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1 hour ago, KeithMacdonald said:

 

Hi Tony

 

You're correct to question it :-)

My track-laying in AnyRail might have obscured the detail in the map underneath, and I might have unwittingly "optimised" (or fudged) it to suit the Hornby OO track I'd used in the first version in AnyRail. Here's the map with no track:

 

image.png.5ac577d40793b97f6bffb49efaae6c2b.png

 

And here's a new version that you might prefer, using mostly Peco points, but a couple more Shinohara as well, and more flextrack.

 

image.png.365f941c1478abc0f001a70d9b5bfc57.png

 

Hope that helps.

 

@Andy Keane - I'll email you the new version.

 

 

Thanks Keith, thats clearer.

 

That is the pre 1915 layout, after which the diamond crossing was removed, and

the more familiar layout, as in most pics, was installed.

 

Either is valid, but each has a different station throat, which Andy will need to

choose, before settling on the plan. Although I suspect it may actually be easier

to get a commercial trackwork to fit the earlier layout.

 

Decisions, decisions. One of the joys of starting a layout.

 

TONY

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11 hours ago, KeithMacdonald said:

 

It took me a bit of trawling the AnyRail forum to find how it's done.

 

Step 1:

Open AnyRail for a new file, so you have a blank canvas.

 

Step 2:

On the Insert tab, click Add rectangle...

 

image.png.f9896f7301d0f4ad1e67439af97e9505.png

 

... then click somewhere on the blank canvas and a grey rectangle/square should appear.

 

image.png.a6458d2e9c6ef57d2e8570076e636e1a.png

 

Step 3:

(This is the tricky bit)

if you click on the main body of the grey rectangle/square, nothing happens. But if you click on the border of it, the border turns green and a grab handle appears (which can be used to rotate it).

 

image.png.a83298ff2f2c6dfebe70dbcdea38ee61.png

 

Also: the Tab bar switches to the Tools/Surfaces tab with more controls available.

 

image.png.dc45c24ea8ef907c40ed40e8fd6ed5ce.png

 

See the "Load Image" button, furthest right? Click on that.

 

Step 4

A File Dialog window should appear, so you can choose whatever image you would like to use as a background.

e.g.

image.png.d36930c3225af33566036dc4393e72fa.png

 

Choose {whatever} and Open

 

Step 5

You should now be back on the main canvas, with a thumbnail-sized image inside the grey square.

 

image.png.1d3d46cd8ba1aa36d9f1661183050444.png

 

Which is a bit of an anti-climax, until you click on the border of the square (again), then look at the toolbar again.

 

image.png.cf89f1854e69bd830d30038eb5165ad7.png

 

Make sure the [X] Maintain aspect ratio is checked, then change the width to something more suitable like 600, then click Adjust Outline.

The image will magically get much bigger. :-)

 

As for making the image the correct size, by trial and error I've found I get best results by

(a) including the map distance ruler (zoomed to 50 metres),

(b) placing it on a grid of 65cm,

(c) iteratively adjusting the width and clicking "Adjust outline" until the 50m ruler matches the grid width

 

That seems to give me an "OO sized map" that's just about right. Others might have a better / quicker method which I'd gladly learn.

 

image.png.e1bd69c849f8102ebbda79604940a58f.png

 

Hope that helps?

 

Keith - many thanks for this - I will give it a go - I am impressed you have figured this process out - not obvious to a new user like me!

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10 hours ago, Mulgabill said:

 

Thanks Keith, thats clearer.

 

That is the pre 1915 layout, after which the diamond crossing was removed, and

the more familiar layout, as in most pics, was installed.

 

Either is valid, but each has a different station throat, which Andy will need to

choose, before settling on the plan. Although I suspect it may actually be easier

to get a commercial trackwork to fit the earlier layout.

 

Decisions, decisions. One of the joys of starting a layout.

 

TONY

I am definitely going for the later layout. I suspect the best compromise between a pure hand built point and one from Peco is to use the kits from finescale and modify the shape during construction - although a curved point should really have a curved frog I think I will see how one of theirs turns out when suitable modified (pun intended).

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On 10/04/2021 at 16:14, Andy Keane said:

The work on the CAD of the shed progresses.

I have completed the structure:

loco_shed.jpg.de12e47407b6ba3c5644ba1ff2f5c8cc.jpg

The roof trusses are overscale but will not be visible and I want them to be quite strong.

I am now drawing up the stonework so that this can be etched onto the sides by the laser at the same time as cutting.

This is slow work:

shed_front_laser..jpg.a1e9a9f38a32f496767289b730ef3ccc.jpg

Jakub at LCUT creative is going to have a go at cutting this for me in 2.6mm board - it will be great if he can do this.

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On 10/04/2021 at 16:14, Andy Keane said:

The work on the CAD of the shed progresses.

I have completed the structure:

loco_shed.jpg.de12e47407b6ba3c5644ba1ff2f5c8cc.jpg

The roof trusses are overscale but will not be visible and I want them to be quite strong.

I am now drawing up the stonework so that this can be etched onto the sides by the laser at the same time as cutting.

This is slow work:

shed_front_laser..jpg.a1e9a9f38a32f496767289b730ef3ccc.jpg

Jakub is getting there!IMG_20210507_133827.jpg.6f1a3997224792a9eab639c56ca45749.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

This is the spline drawing for the rear wall. It is quite random but has a few more regular courses plus various brick inserts. LCUT will engrave this onto 3mm ply in due course. It is held as a DXF file which many codes read - if anyone would like a copy just let me know.loco_shed_rear.png.201c7d1eea3e83adaf82dfae8e06f35f.png

Edited by Andy Keane
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Posted (edited)

Have base coated the unpainted  trial part with a cream meths based primer - this dries very fast and is less likely to cause the wood to warp. Lefthand side is thinned, while right hand side is not and seams to do a slightly better job of filling in the mortar lines, though when wet it looks the other way around. I will next add some colour for the bricks and stones in acrylic. Meanwhile I will also try bevelling the edges of the other test part.20210523_123716.jpg.22102fd6167d9efa3381efa2ed90f53a.jpg

Edited by Andy Keane
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Posted (edited)

Have had a first go at painting up the engine shed front. Not sure what I think as yet but its a start. Sand yellow over the white primer then a mix of grey, burnt umber, orange etc. I think the mortar lines are maybe a bit too prominent so will probably aim to tone them down on the real thing.20210523_191618.jpg.87bc21cff524083c31beb83d297f01f2.jpg20210523_193601.jpg.ea414024e3117c7347241859cd181a42.jpg20210523_201957.jpg.f71dea7d0840fbdc5dc7ed34fe261077.jpg20210523_202422.jpg.cf394d1ca3d73b0ca19e3f6267ccece5.jpg

Edited by Andy Keane
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Another attempt at painting a test part with darker mortar lines and toned down yellow brick (though they are very striking on the real buildings). What do people think?20210525_205812.jpg.3f026ac24fba7d420a7ca5ff20f5096e.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Using a single finescale point as suggested by Keith Macdonald I now have a trackplan that just needs that one point that is not standard Peco streamline code 100:Helston_code100.jpg.f7820fa86c9cdce73071603dcdfc8f0d.jpg

In reality looking at photos the entrance point is almost a three-way point - two curved points that are almost laid on top of each other - it would be an interesting scratchbuild to acheive that!

My fiddle yard is designed to deal with the typical 1930's trafic which would normally only need a single rake of coaches not more than six long plus 20-30 wagons and two engines at most at Helston and one shunter permanently in the fiddle yard.

Edited by Andy Keane
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Posted (edited)

Have now started on the CAD of the goods shed. Does anyone know when the extra flat roofed extension was added to the office? I think I may omit this as a too recent change.layout.jpg.c956fe5726edb6f86789d41801249ac9.jpg

Edited by Andy Keane
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On 11/06/2021 at 14:56, Andy Keane said:

20210611_145146.jpg.fe10c3e678a8f954f6e6c51bd299864b.jpg

 

First coat of paint and also a window tried for size.

 

That looks better with the coat of primer, Andy.

 

When you were putting it together I was worried it would look a bit too regimented for

a rough stone build. (Being laser cut). But the paint seems to have helped.

 

Just please don't be in too much of a hurry to get the other colours on.

 

All the best

TONY

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2 hours ago, Mulgabill said:

 

That looks better with the coat of primer, Andy.

 

When you were putting it together I was worried it would look a bit too regimented for

a rough stone build. (Being laser cut). But the paint seems to have helped.

 

Just please don't be in too much of a hurry to get the other colours on.

 

All the best

TONY

My plan is to give all the bricks a base coat of yellow sand colour and the stones a grey. Then revisit the pointing before the painstaking business of a stone by stone over-paint in mixed colours. I guess patience is the answer. When I get too stressed by the brush I will switch to other things!

Edited by Andy Keane
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