treggyman Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) Hi All I have been asked a few times how my home made autocouplings work & are made...... Indeed at exhibitions it is by far the most asked question & normally involves picking up a wagon to show how it works....... It's a relatively straight forward method the principal I came across when I was a member of Bodmin & District MRC. Two members, Nick Swettenham & Simon Addlsee (Brigiesimon) used them on their goods stock. Apparently they got the idea from Ian Rice,I assume from one of his books/publications. The principle is their's but I have developed them & the end result is the couplings I now make are different to those they made. First a couple of pics of them 'in action'.....In normal mode..... Apologies for the poor weathering........ Then in uncoupling mode..... The basic materials that I use are as below..... The hook & loops are made from 0.45mm Brass rod/wire..... I have used nickel silver in the past but the brass being more flexible enables fine adjustments/tweaks to be more easily achieved. The tube used for the pivot is 0.7mmID 0.9mmOD tube & is soldered to the hook. I have found that by having the hole of the tube larger than the wire it allows a bit of vertical 'slop' which helps overcome any potential unevenness in the track. The magnetic dropper wire is 30gauge florist wire. The square section plastic is used to provide a base to attach to the underfloor of the wagon. It can be any plastic that doesn't show below the buffer beam. It's main use is if fitting to open wagons as you don't want to drill holes in the floor & have the wire visible. Also it means that you can make the unit up & just glue it in place after manufacture. In some loco's it is not possible to use this & the couplings need drilling straight into the chassis or buffer beam...... Anyway I digress.... Next is a photo of the constituent parts of the coupling..... I hope the pictures are self explanetry.... I make the hook in two pieces & solder them together.....This is because I have found that the wire quite often breaks when bent back on itself...... The 'U' shaped piece of wire with the tube soldered to it will be soldered to the top side of the hook & a piece of florist wire is fixed to the end loop to form the dropper... I normally allow this to float free but it can be glued in a fixed position if required. Trial & error will determine the length required..... AS far as setting the hooks & loops I set them just behind the buffer heads..... This is because I like to shunt buffer to buffer....Letting the buffers do what they are designed to do.... These couplings probably wouldn't work well if you require them to push with the hook actually pushing the loop.... There would be a tendency for the hook to lift the end of the next wagon off the track.... I try & use a minimum of 3ft curves & they work fine,smaller radius would be a trial & error situation though beware of reverse curves.... Below is a diagram of them with solebars/wheels etc left out for clarity.......` As regards magnets I use circular neodynum magnets 6mm x 2mm..... They are quite small but very strong & require accuracy whilst positioning stock for uncoupling..... So you need to go as slow as possible....But it adds to the fun....... Because there is a small gap between the nose of the hook & the loop as the dropper goes over the magnet whilst being pushed you can see the hook jump.... Stop there .... Reverse & the hook rises.... Go forwards again & the delay action bar comes into operation as it sits on top of the loop...... Push wagon to required position & then reverse away.... One point about the magnets...... Make sure they are aligned so that the same pole faces up..... I have found that if you don't then after a while the dropper gets magnetised so you get the problem of same poles attracting & it won't uncouple...... The above is the basic idea.....All dimensions are how I do it but can be changed to suit your individual needs...... I've not yet found anything I haven't been able to fit one to.... Even my Hornby Ruston.....That required the coupling 'support' to be drilled into the chassis & glued in place..... Hopefully the above is of use..... Any questions don't hesitate to ask..... Cheers Bill Edited September 10, 2022 by treggyman To insert lost pictures 4 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2021 Hi Bill, I'm guessing all the stock is 'handed', ie,. hooks one end and loops the other ? Is there any preference to which way round you use the stock, does the remote process work both if the hook is on the loco and/or on the wagon ? Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 2 minutes ago, Stubby47 said: Hi Bill, I'm guessing all the stock is 'handed', ie,. hooks one end and loops the other ? Is there any preference to which way round you use the stock, does the remote process work both if the hook is on the loco and/or on the wagon ? Stu Hi Stu Yes the stock is handed & can only run one way round...... ie for instance all hooks to the left & all loops to the right..... I'm not sure I'm answering the second part of the question but each item of stock be it loco,coach or wagon has a hook on one end & a loop on the other..... It doesn't matter which end they are on so long as there is a different one on each adjoining end to enable them to couple..... If two ends with the same coupling type end up together they won't couple to each other as the loop ends would have no hook & the hook ends have no loop.... Hope that answers your question Cheers Bill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted March 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2021 5 minutes ago, treggyman said: It doesn't matter which end they are on This is the important bit I know your layouts shunt wagons to both left & right, so one way the hooks will be on the loco and the other way the hooks will be on the wagons. I just wondered if the uncoupling worked better one way (loco+hook/ wagon+loop) rather than other (loco+loop/wagon+hook). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) On 26/03/2021 at 20:56, Stubby47 said: This is the important bit I know your layouts shunt wagons to both left & right, so one way the hooks will be on the loco and the other way the hooks will be on the wagons. I just wondered if the uncoupling worked better one way (loco+hook/ wagon+loop) rather than other (loco+loop/wagon+hook). Hi Stu I've never noticed any difference...... & I've been using this type of coupling for over 20yrs The most important thing is to make sure the heights are all the same...I've made a simple height gauge made with a loop of stronger wire fixed to a bit of channel....Actually a station platform & canopy guide.....Though I made one for my son using a block of wood.... All the loops must buff against the loop on the gauge & all the hooks latch on to it... Hence the use of Brass wire as small adjustments can be made easily..... Hope that answers your question.... If not keep asking... Cheers Bill Edited September 10, 2022 by treggyman to reinsert lost picture 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted March 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2021 Aha! So that's how it works! Nice. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 27, 2021 Took me a while to find this thread but I think this is just what I've been looking for my 4mm cameo layout. On the line I'm modelling (all be it a pretend station) all the locos had chimneys facing East, so the handed issue isn't a problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 27, 2021 I'm also pondering if this is scalable to 7mm... Do you know if anyone has done that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 8 hours ago, 2ManySpams said: I'm also pondering if this is scalable to 7mm... Do you know if anyone has done that? Hi Chris Yes it is..... I dabbled in 'O' for a short time & used them for the project & they worked fine..... Cheers Bill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 27, 2021 Chris, do you need to scale them for 7mm? Maybe they might need to be a bit longer, but otherwise the same dimensions should work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 27, 2021 On 27/08/2021 at 20:12, Stubby47 said: Chris, do you need to scale them for 7mm? Maybe they might need to be a bit longer, but otherwise the same dimensions should work. Was thinking of slight increases in wire gauge to cope with the bigger mass of the 7mm stock. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 1 hour ago, 2ManySpams said: Was thinking of slight increases in wire gauge to cope with the bigger massif the 7mm stock. Hi Chris Probably depends on the length/weight of rake. When I did mine over 20 years ago I used paper clips because that's all I had available as wire......Wasn't aware of brass/nickel wire being available...... Far to heavy duty although worked well. Probably a slight increase in wire diameter would be better but it really depends on the length of train & thus the weight of train being pulled. Using Nickel silver wire instead of brass would increase the strength & reduce the possibility of the wire bending under the strain of being pulled but keep the diameter the same thus keeping the coupling as unobtrusive as possible..... As an aside..... I've had instances when stock has derailed & a vehicle has become jammed..... When this has happened occasionally a coupling will break but normally the whole train stops dead with no damage or readjustment required.... By the nature of the coupling there is a certain amount of 'flex' built in as by nature the wire is 'springy'. Hope this helps...... Cheers Bill 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted August 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 27, 2021 1 minute ago, treggyman said: Hi Chris Probably depends on the length/weight of rake. When I did mine over 20 years ago I used paper clips because that's all I had available as wire......Wasn't aware of brass/nickel wire being available...... Far to heavy duty although worked well. Probably a slight increase in wire diameter would be better but it really depends on the length of train & thus the weight of train being pulled. Using Nickel silver wire instead of brass would increase the strength & reduce the possibility of the wire bending under the strain of being pulled but keep the diameter the same thus keeping the coupling as unobtrusive as possible..... As an aside..... I've had instances when stock has derailed & a vehicle has become jammed..... When this has happened occasionally a coupling will break but normally the whole train stops dead with no damage or readjustment required.... By the nature of the coupling there is a certain amount of 'flex' built in as by nature the wire is 'springy'. Hope this helps...... Cheers Bill Thanks for the responses Bill, very helpful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ASMO Posted September 9, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 9, 2022 Hi Bill, I have just read your article with interest. Alas non of the images are now viewable due to the great crash. Do you still have the images to hand and are your able to re-post them? Many thanks Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted September 9, 2022 Author Share Posted September 9, 2022 9 hours ago, ASMO said: Hi Bill, I have just read your article with interest. Alas non of the images are now viewable due to the great crash. Do you still have the images to hand and are your able to re-post them? Many thanks Peter Hi Peter, I've got them stored somewhere.... I'll dig them out & repost hopefully in the next day or two when I've a moment to find them.... Cheers Bill 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted September 10, 2022 Author Share Posted September 10, 2022 Hi Peter, Pictures restored.... Hopefully you can see them....I can.... If not shout & I'll try again...... Cheers Bill 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted September 10, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 10, 2022 Fully visible 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ASMO Posted September 10, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 10, 2022 Thanks Bill, perfectly illustrated. Looks better than the mini tension lock couplings currently fitted to my stock. When time permits I will experiment with the coupling fitted to a couple of wagons and see how it goes. Regards Peter 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted September 10, 2022 Author Share Posted September 10, 2022 44 minutes ago, ASMO said: Thanks Bill, perfectly illustrated. Looks better than the mini tension lock couplings currently fitted to my stock. When time permits I will experiment with the coupling fitted to a couple of wagons and see how it goes. Regards Peter Hi Peter I'd be interested in how you get on so let us know how it works out for you.... Cheers Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ASMO Posted September 11, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2022 Certainly Bill, I was wondering if I could tweak the coupling to be compatible with the current mini tension lock couplings and still keep the delayed action bar. It’s a long shot but I will give it a try. If It works it will help operations as I change my stock from one system to the other in batches. regards Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted September 11, 2022 Author Share Posted September 11, 2022 14 hours ago, ASMO said: Certainly Bill, I was wondering if I could tweak the coupling to be compatible with the current mini tension lock couplings and still keep the delayed action bar. It’s a long shot but I will give it a try. If It works it will help operations as I change my stock from one system to the other in batches. regards Peter Hi Peter It certainly is possible as the original idea was for the coupling to be coupled up to standard ( then the huge tension lock couplings ). All you need to do is increase the gap between the end of the hook & the 'delayed action 'bar.....You will probably need to slightly change the angle of the hook ( decrease ) & slightly increase the length of the delayed action bar ( & or change the angle ( increase ) ) so that the tension lock ' hook ' will pass between. Look forward to hearing how you get on. Cheers Bill 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ASMO Posted September 11, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2022 Hi Bill, thanks for the pointers. Regards Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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