RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 2, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 2, 2021 (edited) I've added most of the detailing parts, the dome has got some filler around its base that needs tidying up and the roof is still loose until i've painted inside the cab. I added some 0.4 copper wire to both of the lubricators on the tank ends, i'll add chain to the coupling hooks later. I've yet to add pickups but tested it out with trailing leads and it runs very nicely, the lead in the tanks and bunker certainly help. Has anyone come up with a way to stop the sprung buffers from rotating? or are ovals better of fixed? Dave Edited April 1, 2022 by k22009 10 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted April 2, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 2, 2021 1 hour ago, k22009 said: Has anyone come up with a way to stop the sprung buffers from rotating? or are ovals better of fixed? Looking good! I was asking myself the same question a few months ago, and could no longer find all those MRJs that suggest ways of doing it! I came up with this. I suppose the slot (the width of a saw blade) could go vertically too, depending on how you've arranged your buffer tails. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 2, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 2, 2021 7 minutes ago, Daddyman said: Looking good! I was asking myself the same question a few months ago, and could no longer find all those MRJs that suggest ways of doing it! I came up with this. I suppose the slot (the width of a saw blade) could go vertically too, depending on how you've arranged your buffer tails. Perfect, thanks David Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 Can I ask whose drawing you used for this? The rest of it looks very good but the cab front windows are a very strange shape, top ones not too bad but the vertical side ones are completely wrong. They should be semi circular in form top and bottom and the frames of these are on the inside of the cab (top ones are on the outside). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 3, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 3, 2021 (edited) On 03/04/2021 at 07:42, Michael Edge said: the cab front windows are a very strange shape, top ones not too bad but the vertical side ones are completely wrong. They should be semi circular in form top and bottom and the frames of these are on the inside of the cab (top ones are on the outside). Hi Mike It was one of the first things i'd noticed when i received the etches. A mistake on my part not the drawings i used. This is what the front cab looks like now on the updated drawing. Dave Edited April 1, 2022 by k22009 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Dave, What version of gearbox was used, presumably from Chris? A very neat build. THANKS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 The coupling hooks look a bit thin, but looking at your picture of your first etch did I see that you provided two layers for each hook? I am enjoying following this thread and the quality of your build. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 1 hour ago, k22009 said: Hi Mike It was one of the first things i'd noticed when i received the etches. A mistake on my part not the drawings i used. This is what the front cab looks like now on the updated drawing. Dave Still not quite right, the top windows have a much wider frame. These are hinged in the centre to twist open horizontally, the side ones have a hinged frame on the inside of the cab. This is my etch drawing for the 2F 0-6-0 I've just completed - most of these Derby designed windows are the same although the top ones may vary in height, whichever loco they were fitted to. Red parts are etched from the front, blue from the back, the separate frames fit into the recesses produced. I didn't do the hinge detail this time - nearly all the kits (not mine!) I've built have the error of a frame on the outside of the side windows which has to be laboriously filed off. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 3, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 3, 2021 58 minutes ago, Jack Benson said: Dave, What version of gearbox was used, presumably from Chris? A very neat build. THANKS Hi Jack, thanks yes i have used a High Level Loadhauler from Chris that fortunately i had in a box of spare gearboxes but a Roadrunner + would probably be fine too. I kept the frames at 12mm apart for OO so a smaller gearbox with a 12mm wide motor between frames is also possible, although better in EM/P4. 8 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: Still not quite right, the top windows have a much wider frame. These are hinged in the centre to twist open horizontally, the side ones have a hinged frame on the inside of the cab. This is my etch drawing for the 2F 0-6-0 I've just completed - most of these Derby designed windows are the same although the top ones may vary in height, whichever loco they were fitted to. Red parts are etched from the front, blue from the back, the separate frames fit into the recesses produced. I didn't do the hinge detail this time - nearly all the kits (not mine!) I've built have the error of a frame on the outside of the side windows which has to be laboriously filed off. Thanks Mike for the info i'll widen the frames on the horizontal pair, on this i have left the frames as full thickness material as i must admit i find small loose frames a bit of a battle, the balance of the cab front is half etched, in nickel silver it's seemed robust enough. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 Half etch is probably OK here, it's well supported and quite small - what thickness material is this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 3, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 3, 2021 It's all in 0.015". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 That's what we use in 4mm scale, you still didn't say where you got the drawing from, I've not seen a GA for these locos. I built mine nearly 50 years ago from the Roche drawing which I subsequently found to be full of errors (as do most of them). It looks pretty rough now but I was quite proud of it at the time and it does still work. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 3, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 3, 2021 (edited) I used an Ian Beattie drawing from a July 86 Railway Modeller, there aren't a shed full of decent photos either but some decent side on shots do allow to scale the dimensions as a check. It's looking good for a 50 year old. Edited April 3, 2021 by k22009 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 Judging from what you've done so far the Beattie drawing is a lot better the Roche. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 I've always liked these engines. Lovely job you've done on that etch. Not a numerous class so unlikely to be done RTR One I would want to have a go at, but I only go for inside cylinder locos cos I don't have the skills to assemble valve gear. A friend has one of these in 7mm coarse scale 3-rail. It's very reliable, and full of lead so will pull a decent load. Wheelbase is so short it will go round a dinner dish - of course that's why they were so handy in dockyards. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 3, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 3, 2021 5 hours ago, Gordon A said: The coupling hooks look a bit thin, but looking at your picture of your first etch did I see that you provided two layers for each hook? I am enjoying following this thread and the quality of your build. Gordon A Thanks Gordon I'm glad your finding it enjoyable, it has been a fairly straightforward build, i've been pleasantly surprised that it worked out ok. Yes there are a few hooks on the etch, if there has been a spare bit of space i've tried to add something useful in there that can be used elsewhere also. The hooks are .015" thick but yes it's perfectly feasible and probably looks better to laminate 2 together. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 3, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 3, 2021 (edited) If people are still wanting to try it out pm if you are, i'll work out how much it would cost (the more that are interested the cheaper it gets) and get back to you before going ahead. As it needs revising it will need a new photo tool preparing at the etchers, who i believe are a little stretched at the moment so it may take some time. I can add in some EM spacers, maybe compensation beams, balance weights, and a few spare bits and bobs that may also be helpful. I may be able to include a cast resin chimney, dome, smokebox door, back head and tank fillers if i can get them done, they're not perfect though by any means. That would leave safety valves (markits), whistle (markits), buffers (alan gibson) and sandbox fillers (wizard) and handrail knobs/wire (Eileens) to source. Dave Edited April 3, 2021 by k22009 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Michael Edge said: It looks pretty rough now Not at all. But all the built models displayed on this thread are let down by rather poorly shaped domes. I don't know LMS classes but could the Jinty not be used as a master for a resin cast? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Not sure about the Jinty dome, I thought the boilers were different. Perhaps a 2F dome? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Yes please, I would be interested in a kit. Would it be too much to aske for a set of frame spacers for P4 - 15mm wide please? Gordon A 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 11 hours ago, Michael Edge said: Still not quite right, the top windows have a much wider frame. These are hinged in the centre to twist open horizontally, the side ones have a hinged frame on the inside of the cab. This is my etch drawing for the 2F 0-6-0 I've just completed - most of these Derby designed windows are the same although the top ones may vary in height, whichever loco they were fitted to. Red parts are etched from the front, blue from the back, the separate frames fit into the recesses produced. I didn't do the hinge detail this time - nearly all the kits (not mine!) I've built have the error of a frame on the outside of the side windows which has to be laboriously filed off. You know those midland windows would be brilliant as a scratch building aid 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted April 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2021 11 hours ago, Michael Edge said: the 2F 0-6-0 I've just completed Now you wouldn't chance to be doing a round-topped firebox version with full Johnson fittings, i.e. as built 19th century condition, would you? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 4, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 4, 2021 21 hours ago, Blandford1969 said: You know those midland windows would be brilliant as a scratch building aid That's not a bad idea, I'm always looking for things to fill up etch space with. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold k22009 Posted April 6, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6, 2021 (edited) Just before the Arctic blast arrived this last couple of days here in the Highlands i managed to get the dock tank primed and top coated. The back head is being painted and the cab interior needs a lick so the roof is still loose. Smokebox number plate is from Brian at 247. The F of the 2F above the number isn't perfect on one side so i may remove it and try again They're pretty small and being pressfix not the easiest to manoeuvre into position. On with revising the etch now. Dave Edited April 1, 2022 by k22009 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted April 6, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 6, 2021 8 minutes ago, k22009 said: Just before the Arctic blast arrived this last couple of days here in the Highlands i managed to get the dock tank primed and top coated. The back head is being painted and the cab interior needs a lick so the roof is still loose. Smokebox number plate is from Brian at 247. The F of the 2F above the number isn't perfect on one side so i may remove it and try again They're pretty small and being pressfix not the easiest to manoeuvre into position. On with revising the etch now. Dave Very nicely done! I see you've numbered it as a proper Scottish loco too. The dome has come out looking better than it did in the raw. I don't know if you're aware, but there's a lovely two-page spread of this loco on a freight on the Balerno branch in the bookazine British Steam North of the Border (Mortons, 2010). A couple of colour shots of it too in Strathwood's Sixties Spotting Days around the Scottish Region. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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