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Chorley Works - Kirk, Isinglass coaches, P2 in BR Blue, Millholme Merchant Navy, Hornby Bulleids


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Having been on RMweb for some few years now, and commented on the work of many folk, I thought it was only fair to start offering up my own efforts for comment and criticism.

 

The title of the thread comes from the place of my childhood in central Lancashire, a very interesting and happy area indeed to grow up in the '60's and '70's.

 

Whilst I have selected the area of "Kitbuilding and Scratchbuilding", there will from time to time be items relating to RTR that may be of interest, mainly in respect of improvements, resprays etc. I didn't particularly wish to have threads in several places, not least as my work progress is generally slow, verging on glacial, and there may well be gaps of some time between entries.

 

To start, I've been working for a while on some Gresley non corridor stock in 4mm, made from the now venerable Ian Kirk kits, and enhanced by a variety of items from the MJT range, founded by Mike Trice and now under the Dart Castings umbrella.

 

Gresley non corridor stock - Ian Kirk kits

 

The kits involved are the 4 compartment Brake 3rd, the Composite without corridor or lavatory, and an articulated set to Dia.242 that I've created from the standard 1st and 3rd coaches. These make for an unconvincing rake that could only really have run for the very affluent, even in the Home Counties, and I have one of the Hornby Thompson Brake 3rd's as well to add a bit of balance.

 

The first photo shows all four coaches prior to painting, but substantially complete, with the Composite dismantled to show my method of construction. The bodyshell of roof, sides and ends is assembled as one unit, which suits my method of spray painting, the interior consists of a thin plasticard floor with seating units and partitions glued on, and the chassis consists of the Kirk floor and solebars, with the various MJT detailing parts attached by superglue. The bogies are those with the kit, which seem to clean up quite well, with brass bearings for the axles, and attached to the floor using the self tapping screws in the kit. You can also see the little white plastic blocks glued to the body sides, which will sit on the floor as I've made the bodyshell to be an interference fit with the chassis. As my stock doesn't leave home any damage as a result will only be due to my negligence!

 

The articulated set uses an MJT Gresley heavy duty bogie at centre, with a nut soldered underneath. An 8BA bolt passes from above, through two plastic arms from the chassis ends, to make the articulation. The coaches were tested on my layout for clearance on my tightest curves, and much to my surprise given the relatively small distance allowed, they actually passed.

 

All painting is done by spraying, as despite many years of trying I regard my brush painting to be quite rubbish, and totally unable to stand up against the finish on today's excellent RTR. The spraying uses a Badger 200 that I've had for decades, albeit with some new parts, and an AS186 (I think) Compressor bought a few years back for what can only be described as a remarkably small amount of money. Paint is Railmatch BR crimson enamel, and also Weathered black ends and chassis, and Phoenix Precision BR freight grey for the roofs. All very lightly weathered to take the edge off the colour.

 

The second and third pictures show the whole rake all but finished, and also a picture of the Artic. set. The "all but finished" refers to the fact that I've run out of the "First Class" and "No Smoking" transfers off HMRS Pressfix sheet 14, which now seems to be generally unavailable. Hopefully it will become so after the Pandemic has abated, and as the bodyshells aren't glued they can be lifted off for the transfers to be applied.

 

My thanks to both Mike Trice and Andrew (Headstock) for detailed advice in the course of the project to do with the undergubbins on the Artic. set, specifically the locations of the Battery boxes and also the Regulator boxes introduced by the LNER during the 1930's.

 

John.

 

 

IMG_1152 copyweb2.jpg

 

 

IMG_1109 copyweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1113 copyweb.jpg

Edited by John Tomlinson
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34 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

Having been on RMweb for some few years now, and commented on the work of many folk, I thought it was only fair to start offering up my own efforts for comment and criticism.

 

Hi John,

 

My recollection is that your comments are always helpful. I do have 4 or 5 ex LSWR/SECR coach kits to build but have never attempted this art so I will follow your thread with interest. The rake LNER coaches look very good and very well painted.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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1 hour ago, 30368 said:

 

Hi John,

 

My recollection is that your comments are always helpful. I do have 4 or 5 ex LSWR/SECR coach kits to build but have never attempted this art so I will follow your thread with interest. The rake LNER coaches look very good and very well painted.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Thank you Richard, that is very kind.

 

I have to say that having seen your loco building I can't beleve that coaches would constitute much of a problem. They do however, in my limited experience, take a lot longer than one might think, there being detail on roof, sides, ends and most of all underneath. Plus an interior to be cobbled together with seating bits and plasticard.

 

At least if you do BR (SR) coaches there isn't any lining, which helps in the finish!

 

John.

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Isinglass 3D printed coaches

 

Inspired by the efforts of Andy of Coulsdon Works, in the course of last year I dipped my toe in the water with one of these Isinglass products, the Gresley Dia.109 Sleeper third.

 

I ordered the package to include base and bogies, and the first two pictures shows what arrived in the early stages of assembly, including a drawing from the Isinglass collection done by the present proprietor's father.

 

The instructions are clear, don't attempt to cut or pare the resin with a knife, as this is likely to lead to fracture. This is good advice, as I discovered on the one time that tried to use a knife for a bit of cleaning up. The windows come with strengthening ribs across them for printing purposes, and cutting can easily be done using Xurons, as we'd use on track. I have an old pair of these, that have done a lot of track and getting a bit blunt, they are however great for this purpose or cutting parts off the sprue on plastic kits. One of the metal nail files from Boots was ideal for filing any stubbs left over, or moulding lumps from the printing process.

 

A lot of 3D prints one sees are like layers of cement set in blocks, needing a lot of work to render them acceptable. This wasn't the case here, although I did use some moderate wet and dry wrapped around a piece of small brass square to rub inside the coach panelling to make it super smooth. Everything was then scrubed with Cif in warm water and rinsed.

 

The kit instructions suggest using superglue for assembly. I didn't like this idea as I was concerned it would set too quickly, and hence went for Araldite Rapid, the five minute stuff. Having checked the side to end fits beforehand, fettled the various mateing ledges, and numbered the bits, I attached one side to the base, and then the two ends. I checked without glueing that the second side would fit correctly and let the glue go off. The second side was then glued.

 

The roof has little ledges inside to fit against the ends, and these were fettled to get a nice interference fit. I normally prefer to make a five part bodyshell of sides, ends and roof on coaches, however in this case the base is designed with a slot to hold the sides (just visible in the second photo), and they can't safely be removed once fitted for fear of damage. So I settled for having a roof to be secured at the end after painting and glazing.

 

Underframe parts were MJT, their lovely turnbuckle etch plus castings for vacuum cylinders, battery boxes and dynamo, also the roof vents. The vertical door grab rails are from an MJT etch. I cobbled together an interior with a proprietory moulding from compartment stock, duly modified.

 

For painting after final good scrub of Cif and warm water I started with Precision Phoenix two part etch primer, then after curing moved to Railmatch enamels for the body and uunderneath. The roof is Precision Phoenix BR freight grey. All of this is airbrushed.  Transfers from HMRS Pressfix, and finally a light wash in brown grot (Railmatch Sleeper grime), nearly all removed with thinner to leave a residue in the panelling and take the edge off the colour. The roof was given a very mild dusting of a dark grey, I think perhaps the "weathered black".

 

Photos 3 and 4 show both sides of the completed vehicle.

 

John.

 

 

IMG_1168 copyweb2.jpg

 

 

IMG_1172 copyweb2.jpg

 

 

IMG_1118 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1115 copyRMweb.jpg

Edited by John Tomlinson
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  • John Tomlinson changed the title to Chorley Works - Kirk, Isinglass coaches

Hello John always a pleasure when I see a contribution from you on my thread. These are very nice models. Are there recesses in the window area on the Isinglass to allow virtual flush glazing? Is the glazing included? 
 

best wishes Brian

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2 hours ago, 46256 said:

Hello John always a pleasure when I see a contribution from you on my thread. These are very nice models. Are there recesses in the window area on the Isinglass to allow virtual flush glazing? Is the glazing included? 
 

best wishes Brian

Thank you Brian, I thought it was time I put some of my stuff up for comment!

 

There are recesses in the sides to achieve a better appearance in the glazing. I can't remember if glazing sheet was included in the kit or not, however I have just taken receipt of another coach from Isinglass, and that didn't have glazing included. I have a big sheet, I think from Slaters, in my cupboard that comes out in these circumstances.

 

Whilst I'm reasonably pleased with the outcome on the sleeper, at some point in the construction the resin sides developed a bow down to the centre - those battery boxes must be very heavy! - and this despite me being extremely careful about how and where the coach was stored. I tried the hot water method to bend it to be a bit less bowed, but without success, and as the resin is quite brittle I decided not to be too rough for fear of major damage. The bow doesn't show too much unless viewed from end on.

 

John.

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On 07/04/2021 at 12:37, John Tomlinson said:

Isinglass 3D printed coaches

 

Inspired by the efforts of Andy of Coulsdon Works, in the course of last year I dipped my toe in the water with one of these Isinglass products, the Gresley Dia.109 Sleeper third.

 

I ordered the package to include base and bogies, and the first two pictures shows what arrived in the early stages of assembly, including a drawing from the Isinglass collection done by the present proprietor's father.

 

The instructions are clear, don't attempt to cut or pare the resin with a knife, as this is likely to lead to fracture. This is good advice, as I discovered on the one time that tried to use a knife for a bit of cleaning up. The windows come with strengthening ribs across them for printing purposes, and cutting can easily be done using Xurons, as we'd use on track. I have an old pair of these, that have done a lot of track and getting a bit blunt, they are however great for this purpose or cutting parts off the sprue on plastic kits. One of the metal nail files from Boots was ideal for filing any stubbs left over, or moulding lumps from the printing process.

 

A lot of 3D prints one sees are like layers of cement set in blocks, needing a lot of work to render them acceptable. This wasn't the case here, although I did use some moderate wet and dry wrapped around a piece of small brass square to rub inside the coach panelling to make it super smooth. Everything was then scrubed with Cif in warm water and rinsed.

 

The kit instructions suggest using superglue for assembly. I didn't like this idea as I was concerned it would set too quickly, and hence went for Araldite Rapid, the five minute stuff. Having checked the side to end fits beforehand, fettled the various mateing ledges, and numbered the bits, I attached one side to the base, and then the two ends. I checked without glueing that the second side would fit correctly and let the glue go off. The second side was then glued.

 

The roof has little ledges inside to fit against the ends, and these were fettled to get a nice interference fit. I normally prefer to make a five part bodyshell of sides, ends and roof on coaches, however in this case the base is designed with a slot to hold the sides (just visible in the second photo), and they can't safely be removed once fitted for fear of damage. So I settled for having a roof to be secured at the end after painting and glazing.

 

Underframe parts were MJT, their lovely turnbuckle etch plus castings for vacuum cylinders, battery boxes and dynamo, also the roof vents. The vertical door grab rails are from an MJT etch. I cobbled together an interior with a proprietory moulding from compartment stock, duly modified.

 

For painting after final good scrub of Cif and warm water I started with Precision Phoenix two part etch primer, then after curing moved to Railmatch enamels for the body and uunderneath. The roof is Precision Phoenix BR freight grey. All of this is airbrushed.  Transfers from HMRS Pressfix, and finally a light wash in brown grot (Railmatch Sleeper grime), nearly all removed with thinner to leave a residue in the panelling and take the edge off the colour. The roof was given a very mild dusting of a dark grey, I think perhaps the "weathered black".

 

Photos 3 and 4 show both sides of the completed vehicle.

 

John.

 

 

IMG_1168 copyweb2.jpg

 

 

IMG_1172 copyweb2.jpg

 

 

IMG_1118 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_1115 copyRMweb.jpg

Hello John. I’ve just found your thread and I think the sleeper looks fantastic. I’ve been considering having a go with one of the Isinglass kits and so it’s very encouraging to see that they can produce good results. 

 

Did you use the Isinglass bogies, and if so, what wheels did you use with them? 

 

Thanks for sharing your work and I’ll look forward to seeing more in future. 

 

Mark

 

Edited by Mark90
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40 minutes ago, Mark90 said:

Hello John. I’ve just found your thread and I think the sleeper looks fantastic. I’ve been considering having a go with one of the Isinglass kits and so it’s very encouraging to see that they can produce good results. 

 

Did you use the Isinglass bogies, and if so, what wheels did you use with them? 

 

Thanks for sharing your work and I’ll look forward to seeing more in future. 

 

Mark

 

Thank you for your kind comments.

 

I did use the Isinglass bogies which come with axle holes ready to take brass bearings. The wheels maybe some Romfords, but more likely are some old Bachmann coach wheels. I bought a job lot of these years ago, they are the cheapo type with the plastic joiner piece in the middle rather than a continuous axle, however for reasons that I don't understand they seem to run quite true! They could do with a coat of grot coloured paint however, something I realise from seeing the photos.

 

As it happens I'm in process of doing my second Isinglass example, the Kitchen Car with the six wheel bogies. This seems to be going quite well, and I'll post some pictures in a while when I have something reasonable to show.

 

John.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The Hornby P2 - a different look

 

When Hornby introduced their P2 my interest was a bit limited being a BR era modeller. However, they were iconic locos, their rebuilding was one of the most divisive issues in British locomotive history, and also they must have being stunning to see. On top of that I was curious to see how Hornby built a model to go round sharpish curves with fully flanged drivers!

So I bought the Railroad version with its half hearted lining, for just over £70 IIRC at the Peterborough Show when they first appeared.

 

Performance wasn't bad, the whole thing ran very smoothly, although analysis on here quickly concluded that replacement with a 5 pole motor under reference X9108 would do a lot for slow speed running. This is easy to do, and both my models are so modified.

 

Roll on a few years and I managed to pick up one of the "full fat" versions on Ebay, for not much more than my original purchase. Very pretty with the full lining, although it comes from the "design clever" era and would have been better without some moulded handrails. I concluded I'd have to live with these as removal would as like as not make a real mess of the otherwise stunning finish.

 

I'd been pondering a "what if" repaint for a while with my Railroad example, taking the opportunity to sort out the handrails and one or two other bits and bobs. There have been a number done in BR green and shown on RMweb, so I decided to have a go at the BR steam blue scheme, for something a bit different.

 

So off I went, rubbing down the factory numbers and lettering, and replacing the handrails with turned knobs and wire. Thanks to Graeme King, I realised that a bit of careful leverage could get the front off, enabling the upper handrail to be replaced, along with the smokebox handles. I chose to leave the replacement for the latter in brass, something I'll probably change. I removed the ACFI apparatus, as the LNER would have done in time, and added Hornby's bits and pieces from their little goodies bag. Paint is Railmatch enamel Steam Blue and general Black, including doing the wheels, and lining is the LNER style from HMRS Pressfix. Doncaster worksplates are from 247 Developments.

 

As this is fiction, I assumed that the LNER kept the original style - the A4 style streamling fad wasn't continued by either Thompson or Peppercorn - and that having sorted out the mechanical issues of the rotary valve gear and the weak crank axle a production series of 50 were ordered, taking nos. 201 - 250 in the 1946 scheme, becoming BR 60201 - 60250. The locos were capable of running at speed, but were concentrated on the heavier services, over more difficult routes particularly in Scotland, and as such complementing the existing fleet of Pacifics.

 

I haven't decided on a name for the loco yet. I'm tempted by "William Wallace" Scottish revolutionary from the 13th century, then again I could assume clairvoyance by the LNER Board and go for "Nicola Sturgeon". Perhaps not.

 

The pics. below include a pose next to Bachmann's A1 in Blue, 60161 "North British".

 

John.

 

 

IMG_1217 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1212 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1210 copyRMweb.jpg

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  • John Tomlinson changed the title to Chorley Works - Kirk, Isinglass coaches, P2 in BR Blue, Millholme Merchant Navy

Millholme Merchant Navy

 

This is very much a work in progress, and having got to the stage of a free rolling chassis under a basic bodyshell and tender, I'm taking a long, hard look at the proportions and relative positions of features, as I'll explain below.

 

I almost bought this by mistake, as a part assembled kit off ebay. I put in a very low bid, and a nanosecond before tapping in a little bit more at the ebay prompt, the numbers changed. Still a low price, but not as low as I'd intended!

 

It is a series 3 MN, so for 35021 - 35030. I think some of the issues considered below may arise because of common castings used by the manufacturer for a lot of the parts. That isn't a complaint at all, as for many years this was the only way to have an air-smoothed MN.

 

The thing arrived, a badly glued white metal body and etched brass chassis, I think using Evostik. Also something had been dropped on the bodyside, as it had a big dent. No option therefore but the big pan of boiling water to help fracture the glued joints and then dismantle. Parts were then carefully cleaned off, and straightened, including the dented side. An inventory revealed some detail bits were missing, ashpan, smoke deflectors and instructions being the main three, with some little bits beside. An order to RT models sorted the first two, plus a set of their lovely cab window etches. I'm very grateful to Richard (30368) on here for scanning a set of instructions for me, also his build thread and photos have helped a great deal.

 

The main castings are heavy and substantial, and took some careful fettling and fitting to get to the present state, assembly with low melting point solder. The tender has gone together quite well, but I suspect needs a bit more work as I'll explain.

 

I was very concerned to get the proportions right, and a study of photos and some drawings suggested the following;

 

1)  There should be a slight taper down to the cab roof in the top of the firebox cladding. Indeed the firebox shape at the top seems not much different to that on the Gresley Pacifics, and the cladding follows that. The kit has this taper a bit overdone, I suspect the cab roof maybe a tad low, and also the boiler and firebox cladding a tad high.

 

2) in any event, the mouldings for the roof seem to be somewhat overly convex, rather than a flattish ellipse. I have flattened these off a bit, keeping a good curve but less so, and this has helped with the overall profile viewed side on. I've lost Millholme's moulded detail in the process, and will  try to replace by rescribing.

 

3) The bottom of the cab window frame, the top of the tender front turn in, and the middle of the horizontal lines of rivets on the bodyside should pretty well be inline. Something to bear in mind when I cut away the cast windows and replace with the RT etches.

 

4) The top of the tender front cover, and the top of the cab roof should match for height.

 

5) The top of the tender sides should sit a little below the line where the roof cladding and sides meet on the loco. I still need to adjust this on the tender, and will remove 1 - 1.5mm off the top of the sides. As shown below the actual tender top and coal space is just pushed into place.

 

6) The bottom of the cabsides and tender body should align.

 

7) The bottom of the body sides should cover a small proportion of the top of the driving wheels.

 

The entry point for the pistons into the cylinders is a smidge higher than the driving wheel centres. This still needs to be corrected, and will then enable the slide bars to tilt very slightly downwards to the rear.

 

You can judge how this is going from the two pictures below. I have some K's MN wheels that I've tapped for Romford crankpins, however as these are push fit they'll only go on after painting, and I've been using the 24mm standard Romfords for construction purposes.

 

When I'm comfortable with the basic shape and proportions I'll move onto adding all the detail.

 

And yes, it would have been a lot easier to buy one from Hornby!

 

John.

 

 

IMG_1225 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1226 copyRMweb.jpg

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Yes John but never the same feeling as building one yourself. Look forward to seeing it take shape . What motor and gears do you intend using? The blue P2 is an interesting project by the way. I have to confess though Brunswick green is my preferred BR express livery even on ex LMS....the maroon big lizzies and Princess Royals being the only exception . I might be a tad biased though. Best wishes Brian

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14 hours ago, 46256 said:

Yes John but never the same feeling as building one yourself. Look forward to seeing it take shape . What motor and gears do you intend using? The blue P2 is an interesting project by the way. I have to confess though Brunswick green is my preferred BR express livery even on ex LMS....the maroon big lizzies and Princess Royals being the only exception . I might be a tad biased though. Best wishes Brian

Brian, many thanks for the comment.

 

In my little box of motors I have a 1628, I believe from Mashima, which I'll add to a 40:1 box, might use a Branchlines one I have in stock. One of the great benefits of building your own I think is that it makes you research and get to know the subject. So it is here, I knew that the first few were experimental in terms of shape, but not about the different cabs, tenders and the features I've listed above. So a great learning curve!

 

Sounds like our views on livery are pretty similar. I can just about remember seeing something very big and red at Preston in the early '60's when I was a small boy, I think that must have been wonderful to see in its prime. Lined Brunswick is also lovely, and will eventually be used on the MN. The Steam blue I think is interesting as there are so few colour pictures of the scheme, due to cost and non - availability of the film at the time when the country was still broke and in the throes of general rationing. So our models are one way of trying to visualise how it might have seemed. Richard B. (30368) has a picture of a Crownline/ PDK MN that he finished in Blue on his thread, and if I ever do another one I might give it a whirl!

 

John.

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Thanks John, liveries probably one of the most ...debated topics...

 

Motors and gearboxes...with the current absence of high level have been trying to find one for the RB Patriot. I have just ordered a motor from taff vale models for a comet 38/1 gearbox. It needs to be skewed to match the screw fitting holes..

 

Have tried a canon 16/20... not to my satisfaction I’m afraid..

 

Hope you don’t mind John. A bit of an update might be doing it a disservice..the canon that is. I had put it into one of my early chassis. If I’m honest whilst no real binds etc on rods..still not one of my best. The canon fitted into the patriot frames . Middle driving wheels and axle in place..ok outer wheels and rods yet to be added but it seems to be a lot more..powerful. The problem as ever, I will not know, until at running chassis stage, and trying to pull a test train. 

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22 hours ago, 46256 said:

Thanks John, liveries probably one of the most ...debated topics...

 

Motors and gearboxes...with the current absence of high level have been trying to find one for the RB Patriot. I have just ordered a motor from taff vale models for a comet 38/1 gearbox. It needs to be skewed to match the screw fitting holes..

 

Have tried a canon 16/20... not to my satisfaction I’m afraid..

 

Hope you don’t mind John. A bit of an update might be doing it a disservice..the canon that is. I had put it into one of my early chassis. If I’m honest whilst no real binds etc on rods..still not one of my best. The canon fitted into the patriot frames . Middle driving wheels and axle in place..ok outer wheels and rods yet to be added but it seems to be a lot more..powerful. The problem as ever, I will not know, until at running chassis stage, and trying to pull a test train. 

Brian, thanks for the update.

 

It's always interesting to have experience of motors shared, especially now that the Mashima range are not available - these seemed to de the default option for many. As you say, the only way you'll really know if you're happy is at the running stage.

 

My 1628 is a Mashima, bought years ago I'm sure, and the original style MN is one loco with enough space to put it to use. I did a bit more on the MN yesterday, and when I've some reasonable progress to show will do an update.

 

Best wishes,

 

John.

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I've been making some very slow progress with the MN in the last couple of days, however here is something now ready for the paint shop.

 

Isinglass 12 wheel Kitchen Car, LNER conversion from NER Dia. 58.

 

Anyone familiar with the "Coulsdon Works" thread willl know this is the first vehicle featured, made in Andy's case from seriously butchered Kirk Sides. It is an impressive vehicle, and when I noticed the original pre. conversion in the Isinglass catalogue, I ordered one and asked Andy Edgson, the proprietor, if he would supply me with the drawing for the conversion to allow me to try my own butchery. Fortunately he kindly offered to do the CAD work for the conversion, and in due time the kit appeared. See the first photo below.

 

The 3D prints are well done, and any "layering" is virtually invisible. I did wash the parts in warm water and Cif before started, as recommended, and again at one or two points in construction, which removed any feel of "greasiness". I used Xuron side cutters as for track to cut parts where needed, tidying with a metal nail file from Boots. Don't use a knife as it is likely to break the 3D print, which is I think some kind of resin.

 

Since I did the Sleeper above, Andy has changed the positioning ledges inside the ends, but I found these still needed a bit of fettling to get everything true. As before, you really need to attach the two sides and ends to the base. Having checked the fit of the four corners, I used Araldite Rapid to get the basic box, with the roof to be fastened on after painting and glazing.

 

There was a question as to whether the "turn in" on the sides and ends was a bit underdone in the printings, and I did adjust the mounting ledges a tad on the ends to make this a bit more pronounced.

 

It was worth checking the marks on the printed sides for the door handles and various handrails, on the recessed doors these are fitted on the corner of the bodyside turn in and are shorter than usual LNER ones. I drilled small holes for all these prior to glueing the sides together, and if needed these can be opened out with a taper broach after painting.

 

The underframe trussing is a bit unusual, being angle iron with the angle facing outwards, and this I made from Plastruct section. The kit comes with two nicely moulded tanks for the gas, unfortunately these didn't quite fit after I'd done the trussing so I made two from plastic tube. I did however use one of these on the other side of the coach, it is the pink/ orange colour one. The vehicles appear to have had four vacuum brake cylinders, and these are also supplied with the kit, although you'll need some "V" hangers as well, I used the Comet ones.

 

The bogies come with the kit and are nicely printed, with recesses for brass bearings.

 

On the roof I made the four rectangular vents from plasticard after looking at photos and sizing. The small vents are MJT standard ones, and the filler pipes are brass bent to fit secured by handrail knobs. The knobs in the coach sides are not yet glued, as the whole pipe attaches to the roof which will be kept separate for painting. I notice that I still need to do the alarm apparatus and also an extra vent which Andy (Coulsdon Works) concluded was circular and between two of the rectangular ones.

 

There is a good picture on Steve Banks site of one of the vehicles in Carmine and Cream, and I shall go for this scheme when the airbrush next comes out. I have some other Kirk and Mailcoach coaches that are well advanced, and I'll aim to paint the lot as a batch in due course.

 

John.

 

 

IMG_1140 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1222 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1220 copyRMweb.jpg

Edited by John Tomlinson
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On 02/05/2021 at 17:46, John Tomlinson said:

I haven't decided on a name for the loco yet. I'm tempted by "William Wallace" Scottish revolutionary from the 13th century, then again I could assume clairvoyance by the LNER Board and go for "Nicola Sturgeon". Perhaps not.

 

Hi John,

 

What a great idea! I rather like the look of both types of P2 cladding but doing one in BR blue looks right to me. As to a name the former seems appropriate but in her way, as we shall see I suspect, Nicola will be equally revolutionary! So you will have to do two!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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1 hour ago, John Tomlinson said:

I've been making some very slow progress with the MN in the last couple of days, however here is something now ready for the paint shop.

 

Isinglass 12 wheel Kitchen Car, LNER conversion from NER Dia. 58.

 

Anyone familiar with the "Coulsdon Works" thread willl know this is the first vehicle featured, made in Andy's case from seriously butchered Kirk Sides. It is an impressive vehicle, and when I noticed the original pre. conversion in the Isinglass catalogue, I ordered one and asked Andy Edgson, the proprietor, if he would supply me with the drawing for the conversion to allow me to try my own butchery. Fortunately he kindly offered to do the CAD work for the conversion, and in due time the kit appeared. See the first photo below.

 

The 3D prints are well done, and any "layering" is virtually invisible. I did wash the parts in warm water and Cif before started, as recommended, and again at one or two points in construction, which removed any feel of "greasiness". I used Xuron side cutters as for track to cut parts where needed, tidying with a metal nail file from Boots. Don't use a knife as it is likely to break the 3D print, which is I think some kind of resin.

 

Since I did the Sleeper above, Andy has changed the positioning ledges inside the ends, but I found these still needed a bit of fettling to get everything true. As before, you really need to attach the two sides and ends to the base. Having checked the fit of the four corners, I used Araldite Rapid to get the basic box, with the roof to be fastened on after painting and glazing.

 

There was a question as to whether the "turn in" on the sides and ends was a bit underdone in the printings, and I did adjust the mounting ledges a tad on the ends to make this a bit more pronounced.

 

It was worth checking the marks on the printed sides for the door handles and various handrails, on the recessed doors these are fitted on the corner of the bodyside turn in and are shorter than usual LNER ones. I drilled small holes for all these prior to glueing the sides together, and if needed these can be opened out with a taper broach after painting.

 

The underframe trussing is a bit unusual, being angle iron with the angle facing outwards, and this I made from Plastruct section. The kit comes with two nicely moulded tanks for the gas, unfortunately these didn't quite fit after I'd done the trussing so I made two from plastic tube. I did however use one of these on the other side of the coach, it is the pink/ orange colour one. The vehicles appear to have had four vacuum brake cylinders, and these are also supplied with the kit, although you'll need some "V" hangers as well, I used the Comet ones.

 

The bogies come with the kit and are nicely printed, with recesses for brass bearings.

 

On the roof I made the four rectangular vents from plasticard after looking at photos and sizing. The small vents are MJT standard ones, and the filler pipes are brass bent to fit secured by handrail knobs. The knobs in the coach sides are not yet glued, as the whole pipe attaches to the roof which will be kept separate for painting. I notice that I still need to do the alarm apparatus and also an extra vent which Andy (Coulsdon Works) concluded was circular and between two of the rectangular ones.

 

There is a good picture on Steve Banks site of one of the vehicles in Carmine and Cream, and I shall go for this scheme when the airbrush next comes out. I have some other Kirk and Mailcoach coaches that are well advanced, and I'll aim to paint the lot as a batch in due course.

 

 

IMG_1140 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1222 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1220 copyRMweb.jpg

 

John.

 

 

Looks like a stunning build. I've been very tempted by some of the 3d prints for s while.

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2 minutes ago, davidw said:

Looks like a stunning build. I've been very tempted by some of the 3d prints for s while.

David, thanks for the comment.

 

I would say to anyone reading this that I don't think these are for the beginner, as they do need a bit of thought and fettling, plus an awareness of getting everything true at each stage.

 

In your case, given the posts you've made over the years, I can't think there'd be any problems at all.

 

He does have quite a wide catalogue!

 

John.

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On 04/05/2021 at 17:43, John Tomlinson said:

This is very much a work in progress, and having got to the stage of a free rolling chassis under a basic bodyshell and tender, I'm taking a long, hard look at the proportions and relative positions of features, as I'll explain below.

 

Hi again John,

 

I have built a couple of Millholme MNs and they do go together well and, as you would expect, have tremendous pulling power. My first had a biggish Mashima with a two stage Branchlines gearbox the second had a Highlevel Coreless motor and two stage gearbox. They are both good set ups but the High Level is very smooth and pulls very, very well. Chris at High Level is still out of action though.

 

 

MN first one.

522842237_IMG_4582(2).JPG.0195202f0c7ed7d176065337f5824e5c.JPG

 

MN second one

1945848354_005(2).JPG.c2b03135b374ee9c970e2f73a57b4638.JPG

MN third one - PDK one in blue to keep the P2 company!

96114581_IMG_4738(4).JPG.5a07c4aed3247559a4a6e193b1526eec.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

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1 minute ago, 30368 said:

 

Hi again John,

 

I have built a couple of Millholme MNs and they do go together well and, as you would expect, have tremendous pulling power. My first had a biggish Mashima with a two stage Branchlines gearbox the second had a Highlevel Coreless motor and two stage gearbox. They are both good set ups but the High Level is very smooth and pulls very, very well. Chris at High Level is still out of action though.

 

 

MN first one.

522842237_IMG_4582(2).JPG.0195202f0c7ed7d176065337f5824e5c.JPG

 

MN second one

1945848354_005(2).JPG.c2b03135b374ee9c970e2f73a57b4638.JPG

MN third one - PDK one in blue to keep the P2 company!

96114581_IMG_4738(4).JPG.5a07c4aed3247559a4a6e193b1526eec.JPG

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

Thanks Richard.

 

In fact your thread must have got quite warm of late as I've constantly been referring back to look at things, particularly on the third most recent build!

 

When I grow up, I might have a go at one of the PDK series one versions, as here with 35009, and do it in Blue, there really is some style in those early cabs.

 

John.

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1 hour ago, John Tomlinson said:

I've been making some very slow progress with the MN in the last couple of days, however here is something now ready for the paint shop.

 

Isinglass 12 wheel Kitchen Car, LNER conversion from NER Dia. 58.

 

Anyone familiar with the "Coulsdon Works" thread willl know this is the first vehicle featured, made in Andy's case from seriously butchered Kirk Sides. It is an impressive vehicle, and when I noticed the original pre. conversion in the Isinglass catalogue, I ordered one and asked Andy Edgson, the proprietor, if he would supply me with the drawing for the conversion to allow me to try my own butchery. Fortunately he kindly offered to do the CAD work for the conversion, and in due time the kit appeared. See the first photo below.

 

The 3D prints are well done, and any "layering" is virtually invisible. I did wash the parts in warm water and Cif before started, as recommended, and again at one or two points in construction, which removed any feel of "greasiness". I used Xuron side cutters as for track to cut parts where needed, tidying with a metal nail file from Boots. Don't use a knife as it is likely to break the 3D print, which is I think some kind of resin.

 

Since I did the Sleeper above, Andy has changed the positioning ledges inside the ends, but I found these still needed a bit of fettling to get everything true. As before, you really need to attach the two sides and ends to the base. Having checked the fit of the four corners, I used Araldite Rapid to get the basic box, with the roof to be fastened on after painting and glazing.

 

There was a question as to whether the "turn in" on the sides and ends was a bit underdone in the printings, and I did adjust the mounting ledges a tad on the ends to make this a bit more pronounced.

 

It was worth checking the marks on the printed sides for the door handles and various handrails, on the recessed doors these are fitted on the corner of the bodyside turn in and are shorter than usual LNER ones. I drilled small holes for all these prior to glueing the sides together, and if needed these can be opened out with a taper broach after painting.

 

The underframe trussing is a bit unusual, being angle iron with the angle facing outwards, and this I made from Plastruct section. The kit comes with two nicely moulded tanks for the gas, unfortunately these didn't quite fit after I'd done the trussing so I made two from plastic tube. I did however use one of these on the other side of the coach, it is the pink/ orange colour one. The vehicles appear to have had four vacuum brake cylinders, and these are also supplied with the kit, although you'll need some "V" hangers as well, I used the Comet ones.

 

The bogies come with the kit and are nicely printed, with recesses for brass bearings.

 

On the roof I made the four rectangular vents from plasticard after looking at photos and sizing. The small vents are MJT standard ones, and the filler pipes are brass bent to fit secured by handrail knobs. The knobs in the coach sides are not yet glued, as the whole pipe attaches to the roof which will be kept separate for painting. I notice that I still need to do the alarm apparatus and also an extra vent which Andy (Coulsdon Works) concluded was circular and between two of the rectangular ones.

 

There is a good picture on Steve Banks site of one of the vehicles in Carmine and Cream, and I shall go for this scheme when the airbrush next comes out. I have some other Kirk and Mailcoach coaches that are well advanced, and I'll aim to paint the lot as a batch in due course.

 

 

IMG_1140 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1222 copyRMweb.jpg

 

 

IMG_1220 copyRMweb.jpg

 

John.

 

 

 

That looks like a very nice build. I think I’ll have to have a go at one of the Isinglass kits and see how I get on. 

My main concern previously was the smoothness, or otherwise, of the sides. From what you say it seems that this is not an issue now.

 

Jon

 

PS I like the MN as well.....

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19 minutes ago, Jon4470 said:

 

That looks like a very nice build. I think I’ll have to have a go at one of the Isinglass kits and see how I get on. 

My main concern previously was the smoothness, or otherwise, of the sides. From what you say it seems that this is not an issue now.

 

Jon

 

PS I like the MN as well.....

Thanks Jon.

 

On both Isinglass coach kits above, it has been necessary to go outside in very bright sunshine in order to see any trace of layering in the sides of the kit as supplied.

 

In both cases I've given the big panels a gentle rub with fine wet and dry used wet, wrapped round a piece of small brass section, just to be sure. This also helps dispel the slight greasiness to touch of the initial print.

 

There is no trace of layering at all on the Sleeper above that has been painted and finished.

 

John.

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