Quality tools for beginner

[CCarmichael]

Hi,

Having only just started the modelling aspects of this hobby, having been a collector for many years, I was looking for some recommendations for what tools that I should be possibly purchasing.

 

The here tools that I have having the most problems in working out what to get due to the high variety:

 

• A decent soldering iron that doesn’t take up to much space and stand that if possible can hold additional things like brass wool
• A high quality set of precision screwdrivers (preferably magnetic) mainly for locomotive repair/servicing 
• A high quality set of set of files suitable for detailed work
• A multimeter

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

[Ian Simpson]

 I buy most of my tools from Squires Tools of Bognor, and I've always been pleased with both the range and the quality of tools that they stock. Of course other suppliers are available; its just that Squires have the most extensive range I've seen. (Okay, I know you' said you find the variety confusing! But all of their stuff seems to be robust and well-made.)

Edited April 6, 2021 by Ian Simpson

[gordon s]

You won’t go wrong with Wiha screwdrivers. Not the cheapest, but quality tools are never cheap but will outlast the cheap versions.

 

The other ones I use are Wera and this is their set of 12.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wera-kraftform-micro-mixed-precision-screwdriver-set-12-pieces/930fp

 

[Paul H Vigor]

I look at my tools gathered over five decades of railway modelling. They are quite a motley bunch, I must say!   

[Paul H Vigor]

50 minutes ago, Paul H Vigor said:

I look at my tools gathered over five decades of railway modelling. They are quite a motley bunch, I must say!   

Case in point: I have at least five different modelling knife handles - a consequence of shopping for replacement blades and not finding the right ones! 

[Ian Morgan]

You will not go wrong with Vallorbe miniature files. A single file will cost what you might pay for a full set of files on most exhibition trader stands.

 

For a soldering iron, you really must have a temperature controlled iron, probably 40W minimum. I have a Hakko FX-888D which I am very happy with.

 

Almost any cheap multimeter will suffice, provided you know how to use it. An audible continuity function can be handy.

 

 

 

[tomparryharry]

Always try to purchase the best requirement for any specific job.  Not, the best quality, but the best requirement.  Some tools are classed as 'consumable' where it's a one-time use. Naturally,  Q&B tools fall into the 'consumable' variety, or very nearly so. 

 

If you're in a family house, put a lock on your tools. It's not nasty, per se, but when your wife is using Xuron cutters for toenails, you tend to get a bit protective.... Buy another set for 'common user'.  The biggest fault with any screwdriver is trying to use a perfectly good 'driver, in the wrong place you want to use. Using a 1.0mm screwdriver in a 3mm situation will lead to 'tears before bedtime'  Common sense, such as wrapping up files after use, will help keep them in trim. 

 

A quality vernier is always a good idea. Some of the digital ones are quite good nowadays; up to NAMAS standard. I agree about the multimeter.  

 

A lot of modellers on here have likely already encountered some of your modelling questions on here, so don't be afraid to ask.  We're a pretty friendly bunch, and only a few bite..... 

 

Now I've posted this, there will be a dozen or more responses, and the more the merrier. 

 

Have fun!

[simontaylor484]

Wera screwdrivers i definatley reccomended 

 

Swann morton scalpels and blades

[ColinK]

I strongly agree with locking them away.  I got home one day to find one if my screwdrivers had been used to open a tin of paint then used to stir it. It was bent and dirty.

[Kris]

I would recommend getting an Antex soldering iron. Not the most expensive but they work. The size you need will depend on what you want to do with it. Bigger size for bigger scales. 

[brossard]

My iron is a Weller 25W.  It has been very good.  I've even built 7mm kits with it.  I am now using brass wool to keep the tip nice and shiny.  I also have a 50W Weller variable temp system.

 

When you say you want to get involved in modelling aspects, does that mean kits?

 

A set of diamond files will be useful.

 

My knife of choice if a big fat Olfa, hefty enough and break off blades.

 

If you plan to build kits then one or more pin vices will come in handy.  In 4mm, you will use 0.020" and 0.032" bits most often - I do.  Buy a lot, the 0.020" in particular don't last long.

 

I have acquired a lot of tools over the years but tend to use just a handful on a day to day basis.  Beware gadgety tools.

 

John

[Guy Rixon]

Soldering iron: if budget is tight, get an Antex XS25, which is a temperature-limited (not "controlled") 25W iron, with the Antex stand. Very good for the price.

 

But I think you'll do much better with a basic soldering-station, i.e. an iron of about 50W rating, with a dial to set the nominal temperature. A few years back, I upgraded from an XS25 to a cheapo soldering station from Maplins, about £40 at the prices the day. My soldering results immediately improved a lot. Further, I was then able to solder whitemetal without disasters. If you can afford a station of better quality with about 75W power, then that would be worth it.

 

Files: +1 for Vallorbe, which you will probably have to get from a jewellers' supplier, but you don't have to got that far up the quality ladder. The decent files that Squires sell (can't remember the make) do very well. The one I use most is about 8" by 1" broad by 1/8" thick, very fine cut and the thin edges are safe edges. Coarser cut files aren't much use for brass work, although I sometime use one for brutalising castings.

 

 I don't see the point in diamond "files" in soft-metal work; maybe they're useful for ceramics or for fitting hardened steel. Actual steel files and abrasive papers do the job for me. The diamond files I've seen on stands are too uneven in their surface to use easily.

 

Screwdrivers: do you really need posh ones for doctoring locos? I've got a set I paid (IIRC) £3.50 for about 8 years ago and they do find for screws down to 12 BA. I can see that you might need best quality for the tiniest screws in watchmaking, but most model mechanisms have bigger fasteners.

[Torper]

A lot of people are suggesting top-of-the-range expensive stuff.  It isn't really neccessary and I go along with almost everything Guy says above.  I've got an expensive Hakko soldering station, and it is indeed very good, but my old and considerably cheaper Aoyue soldering station did the job just as well, albeit a bit more slowly.  As Guy says, just make sure you get a powerful iron, not less than 35 watts and more if possible.  As for files, I've got lots and lots of cheap ones from Squires and when one gets clogged up (and they do), I throw it away.  I think a Vallorbe would be OTT, especially as I know I'd absentmindedly start using it on some solder or whitemetal or something else I shouldn't.  Like Guy, I've found the surfaces of diamond files a bit rough for delicate work.   You'll need some side-cutters and some pliers; again, Squires ones do the job - I've got some cheap ones and some Xuron ones and while they're good I'm not sure that the Xurons are all that much better than the cheapos - they all go blunt when you inadvertantly try to cut some hard wire.  In addition, I would recommend a set of miniature cutting broaches - not mentioned by you in your list of wants, but I find them incredibly useful.

 

Of course, much depends on what you want to use the tools for.  You do however say you're a beginner and I'd try out the basics and see just what you need and how much you're going to use them before splashing out on the more expensive stuff.

 

DT

[Guy Rixon]

Knives: I depend on three kinds.

• Collet knife with pointy blade for general work.
• Collet knife with chisel blade for cutting tabs on etches, and also for cleaning surfaces, e.g. of stray solder.
• Scalpel with 11P blade (the extra-pointy kind) for fine work, particularly when cutting card, paper and transfers.

The two collet knives get used in stone-axe mode, so it's not worth getting best-quality blades. I get cheap blades off Amazon and change them often.

 

Small pliers: you can pay a lot for posh, box-jointed pliers, but I've been using mid-priced, lap-jointed pliers for ever and have no problems. When you buy them, check that they are accurately ground and the jaws grip evenly (try will it grip a bank note evenly), and that there is not excessive play in the joint; nothing else much matters. I have a perfectly good set of tiny pliers that cost £1.50 from a thrift store.

 

Small snips or side cutters: there seem to be three price-bands: posh, such as Xuron; mid-priced, around £12, such as CK; and worthless trash. I get the CK ones and they do very well. If you need to cut hard wire and such, Stanley sell a set of big snips rated to cut aircraft control-cable, and these I like as they cut neatly. 

 

Other things:

• glass-fibre scratch brushes; get lots of refills if you build etched kits!
• set of pin chucks and range of small drill-bits; buy good quality;
• small engineer's square and rules in 6" and 12" sizes;
• callipers for measuring, either vernier, dial or digital;
• something to scribe and something to centre-pop;
• etc. (and it's a lot of etc.)

Quality in drill bits is a sore point recently, as there is a huge range of quality, with most concentrated in the "worse than worthless" band. If you want guaranteed good bits for drilling metal, buy them from Eileen's and live with the cost. There are suppliers on-line that will sell you packs of 10 or so bits for the price of one from Eileen's and sometimes this is great but sometimes they are unbelievably bad. From one outlet, I had two packs of decent bits; one where no cutting edge had been ground on; one made of such bad metal that I could bend the bits between my fingers and they stayed bent; and one with the point ground 50% off-centre. It's not really worth the gamble. If you do end up with partly-sharpened drills, they may be OK for drilling polystyrene.

[Steamport Southport]

Antex soldering irons.

 

Look at Hattons. They've been having good deals on them recently with the stand.

 

https://www.hattons.co.uk/stocklist/siteresults.aspx?searchfield=antex

 

 

 

Jason

[Torper]

1 hour ago, Steamport Southport said:

Antex soldering irons.  Look at Hattons. They've been having good deals on them recently with the stand.

https://www.hattons.co.uk/stocklist/siteresults.aspx?searchfield=antex

 

They've got two at that link, an 18w one and a 25w one.  I admit to a bit of bias as I don't seem to get on with Antex irons, but even if I did as a kitbuilder I'd want something with a bit more grunt than 25 watts.

 

DT

[Jeff Smith]

I think the OP probably needs to define what type of modelling is being envisaged.  The original list sounds good for loco and rolling stock maintenance but not kit construction or scenic work.

[Steamport Southport]

24 minutes ago, Torper said:

 

They've got two at that link, an 18w one and a 25w one.  I admit to a bit of bias as I don't seem to get on with Antex irons, but even if I did as a kitbuilder I'd want something with a bit more grunt than 25 watts.

 

DT

 

25 watt should easily be adequate for most 4mm etched brass kits and well hefty enough for any whitemetal kit. I personally have used one for years with a larger Weller (60 watt I think) for when I modelled in 7mm scale. That will solder anything. Anymore than that you are getting into model engineering territory rather than just soldering a bit of thin brass.

 

I can't get on with those temperature controlled things. YMMV.

 

But I have a feeling the OP was talking about starting out rather than building kits. Needs something to get started with. You can always upgrade as you improve and the Antex is a useful iron to have for things like electrics.

 

I certainly wouldn't be suggesting hundreds of pounds worth of tools for someone who is a beginner. That can be off putting to many. Get the basics and buy more as you go on.

 

 

Jason

[Mike Bellamy]

9 hours ago, Guy Rixon said:

Quality in drill bits is a sore point recently, as there is a huge range of quality, with most concentrated in the "worse than worthless" band. 

 

Over on the Gauge O Guild Forum, I have seen a number of recommendations for Drill Services at Horley.

 

https://www.drill-service.co.uk/

 

Also if looking for quality tools consider those supplied to the watch and jewellery trade by stockists such as Cooksons and Cousins

 

https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/

 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/department/tools-equipment

[Jol Wilkinson]

On 06/04/2021 at 15:34, CCarmichael said:

Hi,

Having only just started the modelling aspects of this hobby, having been a collector for many years, I was looking for some recommendations for what tools that I should be possibly purchasing.

 

The here tools that I have having the most problems in working out what to get due to the high variety:

 

• A decent soldering iron that doesn’t take up to much space and stand that if possible can hold additional things like brass wool
• A high quality set of precision screwdrivers (preferably magnetic) mainly for locomotive repair/servicing 
• A high quality set of set of files suitable for detailed work
• A multimeter

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

It would help if you qualify what type of modelling you have in mind initially.

 

I could detail those tools I have which I consider invaluable for building and painting etched kits, handbuilt track, etc. in 4mm P4 but that may not coincide with what you are planning to do.

 

In the absence of an understanding of what you want to model, all I would suggest is to buy few tools but good quality. For example I have about 18 - 20 small files bought over the years but only really use about 6 or 7, which are the Vallorbe brand.

[Jeff Smith]

If it is of any help I can list the tools that tend to remain on my bench close to hand (as against the many others for occasional use in racks).  I am part way through a white metal loco kit and have just finished some Ratio 4 wheel coaches (styrene).

 

Weller variable temp soldering station, solder for white metal and brass, fluxes, de-solder braided strip, tip cleaner.

Pliers - Xuron needle point and flat (plain, not serrated), flush cut side cutters (not the overlapping type).

Files - needle flat, round, square and half round.  Course half round.  Emery boards.

Screwdrivers, flat for chassis screws and very small for worm grub screws.

Fibreglass brush.

Tweezers - fine point straight and angled.

Digital vernier caliper, inches and mm.

Superglue with fine tip applicator, impact adhesive.

3" x 4" flat square with inches and mm.

 #1 Xacto knife with straight blades.

Scriber.

Matt black acrylic paint (Testors) with stirrers and selection of brushes - for painting during assembly.

Small palm drill and small drill bits.

Green cutting matt.

Magnifying desk lamp.

 

Regarding tool quality, steer clear of cheap small drill bits, these are often not the correct size with poorly ground points.  It's a good idea to keep different files for white metal and brass.

[cypherman]

Hi all,

My soldering iron is 50 years old and still works perfectly. I have 2 newer ones but I always seem to use my older one. A decent set of craft knives and a good set of modelling chisels should be added. A steel rule and a set of scribers would also not go amiss. I have also bought a Guitar Bass Steel Tuner Knob Jack Switch Spanner Wrench Pins Puller Remover. Quite a mouthful I know. But it works. Absolutely brilliant at removing stuck wheels off axels. A decent set of small wire brushes.

I disagree on the fibreglass pen. All it did for me was to shed shards of fibreglass.

Plus I have found that liquid chrome pens are very useful if you just want to touch up handrails. much easier than trying to use paint. A set of 1ml/2ml and 4ml only costs £20.00

They are my addons to the list

Edited April 9, 2021 by cypherman

[Jeff Smith]

Yes fibreglass brushes are very prone to shedding fine filaments, I always brush of my cutting mat after use with a small dustpan and brush, and then wash my hands in hot water.

 

However for cleaning up brass and white metal, including solder, they are invaluable.

[ColinK]

My workbench has been a bit messy the last few days, mainly with the mess left after filing.  I don’t know what gave me the idea, but I used one of those sticky rollers people use to remove hair etc from clothes, it picked up the filings nicely.

[Jeff Smith]

18 hours ago, Jeff Smith said:

If it is of any help I can list the tools that tend to remain on my bench close to hand (as against the many others for occasional use in racks).  I am part way through a white metal loco kit and have just finished some Ratio 4 wheel coaches (styrene).

 

Weller variable temp soldering station, solder for white metal and brass, fluxes, de-solder braided strip, tip cleaner.

Pliers - Xuron needle point and flat (plain, not serrated), flush cut side cutters (not the overlapping type).

Files - needle flat, round, square and half round.  Course half round.  Emery boards.

Screwdrivers, flat for chassis screws and very small for worm grub screws.

Fibreglass brush.

Tweezers - fine point straight and angled.

Digital vernier caliper, inches and mm.

Superglue with fine tip applicator, impact adhesive.

3" x 4" flat square with inches and mm.

 #1 Xacto knife with straight blades.

Scriber.

Matt black acrylic paint (Testors) with stirrers and selection of brushes - for painting during assembly.

Small palm drill and small drill bits.

Green cutting matt.

Magnifying desk lamp.

 

Regarding tool quality, steer clear of cheap small drill bits, these are often not the correct size with poorly ground points.  It's a good idea to keep different files for white metal and brass.

Of course I did forget my vice, all position 2" jaws with removable soft jaws.