sb67 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Can anyone recommend a rattle can primer, red oxide and grey that you can get online and dries really flat. I've been using stuff from the pound shop but getting fed up as I've not had one that dries flat for a while and it's causing problems later on. Thanks Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
apbolton Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I always use Halford primer, they do click and collect and delivery I believe. Always dries flat . 1 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted March 23, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2021 Second vote for Halfords' acrylic primer. Good coverage with a thin coat that doesn't obscure detail, and flat finish; more expensive than pound shop of course but not prohibitively so. A can I bought 3 years ago is still about 2 thirds full, and will probably outlast me... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 3 hours ago, sb67 said: Can anyone recommend a rattle can primer, red oxide and grey that you can get online and dries really flat. I've been using stuff from the pound shop but getting fed up as I've not had one that dries flat for a while and it's causing problems later on. Thanks Steve. I purchased my first can of Poundland grey primer on a whim a month or two ago, having always used Halfords - I thought I'd give it a whirl, and was pleasantly surprised with the results, especially as I model in N Scale. I experienced no problems and would buy it again in future. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crompton 33 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 When i respray a loco i use Halfords Plastic grey primer. white if the top coat is yellow on cabs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium njee20 Posted March 23, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 23, 2021 +1 for Halfords. I've heard it said it's made by Hycote, which I've bought online (it's cheaper, although their actual paints work out more expensive than Halfords), and haven't noticed any difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Bill37 Posted March 23, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 23, 2021 I use Wilko grey and white primers and had no problems with them, about a fiver for a 500ml can. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Must admit, personally I wouldn't trust any paint - of any type - from the Pound shop... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 5 minutes ago, F-UnitMad said: Must admit, personally I wouldn't trust any paint - of any type - from the Pound shop... I was sceptical too, but as a Halfords / Hycote user in the past - I can only relate back that it was absolutely fine, even coverage and good adherence of subsequent coats. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted March 23, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2021 I use Pound shop superglue. I also use good quality superglue, but find the Pound Shop product ideal for glueing joints that you might want to separate one day; the glue goes off and holds things in place but can easily be snapped if you want to take things apart again. The body of my Hornby 2721 is held to the Bachmann chassis in this way! Sometimes you don't want things to work properly... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikcdab Posted March 23, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2021 I also use Halfords primer and I find it great. To be honest, when our models cost so much in money and time to produce, it seems a false economy to use Poundland paint. Of course, maybe if you are priming large areas of scenery then cheap spray might be ok, but not on an expensive model.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Thus far I have only used it on building kits and styrene sheet etc, I would agree that tackling loco bodies and suchlike should warrant a high quality and reliable product... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 1 hour ago, The Johnster said: I use Pound shop superglue. I also use good quality superglue, but find the Pound Shop product ideal for glueing joints that you might want to separate one day ... like your fingers for example. 1 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 There is a train of thought that says you get what you pay for, and poundland products cannot be any good as they are too cheap. The Poundland paint seems to be Auto Extreme who seem to be registered in Bradford and can be purchased on eBay for £4.98 for 300ml as well as from Poundland for £1.00 for 300ml. I also have a can of Prodriver spray paint ( registered in Willenhall) which must have come from a Pound shop. The only issue I have had is the Matt paint dries eggshell if the room is too cold and too humid, somehow I don't think it's the paint's fault. For the car I use the Hycote concentrated double acryllic paint but it's nice and thick and covers the blemishes well which should make it useless for models as it will clog and fill the detail. Five times the price of Poundland paint and not as good for spraying models. Now that's getting your money worth. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted March 24, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2021 1 hour ago, Michael Hodgson said: ... like your fingers for example. I find the skin comes off readily enough when I want to separate my stuck fingers. Takes about a week to grow back... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted March 24, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2021 Another vote for Halfords. Their red primer is a top coat to me, for anything Victorian and red - it's a good batch for read led (Forth Bridge colour). For grey, I've used their plastic primer for mostly plastic objects. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium acg5324 Posted March 24, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2021 I’ve used Halfords in the past, no problems. I’m currently using Hycote as The Range stock it and its local to us....and they stock some colours too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 Method is more important than brand. A warm room. Warm the model with a hairdryer. Shake the can as directed and then place the can in a pan of hot (but not boiling) water for a minute or two before spraying. Enjoy result. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 Leaving the model on a (working) radiator also works, and don't forget to shake the can enthusiastically for at least 2 minutes, after warming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 24, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2021 28 minutes ago, jcm@gwr said: Leaving the model on a (working) radiator also works, and don't forget to shake the can enthusiastically for at least 2 minutes, after warming. Please define "enthusiastically"; is that different from "vigorously"? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 You should do it as hard as you can, just before the point that your arm hurts, which is right for both options! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted March 24, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2021 Another vote for Halfords. I even leave many of my goods wagons in primer for LMS grey. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted March 24, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24, 2021 1 hour ago, jcm@gwr said: Leaving the model on a (working) radiator also works, and don't forget to shake the can enthusiastically for at least 2 minutes, after warming. 43 minutes ago, DLT said: Please define "enthusiastically"; is that different from "vigorously"? 39 minutes ago, jcm@gwr said: You should do it as hard as you can, just before the point that your arm hurts, which is right for both options! I believe three minutes is recommended. The first minute is enthusiastic, the second is vigorous, the third is all about working through the pain barrier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) The important thing is to warm the can AFTER shaking. Something to do with physics and latent heat. Once thoroughly shaken the can is very cold to the touch. For perfect results use a brand new nozzle. Edited March 24, 2021 by doilum 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted March 24, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) 6 minutes ago, doilum said: The important thing is to warm the can AFTER shaking. Something to do with physics and latent heat. Once thoroughly shaken the can is very cold to the touch. For perfect results use a brand new nozzle. Interestingly I don't think I've ever had a problem with a Halfords nozzle (and very few with Humbrol or Testors Dulcote) . Sadly I can't say the same for all brands. Edited March 24, 2021 by Gilbert 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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