]

Apologies for the upside down pic, I’ve cut the LED strip into short sections linked by bits of wire, so one LED per compartment. I’ve also cut a bit out of the top of each compartment divider for the lights to fit.
 

 

 

[RAF96]

If posting pics from an iPad you need to take the pic with the iPad the right way up and also have the iPad the right way up when posting i.e. Home button under your right thumb.

[Butler]

Well, I have received and Fitted the Layouts 4U lights to  my 2Bil unit. They are so simple and easy to fit. The hardest part being , as usual, removing the bodies! The LED strips are self adhesive , come in a 12 light strip measuring about 20mm in total. The strip can be cut. As required, and resoldered , each led had a solder tag next to it. This means if you require a gap in the lights or whatever you can easily extend them.  I have cut the strip, as it was too long for the motor còach, extended the wires and put a cab light in. I have also fitted a tail light, by drilling a tiny hole in the rear cab back, where the tail oil lamp would be mounted, and mounting one of the spare leds behind, painted red , which shines nicely through the little hole, looking very effective.

As stated by a member earlier, the lights are a bit too bright, but at the suggestion of the supplier, I painted the Leds with Yellow Acrylic paint. This has worked fine, and depending how many coats you give, you can dim ( or change tone) as required. 

Operation is so simple, using a magnet, they can be operated simply as required. They can also be operated under a bridge or tunnel, if required. They cost about £6.50 per coach, which is quite reasonable, I feel.

I really am impressed.

I will,post some pictures when I have finished completely.

B

[Butler]

The finished article, the Layouts 4U lights fitted to 2 Bil, plus an extra spare led fitted inside, painted with the wife’s nail varnish, and a 1mm hole drilled to show the light! I thought I’d overrun the dimming by painting the led’s , but compared to a Bachmann 2Epb it’s about the same. Those old units had poor lighting anyway.

Apologies for the poor picture, not much light in the room. 

B

[brossard]

I will bump this thread.

 

I have some battery powered light strips from Layouts4U on the way.  These are for my 0 gauge Heljan Gresley coaches.  The price was right so buying these seem low risk.

 

https://www.layouts4u.net/coach-lighting-tail-lights/battery-coach-lighting-kits-and-tail-lights/kit-with-push-button-switch-o-scale-warm-white

 

I'm a bit skeptical about two things:

 

1)  Turning the lights on and

2)  Accessing the battery when it dies.

 

I am mulling modding the light set to pick up off the track.  However, the battery looks to be 3V DC while raw track power (DCC) is 15V AC.  I don't want to blow the lights.

 

Is someone knowledgeable enough to advise what I need to do.  I'm thinking maybe resistors.

 

John

Edited April 6, 2021 by brossard

[aleopardstail]

the look like normal single colour (in this case warm white) LEDs, the sort of thing you would use under a kitchen counter. hard to tell but I guess they have built in resistors for managing probably a 5v power supply which is not uncommon (also get 12v versions), running on 3v reducing the current draw and brightness somewhat to look better here.

 

to be honest you may find just buying the warm white LED strips direct from eBay better if you will be chucking the rest.

 

to drive them from the track you will want a suitable resistor to limit the current & drop the voltage, hard to say what without knowing the current the strip will draw but its usually something no more than 20mA per LED and can easily be a lot less. you will also want a diode that can handle the track voltage (50v ones are good), you wire this the wrong way round across the LEDs, but after the resistor - this handles the current flowing the other way to what the LEDs want (you could use a full rectifier but its not really needed).

 

I would be tempted to cut the LED strip in half, and wire each half the other way around, you then just need the resistor. how many LEDs does the strip have in total?

[brossard]

Thanks for taking the time to respond.  I'm really a numpty when it comes to lights.  I think the thing to do is to see how I like what's in the packet and go from there.

 

I haven't got the lights yet so don't have precise parameters.

 

 

John

 

[aleopardstail]

at that price best way is to experiment, have found with resistors for LEDs going higher is good, then end up dimmer, also not hard to stick a variable one in and fiddle with it to get a brightness you like - key is the diode going the other way, a rectifier diode off ebay is fine

[brossard]

Yes, I agree, I have some resistors so I can have a play.  Any idea of a good starting resistance?  I have some electronic components from decades ago so will see if there are any diodes.

 

Cheers

 

John

[aleopardstail]

would suggest something around 1k to start with, maybe a 1k and a 1k variable in series if you have one., if you don't have a diode though its worth getting some other LEDs to wire the other way around

[Butler]

Hi

To answer your original question, turning the lights on and off , using the latching reed switch, is just the wave of a magnet, which they sell as a telescopic wand, if required. As for changing the battery, I don’t know the life span, but other similar makes claim ‘ months of normal use, and tears on standby ‘ Once you have the knack of opening the coaches, it’s not a big deal. One problem I have encountered is sometimes the lights turn on or off when passing close to another loco, presumably because of the magnet in the loco.

But I’m sure Layouts 4u sell a 12 v led? 

You can buy a strip of leds without all the accessories, and cut them to length.

For the dimming of the lights I have found a very easy way. I cover the led strip with masking tape, and then paint the leds as required, the more coats, the dimmer the lights. And if you don’t like the effect, peel the tape off and try something  else. You can achieve the tone and dimness required. Eg I have dimmed and yellowed the older style coaches, and left mor modern stock , a bit brighter and whiter .

I hope this helps 

B

 

[brossard]

Lol Butler, I think I bought the wrong set with an actual switch - doh!

 

I have painted the lights of my Lionheart Mk1s yellow and this looks good.  The coaches came with lights already fitted so happy about that.  Having seen how these look, I am determined to illuminate my Heljan Gresleys.

 

As I said, I will see how things go.  I have heard the batteries last a long time.  Getting the roofs off is not that big a deal for battery replacement.

 

John

 

 

[Butler]

Hi

You probably read earlier in the blog that I have fitted rear red lights on the brake cars. I’ve even improved on this. On the Mk1 brakes I have taken a single led wired it to the roof strip, painted it with red nail varnish, and double sided it to a 1mm hole in the rear of the coach. Then fitting a gangway end door, the type with the tail lamp attached. Drilled a 1 mm hole through the lamp, then run a short length of 1mm fibre optic through the tail light and poked into the hole in the carrage( which I lined up with the lamp) It works superbly. 

As the leds can be cut and soldered at every lamp, you can fit the odd light anywhere, guards compt, toilet, vestibule etc. 

On dissapointing aspect, is that Bachman Mk1 Coaches have blanked out/ painted toilet windows, and the light does not shine through!

ive even got a plan, to try drilling tiny holes through a 2 bill headcode box in the shape of the appropriate numbers of the code, and see if an led will shine through giving an illuminated code. Not sure on that one. I’ll try it on a piece of plasticard first I think.

B

oh one thing to watch out, it’s easy to leave a light on accidentally, thus wasting the life !

[WIMorrison]

How do you pick up the current from the track - especially on 9mm gauge bogies? I have seen kits for 16.5mm gauge bogies but nothing for 9mm (other than the hopeless DCC Concepts axle springs that need you to take a wheel off the axle  )